Prius (2010-12) :: Power Window Switch Reset Failure
Mar 15, 2016
I know about the need for resetting the power windows after a battery reset. I have one window, the rear passenger side door, that does not work from the master switch. It does work at the door itself, but the green LED is NOT illuminated, or blinking. When I try to roll the window down on the first press, there is no response, but the LED illuminates solid. At the second press, the window works. When I attempt the reset procedure on the window (press and hold the one touch down after the window closes, then repeat the procedure going up. However, when I do this, the instructions say that the light will be blinking, and you should hold it until it is solid. Mine is solid when I am holding the switch, then after about 10 seconds, the light goes out and does not illuminate again.
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I recently noticed that one of my windows doesn't go all the way down when I use the switch. I try auto down as well as holding the switch down until the window reaches the bottom, but no matter what, the window won't go down as far as the others.
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We just upgraded our Prius from Gen 3 to Gen 3....a 2012. Great ride, just drove it from SoCal on a Sierra Mtns road trip, a little hiking and snowboarding for our spring break. What we failed to notice upon purchase was a passenger door whose controls want work! The drivers door can lock the car and operate the passenger window and lock. However, the passenger door switch won't open or close the window, nor will it lock the door. All other doors and locks work normally.
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Having issue with power windows in 2010 Prius. I just noticed today that I can't roll down the rear passenger side window from the driver door switch but all the other windows work, and the rear passenger window works as I can roll down from the door itself.
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The power window on the passenger front side will go down using the switch on that door, but, I have to put it up using the switch on the driver's side. What is happening?
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Replaced the battery on my 07 the other day, and subsequently discovered my passenger side power window would not open or close from driver side control switch. Initially thought the worse of course, that I needed a new motor for the passenger side window. Then I tried the passenger side window switch and the window worked fine.
So now, I think that the switch for the passenger side window (on the driver's side) is bad, and I will need to replace the whole switch control module. Did a search and found the root cause and solution to the problem. Apparently, after replacing a battery, I needed to RESET the passenger side switch from the passenger side, by HOLDING the switch approx. 3 seconds after raising and lowering the window two times.
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I have a 97 xlt fully loaded. Have been noticing once and a while the battery drained enough not to start. Have been attributing it to my son not turning off the dvd player in the back. I was wrong. Went out this evening to pick up company van, and the truck was dead. When i reached in to unlock the door, i accidently pushed on the power window switch and the window rolled out....key was not in the ignition. It quit when I opened the door.
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2003 Jetta GLI 2.8L 24v VR6 .... Last night I went to a friends house, everything was normal on the way there, probably 35-40 degrees out. When I got to his house and shut off the car and pulled the key out the power died (clock/trip meter reset) and the alarm started going off. It has done this before once or twice but I could never figure out what it was and it was never really an issue except for the clock resetting.
Jets won, went to leave and the car wouldn't start. It was raining gently at the time but the car has weathered worse. I replaced the battery ~2-4 months ago so it should definitely still be good. Jumped with my friend's car, started on the first try. I let it sit for a bit then we were on our way.
1/4 mile away in the middle of an intersection the car died, power steering, everything, and I had to drift to the other side of the road. The person across the street from me was a cop and it was 12:30 in the morning but he was gone before my car died. I have been driving 5/6 speeds all my life and I know I didn't cause the stall out. The dash lights flickered and dimmed. I shut everything off and then gave it a try and the car started right up. Revved the engine a few times, reverse and drove away. It was fine the rest of the way home.
The battery connections are tight. The car has started every single time up until now with the new battery. My old battery did leak some acid on the copper connectors and into the main positive power cable but I neutralized all of it and cleaned it off and it looked fine except for some pitting on the outside of the terminal clamp. The car is mostly stock except for the exhaust but that was years ago.
Current Battery Voltage: 12.37 ... I just started the car for the first time this morning and it started perfectly. started @ ~1200 and then settled down to ~800rpm after a bit, it usually does this when its cold out. No codes have been thrown.
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I have a 95 Chevy G30 van. The power windows, power locks, and power mirrors stopped working when I installed an electronic trailer brake controller. I disconnected the controller. The circuit breakers are fine. Where do I look next?
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So the two windows on the passenger side have fallen and can't get up. These regulators you gotta buy to fix the problem cost a ton, and just as much to have installed. Why on earth can you not buy the little plastic brackets to fix the problem instead of the whole regulator? If there IS a way to buy these brackets, it would be keen to know...
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I've bought a 2010 Prius recently, it seems I overlooked something when test driving. I bought it for a very good price from a private seller, so no warranty. When I test drove I tried all the windows from the driver's side, everything worked. My wife was sitting next to me, that switch also worked. We both seem to have forgotten to check the switches in the back Today my father, sitting in the back, realized the power switch on the rear right door isn't working, The window and motor are fine, I can open and close the window from the driver's side, but the switch on the rear door itself doesn't work.
If this was any other (cheap) car, I'd just take off the door panel and check the switch. Since this is an expensive car, I thought it would be smarter to ask here first.
Great car btw, very strange to drive. Feels like I'm driving a space ship
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I have a 2006 Prius with 100,000. My husband just called me from the road (3 hours away on the way home). He pressed his button on the drivers side door to roll the driver's side back window down a crack. After he let go of the button, the window continued to go down all the way then wouldn't go back up. He stopped and tried to put it up using the button on the back door, but it didn't work. He then turned the car off in order to get gas, and when he started the car, the check engine light came on. He's driving now trying to get home before anything more goes wrong.
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In May the driver's side window mechanism (motor + "window regulator" are the primary parts) self destructed on my 2002 Hyundai Accent and left the window stuck in the down position. Since the car only has 35,000 miles on it, and since I live in a cold climate and didn't lower the windows much, I concluded it was a manufacturing failure.
So rather than spend about $700 to have the mechanism redone, I elected for 1/10 as much money to have a body shop remove the mechanism and wedge up the window in the up position permanently with blocks and screws. Since I was told by a couple of mechanics that this type of failure occurs in other vehicles, I was still sticking by Hyundai and planning to buy another one 3-5 years from now.
But I have been forced to change my plans. Today (in September) the passenger side window mechanism self destructed and, once again, left the window stuck in the down position! Naturally, I am going to have the same solution applied to the passenger side window now. As a result of this (and an unbelievable brake problem that I don't have time to get into) I have been forced to change my mind and can no longer support Hyundai.
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I've got a 2001 Toyota Solara, and the driver's side power window has stopped working (in the "up") position. Other windows and powered items in the car work, and there's no sound when I hit the electric switch. From a rough inspection of the apparatus, I don't think that the regulator itself is shot. I'd love to repair this myself...but for this car it will be way more expensive to buy the regulator/motor unit than just the motor online.
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Started truck, used windshield washer and noticed High Beam Indicator was lit on dash. Headlight switch not on. Drove to Ford dealer, turned off truck, high beams would not shut off. Dealer replaced the Turn Signal/wiper/High beam switch assembly. Dealer had one in stock. Service manager said they have replaced a few of these Switches. So if your High Beams come on without the headlight switch on you cannot turn them off even if you shut off and exit truck. Also the "You left your lights on warning chime" does not sound when you exit truck.
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Some of my controls on the steering wheel are not working. Is that a simple fuse swap or a take it to the dealer type fix? I tried to check on the fuse thing, but was unable to find anything related to the steering wheel.
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My front passenger window switch seems to have died. Where is the easiest/cheapest place to get one right away?
1996 1500LT, window works fine when I use the driver door switches.
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I purchased a 1985 celica GTS, convertible, rear wheel drive. I am having a problem with the drivers side power window. I can raise and lower the window with a direct 12v battery hook up to either the lift motor or from the terminals that connect to the switch. The switch will lower the motor but not raise it. When activated to raise the window you can hear the motor enterguise but will not lift. I check the voltage at the switch and I am getting 12 volts. What should I check next?
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Car Make/Model: 2001 Hyundai Elantra
So, in order to access the parking garage at work, free of charge, I MUST swipe my ID badge upon entering and exiting. That requires lowering my driver window (front left window) and extending my hand out. So, I pressed the switch downward to roll the window down, and I heard a small pop or click and all the sudden the switch was stuck in the downward position and my window would just roll all the way down. I would flick it upward, the window goes up, but then it retakes its downward position. I have to apply my window lock to keep it upward and sometimes I have to hold the switch up and immediately turn my car off to keep the window from rolling back down.
The window rolls up and down like it normally would. There is no slowness or delay.....the motion still seems pretty smooth.
Questions:
What are the possible problems and solutions?
How much to fix it, if I choose to?
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As the title says, I have an intermittent issue with the power window in the driver's door. It always works, with the exception of when it gets really damp during the night. In that case when I get in the truck first thing, the window will go down, but not always up the first few tries.
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My power window switch illumination has gone dark on one side of the switches....
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