Prius (2010-12) :: Power Door Locks / Headlights No Longer Respond To Remote
Dec 18, 2013
Have a feeling it may be the actuator or the motors in the door. One by one, the power locks on my prius are not responding to the remote or the lock button on the door. The headlights no longer respond to the remote as well. Pressing the remote just causes the car alarm to chirp 4-5 times.
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I have a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan. The door locks do not respond to the remote or the switch on the door. If I disconnect the battery for a few seconds, they will work for a day or two. It seems to be a computer problem. Is there only one? Where is it and are there any other tests I can do to troubleshoot this?
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From both the key remote and inside the car the power locks only occasionally respond. Currently most of the time just the driver side os working. Acts the same when the car is running and when it is off. Seems like the first time i hit lock or unlock it works but repeatedly doing it it stips moving the lock. Bad relay?
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My driver side door no longer unlocks/locks when I use either my remote or the button in the car.
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I'm having an issue on my remotes (2) I recently try and lock the doors with both remotes and sometimes it does not respond. I changed the battery 2 days ago and still having the issue. I will have to hit the remote 5 times next to driver's door to lock sometimes. Other times it's fine.
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I have a 2011 Avalon. The power door locks will all lock with the door button and the remote key. The problem is that only the drivers door will unlock with either method, what a pain.
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Driving today I noticed a hot smell, it went away shortly after. When I got home I noticed the electric door locks no longer function. I guess this will be a test of my 3rd party warranty!
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My wife's 2010 Corolla has an issue where the key fob will open the truck and all the doors except the front driver door. Is this a common issue with the Corolla? What are the potential fixes?
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Was on my way to get an oil change at my buddies shop. Started hearing a clicking sound. My climate controls no longer will respond. the Auto button is lit up but I can't turn the air off. I get hot air from the vents. When the clicking does stop the system goes back to working order. My friend checked it out and says the clicking is from the blend door motor.
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My passenger front door lock will not work with remotes or lock unlock buttons inside vehicle.
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Passenger side and trunk work just fine. Drivers side door no longer unlocks with the remote. Passenger side and trunk work just fine. Fresh batteries and all. I forgot how inconvenient it was not having a remote to unlock.
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My remote locks only work intermittently when I press the buttons on the key fob. The locks on the drivers door and rear drivers side door also only work occasionally. If it turns out it's the module in the driver's door, is there a way to repair it? Or must it be replaced?
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I have a 2013 Gen 3 Prius II. 55k miles. Purchased brand new 2.5 years ago so I am out of warranty by mileage unfortunately.
One by one over the past two months three of my door locks have stopped functioning. Front left, front right, and back right. Sometimes if it isn't too hot outside my driver's door will work. Otherwise the car just beeps repeatedly when I walk up to it until I unlock it with my key manually. I've seen in some older threads that people have had the same issue. It seems to be the door lock actuators based on those threads. It's incredibly frustrating that a 2.5 year old car is having this problem on three doors. It also seems obvious that these actuators are garbage if 3 out of 4 of them have crapped out independently right around the same time.
Seems to be a very expensive repair when done by Toyota per door. I will have it looked at this week but don't have high hopes. Seems like you should be able to make a good case that the failure rate is too high if multiple doors are failing.
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We've had our '11 Prius II now for a couple weeks, and I have run into a problem I can't seem to figure out. When I lock the car, either using the button on the FOB or the smart key, then come back and try to unlock it using the smart key, it will lock the vehicle again. I have to wait a few seconds and try the smart key again and then it will unlock. I tried the search, but haven't found any thing describing this. Am I doing something wrong?
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The "lock" button of my remote door lock fob stopped working. 2006 Toyota Matrix... I went out to my car this morning and it was unlocked. Apparently been unlocked since I drove it 2 days ago.Someone went in it and emptied the contents of my glove compartment on to the floor and opened all the other compartments, except the one for change.Stupid thief could have heisted ~$2 in quarters. I never leave valuables in my car.I could still lock the doors with the buttons on the front doors, so I went researching the remote lock receiver (one of the many "black boxes").I found out it's expensive ($4-500 new) and buried behind trim in the back of the car.This evening I was thinking more clearly and calmly so I went out to pull the trim and have a look at this module.I tried the "hatch" button to see if the separate rear glass opening latch still functioned, and it did.I closed the glass and low and behold the "lock" button started working again! Problem solved!So the remote won't lock the doors if the rear glass is not closed securely.
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So I've got a 2010 Honda Civic Sedan. Recently the door locks on all the doors but the driver door have become weak. In that when you hit the lock or unlock button they may or may not fully lock/unlock. And if you listen they sound like motors that are not getting enough power. I had the battery and alternator checked and they both come back fine. Initially I thought it was just the passenger door but after more investigation it seems to be all but the drivers door.
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I can unlock the door(s) of my 98 Explorer using the key remote and door switches but locking them with the key remote and door switches no longer work. What could it be?
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I have a 2007 Accent SE Hatchback. The drivers door will lock but will not unlock with the remote. The drivers door locks and unlocks with the inside door switch and locks and unlocks with the key. The passenger door and hatch unlock on the 2nd click with the remote. The only issue with the locking system is that the drivers door will not unlock with the remote.
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Car: 1996 Nissan Maxima
The car has an automatic antenna (up/down when you turn on/off the radio). I wanted to disconnect the motor to leave it in the up position. I followed the cables to the antenna (left the coax alone, of course), and cut the 3 conductors that were leading to "a box" under the antenna. NOTE: This area in behind a metal panel.
As intended, the antenna is stuck in the up position. The problem is that I also lost the dash clock, the remote to the door locks stopped working, and the radio memory buttons do not work anymore (the radio comes on in AM every time).
AND here is the mystery; I went back to the cables, spliced them together (correctly - they are color coded) but NOTHING CAME BACK TO NORMAL. The radio is still messed up, remote still not working, and the dash clock is still off.
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Ok been having some electrical issues. Im a disabled war vet and cannot afford overpriced mechanics so me and dad try to fix everything. Started weeks ago while driving if I flashed my high beams on I would lose power which made me think it was the altenator at first. Car left me stranded so had it towed to dads where we are trying to track down the problem on a 96 lexus es300. Now the car wont turn over although I do hear a clicking from the relay upfront. The headlights wont come on and door locks and security system no longer work.
Battery is new and good so we thought it was the ignition. Replaced today after tearing apart most of the dash to get to it . It fired up and cranked once then ceased to turnover yet again. When it turned over headlights and all power worked to door locks again. Fuses all seem good but seems there is an intermittent problem somewhere. Checked the 40amp fuse and it looked slightly blackish but intact and checked with volt meter and it tested fine. Im not sure where to go from this point. Maybe the integration switch or starter relay??
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If I leave my 2013 RX parked for longer periods (5-14 days) w/o starting it does not want to recognize my key for starting oftentimes. I end up having to remove from my pocket and hold it up to the ignition button so it recognizes and then it will start.
I have had the battery checked in the remote and it is fine. The dealer tells me this can happen as the vehicle battery can run down in that amount of time since there are electronics within the vehicle still functioning that will draw from the battery.
I have no problem if I drive the vehicle every day or even every 2-3 days. Vehicle only has about 6,000 miles on it.
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