Prius (2010-12) :: Occasional Shaking / Rattle At Cold Startups
Jul 10, 2016
Currently working on a friends 2011 Prius with roughly ~340,000 miles (!!!!!) that was used as a taxi, until now, he bought it from the taxi company and converted it his own daily.
I did a regular oil change on his Prius, and decided to change the spark plugs as at the time there was some sort of occasional shaking/rattle at cold startups. The shaking was gone after changing the spark plugs. This was all done back in March. Yesterday, he was driving, and all of a sudden, the knocking came back, a check engine light, and white like cloud smoke appear. Check Engine lights were P0300, P0301, P0303 (misfire cylinder). I told him to bring it over, I took a look, and his invertor engine coolant was all the way down (he told me he filled it up to top just two weeks ago). I originally thought maybe it was the ignition coils (for shaking), but the white smoke didn't make sense. So I purposely filled the coolant above the full line, and took it out to drive for about half a mile, and just as I suspected when I opened the hood, the coolant level decreased, at least by an inch.
I did not see any oil leaks, and the oil levels were just fine. The car just seems to shake/rattle at startup and when accelerating at low speeds (roughly 8 - 15 MPH) and than goes away, and drives normally. It still does blow off that white/cloud smoke when accelerating hard on the engine though. As for the smell of the smoke, I can't really tell, it is definitely not sweet, but it kind of smells foul/bad.
At this point, I am pretty sure this engine is gone, and the gasket/seal is blown.
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We have had a few mornings (in garage) where it would seem to not really id say a knock but maybe a clicking sound and it would quit right away. This morning that did not happen so i shut the car off and checked oil it was low.
Got under the car and can not see any leaking no oil on ground. So i had a QT i put in and that seems to quiet it after a few seconds.
I called local TOY dealer and they said its common for 2010 to use some oil and not much they can do. I thought what is a little it was at the end of the dipstick.
They said they can only fill it up and then have me come back in 1400 miles and see how much is used.
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Just noticed a rattle above my head when temp drops below 60, only on certain rough, washboard surfaces. I am running 44/42 PSI, so I know what I am getting into. I have no intention to fix the rattle other than cranking up the radio. I know when cars age, they eventually develop more rattles. Question is, when left alone, do rattles do any long term harm? As in loosing something else and create a new rattle, or get worse.
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I just replaced two bad sensors, (bank 2, both sensors). I went through three cold start ups, and the autozone codes still claim the sensors are rubbish.
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Just recently I've noticed my front end on my B6 3.6 4mo vibrates during the initial start-up in the morning. After the car warms up the vibrations go away. I had new brakes, oil change and tire rotated recently. I checked the cold start air pressure on the wheels (Nexen 235-40-18) and they are at 38 PSI, cold. All tires still have their balance weights also. I can feel the vibration in the steering wheel and seat. This vibration only started after I had the mentioned work done on my car.
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I have a 2006 Camry 2.4l and I'm hearing a loud noise coming from the idler pulley on cold startups when I put it in gear. I don't hear it when it's in park. The noise gets worse if you turn the a/c on. I have replaced the belt, idler pulley and top motor mount. I took the belt off and cranked it when cold and there was no noise even in gear. I can see the idler pulley moving and can confirm that's the noise but what it causing the belt to make it do that? Could I have bought a defective idler pulley?
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Shortly after taking my 2011 car in for an oil change, I'm getting an occasional message flashing on my naviscreen Telling me to insert a navi DVD.
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I have had a rattle that lasts 2 seconds on my 2012 Elantra for the since about 2 oil changes ago. The car has 152,000 miles on it and I've changed the oil regularly per the maintenance schedule, although not always with a Hyundai filter.
I'm strongly suspecting that this is the timing chain tensioner, but I could be wrong. Other than this, the car runs fine. I tried having the oil changed by the Hyundai dealer with the OEM oil filter and the problem appears to be a little worse. It first started to appear on cold start up after the car sat for >8 hrs or so. Now, it appears on cold start up >2 hrs. I noticed that the dealer put 5W20 in it.
I'm wondering if lower viscosity oil makes the problem worse during hot weather. It seems when the weather is colder it takes longer for it to appear. I'm wondering what my options are here. I really don't know how much $$ it is to go after the tensioner and how critical it is - the dealer said they do replace them and that doesn't always fix the problem though I'm not sure what he meant. I have read a few other posts about tensioners here, but I'm also wondering if this is an issue with the new engine.
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I have about 25K miles on tires that are expected to last for 60K miles. The tred is fine. But I have experienced occasional serious shaking of the car when going at high speeds. Not every time. And it has only happened when I am alone in the car (of course did not happen with mechanic in the car). My mechanic says I need an alignment and new tires, claiming that by being out of alignment the tires are ruined. Says it is heat and road conditions that cause the effect and there is steel belt damage within at least one of the tires. Curiously, the car does not do the classic out-of-alignment thing of pulling to one side. Not at all. Is it an alignment and tire issue or something else? The car has 175,000 miles on it and otherwise run great!
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I purchased a second hand 2000 Prius for my wife about a year ago and the car has been awesome. A few months ago she started experiencing a steering vibration only at low speed when cold and steering wheel turned sharply.
It got worse till you could feel a slight vibration when even going straight, I tried to scan the OBDII for faults but my scanner would not even work on the Prius.
I search online and bought a U380 OBDII scanner but since it would take a while to get to me I decided to disconnect the 12v to reset the computer (and fix my map lights while disconnected) when I reconnected the 12v the car started ran for about 10 seconds then cut out with the red triangle showing. I thought maybe I had done something wrong and the immobilizer had cut the engine, went inside to check my manual I had bought(cd version) on my computer and google search but found nothing.
Went out and disconnected the battery again and reconnected with same results. After some more searching went to car and it started right up no triangle. Here is the strange part, for the next several days the steering was great no shake at all and even the slight vibration was gone. Over the next few weeks it has slowly been coming back again but still not near as bad as it was, I finally got my scanner and scanned it but it shows no codes. I have not seen anywhere if successfully repaired this type of problem without replacing the whole steering rack but maybe I am missing something, anyway I have a couple of questions in my quest not to replace the rack.
1) Is it possible that it has the zero adjust error and my scanner is not reading it?
2) My repair manual(although it does not seem very good) shows resistors with some kind of contacts in with the torque sensors, is it possible these contacts just need cleaning?
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With colder weather upon us here in the States, many of us are experiencing ICE startup with turning the cabin heat on or trying to defrost the front windows. The seat heaters go a long way towards not having to turn on the cabin heat and triggering the ICE, but that doesn’t solve the window defrosting issue.
I was thinking today as we got the first of our seasonal rains here around the Sacramento area, and the ICE kicking in while defrosting the windows, it would be nice to have another non-ICE solution for this. I’m not sure if the technology yet exists, but if there was a defrosting system on the front and side windows similar to the defrosting grid of the rear windows, but invisible to the eye, this might do the trick.
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I have a Hyundai Elantra Limited 2012. A few months ago the Short Block was replaced because the engine was noisy. Now it started to do that noise, if I remember it's a little bit similar : Youtube video: [URL] .... Or search youtube for: Hyundai elantra 2012 engine rattle noise
It rattled very loud for 1 or 2 seconds on a cold start the other day too. Noise appears to be coming from the engine. It does it pretty much all the time, at idling, when I accelerate it accelerates too and when I slow down it kinds of do too slowly. Need another new short block or is it something else like the timing chain or a bearing?
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I've noticed this of late. An irritating rattle from the driver's side door, but the key is that it only happens when the temps are cool. If the car is warm/hot due to being out in the sun, there is no rattle. This tells me it's something resolved when heat makes parts expand, but if I can stick something in that will stop the rattle altogether, I'd prefer to fix it.
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From day one my 2012 Prius 3 has had a shake that starts at 63mph and goes away at 69mph. Sometimes it's worse then others. I can feel it in the steering wheel and the floor broards. I took it back to the dealer and they said they felt it but couldn't find anything wrong. They actually put new wheels and tires on it! It seemed alright for while but I noticed it again the other day, I don't drive that speed that often. I'm either below or above it but the other day I got caught in traffic doing 65 and noticed it right away. I made a new appt this next week at the dealer again. It's not real bad just more annoying then anything. I searched on here but couldn't find anything.
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My 2010 Prius engine shakes/vibrates when the engine is showing between 50-75 MPG on the gauge/meter on the dashboard. There is no vibration when coasting (100 MPG on the gauge/meter on dashboard) or when I am accelerating pretty modestly. Only when accelerating very softly. It started a month or so after I had my spark plugs replaced at 133K miles last June 2015. It has gotten progressively worse. It is especially noticeable once the engine is warm or the outside temperature is warm. During the winter months the vibration was there slightly, but not nearly as noticeable as it is becoming now that warmer weather is here.
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The past week I drove the 1800miles. This afternoon I went out, pushed power button, get out and clean windshield off and ICE turns on with this clunk clunk noise, shook the car like a sob too. Checked oil and it showed a clear metallic gray/Black tint with end the light tan oil.
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I have a 2010 prius and today when i was driving the car it started shaking every time I brake and after a little bit. I realized that the car was having trouble shifting from battery to engine and engine to battery and once the battery runs out the car shuts off and when I start it again it starts in engine mode and charges the battery..
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I've noticed that when accelerating from a stop and turning onto an adjacent street to the left or right, there seems to be stuttering or shaking coming from the engine. I'm usually in ECO and only 1/3 of the way into the "engine half" zone on the HSI. It's not consistent but has become a bit of an annoyance.
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So at 19+K I notice the car has tire noise and shakes. Take car in for 20000 mile service and the dealer tells me I have cupped tires. They say the car must be out of alignment to get cupped tires. I think not because the car goes straight down the road. They have nothing to offer in regards to getting new tires free or adjustment on new. I should have pushed hard for a resolution to the problem right then and there but did not. I rack up miles fast so I put up with the problem and at 37000 have the dealer put on new tires and check the alignment. Alignment was in specs but not to complete center. So I have them align the car.
On the way home I notice I still have a shake, felt in the floor and the passenger side head rest shakes back and forth. They rebalance the tires and tell me all fixed. I drive off only to feel the same shake.
I go back and insist on talking with the service manager. Take him for a ride and he can't feel the problem and says all he feels is the normal Prius road roughness. He says if I leave the car they will check it out further the next day. I tell him maybe the reason my first set of tires went bad is due to the shake. Look further than the tires! Next day when I pick up the car they tell me they road forced balance the tires and let air out of the tires to soften the ride.
Of course the car still shakes. I take the car to a different dealer and tell them I need the car completely checked out and not to focus just on the tires. They tell me the tires where way under inflated and out of balance, one even by one and a half ounce. They tell me all is fine. I drive off and still it shakes. Go back and take the tech for a ride. He can't feel the problem.
So got a shake in the floor that is best felt at between 65 -72 miles per hour? How do I correct this? If this is normal for a Prius why did I not feel it for the first 19000 miles? I say it must be drive train related but I can't seem to get people to not focus on the tires. Car is 15 months old and I closing in on 40,000.
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I got in, stepped on the brake pedal and press the power button. Then the Prius ICE started, it started clanging and violently shaking the entire car. The clanging was sounded like metal on metal or something, it was loud and it was like the engine was seizing up. I stepped outside and the whole front end was buckling up and down. From my perspective, it seemed like the car wanted to lurch forward if I didn't have the parking brake engaged. I had Park engaged and also the parking brake on. I thought it would go away but it persisted. I turned off the car and immediately restarted. When the ICE started the 2nd time it felt a bit rough but finally the clanging noise went away. I didn't have time to look on my scanguage for any codes during the event. Did this cause any permanent damage?
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I have a Prius III 2011. I've had it for 10,000 miles and have had no problems at all. Yesterday, when I started the car, it made a loud rumbling and the engine shook, when it transitioned from the electric motor to the gas engine.
It did that several times when I restarted and then went away. The problem happened on the transition each time. Electric motor came on perfectly and then ten seconds later it was like an earth quake under the hood.
My dad watched the engine and said that it shook really hard. At first he thought it might be a fan belt but then he said it seemed more like water or something may have gotten into the gas tank and it was choking...
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