Prius (2010-12) :: RPMs Surging Up And Down At 50 Mph?
Jan 7, 2015
About a week ago I noticed my 2012 II felt more noticeable when the electric motor would assist. I thought it was temperature related as it got really cold here in MO. But tonight on my way home I had the cruise set at 50mph and I had the same issue. This time I changed the monitor screen to see when the electric motor was kicking in. However the electric motor was not working and it felt like the RPMs were surging up and down radically and for no reason. My car is still under warranty but I can not make it do it on command so I fear the dealership will not find it.
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 1994 dodge ram 2 wheel drive with a 318. Idles fine but when put under a load it starts surging and bucking at about 1500 rpms. Idles at 1500 no problem only under a load...
View 4 Replies
Got a problem with my R. 134k miles. About 4 months ago I had similar problems and was told it was a bad MAF. Of course wasn't covered by my warranty, so I decided to just give it a good cleaning and car ran fine up till now. Just started doing the same thing today. Doesn't want to idle, taking off is really hesitant then it just goes. Trans seems like it is struggling to find the correct gear sometimes when coming to a stop or taking off, sometimes jerks hard, maybe throttle position sensor, or idle control? Once you are moving it drives fine, only very low speeds and idling are the problem. Trying to avoid going to the dealership. What this could be? MAF need cleaned again or just replaced?
View 4 Replies
My 2001 BMW 325Ci has an occasional "surging" idle problem. When coming to a stop or at idle, the engine will rev between 500 and 1000 rpm's. Sometimes it will correct the problem and idle normally, or keeps surging until it eventually stalls. When restarted it works fine. Tried fuel injector treatment, fuel stabilizer treatment, and replaced thermostat. Still surges about 50% of the time. Had it to a dealer, and computer says its running fine.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2007 Chev Colorado PU (automatic) and whenever I use the brake to come to a stop my rpms surge from 500 to 1000 - both visually on the tach and you can feel it also. When the truck is stoped it returns to noral (750). accelerates fine - shifts fine - fuel economy is a bit down.
View 2 Replies
Ok so a little back story, I have CEL codes 17748 & 17755 which basically tell me that I have a stretched timing chain. That being said, others say they have the same codes and their car runs like a champ and makes full power. Not sure the truth to that but whatever. Regardless, I don't know how a stretched chain would cause a sudden surge of power at certain rpm, but I do not know the ins and outs of this engine and ECU.
So, for some reason my car feels fine when driving around at low rpms, but when I take it above 3000 rpm or so with mild throttle, it feels a little weak. Now if I am giving it moderate throttle, once I hit the 3000 rpm range, all of the sudden I can hear my intake get louder and there is a sudden surge of power. Furthermore, it feels to me like as the rpms get higher, like over 4500-5000 range, the car feels pretty weak. I am not sure how the car should feel though because this problem has been like this since I bought it. I am pretty sure it's not making full power though.
I can see how stretched chains could lead to being out of timing which could mean low power up top, even though I don't know why the variable cam gears couldn't make up for this.. but what's up with this power surge thing?
View 8 Replies
2004 Santa Fe .... 2.7 6 Cyl 4WD 150k miles
Recently I started experiencing RPMs surging upon startup and driving before my engine warms up. The problem has gotten worse to where I push on the accelerator the RPMs jump to 2700 and the transmission feels like it disengages. My initial thought was the tranny was going bad and slipping. I checked the fluid level in the T and found it was maybe a half Qt. low. I topped it off, but this had no impact on the problem. On a side note, I am able to use the manual shifting feature on the "His and Hers" Shifter and drive the vehicle without any issue. Transmission works fine in manual. The surging RPMs which only occur in Automatic mode, triggered the CEL and I got a code of P0123 which is high side voltage on the Throttle Position Sensor. I replaced the gray TPS with a new black one.
Upon startup the RPMS jumped to 3000 just sitting in Park. I disassembled and reinstalled figuring I had something bound in the throttle. After reassembly the idle went up to 2200, still no good! I reinstalled the original gray TPS and the RPMs, upon starting, RPMs were 1500 with the old sensor...still too high. I did reset the ECU twice during the process of putting in the new sensor and reinstalling the old sensor. Right now I found that when I disconnect the TPS electrical connector, the engine runs normal. It starts right up with the TPS totally disconnected and idles at 750 RPMs! It will not shift to 2nd gear though, when I try to drive it in Automatic Mode. I can however drive in Manual Mode and drive normal and shift right through the gears. Who needs automatic mode right?!!!
View 4 Replies
The car is an '05 elantra, 97,000 miles, auto., car is new to me. First time on the freeway today, 30 miles @75-85 mph, at the end of the off ramp I could feel it surging, shift to neutral rpm's went to 1500, hoss the gas and back to normal. On the return trip off ramp, went to neutral, jab the gas, everything OK. I'm going to clean the throttle blade, check things, etc.
View 3 Replies
My '03 7.3 is "surging" on idle. When warmed up, and idling, the RPMs will drop by 300 or 400 for a few seconds and then will correct and shoot back up. It cycles like this (every 5 seconds-ish) continually . I just put in a new IDM and checked the UVCH - is there a separate idle control mechanism that I need to have a look at? (2003, 7.3, 214K, stock).
View 14 Replies
My girlfriend has a 2008 with around 120k miles on it. It's been pretty flawless but yesterday the RPMs started surging while idle and made kind of a high pitch humming noise when accelerating.
Today on her way to work she said the radio was going in and out, the battery light lit up and then the rest of the dash lights came on, and the speedometer stopped working.
What could be the problem? Could it just be the battery?
View 12 Replies
Mechanics say they don’t know what wrong… I had some transmission work done on my truck – mostly an leak and replacing the harness – and ever since then after it rains or if we have a heavy dew my truck does the following:
Driving from O to 49 miles an hour truck is fine, as soon as I hit 50 the truck starts surging and you can see the tachometer jumping from 2000 RPM to 2500 RPMs. I drive around 17 miles to work where my truck will sit for seven hours. On the way home the truck is fine. I find this to be more of a problem when the truck has sat for a day or two over the weekend without driving it. Sometimes the “check engine” light will come on, sometimes not.
I have taken it to two different places and neither one says they can find anything wrong with the truck. I have driven this truck for over 11 years and know it very well. There is something wrong, but what? 1993 Chevy Silverado 3500 Diesel....
View 10 Replies
I have a 06 f350 with 5.4 140k miles. Recently it has been shaking bad on idle but only in gear and it's hard to start when cold. The exhaust is moist at all times and the fluids never leak. When you floor it it hesitates feels like it's overly rich but if you let off a little it stars to pull again. Also while cruising at 1500-1700 rpms in any gear it will surge and skip. Only time it will miss and the CEL comes on is over 4000 rpms for a random misfire. Just put new coils in new fuel pump and filter. There has always been a cat code but it never effected the drivability. Could it be injectors?
View 3 Replies
Just hooked up my SGII to my new Prius, and it won't stay on. It seems that every time the ICE turns off and the RPM's go to zero, it thinks I'm parking and it powers down after the 10 seconds or so. I know this is what it's doing because if the ICE stays on, the SGII stays on just like it used to in my RAV4.
View 6 Replies
Had a first-time issue with my car today. Background, 2010 II bought in June, just short of 15K miles, never had any kind of mechanical issue.
While en route to work this morning, I was about halfway into my 15 minute drive to work, when I noticed my engine was idling very high, I would guess 2500 rpms. It started doing it while I was driving around 35 MPH, then continued doing it while I stopped at a traffic light, and continued when I continued driving to a speed around 50 MPH. The high idle while stopped was not transferred to the wheels, so it was not a safety issue as it would be in other cars.
When I got back up to 50, curious to try something, I hit the ECO mode button and the car returned to normal. I took ECO back off and the car was still fine. I had no further problems.
I would point out that this morning was about the coldest temp that the car has experienced. Outside temp ranged from 7 to 10 degrees.
View 14 Replies
I was driving today and had just gotten off the highway. I was going at no more than 10MPH when I heard some high pitched sound. At first I couldn't figure out what it was and thought maybe it was some outside noise. It quickly got louder over the span of the next few seconds and then I realized it was the engine. I had the pedal barely down so was definitely in electric mode.
I quickly glanced at my Scan Gauge and actually saw the RPMs go from 1200's up to 3400 in no more than 10 seconds. I have never had the car rev this high, probably just 2400s when I'm on the highway going 70's. By this time I was getting very perplexed and worried, and had my foot completely off the gas pedal. I immediately pulled to the side of the road and parked (hit the P button). The car seemed to go into park mode fine and then over the next few seconds the RPMs went back down to 992, and I made it back to the house no problem.
View 18 Replies
I have a 2013 Elantra with 27,000 miles on it. No problems at all, except once in a while, it idles a bit rough/low.
The A/C never seemed to be SUPER cold, but it was OK. A few weeks ago, I timed it and it took 10 mins on a hot day to even feel comfortable.
So, we took it to our local mechanic. He said no leaks, but it was a bit low on refrigerant. Drive home and WARM air is blowing, plus at a signal, I surged forward, as though someone hit me from behind.
I immediately go back and he was baffled. He calls a few hours later and says it's fixed, something had come loose during the repair or something to that affect. I was stressed and not listening well (I know, bad)
That was about 10 days ago. The A/C has been fine, except for one brief time where it was a bit warm, no surging though.
This morning, it starting cycling warm air about every 3 minutes AND during the times of warm air, it was surging.
View 32 Replies
When Idling or at low speeds my engine has been surging. When idling it surges with no changes in rpm's but the car shakes and can bee seen and felt. When at low speeds I also get a surge but the rpms will jump up and down. If I drive with the A/C on it cuts the surging down significantly. I had a friend of mine read out the check engine light codes. The are P0010- CAM POS Actuator malfunction, P0011 Cam pos actuator over retarded, C0300 random misfire, C0700 transmission control malfunction. I looked some things up online and they were saying to replace some cam shaft sensors and etc.
View 1 Replies
So I just recently had to take my 2010 Golf TDI into the shop to replace the mechanics unit. Took them a while to get the unit installed but overall I was happy. The car was driving perfect for about 2-3 months. Then all of a sudden the transmission starting violently surging and dropping the clutch again. I thought the mech unit was going bad again in less than 5K miles. I couldn't get the car in the shop until about 3-4 days after and I did drive the car there because the surging was manageable. It did kick the car into safe mode when the dsg appeared to overheat. It turns out there was a leak from the gasket. They are fixing it now free of charge but it looks like they messed up.
The issue is now I am afraid of any damage that may have been caused to the mech/clutch form the fluid getting low. Should I be worried about this and if so what should I do? I would think the shop should be responsible for any damage done to the car.
View 1 Replies
We have owned our 07' since it was new and have performed regular maintenance per the owners manual. We are at 105,000 miles and I've noticed a subtle surging sensation when entering the highway with my foot flat on the accelerator.
Looking at the MFD, I see both the engine and motor supplying power continuously during the surging sensation. When this occurs, the batteries are never "low". They always show 5-8 bars of charge. I tuned the car with factory plugs, air filter and PCV valve, but that did not work. The sensation only seems to occur at wide open throttle and is undetectable at lower acceleration or at standard highway speeds. I'm happy to ignore the issue, but am curious what might be going on...
Just reading up on Optima Yellow Top batteries and issues for Prius owners. We installed one about two years ago. Doing some of the tests mentioned online, like engine in run position, but not running yields a battery voltage of 11.9. Out of spec, I think. Engine running = 14.1v.
View 7 Replies
So, I was just driving home from work in my 2005 Prius (~78k miles) when the engine started surging erratically and uncontrollably. I don't know if this is the cause, but I hit a bump right as I was hitting the gas and so I wasn't surprised when it revved up at first. But, then I backed off and it kept revving. Then I took my foot off the gas and it was still revving and accelerating so I had to start braking to keep going the same speed.
It kept erratically surging and then letting off as I basically kept braking at different levels to maintain speed or slow down when I could as we were coming to an intersection. The light turned red and I managed to get to a stop even though it was still revving, so I hit the P button and the engine calmed down. So, when traffic started again I slowly put it back in D and it surged again. We didn't move much before we had to stop again so I put it in P again. I noticed the battery icon was down to a few pink bars so I turned off the radio and air. Traffic started again and I put it in D and this time it seemed ok. I detected a faint smell that I think was probably from the brakes/tires being overheated, but it could've been something else maybe. It drove normally the rest of the way home.
View 16 Replies
Started yesterday. Dry road. Brand new Perrelli P4s . at about 60-65 traction control comes on and car starts doing the "surging". I had the same tires on it up to this point so except for being new,no difference.
View 19 Replies
