Prius (2010-12) :: Is It Safe Changing Driving Modes
Apr 19, 2012
Is it "safe" (meaning for the car) to change driving modes while driving? I understand that all it really does is change the way the throttle pedal works but just want to make sure that I don't have to be stopped to change modes.
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So after figuring out that my 08 is in power mode and will not automatically go back to econo mode ... how can I manually change modes on a GEN II? I know there is a way as I got it in that mode and can't get it out!
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What are the selection input for these? I have seen them go back and forward on its own. I have also been told that there is an in-cabin humidity sensor but have seen no documentation on it. Does that switch between fresh and recirculate?
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Right now it's about 80 outside in SoCal and I want to go out soon with 100% grill blocking: is it gonna be overheating something?
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When you're driving, how often do you change driving modes? (Eco, Normal, Sport/Sport+)
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I have a 2013 Non-F Sport Model with Navigation and was wondering if there was a secret on HOW To TURN OFF the Navigation? Not the whole screen, just the Navigation part. I see how to turn off the screen but I want to just see my Radio/SAT menu on the screen as I do not use Navigation that often. Right now Navigation is always on and takes up 3/4 of the screen!
also... is is safe to drive in any of the 3 modes (eco, normal, sport) ALL the time in all conditions ? As in using Eco for driving all the time (city and highway), or is one better than the other for certain conditions.
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Eco/Normal/Sport S/S+ Mode... the literature doesnt say much except it changes throttle response and power output. For the Sport modes it says that "The rear-wheel drive IS 350 F SPORT's Sport S+ mode also tightens the suspension..." Are the shocks somehow adjustable, or is this just marketing BS?
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I remember when I was turning on my AC, outside air was closed and when I was turning it off it was switching to recirculated air mode. Now its not functioning like that.
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I recently got a prius plugin. In last couple of weeks I have noticed that when I am EV mode and speed crosses over 65, my HV mode kicks in. But I can see the EV mode running in parallel with HV until the EV runs out. During this point, I see both the EV miles and HV miles piling up and it seems like doubling the miles in EV & HV. I saw this four or five times in the last two weeks.
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my 2007 Prius has been sounding a bit under the weather lately. There is a grinding scratching noise. This happens in either EV or HV modes and is most noticeable when bearing right. The tires are on their last treads, and a bit scalloped but that seems to me to be a different sound.
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- handbrake = parking brake foot thing - the thing that applies rear wheel brakes when stationary;
- manual = stick-shift etc.
- service brake = normal foot brake/big middle pedal
Driving scenario: Short pauses, quick lights etc - no problem, the car is held on the normal brake and the drive knows I have my foot on the brake so shuts all drive down.
Discussion point here - at lights, longer pause in heavy traffic, level/railway crossing etc. The sort of pause where you want to take your feet off the pedals and wait.
With a manual I would put the car in neutral, apply the handbrake and wait. Then when moving again, car into gear, hand brake off balanced with clutch bite and accelerator.
The car was left in drive all the time & knew if the handbrake was applied not to try and engage forward torque/ride clutches etc. Never needed neutral on the Audi multitronic.
With Prius III when I pull up, if I leave the car in drive and apply the handbrake, then take my foot off the service brake the power modes display shows the car putting torque through the drive train - i.e. battery->motor->wheels & you can feel it pulling slightly in creep mode against the handbrake.
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So, I changed the front brake pads on my 2007 Prius blindly, and in doing so I bled the lines (I also had the key in my pocket!). Now, the ABS light, VSC light and (!) light all are on and continue to stay on while driving. Is this something as simple as resetting the codes? Is the vehicle safe to drive to a repair shop to set strait?
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What additional parts should I be replacing when I do this? Spring seats, bump stops, etc?
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The buttons to change the temperature in my 2010 Prius don't do a thing... The temperature is cool-ish as long as you have the AC turned on, and stays the exact same as you increase the temperature until you get to 85 and it maxes out, then it starts to get warm. As soon as you go to 84, it's cool again.
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I recently bought a 2011 Prius two from an independent car sales shop. After 2k miles, I thought I'll replace with Mobil 1 synthetic. I'm doing the oil change for the first time and made a rookie mistake. Car on ramps, assuming the car was turned off (in fact, it wasn't), I removed the drain bolt and filter.
Oil was almost drained and suddenly the engine turned on. I scurried over and turned it off, probably in 6 or 7 seconds. Car runs fine now. But, I just want to know what damage my silliness would have caused the engine.
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Fill up the tank when I had 20miles to go but the figure is not changing, still going down, I'm at 9 miles.
2010 gen3.
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I changed the front brake pads, took all the precautions during the change, did not disconnect the 12 v battery, pumped the brake pedal 12 times, started the car and no warnings. Now the brake pedal is a little spongy, if I press the pedal to the floor the VSC/TRAC light comes on, to reset it I have to press on the pedal again and the brakes do work.
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Was replacing the rear brakes on my Mom's 2010 Prius II and found a tiny tear in the piston dust boot on the driver side. The piston still moves freely. I was hoping the boot could be replaced without removing the piston but from reading the repair manual on the brakes it specifically says the boot must be placed on the piston before the piston is installed.
So now I'm debating on what to do. I can rebuild the caliper for almost nothing but I can't bleed the brakes because of the Prius' system. I would have to take it to the dealer afterwards and not sure about driving it there. Do things could be damaged with air in the system?
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The steering wheel mysteriously clocked itself slightly to the right after changing out the standard tires to same sized studded tires for winter. This has never happened before and I was unaware of any alignment/wheel clocking problems up to driving into the shop to swap out the tires on the wheels.
Air pressures were all good and even all around--but I don't know if they were even before the change-out. Also, the wheels were balanced and the drive afterwards revealed no pulling either way or vibrations. On top of that neither the tire store nor my Toyota dealer had any explanation(s).
I'm only guessing at this point that prior to studded tires there might have been a clocking error so slight it was not perceptible in over 5K miles and with the studded tires now it is perceptible.
Q: Is it possible under my circumstances for a different set of tires on the same wheels to make this sort of difference?
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My original Yokohama avid s33 is about ready to be changed. It now have over 42k on them. I think I can still stretch it before the winter starts. My OEM size are 195/65/15 and I'm thinking of getting the 205/65/15. According to Tire Dimensions Made Simple - Discount Tire my tire rotation will decrease by over 16 revs per mile. I know the side wall is going to be about a quarter an inch higher about an inch and a half bigger in circumference And the car is going to sit half an inch higher and a wider Width.
Looking for observation/s pertaining to performance, mpg, handling, traction, etc.
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I am planning to deep drain the HV battery by putting my 2006 Prius in neutral and keep some current draw from the HV battery. I don't have a grid charger installed. I wonder what is the safe SOC that I can still start the ICE.
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