Prius (2010-12) :: ICE Warm Up When Moving Backwards
Jan 21, 2011
Ever since I got my 2010 Prius (about a week ago) I always get a little scare whenever I'm backing out of a parking place. The Prius seems to think that the ideal time to start the ICE to warm it up is when I'm moving backwards and halfway out of the spot... which, of course, causes a little vibration in the car and makes me think I hit or ran over something. It really scared me the first time... especially since I had only had the car a few hours then and I'm mostly used to it by now, but every now and then it catches me off guard.
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Have the HPA SHS installed now. Everything is aligned. Getting the worst clunk noise when moving the car backwards. The noise comes from the front right. Clunking with slight vibration felt in steering wheel. Also clunks when straightening out the wheel to move forward. The noise stops once I start going. What could cause this?
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So I put in new rotors and pads and everytime the car is backing up I get a weird grinding or squealing noise. I've driven the cars for hundreds of miles and this still happens. This only happens when going backwards. Anything to try???
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I've noticed that if I press the EV button when stopped at a stop sign or red light, I can get the vehicle moving up to 25 MPH with the battery. This must save fuel. But I wonder if I am doing something that causes problems with the battery, motor, or other systems.
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I've been experimenting with 'B' mode while commuting. While stopped at a light, the ICE never shuts down. Is that normal? It seems like it should, regardless of the drive mode. The ICE was fully warmed up (190 F). I believe the battery was fully charged, as well. It tends to stay charged while in B mode.
If I switch from Drive to B while stopped at a light, the ICE stays off until the car starts moving. But if it was in B mode already, it never shuts down when the car is stopped.
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When you put the car in park what exactly stops the car from moving. In other is it a brake of sorts or ??
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Normally I wait for the car to stop backing up before switching to drive. Today I tried switching to drive while still backing up. It coasted to a stop then went forward.
Is that safe for the traction motor?
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I have a 2013 RX 350 AWD and I'm wondering if it is equipped with hill assist. If so, how does it work?. On my other ride (Q50), the car won't roll backwards on a hill if I let go of the brake.
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In the last couple of months I have noticed my '10 Prius III begins to roll forward or backwards about a foot depending upon which drive mode I select without releasing the brake. So here's the normal scenario I get in the car have my foot on the brake, turn it on wait for the ready beep/light, my foot has never left the brake or lessened pressure but not so much as to trigger the hill assist, I shift into D to go forward but say a car is coming and I don't want to go yet my car moves about a foot forward and I feel the brake pump up and then resist my foot. The same thing happens if I put it in R she rolls back a foot and stops. I don't recall noticing it before the great ECU update but I also can't say it didn't happen before the update was accomplished.
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I have a 2004 gmc sierra and it is having heater issues. For a while now when starting it up cold it would not blow any warm air until the vehicle is moving. The other day while driving it would go back and forth between hot and cold.
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I remember that my 2005 Prius had a short whirring noise when I shut it off, as some coolant fluid was moved around.
But my 2010 Prius has been pretty quiet at shut-down, until recently (has it always been there, or now that it's cold weather?) I noticed there's a very faint whirring noise coming from the engine compartment at shut-down. It lasts for quite a while -- almost a minute, then stops.
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Our Prius is only a year old with less than 9,000 miles. Everything has been fine with it and then yesterday I took it out of the garage and started to drive and there was the most horrendous grinding/squealing/scraping noise as I started moving from the front passenger side (UK passenger, so left looking out).
I stopped the car and had a look, as at first I thought I was dragging something, but nothing to be seen. Checked the parking brake was definitely not engaged. I then thought perhaps something is caught in the brake pads and it will go in a bit, however even hard braking didn't seem to change the noise at all.
Carried on (I was going about 7 miles), and as I drove it would gradually get quieter, and then get louder again, with the occasional "clang" sound almost like a spring under tension suddenly moving.
Towards the end of the journey it had started to go quieter again, but with the window down you could still hear constant squeal/grind.
Parked the car, was away for an hour, came back and set off home and the noise was totally gone. Entirely silent all the way back home! Now I don't know what to do - whether it will come back, or whether I should take it in to garage for them to look (even though it's now not making any noise).
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This one comes just in time when the cold and bad weather has started! My car is exhibiting certain symptoms and I am trying to figure out whether this is an issue with physical duct and air passageway components, the computer or something else....
When I turn on climate control, the car will blow air temp according to the one inputted only when I am driving, as soon as I come to a standstill, no matter what temp i input in the CC on the center console, the air will be freezing cold.
Now I don't know if its the computer sending improper signals to the duct system, a bad sensor or some problem with the duct passageway system.
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I have a 2014 Hyundai SFS 2.4L with about 50,000 miles and love it so far. However, I have a concern, when I am driving on the highway or even back roads the air conditioning cranks real cold. However, when idling at a light there's an obvious temperature difference that is warmer. I have ECO "off" because when ECO was on it completely shut off the air when accelerating or idling. Is this a scroll compressor? The reason I ask is my FORD had a scroll compressor and exhibited the same symptoms and it turned out it was a $35 faulty valve, but convincing numerous shops it was, was the problem. Also, could it be low Freon? If so, does it take R-134A and is it something I can do myself?
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2005 Prius w/90,000 miles.
This morning I got in my Prius and started the car. I was waiting for my son and almost absentmindedly I put my foot on the gas enough to get the ICE revving up. The car was parked with a very slight incline forward (a few degrees at most). After a few seconds the car thumped backwards. It then continued to do that continuously with a thump about once a second. It's not a hard thump, but it's very noticeable.
It is almost as if a very small amount of power is being applied in reverse and then released quickly. I shut the car down and was able to replicate the issue. There are no error codes on my OBD2 and no unusual engine lights. Is it normal?
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My PRIUS makes noise at warm up stage and it was lasting three days.
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In all the previous Toyotas I've driven, you'd turn the intermittent wiper knob "up" to slow down the wipers and "down" to speed them up. And this behavior corresponded with the marking on the wiper switch where the marker line would be thicker at the top (which I assumed to mean wider gap in time between wipes) and thinner at the bottom.
However on our Prius v, the behavior seems backwards. While the markings are the same as other Toyota's, you turn the knob "down", toward the thinner part of the marker line to slow down the wiper and "up", toward the thicker part of the marker line" to speed up the wiper.
Is this the correct behavior for the Prius v?
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I can't believe what I'm saying as I always say to start driving (slowly) to warm up the engine. Besides, who has the time?
But, this AM, I was stopped as soon as I exited my driveway as big garbage trucks blocked my cul-de-sac street. The engine went through the warm up cycle as I waited stopped and later, I went through my usual commute.
The thing is the commute ended at 67 MPG (indicated). I usually get "only" 60 MPG on the very same route, unless the engine is prewarmed before driving and I get exactly 67 MPG. I always clear MPG trip counter before driving on a daily bases.
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It seems like it takes an awfully long time for the good mileage to get going from a cold start - even when it's warm outside. The last 5 miles of my commute are great, but the first 10 miles not so much. How much effect does ambient air temperature have on this process.
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Is this true that I it is nor possible to set destination while the vehicle is in motion? Even via voice command?
I often need to change destination or set a via point while I am driving, including on a highway. I do it via voice or ask my wife to set manually in such case. My MB allows it as well as every model of portable Garmin I've owned.
I heard that Navi on RX350 is blocking that. Is that true? How do you enter destination while you are on a highway? Let's say you need a gas station or a coffee shop, what do you do?
We are shopping for a new RX350 and this sounds like a deal breaker.
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So I was driving my husbands car the other day -it is a 2010 Ford Escape. He'd just had it in for the 75000 mile service and he'd had an oil leak and some sort of casing replaced to take care of that - and I stopped at a stop sign, turned the corner and 30 yards down the road, the gas peddle did nothing. I putted my way to the side of the road and the thing started shaking and all the lights were on on the dash. I put it in park and it still shook. Shut it off - exhaled deeply and turned the key in the ignition - nothing - but a distant sort of thugh,thugh,thugh,thugh with the wrench light on on the dash. Tried again and it started - and drove. Got home fine. My husband had the exact same thing happen to him, when he took it out so he took it back to the shop - they drove it for about 100 miles and couldn't get it to do anything like we described. They ran all sort of diagnostics and said they can't find anything wrong with the car.
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