Error messages on my dash were originally the triangle exclamation and - p lock malfunction when parking , park in a flat place and apply parking brake securely ....
View 14 RepliesRecently, I've been having issues with my door locks. When exiting the car, and pressing the door lock on the outside handle, I would here the door lock solenoid fire once, then open, and the door would not lock. Same thing would happen when I used the FOB. The door would not lock. On occasion, I would get the door to lock, and stay locked by using the door lock inside the car when the door was open.
On the occasions when I did get the door locked, I then had issues unlocking. If I approached the drivers door to unlock the door, the car would just keep repeatedly beeping, and would not unlock the drivers door. But, the back door would unlock, so I could reach in, and open the drivers door from the back.
Twice this week I have received the Yellow Triangle alarm with the message Key Battery Low. This is the first time I have seen this alarm since I bought the car in August 2009.
I changed the battery the first time after 3 years based on recommendations from the forum. This time the batteries lasted just over 2 years.
I tested the batteries on both Key Fobs and they were both in the 2.9V range. The new batteries tested at 3.3V which is their rating. So ~2.9V must be the low alarm setpoint.
Today after running several errands, I stopped by the local CarWash to rinse the car. Same as always, parking brake off, shift into neutral and away we go. Half way threw she starts beeping, I see the yellow triangle and to the right a boxed message "LOW TRACTION BATTERY SHIFT INTO P POSITION". There was a sudden rush of anxiety because I could not shift while being conveyor-ed threw the wash. As soon as I was pushed out and the light turned green, I shifted into drive to exit. The warning and box cleared instantly.
I pulled into parking, shifted into P, and noticed the battery indicator had only 1 bar. Did a quick walk around of the car and got back on the road thinking, head directly the Dealership. Before I got to the freeway I was back up 4 bars and climbing. Continued on the freeway and within 2 exits all looked normal. As it is Saturday and the Dealership was 1 hour from closing, I proceeded home. Later we went to dinner and an event, then came home. All is still normal. Owners Manual only states to follow the command on page 515.
I know this is a long story and was intentional to starve off multiple questions. The only thing I can think is that the air conditioner, radio and headlights were on prior to, while waiting my turn for wash (park-roll-park-roll...) and up to the point of the warning (tuned off all at that point) while in the tunnel. However this is normal for me. Will monitor the battery indicator more closely for a while. I'm sure this event latched in a computer somewhere, so will run by the Dealer if anything else acts up again. A/C and radio and lights are turned off now while in "neutral", for whatever reason. The car is a 2010 II and only 27600 miles. Was not a pleasant feeling.
We purchased a used 2012 a couple of months ago and have had no issues with it. A few weeks ago it was in an accident and mostly sat at the body shop for the next two weeks. Got it back a week ago and seemed to work fine for commuting for the next week. Then let it sit for two days and then the next day drove it for a few short trips over a couple of hours. Everything seemed fine. Next morning it won't start. "P lock malfunction when parking, park in flat place and apply parking brake securely. Shift to P position and push power switch to turn off". Cannot shift into D; can shift into N; pushing P button doesn't illuminate the LED on the button or move it out of N.
Searching this error indicates often caused by failing 12V battery, and I can see that might be the problem given the age and the abuse the battery has taken the last few weeks. The battery reads 11.84V when car is off and 11.45V when "on" showing the error. I can replace the 12V battery. Is there some other simple diagnostic I can do?
Alternate explanations are, something got buggered in the accident that didn't surface until now or the groundhog we shooed out from under the car right before it wouldn't start was chewing on something.
I have a 2008 Prius. I drove it around in Florida for a few days and everything ran great, but about 4 hours into the trip back to Minnesota, the red ! triangle light came on with a message on the display screen. It said "There is a problem with the transmission "P" lock mechanism Park your your car on a flat surface and fully apply the parking brake." This happened as I was driving, so I pulled over and did what it told me. After shutting down the car, I tried starting it back up and none of the gears worked. P, R, D, or B.
The message still displayed and the red ! light was still on. After shutting it on off several times, it finally started. No warnings. I found the nearest Toyota dealer and had them check it out. They found nothing but one short circuit, around the same time the warning lights would have gone on. I googled the problem, and it seemed like everyone was saying the problem is caused by a bad 12V battery, so I told the dealer to put in a new one. I was on the road again. However, the first stop I made for gas and sure enough, the light came back and I couldn't get it into a gear without restarting the car several times. I just hope I won't need to spend any more money on this 2 year old car.
Working on a 2010 with 156k miles that threw a P0A80 on two separate occasions. Once before the 12v battery was changed, then the day after the 12v change. Decided to change the HV traction battery today with one from a wrecked 2014 with 56k miles.
After changing the HV batt I started getting the yellow triangle with no code associated with in. I would clear the code and drive the car a few minutes and then the triangle "check hybrid system" would appear.
I have an 07 and replaced the HV battery. Before swapping battery, I had Red Triangle, (!), VSC, Check Engine (took car to dealer who diagnosed it as needing HV battery). Now new battery is in but error-icons remain. The LCD display shows battery as more that half-charged. I connected an old Actron ODB2 scanner (circa 2000), but it doesn't Read any codes and doesn't Erase the codes causing the problem.
View 5 RepliesI had my Prius check out and gave me these trouble codes couples battery's low he has a red triangle ....
P0A78
P3000
P0A80
P03014
P0315
The battery's rating 13.5 volts. Will always trouble codes go away after replacing the battery I added inverter to it because it was it was dying after 50 miles per hour then it slowed down??
I recently cleaned all of the corrosion off the copper bus bars on my traction battery. When I got everything put back together I went to start the prius up and got the red triangle. I then remembered that I forgot to plug the master orange switch back in. After doing so I still had the red triangle so I turned the car on and off a couple times and it went away. Is this normal behavior from forgetting to put the master switch back in an attempting to turn the prius on?
View 6 RepliesI own a 2001 Honda CRV and have realized that I will never own another Honda because it has had many of the exact same problems that my old Accord did. Seems certain things just break on Hondas. However, unlike the last car, I have decided that doing the repairs myself would be a cheaper way to fix these minor problems. To the point: A few months ago, my driver's side door lock started acting up. (Note: I quit using the keyless entry a long time ago and simply use the key). At first, it randomly wouldn't lock/unlock along with the others. However, simply using the key or pushing/pulling on the lock knob did the trick. As time went on, the lock got more and more stubborn. Eventually, it took turning the key (hard) at the same time as pulling on the lever to unlock the door. Locking it still was not a problem. Now, even that does not work, and the only way to unlock it is to pull hard on the outside handle while pulling on the lock knob (this requires the window being down and is therefore impractical for any kind of daily use). Hence, I am resigned to climbing in the passenger door. After reading that Hondas usually have this problem and that it is usually the door lock actuator that is the problem, I purchased a new lock mechanism and actuator (I figured replacing the entire thing couldn't hurt...). So, I have replaced the entire mechanism within the door. However, the problem is still exactly the same. What else could this be?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2008 Camry Hybrid with about 125k miles. A few thousand miles ago the door locks have been displaying portions of the following issues and then finally ended up with all these issues described:
Driver door lock: (OK)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
- Power door lock switch locks and unlocks door
Front passenger door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on this door or driver door, does NOT lock/unlock door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear right door lock: (Intermittent Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger doors intermittently fail to lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear left door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, does NOT open the door
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger door does NOT lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
What specific parts would need to be replaced?
Yesterday I changed battery after that its seems malfunction indicator lamp stays on, i checked with hyundai service center they told to reset the program then diagnose the problem, then only come to know the issue or not issue they asked 20rial, i m wondering just changed the battery got some issue.
View 4 RepliesI replaced the battery because I was getting the red triangle with no screen powerup. This is a slight improvement but I'm stuck as to what the "Problem" indicator on the MFD is about.
I've checked the battery in maintenance mode, reading 12.6V.
i have a 2006 with almost 200k miles. Got the red triangle, check engine light, and the red car at the top of the MFD. I ran the codes and got P3000. Does this sound like traction battery failure? The car still turns on and ICE still cycles off and on.
View 19 Replieswell I saw one other thread on this topic but no resolution. I replaced the hybrid battery like the codes told me too on my 2003 prius and it now drives great but as soon as it start it shows a problem and the red triangle stays on. No check engine light, no codes, no driving issues just a red triangle. How to diagnose a red triangle when there are no codes.
View 16 RepliesI've pulled the HV battery from my 2007 Prius with 144, 000 miles given recent Red Triangle of Death (P0A80) and looking to replace battery pack but want to rule out the ECU. I've searched the threads and found mention of testing the ECU but wasn't clear.
How to test the HV Battery ECU in or out of the car? Using a volt meter and light bulb, etc......I would really like to rule out the ECU before putting dollars in a rebuilt battery pack.
I have a 2007 Prius with 107k miles. Last July it had a minor drivers side front end collision. Last November it had the hybrid battery replaced. I believe all this is unrelated just putting it out there for information.
I am currently having the red triangle pop up intermittently. When it does a "problem" message will display on the MFD. This seems to occur most often after a long downhill or when the Energy display is showing the hybrid battery is nearly full.
The hybrid battery seems to be functioning normal and the car is driving normal and has expected fuel economy. I do have a headlight that cuts out occasionally but no other noticeable electrical problems. I do not have a diagnostic device to get the codes.
Our 2002 just ticked over 200,000 miles and now has the dreaded triangle and DTC P3006 (uneven SOC in HV battery). It putters around, but the MFD is lit up with alarming icons. I cleared the code once, drove two miles, and turned the car off. On the way back home it came back on. We have owned it a few years, the previous owner was a mechanic who bought it at auction, replaced some of the cells and flipped it.
I can access the block voltages, but they don't point to any obvious culprit. I'm also using EngineLink with a PID list adapted from Gen 2.. so the formulas might not be appropriate. I checked both running and engine off, and both times Block 6 was slightly lower.. on the order of .02v. From what I understand, it takes .3v difference to throw the code. Of course the only real test would be under load.. so I don't know what to make of this. But, am I correct in believing that P3006 specifies a problem in block 6, or is that a general code?
The DeltaSOC is 51%. Again, I can't vouch for the math, but this seems pretty high.
I changed my oil, oil filter, air filter at 90k for a trip to Miami this past weekend. Uneventful on the way up. On the way back, stopped and did some shopping before hitting alligator alley to come back home. As I got on the alley after paying the new $3 toll my 05 prius with 90k miles on it would not go over 65 with my foot on the floor and the battery on the mfd was in the pink. So I drove to the nearest exit, checked the fluids etc, all good. Got back on same thing so I put on hazards and stayed on until i could get off on a much slower road. I was going about 55-60 and it would go no faster.
As I got to a place I pulled over DC'ed the negative battery cable and let it sit for a half hour. I then attempted to get going and it seemed to be running fine until I attempted to pass a car and the car seemed to lock up and lose all power, check engine light came on and the red triangle light came on. I pulled over and let it sit again. I then got it to a gas station with the check engine light on. I put a few gallons gas on and tried to limp it home. It made it home and the battery seemed to recharge back to all the blue it can get to, but has yet to hit the green.
I bought an '01 prius with more than 160,000 miles last year , until now it's been a great car , averaging 46-ish mpg , now , a couple days ago I used it to jump-start a diesel truck connecting the cables directly to the auxiliary battery , the truck started after a 2 or 3 mins, the next day the known red triangle and the red car with the (!) appeared , the dealer reads code p3009 (hv leak) but were not able to give me any subcodes. Is it possible that the computer interpreted the sudden "pull" of current from the converter (via the 12v battery) as a hv leak ?
I got the reading of the 19 modules of the traction battery and all are within 0.5 volts of each other , so I hope they are all within tolerance , and the car seems to run just fine.