Prius (2010-12) :: Persistent Squeak / Rattle Under Car?
Sep 28, 2015
Under your Prius, you have "guards" made of plastic and held in place by fasteners that unscrew off but press onto the bolt studs coming down from the metal. They basically shield the underside from debris but have holes to let water flow back out.
I had a persistent squeak for the last couple of weeks that was really annoying me. So, I set out to see what I could do about it. I thought I'd have to add an adhesive pad as a "bumper" between two parts, but when I tapped on the guard (reproducing the noise), I could tell there was a lot of pea gravel in there.
It took a while to get the first fastener off. They don't just "unscrew" that easily. The slightest pressure and you wind up pushing them back on. So, I had to work with two tools with one being a screwdriver gently prying it away from the panel so each turn made it come farther off the bolt. Once the first one was done, the rest were easy. Three in total on each side.
I got a cereal bowl full of pea gravel out of each guard. I was shocked that so much road debris was trapped up on there, but this stuff was big enough to not flow out with the water.
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My 14 C2 has this persistent rattle from the glove box hinge. It's that single plastic hinge extender for smoothly opening the glove box. I've taken it out and re-settled it into the box socket but the rattle is starting again when going over bumps... Is it just mine?
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I have a 2014 Prius v that I bought new in January 2014. I've had this persistent rattle which seemed like it was coming from the back seat behind the driver. I've taken the rear seat partially apart and glued and shimmed things to no avail. I've emptied the entire contents of the rear storage area and it still rattled on. Anyhow I've had this rattle for six months now. Turns out the noise is coming from under the car just ahead of the rear tire where some body type plastic which juts down about 2". This piece rattles when against the frame just ahead of where one would put a jack for lifting the car. I've temporarily stuffed some old paper napkins, which were handy, between the plastic piece and the frame. Noise is gone! I'll eventually remove the napkins and then load up the area with silicone. I'm doing both sides of the car just in case.
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I had a persistent soft rattle that sounded like it was coming from the dash area. Looked there, pulled the glove box off, taped a wire, and padded where the glove box meets the dash board, padded my right hand mud flap, and padded the glove box door upper RH corner, all to no good effect. Then just a few days ago I pushed the shotgun seat forward and reclined the seat back all the way.
The next day I looked under the seat. There are three yellow plastic electrical connectors that control the airbag and sensor. They are surprisingly rickety by design. Double side taping a 1.5 thick inch soft foam pad on top of the connectors, between them and the underside of the seat did the trick. I LOVE conquering rattles.
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Have had a persistent squeak in my passenger front door since buying it used 9 months sgo. Tried WD40, even have had dealer install 2 new hinges.. but still have the loud squeak (starts about 1/2 way opening the door).
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I have a persistent rattle in the glove box. Have tightened the 7 screws which improved it somewhat, but it's still there when I go over bumps.
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I got my Egg on 8/5/03. I have almost 10,000 miles on it, and other than an assorted rattle and a persistent shimmy in the wheel at certain speeds, despite rebalancing and rotation at 7,000 miles, I love it. It's quick, handles very well, and rides great. It's a topic of conversation everywhere, and while this is a matter of opinion and as I value mine I'll give it to y'all, it is one of the best looking SUVs made.
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Except there is a small problem, a squeak has started that is definitely based on my speed. It seems to go away a little when I turn.
At EV speeds it sounds like the plane wheels from the beginning of "Back in the USSR".
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What is the meaning of the persistent warning beeps that occur approximately every minute? The warning beeps began after the car was turned off following a 200 mile trip and are still occurring now. No warning light ever came on. How do I stop them?
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I guess it's more of an annoyance thing than anything else. When I drive I like to rest my knee on the this area where the window switch is. If I drive over a bump etc...this area squeaks. Is it worth having the dealer fix or will it just return.
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We have been tolerating a bad squeak in the driver's side front door upon opening, closing (any type of swinging of the door). Dealer tried lubricating it with no success. They told us that they would order a new hinge and "hope" that resolves it. I am a little worried about this. Would you trust your dealer to remove and re-install the door or just live with the squeak?
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I have a 2015 Passat TSI. Everything is wonderful except for a rattling noise I hear in the far right side of the dash. I notice it during hot weather when the car has been out. I guess it's because the plastics are expanding and some of the parts are rubbing together or something..? If this is the case, how can I identify where it is? What should I do? Could it be something else?
Here's where it is : [URL] ...
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A little back ground... Drove from NM to MN. Truck ran well averaged 13.5 mpg. hand calc'd (only .1 off of trip computer, I found it was typically a rounding difference). Shimmy and vibration from 70 to 80 mph, I am getting wheels rebalanced today. Rear AC blows very cold, front AC needs attention, coldish air blowing.
I have a squeak behind the bash on the passenger side. After about 300 miles of feeling in, under, over etc we couldn't find the squeak. After a bit we turned off the max AC and the squeak went away. Now it is a squeak with road movement but it only does it when the Max AC fan is running. When we got to Minnesota, we lifted the hood and I can move the whole AC unit and recreate the squeak/rattle. Is this movement usual? Would this be the cause of my front AC not blowing cold?
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I have had the right rear strut replaced three times in the last year and a half. The second time I also bought a new set of tires. It drove much smoother after that, however, it still has the following problem. When I'm driving on even a slightly bumpy street, it sounds like the right side of the backseat is loose. It rattles and squeaks. I've had the backseat removed each time I've replaced the strut and nothing is wrong there. Recently, I had some body damage repaired to the rear bumper and told the guy about this problem. He took out the backseat and found that with it removed and while being driven, it still made the same squeaky, rattly, loose sound and that the strut is still leaking. I have been avoiding bumpy roads and speed bumps.
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I have a 2005 Prius with 234K. Over the last week, the red triangle has been coming on along with "problem", followed by the high temp light. I originally checked coolant levels then took it into Toyota. Here was the diagnosis:
Found two low voltages codes stored
Replaced thermostat
Notes: Temp light on MDU does indicate malfunction. Low battery may have erased codes. Found the cooling system low on coolant. Pressure tested system (no leaks seen at this time), tech noted thermostat stuck closed. Replaced thermostat and refilled cooling system.
Now on the 45 min commute home the error did not re-occur, but it did happen the next day. I took it back into Toyota and this time there were no errors stored. I also told them that the heater wasn't blowing hot air but when they tested the heater it worked fine. They told me to document any time it happened to see if I could find a common cause.
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I am trying to diagnose a buzz/squeak/rattle coming from the driver door. Once I press on the door, the noise goes away, so I would like to take the interior trim and leather off the of the door to do some more troubleshooting. How to remove the interior portion of these doors?
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I'm having a trouble when accelerating at low rpm the engine begins to rattle. Tried removing the connector plug on the egr, to my surprise the rattle is gone but the engine light comes on saying that the EGR circuit is incomplete. Took it to the dealer and they diagnosed it to be the EGR valve opening but failing to close, so they instead proposed to fill in gas with a bottle of their injector cleaner. That made no difference, so tried replacing the EGR valve but again makes no difference. What could the culprit be?
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Based on Rattle from driver's side door.
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I have a 2011 corolla S with 32.5k on it, so my 3yr/36k warranty is running up in a few months. my car from day one (that I had it, at 17k)has had an annoying rattle in the headliner ahead of the sunroof, near the overhead lights. If I press up, even slightly on the lip of the headliner around the front of the sunroof cutout, it goes away. Dealer thinks its normal and says repairs wouldn't be covered under warranty.
The second is a new one, when I go over a bump in the road at highway speeds, there is a squeak coming from the center of the dashboard, at first I thought it was a strut, but after driving back and forth on the same stretch of road for half an hour, I found it to be coming from somewhere behind the radio. Dealer says, squeaks will happen as a car ages.
Do I need to take it to a new dealer (about an hour away) or can I fix this myself?
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I visited my dealer for something else, but I thought I'd take a chance and mentioned that my car (2010 III) had a passenger side rattle. He said that there was a TSB for that, and had a tech perform the fix. The rattle is gone. The TSB number is:
T-SB-0141-10
Upper/Lower Windshield/Rear Glass Tick Noise
The work consisted of the replacement of a couple of stoppers at the top of the windshield. I would not have guessed that this was the cause, but the rattle is gone (for two days, anyway).
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My 2010 IV has some kind of rattle/vibration in the upper glovebox. You can only hear it when taking off from a stop or accelerating at low speed.
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