Prius (2010-12) :: No Regen Braking While HV Battery Overheats?
Jul 31, 2015
I had my scangauge installed at the end of Oct 2014 so I haven't had the chance to use it in the summer. I have also done the the Intelligent Power Module (IPM) recall about 2 months ago. I have never noticed this issue before the hot weather.
When the weather gets hot, the regen gradually lowers the recovery amp. Normally it can regen at over -90 amps. As weather gets hot, it limits the regen to about -65 amps max. When it gets hotter, the regen lowers down to -35 amps max. I can feel the car not slowing down as quick as at -90 plus amps. When the car has been sitting under the 100f+ for a couple of hours, regen is completely at idle (less than -20Amps.) Mechanical brakes take over. The car feels the same as -30amp regen, HSI shows it is regen braking. However, scangauge shows idle regen (less than -20Amp) and the slowing down is done by mechanical brakes.
View 1 Replies
Advertisement
The topic is as much as I can say to what my car's problem is.
2010 Prius II with 50k miles now.
View 19 Replies
I have noticed recently that I seem to be getting less regen braking force than I used to. Particularly noticeable at higher speeds at over 45MPH or 70 KMPH. The regen seems to have very little effect now until I have slowed down. I seem to have to use much more brake than I remember recently. And by the way the battery in not nearly fully charged....Regen does come on but seems to have very little slowing power....
View 13 Replies
Prius III -- I do all in-town driving with display in HSI mode. When braking, I have naively assumed that the length of the CHG bar corresponds with regen braking capacity -- fill the bar and you're starting to add friction brake. So when stopping distances permit, I try to brake gradually enough to keep a bit of space past the end of the CHG bar -- means I'm playing with brake pressure the whole length of a typical freeway exit ramp.
View 7 Replies
My 2007 with 58k on it started making the sound of a 'ratchet clankety clank' about at 56k while lightly braking with regen around 8-13 mph (slow and quiet enough to hear it best) and while turning slightly or more to the right. If I'm on a hill and can maintain the conditions, the sound will continue.
I've spent many a night searching here and elsewhere, learned a lot about strut and cv noises etc. At 57k I took it to a dealer who has a very nice service dept and they rode with me, agreed that they heard it, checked out the cv by hand (my first suspicion) and said all felt fine, that it was recorded at least (my concern being near 60k, std warranty).
View 19 Replies
This morning I noticed a strong burning odor, like burning wax. It only seems to occur on high current regen events (eg coming off the freeway). It also happens to be raining, although I'm not sure if that's part of the issue or just a coincidence.
View 5 Replies
I've been noticing that my battery is almost always fully charged or close to it. Then I noticed that when I 'should' be getting assist from the MG2 and not charging the battery, i'm not getting the assist I would assume I should be getting. Seems like most of the energy is getting put back into the battery instead of assisting the MG2
Notice how the arrow is going to the battery from the MG2 (ELECMOTR) and not vice versa. This is majority of the time. Getting less of this also. hince - MPGs are down also.
View 19 Replies
Curiosity question. I've noticed that on a downhill of a couple miles, especially in "braking" mode or with the cruise control on, the motor/generator and engine are used to keep the speed down and the battery gets charged to the very top quite quickly. That's good!
On a really long downhill, will the motor/generator still be used for braking and the excess electricity discarded to keep from overcharging the battery?
View 8 Replies
Just letting Gen III drivers know that using an OBDII splitter and two gauges can sometimes cause a loss of regen braking and traction assist accompanied by various yellow lights on the dash. It can be restored by switching the vehicle off, unplug the OBDII splitter and restarting the car. This has happened to me on three seperate occasions.
View 8 Replies
I have a 2007 Prius and the red triangle showed up. It has less than 50,000 miles. I noticed that almost right after I start it up the hybrid battery fan kicks on. This leads me to believe that maybe one or more cells in the hybrid battery are overheating due to charging problems. Is there a way I can check this out without going to the dealer?
View 3 Replies
Right now my husband and I are driving from San Luis Obispo Ca to LA and back in a day. We noticed right before the grape vine on the I5 that the engine was really working, even on flat ground. Looked at the battery and it was purple. We have been driving for about 2 hours averaging about 70mph on mostly flat land. The battery finally charged itself on the big downhill of the grapevine (I5) but we're noticing we're running right through it again unless we start to break more. So, it's not getting any recharge during driving, just breaking. Can it be the generator? What causes this?
View 5 Replies
The other day I was driving down my street which is a decent grade (you have to curb your tires when parking) ... in normal drive mode at about 20mph with my foot off the accelerator pedal, I get about 10amps of charging as I coast down the hill. (I was in ECO mode, ICE fully warmed up)
For no reason I put the car into B without doing anything else and suddenly I'm getting about 25+ amps of regen. Going back to D instantly put it back to 10 amps.
I haven't explored this option fully, but it seems like the trick is to use B only once ICE is off under 43mph and you are slowing down. This will give you a nice regen boost (and slow you faster) without the brake lights being on. Just go back to D before you start driving again.
Up until this point I found B mode mostly useless.....
View 17 Replies
I’ve searched for an answer to my question but have not found it yet.
View 19 Replies
Bought a used 2002 Prius in December of last year. When I got it home the hybrid system warning light and the check engine light came on, but after reading through priuschat for a few hours I thought to take a look at the engine air filter, which turned out to be utterly filthy. Replaced it and the car ran fantastically for the next 8 months, which was plenty of time for me to fall utterly in love with how quiet it is and how smooth a ride it is.
The carfax report for the car showed that its battery was replaced shortly before I bought it and that its transmission fluid was changed approximately 20k miles before that, so I thought (apparently mistakenly) that I didn't have to worry too much about either.
During these 8 months the car saw my regular mechanic for oil changes twice, had a bad CV axle replaced and I was told the serpentine belt was glazing and may need to be replaced with the next oil change, but neither I nor my regular mechanic noticed any other issues.
View 17 Replies
If my traction battery has plenty of 'juice' in it, and my 12v battery is dead....is there any way to 'jump' the 12 volt battery with the traction battery to get the car started?
View 19 Replies
[URL] ....
The problem with my truck is not that its regen'ing too often, the problem is that its STUCK in regen cycle. For the past 4-5 days my truck has been going into regen about 1-2 min after i start driving it, every single time i start her up. If i start my truck in the morning and let it warm up for a few min, i come out and my truck is idling higher then normal and has an increased exhaust smell, but when i aply the brake the idle goes back to normal. Then i start driving up the street and BAM "cleaning exhaust filter" message comes up and the and immediately the sound of the exhaust and induction changes and it sounds like sputtering/knocking.
Sometimes the the engine will flutter in decel or shutdown. HORRIBLE gas mileage, Reduced engine response and power, and white smoke is cooler temps. Basically all of the normal signs of a regen cycle, am i wrong? Im pretty sure its either a dpf sensor or possibly something wrong with the DPF? I haven't had one problem with my 2010 besides an egr valve and she has 167k miles and is completely stock and im very happy with my truck! 2010 6.4L
View 2 Replies
Several weeks ago, my wife drove our Outback for 10 minutes, turned the car off, then turned it back on after 10 minutes. After 15 minutes of its being on the second time and the car being in a car line, the red temperature indicator blinked, then went solid. She pulled over to let it cool, then put coolant in the overflow reservoir when she got home. The reservoir was nearly empty. The very next day, the exact same thing happened, in the exact same sequence - 10 minutes on, 10 off, 15 minutes on in a car line, then indicator came on again.
I took it to a mechanic who could not reproduce the issue after letting it run for four hours. He replaced the fuses and told us to bring him the car when the problem recurred. Reservoir tank is full, no blockage in line from radiator to overflow tank.
The next day, for a third time, the car overheated in the pickup line. We brought it in the following day. The mechanic finally was able to reproduce the issue. He said that both fans (a subi outback has two) needed to be replaced, as they were drawing a tremendous amount. He advised that I take it to subaru to find out if there was anything they could do re: warranty.
I took it to subaru, who said that the fans are not now under warranty (we have 65k on the car). I decided to have them replace the fans anyway, so I asked them for a diagnosis. However, after two days in the shop, they were unable to reproduce the problem. They ran the car in idle, they tried to recreate the stop-and-go/standstill environment of a carline, but no luck. They said that the fans were drawing the expected amount and that they would need recreate in order to diagnose.
I have two questions:
1) Should I replace the fans myself? I can either take the car back to the first mechanic and have him replace the fans or I can do it myself. I can do basic jobs like oil changes, replacing serpentine belts, but I'm not sure what nuances are involved with replacing anything electrical.
2) Most importantly: What would cause both fans in a relatively young subi to spike their amperage draw intermittently? I guess it's possible that i just got two bad fans, but that doesn't seem to be a common problem with this model. So, I want to make sure that this issue is not indicative of some other underlying problem.
View 2 Replies
I hit a bump while i was braking and the car felt like it was released from brakes while i still had my foot pressed on the pedal. I tried again on the same bump and it did it again.
View 5 Replies
Brought mine to the dealership they can't find the knocking noise. I asked the technician to Test drove it but still can't find the problem. Technician on the passenger side and we test drove it. He was able to hear it, but can't confirm if its coming from the pads or rotors. Its pretty anoying when driving at night when the roads are quiet. You can hear it even with windows close.
View 4 Replies
If the hydraulic brakes go out what is the best procedure to brake in a Prius? No, I don't envision this happening just a "what if"?
View 18 Replies
I have a 2010 Prius that I've owned for a little over 2 years. I know basically nothing about auto mechanics. When i purchased the Prius, I was told by the salesperson to use engine braking "B" as often as possible to extend the life of my brakes.
Although I don't live in a mountaineous region, I have found engine braking to be useful in the snow, in the occassional steep hill i come across, and also in my daily commute where travel is at 55 MPH with a stop light every half mile or so.
View 19 Replies
