2010 Prius IV, Purchased July '13 with 133k. Now 175k. Other than drivers rear hub & brake recall, never an issue...until now. It the past 3 weeks, it has "went through" 3.5 quarts of oil. NO SIGNS of a leak (no puddles on floor and the "padding" on the pan side of the access door is dry). Doesn't smoke at all. The oil dipstick isn't rusted out.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2002 f150 5.4 4x4 with 151,000 miles. I am using a lot of oil but its not leaking out. What should I do to fix problem.
View 4 RepliesI started noticing a burning oil smell a few weeks ago after driving to and from work. Then I noticed drops of oil on the floor in the garage. I wanted to start a consumption test so I scheduled an appointment at my dealer and asked them to look at the leak.
The invoice says they replaced some screws and a bolt near the turbo and cleaned the area. That was Monday. Today there are a few fresh drops and the burning oil smell is back as I drove to work. I made another appointment for Friday. What this could be.?
I'm at 53k miles and glad it's still covered. Just hope they get to the bottom of it.
Our '03 Infiniti I35 lost large amounts of coolant each time on 2 long trips but when we did a pressure check, we couldn't get it to leak anywhere we could see and no visible signs of where it may have leaked while driving (no drip lines, puddles, etc.). We're not sure where the water pump is located, but have been told it's internal to the engine, so how can we tell if it's gone bad? Would the coolant burn off with no visible signs? We changed the radiator cap but no change. We use a trusted shade tree mechanic, but he's stumped.
View 7 RepliesIn the past, I've had the common issues of vacuum leaks causing issues as evident from the defrost/ac and then finding busted vacuum lines. Changed out and everything fine for a few years. Now, i dont have 4wd but i dont have the tell tale vacuum leak signs. Also, even if i manually engage the hubs, still no 4wd.
I try to listen for the transfer case to engage when i switch from 2wd to 4wd, I think I hear it engaging, but to be honest the 7.3 makes so much racket Im not positive that Im hearing it, or at least not hearing it the way I "think" that i heard it in the past. I seem to recall a distinctive clunk when engaging, now its barely audible if at all. Now when I switch to 4-Low, there is the distinctive sound, and it does goes into low drive, just that its only 2wd-low, still no front wheel action.
I have never had any issues before other than the vacuum leaks, have never had reason to dig into the transfer case for any reason. The only time it has ever been touched was last summer when i had the BTS installed and all they did was remove and replace.
Do I finally need to either rebuild or replace my hubs? Is it possible not to have 4wd even with hubs manually engaged? Or is there an issue with the t-case? Or is there something else going on? I have access to a lift to attempt "driving" while all wheels off the ground, its just not mine and its a tight fit and a pain to get my truck on it.
A few days back, the low tire pressure light came on, and I checked that the LR tire was only about 20 psi while the other three were ok (>30). I inflated LR to ~35 psi and the others as well. The warning light disappeared.
Today while I was filling gas, I checked the LR, and it is already down to 30 psi (hot) whereas the other three were about the same.
Is this just a small leak/puncture or something else (valve stem, etc)?
The driver's side front and rear has been consistently loosing 2 -3 PSI more than the other side.
Only had it for like 2 months and I don't have anything loaded like luggage in the vehicle.
Is this something I need to be concerned about?
2005 prius only starts when negative terminal is disconnected/reconnected. I recently bought this car with the dead 12 volt battery. Jump started to drive home next morning put new battery it started but all kind of sign lit up VSC, (!), snowflake symbol on the road, big triangle with exclamation mark. I was able to drive the car for 1 hour with very poor gas Milage. Now each time I have to start I have to disconnect the terminal for 10-15 min. I have already replaced the MAF SENSOR, and 12 volt battery. During battery installation My 10mm key accidentally touched the positive terminal as well for a split sec. But warning lights were present before the replacement and the gentleman who sold me the said once battery is replaced lights will go away? When I replaced the MAF sensor they were gone for brief moment but came back on after 1/2 a block?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 530i BMW experiencing an overheating problem. I replaced hoses, radiator, thermostat, water pump, alternator, both belts all of which went fine. However still loosing anti-freeze, it seems to be coming from under the intake manifold. Looking for step by step instructions on removing it to get to the problem?
View 5 Replies1989 3.0 shorty - 135K on her - and at 21 years old, the original radiator finally failed with a hair line crack, and so I bought a plastic on, from on of the part stores, put it in, and now it takes on like a gallon a month of antifreeze.
BUT I see no leak at all... the engine runs fine, and not head gasket or crack head (been there done that with the explorer I have). I don't smell it either really -heater core is dry... as is floor underneath. Need replacing the Radiator?
Firstly let me say that the car is still running perfectly and giving great MPG, but I just wanted to document some early signs of traction battery weakness.
View 13 RepliesOnce a Gen I battery starts showing signs of dying (overcharging when should be in "sleep' mode, MPH loss, loss of power, etc.), what is the range for how long the battery might go before all the lights go on indicating "now it's really dying"?
View 4 Replies2004 prius with 170k. Basically , his engine just doesn't shut off. battery is full. Engine keep running at the stop signs, in park. No engine light on.
View 3 Replies89 3.0L - I seem to loose a little bit of coolant every time I drive maybe like 1/2 a pint?
I checked every connection - engine running, and even waited to make sure the t-stat was opening, and closed, etc (maybe it was the top hose, nope)
I did replace the radiator a couple of years ago, and had the problem ever since I did that, but at the same time, I also replaced the T-Stat with a 165 degree, since she was starting to run a bit on the hot side, even with the new water pump and radiator I did... on a cool day, it would run at the middle of the gauge with a 190 degree... and with AC on, hills and 95 degree days, it would be pushing upwards of 3/4 of the way on the gauge...
Could the 165 degree therm stat be somehow causing a 13 lb cap to not function properly? I replaced the original with a Stant... but Im thinking I should get a new Motorcraft OEM cap, since the other one lasted 20 years!
I kept the old radiator - love it - "wow real brass/copper in there!" it was still fine when I pulled it, but had a hairline crack right below the top hose area...
Anyways, pressure tests revel nothing, I see no bubbles or anything with the engine idling, cap off
A few weeks ago my car over heated and stopped. I had it towed and the mechanic changed the water pump, timing belt, gasket cover and more. About two weeks ago I noticed antifreeze on my drive way. Took it back in and the mechanic changed a clamp on the radiator. it continued to leak antifreeze. I took it to Pep Boys for a pressurized test, they couldn't find a leak, but did say my radiator hoses needed changing and they suspect the radiator cap is the problem. That was a week ago. I just got back from vacation and the reservoir keeps getting low every day, but not at the minimum line since the first mechanic filled it to the top. There is not apparent leak under neath the car. No smell when I start. Oil is not milky. Called first mechanic he said sounds like a blown head gasket....
Car is Honda Accord 1999, 138K miles.
My 2002 has had a slow coolant leak for quite a while (maybe a quart a month). Now, however, I am losing over a gallon a week, but with NO visible leak!
The oil is clear, with no signs of antifreeze in it, so I am guessing the head gaskets are ok. But I am perplexed as to where my coolant is going!
After reading more threads in the forum, (which I should have done more thoroughly before posting,) it seems that I may indeed have a head gasket leak. From what I've learned, that would cause me to lose coolant through the exhaust while driving, and would explain why I don't see a visible leak anywhere. Am I on the right track? Before I replace the head gaskets, are there any other causes that may have a simpler fix??
I have had a Jeep Grand Cherokee for about 4 years. Over the last year or so, I have been having coolant loss. At first, it was very little over the course of a month. Now it is about a half a gallon over a few days. We can't find any leaks. The oil does not appear milky. There is a bit of moisture under the valve cover. What could be the problem?
View 3 RepliesI noticed when I shut off the truck about 30-40 minutes later I'll open the degas bottle cap and notice there is no pressure.
I used a coolant pressure tester kit and pumped in 16PSI but couldn't hear or find the leak.
I'm going to buy a smoke machine in a month or two but until then, can I still drive the truck ?
I'm guessing it is a pin hole leak somewhere as once I shut the truck off... there is a lot of coolant pressure.
Last night we had torrential rains in Baltimore. This morning there were drops of water on the CD's on my passenger side seat, and the seat itself was pretty damp. Also water on the floor near the passengers' side door.
I checked the windows and the sunroof and all were completely closed. I had opened the internal slider on the sunroof yesterday to get some light. Usually I keep the slider closed. Maybe it was leaking even before yesterday, but I didn't notice it because the slider was catching the water.
Very disappointing. My 2011 Prius is less than a year old. I got the sunroof because of the solar cooling, which I like. I didn't think I'd have a problem with a well built car like the Prius, which I am otherwise very pleased with.
I'll wait until the next heavy rain, see if I can pinpoint the exact source of the leak, and then have it repaired while still under warranty.
I running into a bit of a strange tire problem. I recently had the tires replaced on my 17" wheels. I ordered the tires online and had them installed by a local garage. Ever since then, I have been having what appears to be an intermittent leak from my left front tire. I'd typically fill the tire to 42psi in the morning and, by the next morning, discover it to be around 34-35psi. My commute each day is approximately 100 miles round-trip. This is very repeatable.
I have been back to the mechanic. He removed the wheel and very carefully examined the valve stem, rim-tire bead, sidewalls, and treads for any leaking using the soapy water method. We couldn't find anything.
Had our dealer service (non oil change interval) today at 46k miles. Was informed that there is an oil leak from the timing cover seal.
I was told it's not a minor job to remove the timing cover and reseal due to the many labor hours involved. 2 days of work required.