Prius (2010-12) :: Jerky Acceleration Until Over 15 - 20 MPH
Jun 6, 2013
It's been over 100*F recently, and we just started running our AC on BLAST (Auto, 74*), and my perfect Prius has been giving me acceleration issues... When it's in PWR mode (100% of the time) and the AC is full blast, and I punch it, the car hesitates, jerks forwards, hesitates, jerks again, then eventually once it's over 15-20 mph it smooths out and goes.
Just to add to the chaos, for the first time ever in my life, I actually HEARD the fan from the vent for the battery. It was pushing air out after I parked the car. Never heard that before, ever! I just want my Prius to be as perfect as it's always been... BTW, I pretty much drive the heck outta that thing. I like how it goes around corners and the acceleration in PWR mode.
2010 Prius, 75,000 miles ....
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My 2012 Prius Two did something odd today that it's never done before. Today, after leaving a meeting, I had two instances where accelerating from a complete stop was met with a delay followed by a jerky and sudden acceleration. This only happened twice out of the dozen-or-so complete stops I made. This only happened on my first couple of complete stops, then never did it again.
Here is some pertinent information:
- Silver Prius, no tint
- Car sat uncovered for about 2.5 hours
- Was 96 degrees outside, not a cloud for miles
- Turned the car on, opened the front two windows for hot air escape
- Turned the AC on to full
- Sat parked but car running for maybe 30 seconds before reversing out of parking spot
- Rolled up windows
- Battery fan was going strong
- No indicator lights came on to suggest an issue
- Happened on my first two complete stops at stop signs
- Never happened again
- Battery fan eventually simmered down
- Have 55,000 miles on the car
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while taking turns at slow speeds, but only sometimes. Can't reproduce by turning wheel when not in motion. My 3yers/36,000 miles warranty expires soon. How do I prove I have a potential problem?
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Sometimes, when I get on the gas rather hard, my acceleration is sort of stuttery and jerky. It's not a traction issue, and I just got Unitronic stage 1...but I was having this issue before that.
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I notice that under normal acceleration, my cars transmission shifts very jerky. I understand this can happen if your driving stick but I have a TIP. Is there anyway smooth or eliminate the jerks?
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I have a 1998 Ford Ranger. My problem is jerky application of acceleration. I note slack in the cable connecting the pedal to the engine throttle. Is there any way to adjust this cable length to remove the slack.
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After a road trip (approximately) 80km both ways, I came back to my home area and filled up and got a car wash. Then I went home. About 2 hours after I noticed the car felt very jerky, and had no acceleration. Then big time sputtering. I turned off the car and waited for it to cool down. Once cool, it just kept on cranking. It started at one point and the engine light came on. And now it only cranks.
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I get jerky acceleration at low RPM (around 1200). It feels as the engine cuts off fuel for a blink of an eye and it does that 1-3 times. It doesn't happen when the engine is cold. It starts after cold engine warning light turns off.
Year 2000 .... Engine 1.3 vvti .... Automatic transmission .... 140k kms ....
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Have an 04 Jetta GLS 1.8t manual. While accelerating at lower rpm and I'm kind of on the gas to get up and go it starts bogging out. Could almost describe it as a little jerky. Anything over 3000 rpm there's no issue. Doesn't matter what gear I'm in either.
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Been having an issue with my 01 Wolfsburg VW Jetta 1.8T.
Whenever I'm accelerating (most noticeable in lower gears), it seems like the turbo can't keep up. Used to sound like a nice clean consistent whooooosh spooling up, but now its more like brrrr......brrrrr......brrrrr.....
Don't know how else to describe it. Seems to start and stop frequently. Will try getting a video clip of this tomorrow.
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2010 Dodge Grand Caravan. On the way to work I was trying to accelerate from about 40mph to 50 mph and my van started to jerk a few times and then the check engine light immediately turned on. I only had a few more miles to work and it was fine the rest of the way.
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My 2011 Golf R is tuned to Stage 2+ by Revo and has the following hardware modifications:
1. Miltek turbo-back exhaust
2. Larger Intercooler supplied by Revo
3. Autech (spelling??) HPFP
4. Revo intake system with a foam filter
Lately I have experienced the following problems:
1. Difficulty in starting (sometimes)
2. A kind of "flutter" on starting as engine revs settle to the idle level
3. A noticeable hesitation in taking off from stand-still
4. Jerky acceleration immediately after the car moves from stand-still
5. At any speed, a noticeable hesitation when throttle is applied
All the above issues have happened in normal driving. By that I mean NOT hard driving. I drive my car on DSG "manual" shift mode.
Unfortunately customer service from, both, Revo and the VW dealer in Dubai leaves a lot to be desired. What are the different possible causes of the above problems, I can make sure that Revo / VW go through the full list until the cause(s) are identified.
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Symptoms: (162K miles, last tune up about 70K miles ago) rough idle, and poor acceleration. Occasionally, the car really jerks while accelerating. I read about new plugs/wires, and something called seafoam. I think the highway patrol would pull me over as a gross polluter, but that too seems worth a try. Various sensors and hoses, I'm frankly overwhelmed. Where to start?
Something I learned today: My car was made in 10/95. Apparently, I can scan for trouble codes?!? How and where? Is it OBD I or II or something else? Dumb question: I can't even get the interior engine shroud off. I found three clamps, but it still hangs up near the top. What am I missing?
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We have a 2002 Sante Fe with v6 and 270,000 km on it. Just had extreme loss of power and jerky acceleration from a stop. This has happened a few times in the past year and each time with a 1/4 tank of fuel? We pulled into a gas station, filled it up and away we go like nothing was wrong?
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I purchased a 2012 Subaru Forester 2.5X Premium (automatic transmission) in November 2011 with 4 miles on it. Since the get-go it has had issues, but we thought that some of them might work themselves out as we broke the car in (which we were religious about). At the first oil change, we told the dealership about the issues we were experiencing and got the expected "the computer doesn't say anything is wrong" and "we couldn't replicate the problems" excuses. We were told to bring it back if the problems continued. Well, they've gotten worse. Here are what we are experiencing:
- Erratic shifting. I commute from the mountains to the city every day, so I need power from the car. Sometimes, when I'm heading down a hill and I tap the gas slightly to give myself a little boost, the car will suddenly downshift, even though it was sitting at 2500 RPM and didn't need to get any extra power beyond more fuel. Going up the hill is worse, as if you are not actively accelerating (including if you are trying to maintain a constant speed), it will upshift on you and you lose all power, so it will need to downshift to make up for this. It does this constantly for the entire drive home. Everyone who has driven this car in the mountains has experienced this.
- Jerky transmission. When the car shifts, it is super harsh and tends to throw you forward or back. Even when on flat ground it shifts roughly.
- Sluggish acceleration. If I give the car any more gas than I usually do, it hesitates before going anywhere. One day I needed to get over on the highway fast and floored it - it took the car about 2 seconds to respond. Then, yesterday, we were turning on to a highway from a side road and I tried to accelerate (gas about 1/2 way to the floor) and it didn't respond at all for about 5 seconds and the "Check Engine" and the traction control lights started flashing at me. We were on a paved road with no gravel, water, ice, etc and the traction control light began flashing on the straight, not while we were turning. There are also days when it feels like there is an anchor tied to the car and it just doesn't want to give me any umph at all.
- Rough starts. This is the really weird one as there is no rhyme or reason as to when it happens. Some times it takes the car several revolutions to turn over. Oddly, it's never on the really cold (under 20 degrees F) days, but it has happened when it is ~35 degrees and a couple of times when I have started it in the middle of the day to grab lunch and it is ~65 degrees out.
- Running rough. This usually happens after a rough start, but can also happen at other times. It just idles very rough and won't calm down. These are the days I have the worst time with the shifting issues.
I had a 2001 Forester that threw a rod, which forced me to get this car. Everyone who has driven both agrees that the 2001 was quicker, easier to drive, and had more gumption than the 2012. It also had less problems even though I purchased it used in 2005 (until the whole rod-throwing thing, of course). I really want to love my 2012 Forester, but I am so upset that, for the first time in my life I have a new car, and it runs terribly.
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I have a 1999 F250 SD V10 4x4. I recently had a transmission installed and the truck is running erratic. I have an engine miss (sometimes when idling, more so when in drive and foot on the brake). I say sometimes because there are times it will not miss and the engine runs smooth. The transmission shifts a little strange and sometimes hard.
I am getting a code reading that says my TPS is faulty, but I installed a new one a few months back.
The engine is running rough (jerky on acceleration) especially when driving. I was wondering if I should take it to a shop and have them flash the computer to reset it?
I also remove the AC compressor a while back (bad clutch). I installed an aftermarket pulley.
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I just bought a brand new 2013 Elantra! I love the car, but over the past week or so I have started to feel the car's transmission (auto) jerk when it shifts from 3rd to 4th gear. I feel the car hesitate somewhat when going from 3rd and then jerk into 4th gear if that makes any sense. The car has less than 1000 miles and it never did it when I first bought it. The transmission was always smooth until recently. Also, when coasting down the road I feel the car jerk forward when I give it some gas which also feels very strange to me!?
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So I just purchased my new-to-me, CPO 2010 RX 350 two weeks ago. It had 81,750 miles when I purchased it, and it now has about 83,000 miles. I just came back from a weekend vacation, having driving about 500 miles total. This morning when I turned on the car, I noticed a message saying "Check AWD System," the check engine light was on, the general warning light was on, and the traction control light was on. As I was driving, I realized that the car wasn't downshifting properly. I didn't drive faster than 40 mph on my morning commute. When the car did downshift, it was a hard, jerky shift.
I did some reading on the forum, and many people suggested all the warning lights could be fixed by taking off and retightening the gas cap (due to the vehicle not reading the emissions properly or something?). I also read that topping off and overfilling the gas tank can be cause for the warning lights to go on. I did fill up once on my way home from my vacation, and haven't filled up since.
Anyways, I just now tried to adjust the gas cap and then restart the car, but the warning lights are still on. What I should do or if I should drive it a bit to let the emissions build up again? My problem is is that I live about 6 hours from a Lexus dealership, so I'm trying to figure out if I can resolve this on my own or what I should tell a mechanic specifically if I need to take it in.
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I'm having a trouble when accelerating at low rpm the engine begins to rattle. Tried removing the connector plug on the egr, to my surprise the rattle is gone but the engine light comes on saying that the EGR circuit is incomplete. Took it to the dealer and they diagnosed it to be the EGR valve opening but failing to close, so they instead proposed to fill in gas with a bottle of their injector cleaner. That made no difference, so tried replacing the EGR valve but again makes no difference. What could the culprit be?
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I have a 2010 Prius Pkg 5 with around 71xxx miles. I usually drive it like a regular car on eco mode and get around 38mpg average but recently I've changed my style of driving where I accelerate to the desired speed limit, let go of the gas, then reapply and keep the mpg meter in between the middle eco line and before the pwr band. I've been able to average 44mpg this way, which is great!
However, what I've begin to notice now is that say if I'm traveling at say around 45mph and let go of the gas and re-apply, the engine starts to shudder as if it's not getting enough gas. Why this is happening? I also need new tires (215/45/17) but that doesn't have anything to do with this. I've owned this car since 30xxx miles and haven't done anything other than put gas and change the oil at the dealerships. Could putting 87 octane gas with up to10% ethanol have any effect on this?
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Lately I have found that when I am trying to go up an incline on my road, that my car has trouble accelerating. Almost as if the engine is being choked off like it is about to stall or is out of gas. I have to press the accelerator almost to the floor to get up the incline. The suddenly it will lurch and accelerate rapidly as if I have put the car in Power Mode.
I should also add that this only happens when the engine is cold. I didn't have this problem last year at all. I usually wait a couple of minutes after the engine starts before I try to drive, but that doesn't seem to work.
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