Prius (2010-12) :: IPA Not Working Properly After Repair
Oct 29, 2010
Well, just a little history of what'd happened to my Prius 1 month ago; I've got rear-ended and was shunted forward and hit the car in front of me, so the damages were both bumpers at back (more severe) and front (slight damage to the front number plate). Got it back last Thursday and it all looked fine and well, until today where I was being asked to show off the IPA at work, and it is not working properly, in fact it is not working at all.
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Got a 2010 Prius with navigation couple days ago. No problems so far except, in mornings, on cold start head unit acts strange. If I press map or destination button on the right side of it, it skips music tracks that are being played or changes the radio station. It glitches like that for about 15 minutes, than comes back to normal. turning the car on and off doesn't work at all. The unit had been replaced once under warranty by toyota dealer.
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I have a corolla 2010 S and I think the blower is not working properly. It work in all speeds but in the max speed (4) you could hear and feel that the air flow varies. There is a little noise coming from the glove compartment. I already change the cabin air filter and still do it. I have to change the blower ?
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I've noticed one a while that my steering wheel volume control freak out! Sometimes, when I push it, instead of volume going up or down the telephone function gets activated?
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There is a scratch on the top outside of the plastic rear window divider. I don't know if it was vandalism or some flying road debris. I know how we all love the divider, however this is not nice on a car with less than 1000 miles
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I have a 2004 bought in 2003. It recently logged its first 100k miles. My problem with it is not easy to describe. It is actually running more like a non-hybrid car. I can feel and tell the hybrid system is operational, and I can hear the electric motor whine when coasting, down, etc. However, I don't think it is running as it should or as it used to. It happened on highway while cruising about 70 mph. I hit the accelerator to pass someone, and I felt that something changed. I'll try to describe it: think of a half-clogged pipe. The water can barely gets past the obstruction. You keep applying pressure, and suddenly the clog dissolves under pressure, and water begins to flow freely, and the pressure goes down. So it felt like that. Now the accelerator pedal is lighter, car is faster to respond, yet I think something is wrong because the car isn't itself anymore.
I don't like problems like these because they are very difficult to diagnose, let alone fix. For a while I also have not heard the inverter pump whine after shutting the car off as I did in the past, but the last time I got out of the car today I heard it. I believe it was replaced five years ago after a collision with a Trailblazer wiped out half of the front end ( but with no power train damage). I checked the VIN for the inverter pump campaign, but my VIN was not in the range.
Right now my problem is that the car feels a lot faster than it has ever been. When I lift off the accelerator, it doesn't begin to coast as it used to. No warning light of any kind out of the ordinary is present on the dash, although it did have the red triangle on during start up with a message about the parking gear not being engaged properly. That warning went away after the change in performance occurred. Related?
I guess I will take it to the dealer to see if there are any codes stored. After my 30 mile commute this morning, no whining, buzzing or any kind of noise was present after I shut off the car and I got out. There is still no warning light.
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I have a 2009 Prius base model, and I've been having two different brake problems.
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I have a check engine light on. The code it's throwing out is P0455 which is EVAP Emission Control System Leak (Large) My gas cap is on tight so it's not that. I'm not sure if it's my N80 Valve or if something else in the fuel system is wrong. For the record I did replace my fuel pump about 2 weeks before the light came on if that has anything to do with it.
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I have a 2009 Prius. Last summer I noticed that the outside temperature gauge was not working properly. I asked at the wonderful dealership I go to and no one knew anything.
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When stuck in traffic jams, and my 2004 Prius shows 2 bars on the HV battery charge, it attempts to start the engine to maintain the charge on the HV battery. What was happening was the engine would attempt to start and then it would immediately die. It would keep repeating this process, over and over again, and would not charge the HV battery. Once I started driving out of the traffic jam, the engine ran fine and it charged up the HV battery while I was moving down the road. I decided to clean the throttle body. My charging problem did change due to me cleaning the throttle body. Instead of starting and immediately dying, over and over again, the engine no longer dies.
It now revs up, and slows back down to idle over and over again when sitting still with 2 bars of charge. The display does not show any charging going on during this revving up and slowing down episode. I need some more hints as to what to check out. I am studying electrical diagrams of the vehicle, but I need a synopsis of which system starts the engine for HV charging, and which system keeps the engine revving at the same RPMs during charging while not in motion. The throttle body cleaning made my 257 K mile Prius run like a scared deer again. I just need to get her charging while sitting still again. 12 volt charging system is in the 14+ volt range and 12 volt battery with no load is around 12.2 volts.
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We spend summers away and our 06 Prius stays in the garage. I connect a battery minder and it keeps the 12v battery charged with no problem. I also turn off the switch under the steering column that works with the remote.
When I started the car after two months and driving for a few blocks, I noticed the MFD showed the battery at a low of two purple lines. After a while, it charges up normally. The car has 47000 miles and the 12 v battery has never been changed. Would that have something to do with it or am I being concerned over nothing?
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1. The front driver's side window does not seem to have auto or express up/down. (Works fine for both passenger side windows).
2. The rear driver's side window doesn't not go up or down at all when using the driver's door switch. The rear door switch operates the window just fine, so it's a switch issue, not a window issue. (Probably obvious from the symptoms but I am not talking about accidentally locking the 3 non driver windows & then being confused)
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2013 Prius C with Entune. The USB connection allows me to charge my iPod (3rd generation) and iPhone 4S but I cannot play music via that connection. The system is designed to allow playback through the USB, right? I plugged in a flashdrive and was able to play music. I have tried three cables and none allow the feed from the device into the audio system. I am able to connect into the Aux port and play music.
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How do you know if the inverter coolant pump/reservoir is bad after the recall was performed?Since it doesn't produce any codes but can reduce the electric-drive if getting too hot, how do you convince Toyota to give it a second look?
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Two weeks ago a large, industrial truck dropped a piece of bent steel pipe on the interstate in front of my 2010, 50k miles, Prius and (sadly) I was forced to hit or swerve into rush hour traffic and cause an accident. It tore up a good part of the cooling system and did some body damage. Of course I didn't know this at the time, but it began to overheat, so I pulled off the freeway and had it towed to a body shop. After about ten days, I got my Prius back.
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Recently, I've been having issues with my door locks. When exiting the car, and pressing the door lock on the outside handle, I would here the door lock solenoid fire once, then open, and the door would not lock. Same thing would happen when I used the FOB. The door would not lock. On occasion, I would get the door to lock, and stay locked by using the door lock inside the car when the door was open.
On the occasions when I did get the door locked, I then had issues unlocking. If I approached the drivers door to unlock the door, the car would just keep repeatedly beeping, and would not unlock the drivers door. But, the back door would unlock, so I could reach in, and open the drivers door from the back.
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My 1991 240 always had 2 working back up lights. After one of two garage visits recently (with them not working on my lighting), one of the two stopped working.
The last visit (a different garage) I just made with this time the mechanics working on a tail light issue as well as other stuff now has me with the 2nd back up light not working. Since one mechanic lost me the use of one and another mechanic lost me the use of the other.
How I can troubleshoot this and get one or both "back" on my own?
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I recently went to a local chain to have my oil changed and tires rotated. Later that evening when I went to turn on my headlights for the first time since the oil change neither one was working. When I brought back the car the next day to see if they could look at this to see if anything reset accidentally I was told that both lights were burned out and it was a coincidence. It seems unlikely that both headlights would go out at once (high beams were OK) and that it would have happened right after the oil change. I couldn't say what would have caused this but wanted other opinions on if it was likely related to the oil change.
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I have a 92 F250 with a 5.8 liter, manual trany with manual 4x4. We turned rear drums and new pads, pulled front hubs and replace inner and outer bearing, races, (everything) used proper lubrication ( prev lube was nasty) new shocks, greased all points, new rotors and pads, cleaned hubs. Put all back together, finally got it back from my brother, first snow fall and BAM no four high. Thought I had low, because it crawls slow, but later tried turning wheels to get it to lope and it does not.
When I try and go to 4h while driving, I hear a slight grind, go back to 2h and it is gone. It is a very slight grind noise. I also have a pretty good vibration in 2h when i hit 35 MPH to abot 50 MPH that was not there before, not sure if connected. Checked linkage, it seems to be fine. Jacked up front end, put trany and tc in neutral, get front axle to spin on one side, bound that side up and it transfers to the other side. I am hoping something in the hubs, that was the only thing we really messed with on the 4x4 system. The 4x4 was working last winter.
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A couple of months ago my Yaris was hit just behind the driver side door by a Ford F150, luckily traveling at a low speed. Other than body damage, my car seemed to be fine. After driving the car around for 2 weeks with the damage then taking it in for its 10 day repair, I brought home my wonderful little car. I live in Florida and even though it's winter, we had a rather warm day, just a couple days after bringing my car back home. I turned on the AC and ...nothing came out. So I tried it on higher settings and ...still nothing came out until I got to the highest blower setting. Suddenly it sounded like someone had turned a blender on inside my car but some air was making its way out of my blowers.
I called the shop that did my repairs and they said "well, you probably just blew a fuse. It's not accident related so we can't take care of it without charging you." My understanding was that I would not be able to get my blower to work at all if a fuse was blown, and my air certainly worked following the accident and prior to getting repairs done. If a fuse was blown, I'm willing to bet a lot of money that the shop was responsible. ...the fact that they also broke my glove compartment, got paint all over my seat, and made my car smell like a paint store also make me weary of using them again, but my insurance company swears by them. First of all, what is wrong with my car? Second of all, how do I fix it?
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Purchased my car in April of this year. Right at 2000 miles it began leaking oil and it was with dealer for over a week being repaired. Apparently it took so long because the engine had to be dropped to fix. At the time the dealer said they had 6 other 2015 350's with the same issue and were pushing for a recall. Now, a few months later and I have a puddle of oil under my car again. Very frustrating.
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