Prius (2010-12) :: Installing Center Brake Light Flasher In Rear Hatch
Oct 23, 2010
I am going to install a center brake light flasher in the rear hatch. I see the panel that appears to cover the area I need on the inside of the hatch between the 2 windows. What is the best way to remove it? Am I on the right track?
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Can I latch mount a carseat at the rear center? I asked the question when I test drive. I asked the sales when I bought the car. He told me the middle share the same hatch hook with side seats. I need to mount one car seat in the middle and one on the side.
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Perhaps a silly question but I noticed on my new 2015 RX 350 the brake lights that are in the rear hatch don't come on when the brake is applied, only the brake lights in the body of the car on each of the outer corners. I was following another new 2015 the other day and noticed it was the same. When looking at the the part of the taillight assembly that's in the rear hatch, it appears there are LEDs in there. why they don't light up?
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What is the "type" of these dual filament lights and the proper way to access /change them? Do you pull off the lense from outside the vehicle or remove the inside trim at the top of the hatch and access from the inside??
Since only 1 filament is used can I simply reverse them to the used /non burned out filament or do the bulbs have pins on there sides that prevent that (like a 1157)??
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I need to find a way to limit the rear hatch opening ... or find a taller wife.
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I'm getting a rattle in the hatch area -- making a sound as if the hatch is moving independent of the body.
Sound like the hatch is loose -- but it's not. If I grab hold of the wing and try and move the hatch ---- it's tight and I get no sound.
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I had a friend drive my car while I was in the rear hatch area trying to find a bad rattle. I discovered that it is inside a large plastic panel just where the rear window wiper motor would be. I'm sure if I could safely remove this large panel, I could find out what the rattle is and quiet it.
How to remove this panel? Are there some hidden bolts or screws? I don't want to force-pry it off if that is not the proper way to remove it. I'd sure rather do this myself than go thru the dealer rigmarole.
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I've had my 2010 for about 17months and 16k miles. Early on, I remember that I was able to easily close the rear hatch by just lightly yanking down on the handle, and gravity would do its thing. However, these days, I need to pull down much harder to get it to close in one try. Should I try to lube the hatch shocks and hinge? Or do I need to clean them first somehow?
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I just had my treg serviced. One of the tsb's performed was the remote antenna fix. Range is much improved but one problem; the center button on the key remote which used to open the rear hatch doesn't work anymore. Now when pressed, the lights flash and the hatch does not open. I checked the comfort settings and they are still set at unlock doors and hatch.
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Having problems with the vertical rear hatch window shattering? Mine is completely shattered, only the tint is holding it together. I can't see a single impact point (and don't think I backed into anything). It looks like a network evenly distributed over the entire rear window. But maybe this is the way safety glass breaks when it is hit at one point???
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I bought a 2012 prius 4 with 42k miles recently. The car is just too loud. I've determined the "noise" to be the rear hatch bouncing when I drive over small bumps in the road. The bounce creates an air pressure change that is just too unacceptable. I've milled the hatch lock mechanism's holes into slots to I can close the hatch tighter. This made a little improvement. My next step will be to add some gasket material on the hatch itself so it closes tighter. My slots allow the hatch to bottom out so I had to back off the adjustment a bit.
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I want to replace the center brake light in my 2010 RX450h. Any step-by-step instructions on how to do this?
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Took the car to the dealer, said "just turn off the beeps, all of them." The rep. said come back in an hour. Most of the beeps are off now, but I have an odd pair of problems.
1.) The rear hatch no longer beeps when open, but it also has no longer has the SKS function.
2.) The front seat belts no longer beep, but the front dome light no longer has an on-when-door-is-open function.
3) I'm waiting to see what bizarre side effects come from the single reverse beep.
The rep. says these are side effects from killing the beeps, that the nuisance beeps are tied to these two functions and that the only way to restore them is to bring back the beeps. He claims that the front beeps & dome light are triggered by a sensor inside the door that is part of the door latch, that when this sensor is disabled all its functions stop. I think he said it's the same problem with the rear hatch and its SKS.
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Just installed my Euro switch from USP Motorsports, When I have the DRL's on with fogs whichever side the flasher is activated on dims the L.E.D DRL instead of shutting it off or keeping it at full power. Is this normal?
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I'm looking for all my options for a constant or not constant power source to install a switch (an on & off toggle/other) for I could have my emblems light up without using headlights or parking lights.
Basically for you could only see the emblems on at night.
I originally tapped into the side parking lights to use for the front emblems and the rear license plate lights for back emblem.
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A friend of mine has a 2004 F150. The tail lights and the 3rd brake light are working but the rear brake lights, flasher and turn signals have stopped working. What could be wrong? I googled the problem and did find one person with the same issue in a 2001 F150. There apparently was a recall (#05S28) of the SCDS (Speed Control Deactivation Switch) but that vehicle kept blowing fuse 13. My friend checked his fuses and they were all ok,
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Our rear-center seatbelt receiver broke, so I bought a new one. I can not loosen the bolt that holds the bracket. Is it just really tight, or is there a trick?
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I tried to reset my TPMS light using the procedure in the owner's manual after installing my snow tires on the OEM wheels. Now it looks like there is no effects as the lights will just keep blinking even if i am holding the button down. Does this mean the tire shop broke one of my sensor during the install?
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I know it's not necessary, one can just leave the old one in.. But I want to mount the new relay, and not leave it hanging off a harness (that's what caused me to drop the relay in the dash in the first place)..
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I purchased this relay 81980-50030 from Ebay for my Prius 2010. 8 Pin LED Flasher Relay Fix Signal Lights Lexus Toyota Je | eBay
I haven't received my LEDs yet, but when I installed this relay, turn signal does not have any response. The seller said this item is not compatible with my car, but according to my reading in the forum it should be. I saw other seller selling relay which looks the same as this one have description says it's compatible with Prius 2010. Is it just a faulty item or the compatibility issue does exists?
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2010 F-250 14,000 miles, gas engine with Knapheide utility bed. Tilt wheel has been kept in the up position from day 1.
The problem:
No rear brake lights.
No high mount brake light.
No rear turn signals.
No rear hazard flashing lights.
All trailer lights work.
All other truck lights work.
Things checked: Fuses all OK. Visual inspection of multi-function switch. Looks clean. Brake switch at brake pedal has power on one wire. Jumpered the other wire-no brake lights.
I need to haul my trailer and am nervous when I see a Savannah, GA metro police car.
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