Prius (2010-12) :: Power Switch On The Rear Right Door Isn't Working
Aug 16, 2015
I've bought a 2010 Prius recently, it seems I overlooked something when test driving. I bought it for a very good price from a private seller, so no warranty. When I test drove I tried all the windows from the driver's side, everything worked. My wife was sitting next to me, that switch also worked. We both seem to have forgotten to check the switches in the back Today my father, sitting in the back, realized the power switch on the rear right door isn't working, The window and motor are fine, I can open and close the window from the driver's side, but the switch on the rear door itself doesn't work.
If this was any other (cheap) car, I'd just take off the door panel and check the switch. Since this is an expensive car, I thought it would be smarter to ask here first.
Great car btw, very strange to drive. Feels like I'm driving a space ship
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Having issue with power windows in 2010 Prius. I just noticed today that I can't roll down the rear passenger side window from the driver door switch but all the other windows work, and the rear passenger window works as I can roll down from the door itself.
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Car: 2014 Prius, basic model
Symptom: Only rear left electric window and electric lock are not working. They are not responding to driver side control or remote key control. Electronics on other 3 doors function normally.
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I just had some body work on the doors on the passenger side. Now the master window control (drivers door) will not operate the rear passenger window. The rear passenger door window control DOES work. I went right back to the body shop and let them know.The guy called back saying something about a guy coming this monday to do a system reset?
I'm a new owner. Its a 2013 Prius 2.
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We just upgraded our Prius from Gen 3 to Gen 3....a 2012. Great ride, just drove it from SoCal on a Sierra Mtns road trip, a little hiking and snowboarding for our spring break. What we failed to notice upon purchase was a passenger door whose controls want work! The drivers door can lock the car and operate the passenger window and lock. However, the passenger door switch won't open or close the window, nor will it lock the door. All other doors and locks work normally.
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About 4 months ago I was at the gas station and when I tried opening my fuel door, the switch wasn't working. I went home, took the door trim off, and then removed the switch in order to clean it. Once I cleaned it, it worked but about every 3rd time that I clicked it. However, yesterday it finally gave out as I was at the gas station. So I came home and now I'm stuck because I don't want to break the fuel door.
I ran through the fuses in the fuse box but on the diagram none seem to be for the fuel door. The weird thing is that yesterday as the fuel door switch gave out, so did the interior door lock switch. Now I have to insert the key from the outside in order to enter the car. But the key cannot unlock the passenger door.
When I hit the interior door lock switch, I hear a click noise under the dash. I took a look under there and it seems to be a bunch of relays. It's very tough to tell which one is the one clicking.
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On our 2013 Prius II, it seems there are no options to switch off the rear dome light for the 2nd row seating without affecting the front -- the rear dome switch is only 2-positions (ON or ON w/doors) instead of 3 like most dome lights are (like the front). The problem for us is that we have a baby that rides in the back and when baby is asleep and we come home guess what happens.
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So on my 2001 passat v6 the trunk wont open with the switch on the driver door for some reason and it seems the previous owner wanted to fix it and instead messed up and now the rear driver side door wont open even when its "unlocked".
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My 04' FX4 rear door locks hesitate to open with the key fob or the door switch. I can get them to open sometimes but not every time. Why this is happening?
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So I have an issue over the last couple weeks, when I open the driver's door the power steps extend, and anywhere from 10 seconds to a minute later the step will retract like I closed the door. I didn't notice this the first time so the first step out of the truck caught me off guard. Now I pay attention to see it is extended before I get out.
So at first I thought it was a step issue, like it wasn't getting a consistent signal that the door was open, but I noticed yesterday when I had the door open, truck running, and radio on it all of a sudden retracted. I shut the truck off and got out but the radio kept playing because the truck thought the door was closed even though it was wide open. I closed the door and opened it and the radio shut off and the step extended and retracted like it should.
So last night I left the door open, truck off, no key in it. Over a period of 5 minutes, the step extended and retracted 8 times. My issue is only with the drivers door, the back doors and passenger doors don't appear to have an issue.
Where is the switch for the door? I think that would be the best place to start in replacing that.
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I know about the need for resetting the power windows after a battery reset. I have one window, the rear passenger side door, that does not work from the master switch. It does work at the door itself, but the green LED is NOT illuminated, or blinking. When I try to roll the window down on the first press, there is no response, but the LED illuminates solid. At the second press, the window works. When I attempt the reset procedure on the window (press and hold the one touch down after the window closes, then repeat the procedure going up. However, when I do this, the instructions say that the light will be blinking, and you should hold it until it is solid. Mine is solid when I am holding the switch, then after about 10 seconds, the light goes out and does not illuminate again.
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I was the victim of someone scratching the rear door on the left side. I can feel with it with my fingernail. Is it best to have a pro fix it come Spring time.. I have a '15 Pearl White Persona.
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Our 2010 base model GX 460 was 'born' in November 2009 and purchased new in February 2010, but we never used the 120 VAC power outlet at the back of the cargo compartment by the rear door hinge. I was cleaning and swapping 'summer' floor mats for 'winter' mats and decided to see if the outlet works. The appended pictures prove it does produce 120 VAC .... actually, almost 124 VAC, but I have no way to test if it can supply 100 Watts, much less the waveform shape. Perhaps it could light a 100 Watt incandescent bulb, but nothing sensitive to supply line glitches!
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Is it a big deal to remove the left rear interior door panel? The dealer replaced the door glass and, naturally, the tech didn't align the glass correctly. I'll align the glass myself.
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I have a 2002 Saturn Vue with a couple of miles on it (228,436 to be exact). I bought the car used in 2009 with 150K miles. Since I bought the vehicle, the electric door locks have stopped working, both with the key fop and with the door lock switches. This all started with the key fob working intermittently, and eventually degraded to the door lock switches not working. When I press the door lock switches on any of the doors you can hear the relay try to engage, however the doors do not lock or unlock. This is particularly interesting since now when I turn the ignition off, instead of unlocking the door, the system locks three of the doors and the hatch (it does nothing with the driver side door). I am not sure where to start looking for the root cause of this problem.
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I gave my Prius to my mom a year ago. She was complaining that the rear door lock behind her can sometimes stick, resulting in it locking or not locking. Also any tips and DIY on how to remove the rear door panel?
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I have a 2010 Prius V-ATP with remote keyless entry. When I open the driver door the rear doors do not unlock. When I open the front passenger door, the rear doors do unlock. I would like the driver door to open all 4 doors too. Is this normal operation?. Is there something I can do to fix it or do I have to take it to the dealer?
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My '11 Prius has developed a problem where the rear passenger door will not open from the inside. It will open from the outside. All other doors function as they should.
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Got our 2012 package 5 lesss than a month ago, so we haven't had much opportunity to use the rear defroster. The two times I have used it I noticed that it works well on the upper rear window, but the glass below the rear spoiler doesn't seem to be clearing. The red/orange "wires" are visible in the glass, but don't appear to do anything. Wasn't planning to head back to the dealer until first service since we haven't had any other problems, but this could be annoying with the winter weather.
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The uneven wear occurred again, this time only giving me 22,644 miles on the rear brakes. So, I am on my third set of rear brakes at 78,000 miles.
This time the dealer contacted the district rep since this was a repeat occurrence. It turns out a week after my first rear brake job, Toyota issued T-SB-0248-12, for this very problem, on the 2010 - 2012 Prius and on the 2012 Prius PHV. There is a new brake pad that is supposed to address this problem. The old part number that was put on my car during the first brake job was 04466-76011 and the new part number is 04466-47080. The receipt also shows Brake Shim Grease part number 08887-80409, which is noted in the TSB.
Toyota did the right thing in that they covered the cost of the brake job I just had done. I just opened a case asking to be reimbursed for the first brake job since this turned out to be a problem that was addressed with a new part.
I suggest anyone with a 2010-2012 Prius or 2012 Prius PHV that needs rear brakes, make sure you insist on getting this updated pad and point out this TSB. My service adviser said they were going to replace all of their pads with the old part number with the updated pad, so other customers going forward receive this new pad, though he also said they just don't do a lot of Prius brake jobs.
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Trunk release switch on drivers door does not open trunk. Remote and key will open trunk. Sounds like a motor is trying to close the trunk when it is being closed, but does not pull it shut ?
1. I did pull on the switch
2. Gas door switch works fine
3. It is a standard trunk (not powered)
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