Prius (2010-12) :: Late Starter - Red Blinking Key Light Really Dim At First Then Get Brighter
Nov 9, 2015
My 2010 Prius II has been acting strangely. When I go to turn it on the red blinking key light is really dim at first, but then it gets brighter. The car hasn't been starting right off the bat every time. It seems like it could be a battery issue?
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In my 2010 IV, the brake lights activate on the late side. I can only roughly measure it, but brake lights go on when the brake pedal is depressed at least 1.5 inches. I am used to brake lights in other cars activating with a light touch of the pedal.
Problem is: this really ratchets up the danger of tailgaters, who cannot see when you are beginning to stop. Occasionally, a driver who has been trailing me asks if the brake lights are working properly.
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I first heard this on Car Talk on National Public Radio (sundays at 10, on the west coast). I heard the question but not the answer. Wife favored slow and hubby fast.
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Gen 3 2011, rear view mirror grarage door opener light has a constant dim blink. The second light which indicates reflective repression will not turn on or off. That light should be on at night all the time.
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I am driving down the road and the TPMS light starts to blink - and then stays on. I looked in the manual and it says that "When the light comes on after blinking for 1 minute: Malfunction in the tire pressure warning system." The resolution is to "Have the system checked by your Toyota dealer."
All my pressures, including the spare are how I have them set. I also made sure to re-set the TPMS button under the steering wheel to the new pressures and everything. I'll let you know what I find out. I'm kinda mad a sensor has failed though on a car that's less than one year old.
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Hyundai Elantra 2011... My issue occurred just yesterday on a highway at speeds above 65 mph. I initially noticed my traction control light blinking upon light acceleration but with no noticeable loss in traction.
I continued with caution. About 5 minutes later, the light now was blinking regardless of the amount of acceleration. I found I could push the accelerator to the floor with no added power and my speedometer was dropping below 55 mph.
Being a busy highway, I had to very quickly get to the side of the road as my car dropped to dangerous speeds in the middle of the highway. Had I no shoulder or outlet, I could've been in serious trouble.
The situation resolved itself with a simple shut down, restart of the vehicle. But it makes me very concerned why the error in the computer occurred in the first.
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Prius OEM fan control - EAA-PHEV It seems like at least in the Gen II, the battery fan is quite "lazy" and comes on way too late just like most variable speed fans in electronic equipment.
In the Gen III, does the fan have the same problem? If so, is there an easy way to perform the mod that can be easily undone?
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I can't seem to figure out what to do. I have two 2010 tourages (Work at a bulletproofing company down here in Mexico) and on the first one, we just finished the little light keeps blinking. I took it to get scanned and it shows no errors.. yet the light keeps blinking and it's telling me AFS inoperable.
I tried replacing both head lights with the headlights of the other Touareg but it still keeps blinking...
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is there a way to make the center LED brake light brighter? (such as replacing them with brighter red LEDs or something?)
I was following an identical 2009 Camry today and never realized how dim those center brake light LEDs were.... the car in the next lane was a Chevy something and its center LED brake lights were retina-burning bright!
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So my passenger puddle light is brighter than my driver side. I switch bulb and still the same. Is there a fuse or short or something in the car. Don't know what to do.
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In my 2010, I have a red LED light in the lower left dashboard- in a series of four buttons next to mirror controls, none of which are used- that suddenly started blinking when I start the car, and drive it. I'm not getting any other trouble indicators from the main screen. What it could be?
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I have a 2013 Elantra GLS with almost 200k on it. I am the original owner. I have only had a few small problems with it just replacing lights and had to replace the passengers side wheel bearing twice. the rest has just m=been replacing wear and tear parts. the check engine light is on because it needs 02 sensors. They are back ordered. The car started idling roughly and driving horribly on the way from Rhode Island to New York on Christmas day. A friend had a diagnostic machine and the code read misfire cylinder 3 p0303..I am assuming it damaged the catalytic converter and that I now need both the sensors and the convertor. I live about 7 miles from my garage. should I tow it ? or drive a t a low speed? Have to bring it in first thing in the morning. What else could be wrong?
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I have a '10 with only 4k miles, driven very little. Car might sit for three weeks and sometimes, not always, car won't start, dead battery. I have checked starting voltage and battery. Both check good, (after i have recharged battery, of course). Is this normal? I certainly hope not.
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I had an original Toyota remote starter installed when I bought my 2010 Prius. The dealer informed me at that time that the range was about 90 feet and that I be better with a jobber remote starter... I did stick with the Toyota because I didnt want another remote transmitter key with my keyfob and that the range was not a problem for me...
And winter came and the remote starter was working fine except that on one pretty cold winter morning it did not...and the next morning. It took a while for the dealer to find the problem...
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I have a 2005 Prius with 84k miles on it, I recently purchased it used w/ 82k miles.
While driving, about 15 miles into my drive the check engine light starts blinking with acceleration (I counted as many as 18 blinks in one time). The traction control light also came on a few times. With acceleration, the car shook. I was close to an advanced auto parts, so I went there hoping they could work. They were unable to have the connector sync with the car.
I ended up calling my girlfriend and asking her to look on this site for problems as I described. She found and read me info such as water leaking into the spark plugs (it did just rain allot yesterday) and bad gas. To my surprise, there was really no clear answer.
I called and got it towed to the Toyota dealer. The dealership just called and said they did a quick scan, and it "appears not to be from bad gas" but more testing will be done tomorrow. Would it be worth it to drive up and try some fuel water remover tonight? I also read on changing the spark plugs isn't too hard?
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I have a 2010 Prius. I went out to my car, which was parked in a parking lot, and the hazard lights were blinking. I did not turn them on. I drove home for 20 minutes and could not get them to turn off the whole way. My car sits in my garage with the hazards flashing.
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After oil change today, I see this blinking red sigh. I can't find this sign in the manual. Toyota is closed today.
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I just bought some LED blinkers for my tail lights and after I installed them, I'm getting a fast blinker thing like my lights are out. I know that LEDs don't draw as much power but is there anyway to fix this? Also, if I buy the Valenti tail lights that are LEDS, will I have that issue with them?
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I just purchased a used 2010 Toyota Corolla with Airbag Light ON (not blinking). Yes car was in an accident, but Air Bags did not deployed as per the seller. It needs to re-calibrate by Dealer.
As a novice, and avid Toyota person, since it's a good deal I decided to take the car with the airbag lights on. I have seen on youtube, the cause is likely the spiral cable.
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Ok, my final question about my 2010 Camry I bought. It is certified preowned which means everything has been inspected and maintained. So I was surprised to see my maint. req light blinking. They didn't change the oil?
However, I noticed it is only coming on and blinking when I have the key turned to power on, but not when the engine is cranked. Is this just a normal light display? I'm definitely calling the dealer if the oil needs changed already.
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My remote starter didn't want to start the car this morning. It's been working fine up until today when the temperature dropped to 5-F last night. I sat in the car and used the remote start to see what was going on, and it fired up the motor for a second or so, then it shut down again right away. My in-car test was the 3rd start attempt.. When I pushed the in-dash start button, the car started just fine..
Any insights as to why the remote starter doesn't seem to like the cold? The entire reason I purchased that option was to avoid going outside when it was that cold.. and if that's when it doesn't work....
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