Prius (2010-12) :: No Heat / Air Flow Going To The Feet
Jan 30, 2015
This is the first winter with my 2012 Prius, and I've been suspicious of the climate controls. Today, my passenger complained that there was not heat going the to feet. I've always worn insulated shoes/pants so I didn't really notice before.
I jacked up my fan, increased the temperature and changed the aim to the feet/knees only. I then put my hand to where the gas pedal is. I couldn't feel any air flow at the feet. There was still plenty of air coming out of the upper side vents that blows towards your chest. The upper vent got hot, but not the feet.
Why there's no/little airflow to the feet? I'm thinking of checking my carbon filter but it is too cold be pulling out parts. I'm now suspicious if my car's air direction function works properly.
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When I run the heater on high to be directed through the dash and foot areas here in Wisconsin, I receive wonderful heat from the dash, but ice-cold air to the feet. What is going on? Do I have a clogged heater core or line? Or could this be an easy fix I could do myself?
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I took my Prius Two to its first car wash today, afterwards, the air flow from the vents became minimal, almost non-existent. How could this be? The car is barely two months old. Prior to the car wash, I had the AC and air blasting to the highest, I didn't change any fan settings, and now there's barely any air coming out. I can hear the fans churning and running, but there's no air!!! Do I take it to the dealer?
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What are the selection input for these? I have seen them go back and forward on its own. I have also been told that there is an in-cabin humidity sensor but have seen no documentation on it. Does that switch between fresh and recirculate?
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I know the owners manual says 87 octane or higher. I'm only on my third tank of gas but yesterday I think I heard some "pinging" when I needed to catch up with the traffic flow. So far I have been using 87 octane from Raleys Aisle One. (Sacramento area) I think it's a generic gas but not sure where it comes from.....
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The air flow with ac and heat is low on my ford ranger. I can hear the blower change speeds, but on high, it barely comes out. The temp is fine and achanges from cold to hot like it should. i had the ac checked out by a shop that that does free checks - no problems with lines or compressor. I replaced the blower motor. The air changes from defrost to floor and all the positions fine, but the air flow out all the vents just isn't what it should be. It was working fine the first couple of days. I've read about the blend door motor, but I haven't read about people having this exact problem. I am almost to the point of bringing is to the dealer, but would rather fix it myself.
2007 Ford Ranger ... 6 cyl. 3.0 L ...
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My 02 Mountaineer doesn't have any air flow volume out of the heat, defrost, or a/c vents. The temp will change from hot to cold and the air direction will also change from floor, dash, windshield, etc. The a/c recirculation door also seems to be working. The fan sounds as it is running very fast, just not putting out any volume. What should I look for?
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I have a 2003 F250 Super Duty 5.4L V8 with no heat. It wasn't missing, running funny or blowing white smoke out of the tailpipe and there were no coolant leaks nor did it overheat. Thermostat has been replaced twice, heater core flushed twice, water pump replaced, fan clutch replaced and blend door works...Cabin airflow gets colder when turned from hot to cold. This thing is sitting in my driveway and I am about to push it over a cliff. Did I mention it only has 56,000 miles on it?
Coolant was drained to replace water pump and flush heater core (again, water ran through in both directions with no stoppage). 3 gallons of undilluted antifreeze was put into the overflow bottle to be topped off with water...the coolant went in and stopped. Engine was started to force coolant from bottle...coolant backed up into the bottle and out the top. Heater core inlet hose is hot and outlet hose not very warm if at all. Upper radiator hose is soft. Didn't check lower radiator hose as I was a bit peeved and slammed the hood closed and called it a night. I have been throwing money at this thing that I do not have and am at my wits end with it.
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2010 F150 5.4V8... At altitudes 9000 ft and above the engine RPM rises and drops while at idle and while driving slow. It also burns more gas.
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tried to set temp at 22c to 24c, outside temp was 18c, but no heat, nor warm air came out from the vent. cold air all the way (at least 30 minutes drive).
set it to 30c and higher, then I can feel the hot air.
i just found out from here the prius's heater performance is not good. but that bad?
is it normal or should i bring it back to toyota to look at it?
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I bought my prius IV brand new in December, and its my first one. One thing i've noticed that's different, but when I have my AC on auto (I've preferred using Auto since my last car..) I notice when its cold out, it only blows to my feet, then eventually maybe after driving for about 45 minutes or so it will eventually switch to feet and air. Is this normal? Why it goes to just feet only for so long?
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This can be heard at low speed. two to three bars on the blower speed indicator. It sound like running water. It is not the air conditioner when the compressor in on.
I can not listen to the radio all the time..... when it is peace time, radio is turned off. It sounds like the bearing is going. Had it looked at and was told that it is normal. The DC motor is suppose to be quiet?
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My 2010 with 130,000 miles has no heat. I had it flushed at the dealer and recall work done last June as part of the maintenance sched and did not try to use the heat until a few weeks ago. I have taken it to the dealer twice. They have in order bled the coolant system, replaced the coolant and then changed the thermostat at the second visit. The catch is that each time they have done this the heat returns and by the next day or so the heat is gone--It has not been very cold yet so we have not needed to use the heat every day. I am wondering if the system is hard to bleed?
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Started my '07 this morning and after about 10 feet of driving forward all these lights came on. It also said PROBLEM across the digital AC/Consumption display before Problem disappeared and that right box showed up in the top left corner. The giant red ! triangle is solid, NOT flashing.
May not be related at all, but last night when I started my car to come home from work the gas pedal felt non-responsive as if it was trying to use battery power but it wasn't there. I turned the car off, back on, let it idle for 30 seconds before driving and I drove home without a problem.
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Here in the Midwest its starting to get cold, very cold.... so the heat is getting cranked. Why doesn't Auto mode leave it on the heat setting when I leave and come back? It reverts it back to A/C.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Prius. I have had it for a little over a year. A couple weeks ago I noticed that the paint on the front fender had "bubbled up" in a strip approximately 8 inches long. It felt like the fender was cracked underneath it. I took the car in to the dealership. Their service department took off the fender and said that it was warped, not broken. They said it was due to some kind of heat damage that it had been exposed to. Of course, they said it wasn't due to any malfunctioning of the car. They say the car must have been "exposed" to some kind of heat source. In other words, it is all my fault and they are not going to fix it under the warranty! I have not exposed it to any kind of heat, except sun light!
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Water won't flow through lines for the heat to reach the back of the van. Have checked everything that could be blocking the water flow.
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Cleaning the MAF on the GX460? I have seen videos on youtube but the MAF positioning on the GX460 is a little hard to get to. I am wanting to clean the MAF because I am still experiencing some sluggishness. The vehicle's response had improved after a fuel induction and a spark plug change but it is still sluggish when compared to other GX's I have test drove. It is sort of inconsistent. Sometimes, it drives super smooth and the gears quickly shift other times the gears take forever to upshift and downshift.
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2010 camry 4 cylinder, Heater/ac air flow control not working. Only blows air to defroster which it has no temp control.
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I just get my water inverter pump changed yesterday and what I have noticed now every time I power off the car, I can hear water flow. I did not hear this kind of sound before. What could be the problems with my car now?
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I have read all the posts pertaining to this code, replaced my coolant flow valve, bled all the air out of the coolant system and still am getting the cel with the 1121 code.
I have tried setting multiple coolant flow valve positions, checked all wiring in harness, coolant level is full in rad and reservoir, checked temp sensor at bottom of storage tank, checked pump operation at top of tank to attempt to clear this code to no avail.
Is there a default position the valve is to be in before cold start up?
Is there anything else that can trigger this code? What am I missing?
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