Prius (2010-12) :: Power Light Not Coming On
Apr 18, 2015
I seem to recall this lighting up whenever I accelerated past the "eco" threshold. But now it just stays grayed out and doesn't light up. (See arrow indication in pic below) Maybe it never did but I can't remember for sure.
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I'm not sure exactly which lights I need to switch out, but my passenger side BRAKE light is not coming on/getting brighter when I press the brake pedal. Can this be a DIY job or do I have to take it in?
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I wanted to pass along the results of a brake issue I encountered in my 2010 Prius (15K miles) and report to interested Prius owners how the issue was resolved.
Problem: In the last second (or so) coming to a complete stop I noticed a few light clunk type sounds, like something was loose up front. I never experienced any degradation in the braking performance.
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I drive a 2010 Prius which I bought in July 2010. After having had to hit the brakes full throttle to avoid a collision I now have the following issue. Every so often when coming up to a red light and starting to brake in a normal fashion, all of a sudden the brake power just disappears and the car no longer brakes as it should. I then release and hit the brake again and the car luckily comes to a stop before I hit the car in front of me. I have had this happen twice and two days now. Went to the dealer who told me he checked the computer and there is no error code. Somehow sounds like the issue that supposedly was fixed in the beginning of 2010 with a software update. My dealer says there is nothing wrong but then he hasn't driven the car and experienced this.
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Have had a 2012 Prius Four for about one year with no problems. Within last several weeks, it started to go dead (no power, but charged batteries) intermittently after normal park and shutoff. Frequency of this issue has increased.
The only way to revive the car seems to be to turn on the rear dome light. Once the dome light is turned on, the Nav screen turns blue saying "System Downloading, do not turn off power" and car starts and runs fine. I've tried to keep track of circumstances when it happens and have not been able to determine any commonalities (hot/cool weather, solar recirculator on/off, short/long trip, dry/wet day).
The battery is charged and appears to maintain a charge as well as when it does restart, the battery is showing good charge 60-90%.
Car clock time will be off by as long as it sat without power (again indicating that the entire car is going dead).
It has happened immediately after turning off (I find out because I can't use key fob or touch to lock the doors).
It has happened while car was unattended (car locked, left and came back several hours later and can't get into car without manual key unlock, clock was off by about the same time I was away from it).
Front cabin lights, pressing brake and power button, headlights, radio, door locks, etc...none of it will re-enable the power. Except the dome light for back seat.
When it's in this no power state, just switch the dome light on and the car comes back to life (still needs started with normal procedure). I didn't believe my wife until I had this happen to me multiple times in the last week as I drove it to troubleshoot it.
What is causing my electrical gremlin. I'm thinking maybe a flaky relay. Makes no sense to me why the dome light would trip something to start up again. Worried that the dome light trick won't work one of these times.
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I have a 2011 Prius IV and have noticed the power mirror controls have no back lighting. Is this correct or do I have a light out?
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This started about 2 months ago. About 10% of the time when I depress the brake and press the Power button, all the dash lights come on except the Ready light (it acts as if I pressed the Power button twice without my foot on the brake). When I depress the brake a second time and press Power button again, the Ready light will still NOT come on. I have to press Power button with foot off the brake to shut off the dash lights (the car is effectively off) and then when I press Power button with foot on brake a second time, the Ready light will come on. I effectively have to try to start the car twice. I also noticed that the interior lights are dimmer when I open the driver's door until it goes through it's normal noisy gyration (something to do with the brakes?). I'm thinking that the 12-volt battery is starting to fail. Does my Gen III 2010 Prius have a diagnostic tool to check the battery?
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I was driving my 2010 Prius on the Highway (less than 2 miles) and the engine check light came on.... shortly after the ! (triangle with exclamation light came on and then started flashing). I exited the highway and was going back home. On the way home, I noticed a decrease in acceleration and then a message 'Hybrid...'
I was able to coast into an apartment complex and then got a ride home.
After about a couple of hours, I went back to the Apartment Complex. I reviewed the manual and one of the options was to check the gas cap. I filled the tank up last weekend and haven't driven it since today.
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My oil maintenance light keeps coming on at 5k miles even though oil change is suggested at10k with correct oil...
is there a way to have the reminder set at 10k its getting annoying...
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2004 F-250 6.0 Turbo Diesel W/ Torque Shift Transmission. Im having a problem with my Check Gauge light coming on and Tow Haul light flashing on my 04 F-250. I got a Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor from my local Ford Dealership. They also said i needed to replace the Transmission harness for this application because of an open circuit.
My questions are, Is Mercon SP the only ATF that can be used on the Torque shift transmission and do i really need to replace the harness or just the sensor? I have read up a little on this and so far everything say's drain the fluid, drop the trans pan, swap out the sensor, replace the trans pan (torque setting is 11flbs I believe, correct me if I am wrong, replace with Mercon SP ATF and your good to go.
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I just bought this 2010 RX350. The skid control light has been coming on occasionally. I first noticed it when I was stopped (in gear) and I reached around to the back seat, I put pressure on the brake pedal while reaching around. There was a beep and the light came on. Then the other day while stopped at a red light I pushed on the pedal inadvertently and that skid control light popped on. I then noticed if I put pressure on the brake pedal while the car is stopped and in gear this light comes on. When I take my foot off the brake to proceed on down the road you can feel a deliberate pause as something is kicking back into gear and then the light goes off and the car is fine. Is this something going bad?
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So I've had my elantra (2013) for 3 months. Today I notice when I unlocked the doors, the interior lights didn't come on. When I tried to turn them on nothing happened. Then I tried turning the car on and they all came on. Then I turned the car off and the interior lights didn't turn on when I pulled out the key like they normally do. Then I tried opening the door, and the lights didn't turn on like they normally do when I open the door.
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What is that little noise coming from the engine bay when you unlock and open the drivers door?
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I’ve been having this awful mold smell coming from my 3rd gen during the first few minutes of AC use in the warmer weather months when I generally use AC more often. This mold smell rarely happened in the winter since I usually only use heat without AC and the air circulation is usually set to “outside” instead of re-circulate.
So I’ve read somewhere to simply not use the default recirculate setting when operating the AC to avoid the mold smell, and if using the re-circulate – to only use it to initially cool down the car then switch to outside circulation.
Some also state while the AC is on outside air circulation to turn off the AC a couple of minutes before arriving to your destination while keeping the fan on, but mainly I see that simply using the outside air circulation resolves my odor issue.
Keep in mind, that the default setting for AC while cooling down the vehicle is to re-circulate when using the “auto” mode – so you’ll have to be cognitive about switching it to outside air each time.
This method works like a charm for me. It has been driving me nuts for two seasons. Since following the above, I’ve not had that stinky mold/wet sock/hamper smell coming from my vents.
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Today I noticed a sound as I was driving almost like I forgot to shut a door. I believe it is coming from the vent which is located on the right side of the back seat. I'm not sure if I ever heard this before. It's been in the 90's this week.
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Walked into my garage where my 2011 Prius (have owned for 11 months, now at ~78K miles) had been sitting for about 4-5 hours after being used for a 4 mile trip. I heard a quite battery hum from the rear for about 1-2 minutes. I've heard this before... (it is not unlike the hum you hear in the front when opening the driver's door after the car has been sitting a bit.... and I've noticed that the duration of this front hum seems to be correlated with the time since last drive?). No clue what is was...
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I recently purchased a 2010 Prius, model V with the "Advanced Technology Package".
Now just this morning though, after it rained last night, I took off and once I hit the break for the first time, water came pouring down out of the box that houses the little forward facing camera (near the rear view mirror). I was shocked. I'm wondering how that water makes it into the cabin. No sunroof here.
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We own 2 2011 Prius cars bought at the same time in late May. Both have around 4600 miles on them. However, one has started showing a, Oil Maintenance is need soon , screen each time now at start up.
My question is first off, why is happening ? It was my understanding that the oil change level is 10,000 miles. Both cars were made well into the new 10,000 mile oil change requirement, so why is this light going off?
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Check engine light came on about 2 weeks ago on my 2013 elantra gls. I went to auto zone to get it checked and they ran a p2096, which is what I had almost a year ago. That was fixed by dealer software update. So, I thought that was what needed to be done, headed to the closest Hyundai and they found p2096 and p2196. They replaced the o2 sensor bank 1, under warranty.
However, the next day the check engine light came on, less than 24 hours. Brought it back to the dealer, they said everything was within the correct "parameters" and said the light shouldn't come back on. On the way to work this morning, the check engine light came on, when the car was in the exact same spot it was yesterday.
I'm thinking the computer doesn't recognize the repair and needs to cycle a few times but I don't know. I'm so tired of going to the dealership because they are obviously missing something if the light is still on.
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My 2010 Prius was hit while parked. The left side was wiped out and the whole car was pushed sideways about 2-3 inches, with the parking brake on. Toyota checked out the car and said everything looked fine. But there is this odd sounding humm coming from the rear of the car. Toyota says that is normal. Is this true?
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Since new my Prius V has had a metallic clattering sound that comes from underneath the car. This can be replicated when driving over lane divider dots on a quiet street with the windows down. To investigate, I put the car on ramps and looked around; I was almost certain the sound was coming from a thin aluminum heat shield that is just behind the engine. Tapping this shield made a similar sound to what I heard coming from under the car while driving over bumps and such. The shield is poorly attached with those "fun" push pin fasteners that seem to be liberally deployed all over the undercarriage. I decided to re-attach the shield with a judicious circular application of silicone under each of the holes in the shield and let it dry. The clattering sound I heard previously when tapping the shield was gone. Out for a test drive and still there!
I just had the first service done, and of course the tech couldn't hear it on his test drive. Unfortunately I was pressed for time, so I wasn't able to take a test drive with the tech. I will drive the tech around next time and demonstrate it.
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