Prius (2010-12) :: Keyless Entry - Locked Keys Inside Car
Jan 31, 2016
Is there a remote way to unlock my car that has keyless entry? The key is locked inside.
View 11 RepliesIs there a remote way to unlock my car that has keyless entry? The key is locked inside.
View 11 RepliesI left my keys in the car last night and then my husband locked the car with his smart key. Is there a way to get my keys out without his key right now?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2011 with keyless entry and I can see the key fob on the center console ledge above the cup holders. My doors are locked for some reason and the wife has the spare set 40 miles away already at work. I tried pushing the button on the driver & passenger door and the trunk release. Nothing happens. I just drove the car yesterday and everything was working fine. I thought the doors wouldn't lock with the fob inside the car, or at least unlock if the fob was inside...?
View 30 RepliesI have seen this happen twice on two different push to start Sonata cars at my shop. Customer stated that randomly it would lock the doors with his key inside while parked at home. I have not yet determined the pattern that could cause this issue.
View 18 RepliesI have 2000 VW Passat. I had my car in shop shop to replace windshield washer nozzle. After picking up my car found out that car started to have electrical problems
- keyless entry does not work;
-When i turn on headlights, the alarm tone inside the car does not go off. I drive the car home with this noise inside the car.
Locked my keys in my car. A locksmith came and instead of using the tool to unlock using the unlock button, he just pulled the regular lever inside with the tool to open the door while it was locked. Since then I cannot open the driver's side door from the inside. It will open, lock and unlock fine from the outside. It is unlocked when I attempt to open it from the inside. I pull the lever and nothing happens. I have to unroll the window and open the door using the outside handle or crawl over to exit from the passenger side door.
View 4 RepliesIf my prius 12V starting battery is dead, and my keyless entry prius is locked, would I be able to jump start my vehicle when I cannot enter it to open the doors, hood or trunk ? The problem is I do not know if the keyless entry is powered off the hybrid battery or the 12V starting battery. If the keyless entry is powered from the hybrid battery, then this is not an issue.
However if the keyless entry is working off the starting battery and that battery is dead and the vehicle is locked, I do not know of how to open the door or the trunk or the hood to jump the vehicle as I cannot access any place in the vehicle suitable to give it a jump start.
My purse with my key was inside the car. I shut the door and walked in front of the car to the barn. And as I walked past the car it beeped twice. When I returned to the car minutes later, all of the doors were locked.
View 18 RepliesSo, my wife's laptop bag got stolen out of a coworkers car... It JUST SO HAPPENED to have our new Elantra key fob (no keys, JUST the transmitter). Any way to go get a new transmitter and program it to THAT one; rather than risk the thief coming back and opening our doors?
View 25 RepliesCan you only open the driver's door on a Prius V 3 without holding the key? I can't seem to get the back to open and there is no sensor on the passenger's front. I am sure going to miss it for grocery shopping.
View 19 RepliesRecently the keyless entry buttons (lock, unlock, panic) buttons stopped working. The red light still came on (strong), but car wouldn't unlock. The key still works for starting the car, but having to use the manual key to enter.
What I have tried:
Ensured this is Option Package 1 car, no push button to disable the SKS from under the dash Tried the reprogramming steps here in this post (though I would say they are not 100% clear) Read the owner manual pages 20-40 Gave up and spent $5 on another CR2032 battery (did not work).
I often use my key to locate my car in a crowded parking lot. But the range of the keyfob isn't very far, and Prius beeps pretty quietly, compared to other cars I've owned.
Where is the wireless receiver in the Prius? In the door? I'm wondering if there's a way to make it more RF-transparent and thus boost its range.
Not sure if this has been figured out yet. I did a quick search but didn't really find an answer.
View 2 RepliesI have prius 2007 of the Japanese make (140k miles). Yesterday, my keyless fob stopped working. I couldn't use it lock/unlock my car; however, it is starting the car just fine. I replaced the batteries on the fob but no avail. The small red light on the fob is shining like normal. There is no abnormal behavior in the car otherwise. What should I check?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2007 Prius with keyless entry and start fob. My battery went dead, got a jump, took it to Toyota dealer. They checked my battery and they said it is a good one just recharged for me. Then when I tried to start my car without inserting the key, it would not work. I asked the service person and he said I would have to come back and pay $110.00 for them to reprogram. Can I do this myself? It was working before my battery went dead. This happened once before but did not lose the keyless function.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2005 Prius. The remote keyless entry just stopped working for locking and unlocking the doors. I replaced the battery and it didn't affect it's performance. The key will still start the car without inserting it into the dashboard. It feels like the unlock portion of the remote is "stiff" and does not depress. It is toyota model number B31EG.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2007 with 247,000 miles. Recently when I go to get in the car in the mornings, the keyless entry will not work. Usually I just touch the doorhandle & it opens. It won't even open when I push the unlock button on the clicker. I have to take the key out of the remote to open the door. This only happens first thing in the morning when it is cooler & there is dew on the car. Later in the day, everything is fine.
View 9 RepliesI noticed today that the red (panic) button cover is lost from my keyless entry (silver Toyota logo) Gen II 2008 remote.
What I basically need is a broken remote, essentially just that red rubber cover.
I have a 2005 Pruis and the remote entry does not work. Changed the battery in the remote and I still have to put the remote key in slot to start the car. Been working fine for ten years.
View 5 RepliesKeyless entry stopped working on driver's door, but still works on passenger door and hatch. Pushing the buttons still works. I already changed the battery in the fob, so it's obviously a problem with the sensor in the door handle.
View 5 RepliesI was out of town for about a week. I drive a 2008 Prius with about 35k miles and no previous issues. I get back tonight and go to open the door with keyless entry. Nothing, doors wont open. I hadn't replaced the batteries in the remote since I bought it, so I figured it was just that. I use the key to manually open the doors. I then go to start the car. Nothing. No lights, no noises, literally nothing happens. I figure, perhaps I left a light on while I was away and the 12V battery is drained. It is quite the rare thing, but it has happened a few times in the past. Usually I would catch it the next day and be ok, so maybe a light was on for a week and that did it.
So at this point I assume it's just a dead 12 V battery. I ask my friend to give me a jump. We open the hood, connect up the jumper cables in this order : + Prius, + and - to his battery, then - to the Prius frame. Quite a few sparks fly, which seemed like more than what I was used to seeing, but it doesn't seem too outrageous. I try to start the car and nothing happens. My friend then tells me he accidentally hooked up the jumper cables backwards. (I know now this is bad, and may be the source of the problem but hear the rest of the story to get a complete picture of what's going on).
So we swap them on his battery and try again. I put my foot on the break and push the power button. His car is still running in the background. The power button LED then turns green, and that is it. No noise or anything else. I then (while keeping my foot on the break still), push the power button again. This time the power button LED turns orange, the parking break P LED turns on green and the check engine light on the dash turns on. Also I think the car also makes the normal humming sound we are used to hearing when it turns on. No other lights are on at this point. The main display doesn't come on, nor does the interior lights work, or anything else for that matter.
The only thing functioning from inside are those 3 lights. I turn the car off and we just figure it needs more time to charge. So we give it a few more minutes of charging and still the same thing. We notice a strange thing. We hear a clicking sound coming from the fuse box area of the car. Every 5 seconds or so, it sounds like a relay clicks, and then clicks off after 2 seconds or so, and this continues on. My friends engine sounds as if during those two seconds like it is sending current to my car (lower engine rpm). So it sounds as if the relay sends current somewhere for a few seconds and then no current goes to my car, 5 seconds later it sends current to my car then 2 seconds later no current, etc. This goes on continuously and we are not sure why.
We figure maybe a fuse is blown. My friend checks the fuses we think to check but can't seems to find anything wrong there. We then think maybe the power needs to be disconnected to the electronics to allow capacitors and what not to discharge. So we disconnect the lug from the jumping terminal (the one we connected the + jumper cable under the hood) for about 10 minutes. We reconnect the lug back 10 minutes later and try again. Same things with the lights and buttons pushing as before. The only difference this time is you can get these lights to turn on without having the jumper cables connected (as if some of the battery was charged).
Next we figure, maybe we just need to hook directly to the 12V battery in the "trunk". So we connect to that. Now, instead of having the relay tripping every few seconds we don't hear the relay tripping at all. And the engine rmps are operating constantly as if it is consistently drawing current (constantly lower rmp sounds). So that is different this time than when we connected to the post under the hood. So we continue running the car at high rmps for a few minutes and try again. Still the exact same thing with the lights.
Also during these tests the break pedal seems to put pressure on itself when you hit the power button a second time and the lights turn on. (This is just a detail to include, I'm not sure if there is anything useful to gain from knowing this). Anyway, I know the problem is most likely that everything was fine until my friend accidentally hooked his end of the jumper cables to his battery. But in the event that there is something else I should check.