My 2010 has the intermittent noise when starting in the cold. Brought car to dealer with printout of the TSB from December and they will not repair it unless they duplicate the noise. Also I read about a rear motor mount to be replaced.
View 1 RepliesWe've got a 2011 Prius with a little over 24k miles on it . For the last few months we've been having issues with it starting. First I thought the remote barriers were dying so I replaced them , I thought my wife might have been trying to start it incorrectly till the problem happened to me a few weeks ago. What happens is you try to start it (foot on brake, press power button) and all the warming lights pop up , radio turns on , navigation turns on but car doesn't start. This morning it happend just once , yesterday I had to try it maybe 10x before it finally started up. The dealership had it last Saturday and of course it started every time for them and they couldn't duplicate the problem , they also said they ran whatever tests they do on it and it didn't turn up a problem. FWIW we had the software recall update done in June.
View 19 RepliesMy ugly little 2000 Accent that I've taken careful care of for 240,000 miles has developed an intermittent, multi-symptom cold starting problem, how to solve....
Background on the car: I've owned this car since it had only 9,000 miles, so I know everything that's happened to it over the years. I've kept up on all the regularly-scheduled maintenance over the years and miles - oil changes, timing belts, engine coolant, water pump, belts and hoses, pcv valve, plugs & wires, fuel and air filters, transmission fluid, etc.
No check engine light on, no codes to diagnose available
Not leaking oil from the top or the bottom
No vacuum leaks
Runs strong, no loss of power or rough running at idle or under load
No major components related to spark and fuel delivery have been replaced - coil pack, fuel pump, etc
Symptoms:
Starting problem 1 - The car will simply refuse to catch and start up, sometimes for as long as 10-15 seconds of cranking, after which it starts and runs normally. This happens infrequently, but has been becoming more frequent in recent months.
Starting problem 2 - The car will immediately start to fire (one or more of the cylinders will catch), but will hesitate to fully start up for about 2-3 full engine rotations, what I would describe as a rough start.
I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx with under 100,000 miles. Battery 1 year old, starter 3 months old. On cool or cold mornings I have intermittent starting issues. All lights come on, instrument panels gauges and indicators function right, no clicking or any noise. Just won't start. Typically if I come back in a couple of hours, it starts right up. Once it starts, I have no other starting problem with it the rest of that day.
On Christmas eve morning it wouldn't start. It didn't start for 2 days. I jumped it and got it started once, but after revving it and sriving it for 10 minutes I turned it off and tried to start it again - but couldn't. I wouldn't even jump after that. 2 days later, I had it towed to a shop where they removed the starter and greased the connections - and it started. They then sent it over to a Chevy dealer who checked all the codes (It never turns up any codes when it doesn't start) - but since there were none, they flashed the computer and started it 20+ times - no problems. They sent it back to the shop who also started it a bunch of times with no problems. They sent it back to me and it worked for another week or so before it started happening again.
It is not every morning - only random mornings. Except for that one day, it will always start later on in the day.
Vehicle: 1995 960 wagon
Background: Exhibits intermittent no-start behavior in both warm and cold weather, wet and dry weather, having sat overnight, or only sitting a few minutes. Turns over fine, but won't start. Sunday, it started fine several times, went to Home Depot, wouldn't start. Called a friend to pick me up. When he was almost there, I tried it again and it started back fine. Been in shop a few times, they played around with a few electrical connections, battery cables and grounds to injectors. Also replaced fuel pump. I have not verified if it is a fuel or spark problem, I just bought a FI fuel pressure gauge last night.
Once started, it does fine. It never stalls or cuts out. That is why I am leaning toward a CPS (that's what jeep people call it.) Sometimes, under the slow cranking speed (relative to idle) the signal is too weak to be useful. However, during idle and normal operation, the flywheel is moving fast enough that the signal is much stronger (being a magnetic pickup). Thus, the reason it only happens during starting, not during running.
Here's my current working theory: Bad crank position sensor (is that Volvo people call it?)
This is the only part I can think of that would cause this. A fuel pump problem would probably show up during running. I think the pump also receives a signal from the cam sensor, so if that sensor were the problem, it would happen during running too, not just starting. It the cam sensor an optical sensor? Shouldn't cause it to not start, although it might cause a difficult start.
2012 Prius V w/24k miles. Have experienced a noise while driving. (best I can describe it is like when moving a straw up and down through the lid on a styrofoam cup). It is intermittent. Have discussed this with the dealer service department at least three times. One tech drove with me said he found a bad front strut which was replaced. It took some time but noise returned. I can hear it when others can't and can feel it through the floor board. It may be muted but also so loud my wife says it sounds like something is going to fall off. Does it at slow speeds across parking lots on smooth surfaces or on road on smooth and rough surfaces in any kind of weather conditions. Will be taking it in for 25k service soon but what to look for.
View 1 RepliesI have a 98 Grand Cherokee (V-8) with 127K on it, that sometimes during cold starts acts like an old carburetor system with the choke sticking. It floods, chokes, it sputters, and you have to maintain an RPM of about 2000 to keep it running and get it to snap out of it. A local shop did a tune up on it before this problem started to happen intermittently, aside from this, it seems to run well. I took it back to the shop and they did several diagnostic tests and even got it to do it for them while they had it.
I told them that it seemed like if we released the key from the start position as soon as it began to fire, the problem would happen, if we held it I the start for a bit longer we could usually avoid it. They returned it to me saying that "Yup, if you hold the start position longer it won't happen, and by the way here is a bill for $103." With the recent below zero temps, it's getting worse, almost unavoidable. My wife says it uses a lot of fuel when this is happening but we have not actually tracked the mileage. Other than this it's a great car but I'm ready to drive it off a high mountain cliff.
My 2010 Prius has been making an odd noise intermittently while accelerating. I haven't been able to reproduce it for the mechanics (of course). The best description I have for the noise is this. It sounds like the click/rattle sound a car makes when it is stalling. Just sped up. This can happen at any time I accelerate (even at highway speeds) but it usually happens just after I start moving from a stop. When it occurs it feels like there is a drop in engine power and I either have to take my foot off the accelerator, or push down harder and power through.
View 10 RepliesI've been having a problem over the past month with my base 2014 Elantra (33k miles). Sometimes when I go to start the car there is a complete loss of electrical power. One of a couple of scenarios will occur:
1) Key Fob will not unlock/lock doors:
*There is no power to anything (no dash lights, interior lights, car won't crank).
2) Key Fob will unlock/lock doors:
* Either all interior lights will be on and when I attempt to crank everything shuts off (no dash lights, interior lights, etc)
* Or Clock and radio are reset, car starts fine
* The battery checks out as far as voltage/charge.
* There are no visible fuse issues.
* There are no check engine lights.
I have had it in the dealer the past 4 days and they haven't been able to reproduce the issue. So far I have been able to eventually get it to start by opening and shutting doors, which would lead me to believe it is a loose connection somewhere, but again the dealer hasn't been able to diagnose anything.
Yesterday I started my 2011 Prius, about 3 seconds later (Im guessing here) I pushed the A/C button, the engine started (at the same time), and I got this horrible grinding, clunking, bucking noise from under the hood. It lasted for about 5 seconds then stopped and everything was fine. Engine ran smooth, A/C was running. I turned off the A/C thinking that might be it and started it again, again everything ran smoothly. I pushed the start button the shut down the car, waited about 15 seconds, pushed it again, all normal, again with the A/C on. I put into drive and moved forward, allowed the engine to start, no problems. Smooth operation, everything normal.
I gather it'd be a good idea to take it in, but want to know how many "on-off cycles" until a problem is erased from memory. I did drive it last night (everything ran just fine) and went through 3 "cycles". What this could be? Bad fuel?? I have a 2011, with about 38k miles on it. This is the second Prius I've owned and have never had a problem before, let alone something like this.
About 95% of the time our 2012 Elantra runs great. But then 5% of the time, it hits us with this intermittent starting problem. It will crank but just won't turn over. It really feels like it's just not getting any fuel. This has happened intermittently for the past 2 years. Every time we take it in, the dealer can't replicate the problem. It starts right up for them. The car will behave well for a while but then inevitably, it acts up again - usually at 6:30am when we need to get to the hospital for work.
Here's a video of it in the act : [URL] .....
It's not the shift interlock - it wouldn't even crank if it were that.
The noise seems routine. It happens when you get close to the car and open your door. I guess the car is anticipating that you will start the car soon and under the hood, some subtle mechanical noises occur. Just wondering what that noise is?
View 3 RepliesAbout a month ago, I purchased my 2013 Prius Four. I've put on about 2,500 miles so far and recently started noticing when I start the car up, it is giving off a high pitched squeaking noise. This happens both when the car is using the electric battery and when I can feel the gas engine kick in. After about a minute or two, the noise goes away and doesn't come back.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2010 Prius III I bought used the other day and all of a sudden I'm getting intermittent shaking / rough starting sometimes after the car sits for a while. However, after that happens it seems to run and drive just fine. At first it didn't throw any codes or anything but now Check engine light on with 3 codes.
View 8 RepliesThere is no problem starting the car- it always turns over immediately, but every 1 out of 7 - 10 cold starts includes a strange noise from the engine compartment. Just as I let go from the crank position, I hear a sound similar to that of playing cards being shuffled. The duration of the noise is just a second or two, just like the time it takes to shuffle once.
It never has happened when the car is still warm. I had the Toyota dealer look at it, but they couldn't reproduce the noise- not surprising, since I didn't leave the car overnight, and even if I had, it still would be unlikely to happen when needed. The noise has been happening for a year or so, and it doesn't seem to increase or decrease in frequency due to air temperature or weather.
I did have a lot of corrosion on the battery terminals last summer and had starting problems then, and had the mechanic clean the terminals and check the battery, and the battery was fine, yet the sound continues, but no further starting issues. What might be going on?
I have a 2009 Gen III T Spirit. Recently, and I think following the recent reflash, I have been getting an extra noise on cold startup. It is a scratching noise that lasts just a couple of seconds about 4 or 5 seconds after pressing the start button. I have tried to attach a short recording but cannot upload an mp3 file so have made it into a zip file.
I have checked whether it is radio by removing fuses 8 and 28 and have also switched off the heater fan, both without any effect.
Our 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid has been great and trouble free. Recently, however, we've noticed a strong smell,like fiberglass, come from the A/C when starting from a cold engine.
View 4 RepliesWhen starting in morning (even if weather is warm) or after car has sat for several hours, my 1999 Taurus makes a high-pitched whirring noise. Thought it was a loose fan belt, but mechanic said that was wrong. Have taken it to several mechanics and, of course, it doesn't make the noise after I've driven it there. Have to leave it overnight, which is HUGE problem as I don't live near public transportation. Noise occurs several times as I shift into DRIVE and then accelerate. After that, it disappears, then comes back again, if I leave it sit for several hours. One mechanical friend checked the tranny fluid and said it's fine. Also said it is probably not the tranny but didn't know what it could be. I took it to one of your recommended mechanics, but they couldn't find anything and said they didn't even hear the noise, although I did leave it overnight at their garage. (Won't go back there again.)
View 5 RepliesHave a 2002 Ford Explorer 4.0 6cyl. w/ around 150K
I recently started hearing a little chirping noise when starting from cold. The rate of the chirping increases with the rpms (reving in neutral or when speeding up while driving). The sound usually goes away after things warm up.
Doing some research, the most suggested cause for such chirping is something called a Camshaft Position Sensor. Information mentions that this item can either need lubrication or to be replaced.
I was going to try lubrication first....then if the problem persists...replace.
My biggest issue is locating it on a 2002 4.0 Explorer (4 door, 4wd). I've read different reports for different Year models (mostly 97-2001)...which often include pictures. But I can't find ANY pictures for the 2002 4.0
QUESTION: Where it is located on my 2002 6cyl model? I read one account of it being on top of the driver's side valve cover....and I DO see an item in that location secured by one bolt..and it does have an electrical wiring harness attached....but I'm not sure...and have not seen any photos that look like my engine.
I've attempted to upload a picture of what I think maybe be the sensor (circled on red).
I've also come across an item called a "CRANKshaft position sensor".....are these different items, and, if so, does the crankshaft p.s. also "chirp" when needing lubrication or replacing ?
My concern is I have some intermittent clicking/clunking noise. What causes it is if I start out whether fwd or rev. Or if I am going slow in 1st gear and I let off the gas to slow down or press the gas to speed up (btw 1000rpms and 2000rpms) I was told this noise is the clutch engaging or disengaging, which doesn't make sense because when it happens the clutch is fully engaged.
I have had this noise before 2X and there were things that were loose, which were tightened up and the noise went away. This time local dealer told me sound is normal and to keep an eye on it. To me it doesn't sound right cause its noises I didn't notice before.
I have a 2011 Elantra with about 18,000Km on it. I'm now hearing intermittent high pitch squealing when driving below 40km/hr, seems to be coming from the right side but it's hard to tell.
It tends to go away when I apply the brakes or accelerate. I doubt it's the brake pads.
I remember some time ago while servicing the car at the dealership after the first two years, they recommend to have the brakes cleaned. I opted to not do as I thought it was a cash grab.