Prius (2010-12) :: Power Button Unresponsive - Car Simply Wouldn't Turn On
Jun 11, 2014
My 2011 Prius II hasn't had any issue for the 3 years I've had it until two days ago when the car simply wouldn't turn on. The battery would "whirl" when I would press on the brakes but when I pushed to power button nothing would happen and the Ready light would never come on. The power button didn't have any color (orange/green). The batteries were charged and would spark when cables were connected to them.
I tried it again about an hour later and it worked fine. I drove it for a couple minutes and parked it hoping that it was a fluke. Another hour later I tried to start the car and the same problem as earlier happened. I decided to tow it to the nearest Toyota dealership to get it examined/fixed, but after they've had it for 2 days now they cannot get the car to reproduce the same symptoms.
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My radio was working fine on Friday, but the next time I drove the car, on Sunday, the radio wouldn't turn on. The power button doesn't do anything, pressing the mode button doesn't do anything and the voice command button doesn't do anything.
Everything else works... bluetooth, display, Nav. Just the radio/CD player won't turn on... it just says "Audio Off". Also, when I go into the diag screen, the Audio reports "NCON". I've checked the fuses listed in the Owners Manuel as audio and they all seem fine.
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Drove to a friend's last night. My wife had the key in her purse, but I was driving. After we all got out of the car and shut all the doors, I couldn't lock the car with the outside button. I eventually opened the door & locked it. After coming back out, the car unlocked fine and started fine, so the SKS was working.
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My Prius engine wouldn't shut off when the button was pushed. The Toyota dealer was clueless.
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2010 Prius, ~250k miles, pressing power button to turn off on results in a semi-regular "pulling the plug experience" instead of a graceful shutdown displaying the mileage and time, can happen a couple times in a day.
IGCT relay and both integrated relays replaced in the fusebox, as well as power switch. Takes between 2-90 seconds to recover and turn back on. Lights out and dark during that period. No codes shown in Techstream.
Sometimes is bad enough that the Nav system reloads the DVD and settings. However, bluetooth and all other functions work once it's up and running. HV battery replaced last year, as well as 12V battery.
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My dashboard goes out periodically then magically is restored. They say to replace that. I've decided just to trade it in and get a non-Prius. This morning, however, after driving for a short time, I pushed the power button to turn off the vehicle and it only partially shut off. The key wasn't in, so I put it in and tried again. Now it says there's no key in the ignition and still will not turn off nor turn on.
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My Pris 2010 would not start this morning. My wife tried to start the car this morning and it would not start. All the symbols on the display light up and would not go. She then tries to turn off the car, but the Triangle symbol with the exclamation mark within it lights up. The Start button light is red and the Park button flashes green. Added to that is the constant beep that you hear when you try to close the door with the keys in the car. I cannot even turn the steering wheel. I had to get it towed to the Toyota dealer and am was told that i would hear back tomorrow.
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I have a 2013 Prius Three. If I drive somewhere (engine completely warm) and stop, like at a store, come back 5-10 mins later, hit the power button, sometimes the ICE will start and immediately shut off, like within 1 second. It can't be the warm up cycle as the ICE is at normal operating temperature. I guess it is not a issue, as one of the 20 computers is doing this and there are no lights(like cel).
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Just wondering if I should be concerned. It doesn't happen every time, but it sounds like grinding of a gear or something like that. I made a video .....
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So this has already happened to me a 2nd time so far.
I depress brakes and hit the power button once when I first drive it in the morning after the Prius has been sitting for a while.
Instead of the power LED turning green, it turns red/amber, and the ready light does not show up blinking or come on at all. To me it almost appears to be in IG-ON mode.
I hit the power button again (can't remember if my foot was on the brake) and all the accessories shut down/car shuts down and I see the shifter indicator on the screen.
I then try to start again by depressing brake and hitting power button once. Now everything starts up fine and the ready symbol is there.
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This started about 2 months ago. About 10% of the time when I depress the brake and press the Power button, all the dash lights come on except the Ready light (it acts as if I pressed the Power button twice without my foot on the brake). When I depress the brake a second time and press Power button again, the Ready light will still NOT come on. I have to press Power button with foot off the brake to shut off the dash lights (the car is effectively off) and then when I press Power button with foot on brake a second time, the Ready light will come on. I effectively have to try to start the car twice. I also noticed that the interior lights are dimmer when I open the driver's door until it goes through it's normal noisy gyration (something to do with the brakes?). I'm thinking that the 12-volt battery is starting to fail. Does my Gen III 2010 Prius have a diagnostic tool to check the battery?
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I parked the car.. Came out to proceed but car wouldn't turn on.. No lights coming on.. I think I left the lights on.. But I was only away for like 20 min.. It's a Prius ..
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THE PROBLEM: Our Prius 12V aux battery died after my wife left the light on inside the car and instead of buying a new battery, we decided to try jump starting it. My wife tried jump starting our Prius with the neighbors pickup truck and even though I wasn't physically there to witness it, I'm pretty sure that the polarity got swapped during the process. It wouldn't start afterwards, so we went out and bought a brand new 12V aux battery. The prius still will not start. No electric components seem to work (door locks, back brake lights, windows, radio don't work). The dash only shows the orange exclamation mark and the check engine light, nothing else. The power button blinks orange, never goes green.
TROUBLESHOOTING that I've tried:
1. Checked the big 120A fuse right on the positive + terminal. Visibly looked good.
2. Checked all the fuses by the drivers left knee. All tested good with resistance + visible checks.
3. Checked all the fuses in the fusebox under the hood. All tested good EXCEPT the big relay integration fuse under the white plastic cover. It was definitely blown.
4. Replaced the relay integration, still no luck, same exact symptoms.
5. Tried force starting the car in emergency mode by holding the brake and power button down for 15+ secs. The engine starts, but the dash is still dead showing just the check engine light and orange exclamation mark. Can not shift gears or drive.
6. Tried slow charging the NEW battery to get the voltage higher, still no luck. It's testing about 13V with everything off.
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So the PO tells me he was flying down the highway and went to cancel his cruise control and it wouldn't turn off. He claims he made it to the shoulder of the highway and killed the ignition. When he restarted the truck is was turned off and it hasn't been used since. I tried to use it yesterday but couldn't get it to work?
So I do the search and find out that the deactivation switch is most likely the issue. I just picked up a new one today and was curious if it is just a R & R thing or if it needs to be bleed off or something? Is there a need to test it or just change it out? Sound like something that would cause these issues?
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Today I stopped at the post office to check my mail. I put the car in park and didn't shut off the engine - this is what I always do. When I returned a few moments later the car would not go into reverse (this was after releasing the parking brake) and the traction control symbol came on. The car would go into drive but that didn't work much as I was up against a hill (or almost against it). Shutting the car off and turning it on again solved the problem. The parking space was badly potholed; I'm assuming I had less than full contact on one wheel which caused the traction control to kick in which prevented reverse from engaging. And to be clear - it's not that it went into reverse but didn't go anywhere; reverse simply wouldn't engage (I did not try neutral),
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I have a 2001 7.3 that recently had a throttle position sensor issue I replaced the sensor 4 days ago and my truck ran like new. Until last night I shut my truck off and went to start it up a few seconds later and it would crank continually but wouldn't turn over so I went for the obvious and replaced the cam sensor but that didn't change anything. My scanner is throwing a waste gate fail code.
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I have a 2005 model, which I bought used a few months ago. I've loved most of the car, but the issue I struggle the most with is the fact that the back is really quite difficult to see out of. I find myself looking all around instead of just back, as I used to do with my 2005 Camry. I have the model without the backup camera, nav, or bluetooth (I don't know if thats base or not, because I still have Smart Key entry)
I was wondering if its possible to simply get a Toyota camera and install it with the MFD I have installed, or if I'd have to change the MFD as well. If I have to change the MFD, do I have to get a whole new wiring harness or simply switch the unit?
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Had a warning flash up last night that I've not seen before. Had just done a reasonably long run from an airport with 3 burly guys and their luggage. Just as I was pulling up to their hotel the car did a continuous beep and flashed up the warning "Turn Power Off" and flashed the yellow triangle. When I was stopped I was in Park and it was still beeping and flashing this warning.
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If the remote AC button is pressed in middle of winter does it turn on the heat and if yes, does it stay on long enough to actually get some heat going.
For example, if I press it while car is in the garage and it turns on (auto temp set to 70 when it's maybe only 25 in garage), if I go out in 5 or 10 minutes will it have actually heated things up a little? Hope so because that would be better than going into garage, starting it up and going back inside.
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Does the traction control turn off and stay off when you push the button? I read an owners manual and the way it is written makes me wonder. It makes it sound like the traction control reengages when you put the truck in reverse. Even when you had it turned off.
What are the facts? What is the real difference between an F350 SRW at 11,200 or 11,500 GVW and one with the 10,000 GVW. Is it just paperwork or do they change springs?
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I have an '08 prius, no Nav or JBL, with a little over 50k miles on it. My radio and MFD have recently stopped working. The MFD screen is off and unresponsive. The buttons around the MFD are lit, but pressing them doesn't do anything. Same for the radio, it's off and won't turn on - the buttons are lit and pressing them does nothing (except the button to eject the CD works). The steering wheel controls for the radio have no effect either.
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