Prius (2010-12) :: Not Starting By Depressing Brake And Hitting Power Button
Jul 25, 2013
So this has already happened to me a 2nd time so far.
I depress brakes and hit the power button once when I first drive it in the morning after the Prius has been sitting for a while.
Instead of the power LED turning green, it turns red/amber, and the ready light does not show up blinking or come on at all. To me it almost appears to be in IG-ON mode.
I hit the power button again (can't remember if my foot was on the brake) and all the accessories shut down/car shuts down and I see the shifter indicator on the screen.
I then try to start again by depressing brake and hitting power button once. Now everything starts up fine and the ready symbol is there.
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Every time when lightly depressing the brake pedal there is a single click sound.
It doesn't not happen when releasing the pedal just when depressing it. It happens in all circumstances (i.e. with the car off, car on, stopped, moving, etc).
I thought it corresponded to the tail lights or the start button light because it happens right around when those lights turn on, but I was able to make it click without having either of those lights come on by depressing the pedal super slow.
I can't tell if its inside the car near the pedal or under the hood near the firewall... But it's right around that area. It seems louder at times then other times...usually quieter when car is moving (probably just drowned out by road noise)
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So my several month old Prius II has developed a metal on metal sound when I'm hitting various road bumps.. it's a "clack" sound emanating from my wheel well area that is heard when the windows are down.. I've taken it in twice and the first time they couldn't figure it out... second time they said they drove mine and a brand new Prius which also has the same sound and said it was the brake calipers. Funny thing is, I never heard this noise until after about 2k miles on my car.. They also would NOT disable my reverse beep sound or seat belt beep saying it was a safety feature and shouldn't be disabled.
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In my manual on page 5-25, it says:
A click sound may be heard in the engine compartment when the vehicle begins to move after the engine is started. These conditions are normal and
indicate that the anti-lock brake system is functioning properly.
Every time I first hit 20 mph after starting my car, I hear what sounds like an aluminum pop/soda can getting crushed. It does not sound like a 'click', it's much more harsh.
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Sometimes when I hit the start button it takes a couple of minutes for the AC to start blowing air. I even tried stopping and shutting off and restarting but it still took a few minutes to start blowing. It doesn't do this all the time just every now and then.
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I have a 2010 Prius Hybrid and lately, on an intermittent basis, I will press the brake pedal and push the start button and the dashboard lights up as normal but when I go to put it in gear nothing happens. The last time it happened the fan was running and I couldn't turn it off. It's like the car is all set to go but all the interior controls don't function. I then shut it off and restart it and everything works.
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2005 Prius, 50K. Newly purchased two weeks ago. Last night, driving into my garage with the ICE off, noticed a noticeable electric or electronic-sounding hum from the engine compartment. With the hood up and looking toward the engine from the front of the car, noise comes from the right side of the engine compartment, to the right of the inverter cover.
The noise, a loud hum, appears when pressing the Power button and the brake pedal. It also appears when pressing the Power button twice without pressing the brake pedal. When starting up the car, the hum lowers in pitch significantly (though not in volume) as soon as the Park button is pressed.
When I bought the car, I brought it in to the dealership for a complete checkup. They replaced the inverter coolant pump under the recall notice. Don't know if that's significant. I opened the coolant reservoir cap last night with the motor on, and noticed movement inside, so it appears to be working fine.
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My Pris 2010 would not start this morning. My wife tried to start the car this morning and it would not start. All the symbols on the display light up and would not go. She then tries to turn off the car, but the Triangle symbol with the exclamation mark within it lights up. The Start button light is red and the Park button flashes green. Added to that is the constant beep that you hear when you try to close the door with the keys in the car. I cannot even turn the steering wheel. I had to get it towed to the Toyota dealer and am was told that i would hear back tomorrow.
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I have a 2013 Prius Three. If I drive somewhere (engine completely warm) and stop, like at a store, come back 5-10 mins later, hit the power button, sometimes the ICE will start and immediately shut off, like within 1 second. It can't be the warm up cycle as the ICE is at normal operating temperature. I guess it is not a issue, as one of the 20 computers is doing this and there are no lights(like cel).
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Just wondering if I should be concerned. It doesn't happen every time, but it sounds like grinding of a gear or something like that. I made a video .....
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My 2011 Prius II hasn't had any issue for the 3 years I've had it until two days ago when the car simply wouldn't turn on. The battery would "whirl" when I would press on the brakes but when I pushed to power button nothing would happen and the Ready light would never come on. The power button didn't have any color (orange/green). The batteries were charged and would spark when cables were connected to them.
I tried it again about an hour later and it worked fine. I drove it for a couple minutes and parked it hoping that it was a fluke. Another hour later I tried to start the car and the same problem as earlier happened. I decided to tow it to the nearest Toyota dealership to get it examined/fixed, but after they've had it for 2 days now they cannot get the car to reproduce the same symptoms.
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This started about 2 months ago. About 10% of the time when I depress the brake and press the Power button, all the dash lights come on except the Ready light (it acts as if I pressed the Power button twice without my foot on the brake). When I depress the brake a second time and press Power button again, the Ready light will still NOT come on. I have to press Power button with foot off the brake to shut off the dash lights (the car is effectively off) and then when I press Power button with foot on brake a second time, the Ready light will come on. I effectively have to try to start the car twice. I also noticed that the interior lights are dimmer when I open the driver's door until it goes through it's normal noisy gyration (something to do with the brakes?). I'm thinking that the 12-volt battery is starting to fail. Does my Gen III 2010 Prius have a diagnostic tool to check the battery?
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THE PROBLEM: Our Prius 12V aux battery died after my wife left the light on inside the car and instead of buying a new battery, we decided to try jump starting it. My wife tried jump starting our Prius with the neighbors pickup truck and even though I wasn't physically there to witness it, I'm pretty sure that the polarity got swapped during the process. It wouldn't start afterwards, so we went out and bought a brand new 12V aux battery. The prius still will not start. No electric components seem to work (door locks, back brake lights, windows, radio don't work). The dash only shows the orange exclamation mark and the check engine light, nothing else. The power button blinks orange, never goes green.
TROUBLESHOOTING that I've tried:
1. Checked the big 120A fuse right on the positive + terminal. Visibly looked good.
2. Checked all the fuses by the drivers left knee. All tested good with resistance + visible checks.
3. Checked all the fuses in the fusebox under the hood. All tested good EXCEPT the big relay integration fuse under the white plastic cover. It was definitely blown.
4. Replaced the relay integration, still no luck, same exact symptoms.
5. Tried force starting the car in emergency mode by holding the brake and power button down for 15+ secs. The engine starts, but the dash is still dead showing just the check engine light and orange exclamation mark. Can not shift gears or drive.
6. Tried slow charging the NEW battery to get the voltage higher, still no luck. It's testing about 13V with everything off.
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Just noticed this the other day, when depressing my GF's 2011 Accent's brake pedal it made a low hissing sound, it would go away when you took your foot off the pedal, you would never hear this with the radio on, but it was enough to make me think it could be a concern.
Drove the car and it didn't affect the brake permormance, but the longer this goes, I can't imagine this being a good thing.
Car is 3 years old, and has 80-20 city/hwy driving under it.
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I have a 2011 4 door and I drive it VERY LITTLE... I have a company truck so the car sits most of the time but when I get in it to drive on the weekends or whatever, sometimes when I hit the brakes it feels like they stick while depressing the pedal. Its nothing unsafe feeling just annoying and it forces me to kinda slam on the brakes. it seems to go away after I drive it a while, I have been attributing it to sitting so much but wanted to double check.
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At 65k miles my wheels began to squeal off and on when NOT depressing the brake. Does not happen all the time. I had a mechanic look at it and tell me everything was ok other than worn brake pads and they should be replaced "soon". I assume the squeal was the brake pad warning noise. My question is with mostly highway driving and not actual problems stopping, grinding etc...How long do I have before I need to replace them? Now? 3k miles? 5k miles? How soon?
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On my way into work this morning I had one of those everybody needs to stop NOW moments. Hit the brakes hard, really hard with wheels chirping and all, after i got mostly slowed down the pedal gave way and went to the floor. I let up and pushed again and they were fine, but at that point I didn't need to hit them that hard again. The rest of the way in they worked fine braking normally, and before hand as well.
I'm thinking the master cylinder is going bad. Any tips on diagnosing for sure?
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I had something happened the other day that I have never experienced in any of my Prius' before, I was driving along coming up to a stop lite and the lite changed I tried to make a quick stop and stomped on the brake pedal and pedal got real hard and no stopping! car did not even slow down, luckily no cars where sitting at lite.
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I have a 2010 Santa Fe w/ ~25,000km. Yesterday, I noticed that after depressing the brake pedal (while driving) i hear a wheezing noise and then a click right before i come to a complete stop. When i am stationary, and i depress the break pedal, i hear the clicking noise but no wheezing sound.
I just took it into service today and even drove around the lot with one of the service techs and he says its normal. That the clicking noise is coming from the shifter release. I don't believe i heard this sound when i bought it, nor any other time till yesterday. The sound is driving me crazy! This cant be normal .... can it?
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Looking for a fix for the annoying squeaking noise often happening when depressing the brake pedal?
Dealer "bled" the brake actuator...did not work, said I need new actuators for 2.5k.... 2007 LS 460L ....
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96 Aerostar Cargo 6 cyln. Auto.
There is a noise coming from what sounds like the rear passenger side wheel. Also, when you put it in drive and release your foot from the brake the van stays still. You have to push the gas to get it moving, like the brake is holding it. If you are going very slow on a flat surface the van will eventually stop instead of idling forward.
I have removed the wheel, it does turn hard. Pulled the drum (was very hard to remove). Had to move adjuster to remove drum. Cleaned inside, inspected the brake shoes, put drum back on, etc. I am pretty sure that brake is causing resistance. How to resolve it?
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