Prius (2010-12) :: ICE Runs For 20+ Miles In HOT Weather
Jun 26, 2012
For the past couple weeks on the way home from work the ICE runs non-stop for 20+ miles. My drive is 25 miles and the weather has been 105+. In the morning everything seems to work fine. In the afternoon even with the AC off, battery almost fully charged the ICE does not shut off at all even at a stop. I even tried putting it in EV mode and it tells me Not Currently Available. My Prius is a 2012 3 with 5500 miles. Is this normal in hot weather or is there something wrong??? Also the mileage sucks, in the morning with the AC on, weather around 90 I get 55-58mpg. In the afternoon I get low 40's even with the AC off.
View 19 Replies
Advertisement
I am the original owner of a 2006 Prius with 98,000 miles on it. Three summers ago it developed a problem where on very hot days (well above 90 degrees) when first started it runs very poorly. It starts normally and has no trouble light come on. It does this even though the car may have sat in the sun for hours and the engine/cooling system is relatively cool. But for the first 5-10 minutes it hesitates and stumbles with acceleration (as if it had bad gas). In fact at first I thought it was a bad gas problem. It never actually stalls.
It does this with or without the air conditioning on. It runs fine the remainder of the year and runs OK when first started if parked in a garage or a shady area on a very hot day. I have replaced the spark plugs, air filter, oil & filter numerous times, & changed the transmission fluid-but still this problem persists summer after summer. The traction battery fan is always on from initially starting the car every time this problem occurs. Could this be a battery problem? And if not, what then?
View 14 Replies
How many miles can be driven after the computer tells you have zero miles left to empty? Or rather how many gallons do you think is left in the tank after the computer says you're empty?
View 19 Replies
I have a 2000 Honda Accord LX V6 auto with about 125k on it.It seems to me that when I'm going downhill for example - so I am not giving it gas - it feels like its running rough - sort of. It kind of feels like the brakes are being applied then released, applied then released.Now, once summer arrived and I had to start using the AC all the time, after the car was warmed up and having run for 20+ minutes, it would REALLY start running rough. I watch the tachometer and it bounces up and down. When I turn off the car for awhile like to go into the grocery store, when I come out and try to start it, it wont. It just cranks but wont catch. If I do manage to get it to catch, it stalls. I have managed to get it to catch-apply the gas and pop it in to drive and make it home, but something is obviously very wrong and I don't want to get stuck somewhere. I have a code reader and the car has not produced any codes.
View 4 Replies
Well, for the past few weeks the weather in Los Angeles had been a little on the cool side. I didn't notice the cooler weather, but I noticed that the computer says I was getting around 51 MPG for almost the entire tank (the warning was blinking so I think I used about 10 gallons).
Then today, the temperature rose to around 90 degrees. I noticed the heat. All of a sudden, my computer MPG rose to slightly above 52. I think that would be difficult to do as it must average out the entire tank an extra 1 MPG. And correct me if I'm wrong, but if I got 51 MPG over 10 gallons of gas, in order to raise the gas mileage by 1 MPG in the next gallon, I must get around 62 MPG for that last gallon.
View 19 Replies
I don't have a lot of data yet, but the last couple of times we had temps over 80F, my mileage took a significant hit - about as bad as when temps are below 20F (more than 10%)... Shutting off the A/C doesn't change things much...
View 19 Replies
Uneven throttle response during cold weather engine warm-up? When sub freezing weather arrived a few weeks ago my 2010 Prius developed uneven acceleration during engine warm-up. The car was purchased in October and it ha less than 3,000 miles.
Gradual depression of the accelerator results in a very small, tiny in fact, amount of increasing power to the wheels, not in proportion to the usual smooth and responsive amount of cold starts above freezing temperatures.
Continued depression leads to a point about halfway to the floor when the engine, which of course has been running all along, suddenly surges and the car takes off with a jolt of power. Not smooth, impossible to control well and unacceptable. Many would say this is unsafe.
My 2005 Prius never had, and my wife's 2007 does not have this issue. Could be a cold weather related accelerator defect as with the Camrys, but this is not mechanical sticking as was the case with the Camrys, its an electronics error like a faulty sensor or cold start injector.
View 19 Replies
In our recent -20 F cold spell in Chicago, I noticed the ride got very stiff, have others experienced this in very cold weather? My theory is that the oil in the shocks or dampers become extra viscous at these temps and the cold shocks causes the ride to becomes like that of a Honda Civic with a dropped suspension. (It's so amusing to watch those Civic "low riders" going over railroad crossings, but it's all image right????)
Anyway I would think the colder temps would lower the air pressure in the tires, softening the tires a bit, but perhaps the rubber hardens counteracting that benefit. I have Michelin Primacy BTW. Since temps went back up above about +10 F ride seem to be OK again.
View 18 Replies
I read about the white smoke and I found that is normal in cold weather!! Is that true and what do you think ?
View 12 Replies
When I purchased my car last year I ordered it with the remote starter. It works great unless the weather is 12 degrees or colder, then it will not start the car. This morning I tried to remote start, it started it for 2 seconds then shut off, I did it again with the same result. I then went out and physically started the car and went back inside only to go out 15 minutes later to find the car stopped running but the radio was still playing. I then restarted the car and again went back inside 15 minutes later the car this time it was still running and was just starting to melt the ice on the windows. I have had issues in the past with the remote starter not working but today I actually went to the door and listened to what it was doing.
View 6 Replies
My Chysler Town and Country started fine on a morning when it was 9 degrees. (no garage, so it was out in the weather.) I let it run for a couple of minutes so things would begin to thaw and then I drove to work. It ran really rough. I figured that once it warmed up, it would smooth out, but it did not. Even after the weather warmed up into the 50's 5 days later, it still runs rough. Now, I am also getting a check engine light. What could be wrong?
View 3 Replies
Truck in question has 175k, is the TBI version (fuel injected carburetor design), has had the plugs cap and rotor replaced fairly recently.
When cold, it starts and runs normally. As it warms (after around 20 miles) it starts running rough, then after getting warmer/full operating temp, it will stall at stop signs and runs very rich - so rich you can smell the unburned fuel. At this point it is also difficult to start and requires adding some gas pedal.
I am thinking a vacuum issue, or something that is not allowing it to transition from the warm up cycle to normal cycle.
View 1 Replies
Car starts runs rough for a few seconds then shuts off (spark plugs and 2 coils were replaced a few months ago). Coolant reservoir level was way low so I filled to the full line, kept the cap off to cycle. During the time the car starts, the coolant from the reservoir violently "boils" over (out of the reservoir). Huge amount of white smoke from the rear exhaust and a burning smell.
Used Techstream and got the following codes:
Engine and ECT: P0117, P0302, P3190, P3191
Hybrid Control: P0A0F
Intermittently get misfile codes but this time around they did not return.
View 10 Replies
I have a 2006 Pri with 194,000 miles on it that has been dead reliable & owes me nothing really, now developing a serious problem. Only when it is below about 10 deg F I will get total failure of the power braking system on or shortly after startup Has happened on 3 days this winter. ABS light, Brake warning, continuous high pitched beep (very annoying warning the driver of immanent death!
When this happens I get almost no movement on the brake pedal. It's rock hard & acts pretty much like loosing power brakes on any car (ie. you will eventually stop, but not a safe condition). There is no transition to this condition. It's either "everything normal" or total failure. Brake fluid reads half way between min & max and looks clean, no sign of moisture, but has never been flushed.
The last time it happened I was leaving work, couldn't swap cars... so I drove straight to the dealer (white knuckled). Dealer calls the next day saying it's the Brake Actuator needing replacement. I told them I wasn't spending that & to look again for a cheaper problem like Fluid, 12v battery, Relay...
No dice. They confirm it's the actuator.
The code they read is C1256. They "checked resistance at actuator pins & found high resistance at pins 1&2." I'm thinking about just topping up the fluid a bit more, or getting the fluid flushed & changed, or changing the 12v battery (I need to check voltage on next cold morning), or just not driving it at those temps & hoping it doesn't get worse.
View 14 Replies
On a hot sunny day, occasionally I have to be stopped for extended periods with the A/C running which means the engine will come on for a few minutes out of every 10 minutes or so. to charge the traction battery. Engine comes on at 2 bars and goes off at 3 bars.
As engine efficiency at idle is low, would it be better to put it in D with the brake firmly pressed and push the accelerator so that the engine speed is in the high efficiency range so as to produce more charge for the fuel burnt and maybe also I could charge it to a few more bars on the battery indicator?
View 19 Replies
Why when I am in hot weather it takes a long time for the a/c to start cooling off the car...
View 19 Replies
What would casue a clicking noise (like a sewing machine)under acceleration for the first several miles on a cold morning (50 degrees or below, we live in Louisiana)? Car is 2006 Chrysler 300C with 5.7L Hemi motor, 90,000 miles, all lifters replaced last summer - noise was apparent before new lifters. Dealership is stumped - they do not believe it is a problem with new lifters.
View 3 Replies
Have a 2014 Prius III. Was getting 50-60 mpg until i took it in for the 5k mile service. Immediately afterwards the mpg dropped to 43-50 mpg. It seems when the car is cold, it will start in EV mode for a few seconds and then the engine will kick in and it will not enter EV mode for the first few miles even with the battery 80% charged, driving under 20 mph, a/c off and keeping the Hybrid system indicator in what should be the EV range.
View 19 Replies
Have owned this car for 8 days and the wife is driving her normal traps, only shows having used 1/2 tank and over 240 miles, something must be wrong with this thing, must take back to dealer,
View 6 Replies
I drive about 25 miles each way to and from work. Almost since the day I've purchased the vehicle (6 months), I've learned and used the Pulse and Glide technique daily and I've become very good and comfortable with it. I usually get 65mpg on my way to work and 70+ on my way home.
However in the last couple of days, I've notice a significant drop down to low 50's with no change in my driving habits, route, or tire pressure. Also no work or maintenance has been done to the vehicle. Upon closer investigation, I've noticed that sometimes, well after the warmup stages, when I glide, the ICE stays on and the instant MPG meter only reads 50mpg instead of the infinity mpg it usually does.
It doesn't happen every time I glide, just sometimes. For example this morning after driving the entire 25 miles to work, the ICE stayed on during my last glide of the commute. At first I thought that maybe I didn't let my foot off the accelerated long enough, but further attempts with longer delays resulted the same result of the ICE not shutting off. Should I have the dealer look at the car? Am I missing something?
View 19 Replies
So I posted a while back that my oil at 13000 miles still looks clean at 34k on the Prius . Sent in an oil sample to Blackstone to see what's the break down on the oil. Like I said before I am impress with today synthetic oil and how well Toyota build their motor. Here is the result from blackstone.
Talk to the lab person who analyze the oil. He said he's pretty impressed with Prius motor. He said with the results I can probably go 20k to 25K miles before the next Oil Change look at the result there hardly any breakdown in the oil but their Blackstone wants to analyze the oil at 2000 miles increments.
View 10 Replies
