Prius (2010-12) :: How To Detect That Car Has Synthetic Oil
Aug 29, 2010
My car is less than a week old. My salesman told me that my 2010 Prius III has conventional oil in it. However, one of the sales managers said all 2010's come with synthetic from the factory. The pamphlet with the owner's manual says it has synthetic oil as well. I don't know the advantages of going to synthetic, but I know you can't switch over later.
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iOS 8.4. When I turn on my car it will not detect my iPod. The only way to get it to detect it is to shut the car off and turn it back on. Also it no longer will resume to where my iPod left off when shutting down the car. Having problems with iOS 8.4?
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My 2010 Fusion SE has 44,500 miles on it. It is the 4cyl. model with a 6 speed manual transmission. I have had the oil changed every 4-5,000 miles, never had any issues. Today when I went in to get the oil changed the guy told me a synthetic blend is required, and he wanted to charge me an extra 20 bucks for the oil change. I looked up in owners man. and it says SAE 5W20 and some Ford nomenclature for the minimum requirements for quality, etc. My question is this, why haven't any of my other oil changes required an up charge to a more expensive oil? I would have noticed. Does this car really need synthetic blend, and if so, is it really better than conventional oil? Have my previous oil changed damaged the car?
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I have the 2010 prius V with the 17in tires. I love the rims on them Vs the hubcaps on the other models.
HOwever I have read that it is hard to hypermile with the 17in rims. SO I was trying to figure out what I can do to raise that MPG up there. I have noticed that my prius does not glide well.
I have 2LBs more air in the tires then it says on the side. mine say 60LB so i have 62.
My only thought is to running Amsoil 0w30 oil and amsoil synthetic tranny fluid. I know on a regular gas car you can up your MPG at least 2 MPG or more.
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Our Prius just passed 100K miles and I am no longer covered by any warranty on the ICE. I have been regularly changing oil every 5K using Castrol oil & Toyota filters but am planning to switch to Mobil 1 and changing interval to 10K. I change my own oil and we put lots of miles (30-35K/yr) mostly long distance traveling.
There have been some old wives tales about changing to synthetic oil on cars with a lot of miles. I assume that they are just that - old wives tales. I am fairly convinced by other posts here that going to 10K intervals is OK.
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I need to clean the TB and MAF/MAP. Where are they on engine and what is the best way to clean them? Also, what is the best technique to detect vacuum leak?
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Car does not detect the keys even after changing the batteries of the keys. what could be wrong?
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I have an '07 ES350. I was riding my motorcycle today and the key to my Lexus fell out of my pocket at 140mph. I recovered it to find that it popped semi-open. The key battery had become loose and damaged. The microchip looks just fine, as well as the key fob itself. I replaced the key battery and the key was not detected by the car. I used the procedure to start the car by holding the fob up close to the start button. It worked just fine, but the key fob will no longer lock and unlock the car.
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I have an 07 350 without the navi system. Is it possible to add the sensors that detect how close you are getting to a car in front (or behind) you?
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I had recently purchased a 2010 S used corolla , its a very good car but i'm facing a problem with my remote control , i have to get very close to the rear window so it responds, I had change the battery of the remote but problem still exists.
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This will be my first winter using a dedicated set of winter tires and wheels on my 09 Camry. The set doesn't have TPMS sensors. Will the TPMS light constantly flash or just stay lit when the system doesn't detect the sensors? I could live with the light always lit but if it flashes it will be annoying.
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I have a 2014 F 450 and today one of my trailers will not engaged the brakes and it is saying on the display that there is no trailer connected. I cannot engage the brakes manually with switch.
I have running lights, I have brake lights I have hazards lights and turn signals. The brakeaway switch is not engaging the brakes when removed, I hooked up to another trailer of mine and it recognized and acknowledged being hooked to a trailer.
So... I know it is something with the trailer but what wire I should be looking at on the trailer?
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How much would it harm a car to put "regular" engine oil in it instead of the recommended synthetic oil...
...if I did it just once?
...if I did it regularly?
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From what I've read here Synthetic oil can expose leaks in an older engine oil because of greater cleaning properties that removes sludge build up. I bought my Ford E350 110K, 2 months ago and the oil was changed at that time. I've put 2K on it since and the oil is still very clear on the dipstick but not quite to the full mark. Would the still clear looking oil indicate a well maintained engine and a probable lack of sludge? Would it therefore be safe to change to Mobil 1 or similar product?
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Let's change from conventional oil to synthetic nothing but the best for my old 65, c-10, 6 cylinder. Now she smokes all the time. Tell me it is not too late to switch her back to conventional oil. I have been told yes I can and no I cannot. What I may have done that can or cannot be undone?
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Looking for changing transmission fluid to synthetic with next change. '05 Camry LE V6 with 100,000 miles. The fluid was changed last year by the previous owner, but as with many other new owners, I like to change out most/all fluids so I have a fresh start. Any issues with changing to a synthetic or is the Toyota fluid already synthetic/semi ? Also, would you consider 100,000 miles too high to change the engine oil to full synthetic ? Oil was changed by the dealer when purchased 2 weeks ago and still looks like new, but prefer using a full syn as with the wife's car, my Highlander, and my Harley.
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My CPO '11 Lux has a strong odor coming from the air vents. First thought it might be some kind of air freshening canister that was injecting the fragrance, but now wondering if I have an antifreeze leak???
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I have a 07 camry I4 with 56,900+ miles and it was using 10w30 conventional oil, but recently (2 weeks ago) I change it to 5w30 Mobil1 synthetic and today notice at start up white smoke, it didn't do this before with the conventional oil.
Is this normal with this type of change from conventional to synthetic or should I worry and try to go back to conventional and see if it stop.
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Last night I mistakenly poured a small amount (less than 1/4 cup, approx) of synthetic motor oil (5w30) into the power brake reservoir of my 2008 Cadillac STS. It was too late for a garage to be open, and I was about 80 miles from home. I tried to scoop as much of the oil as I could out of the reservoir with my fingers, then drove it home with no problems. Other than leaving all future maintenance to the pros, is there anything else I should do now?
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I recently posted a thread about my 2011 5.0L F-150 making a knocking sound that I was unsure about. Here's a link to that thread. [URL] ....
But my question here is about oil. My truck is still making that damned noise, it seems more audible sometimes and less so others. But it ONLY happens when the engine gets warmer. The noise is completely absent when I do a cold start in the mornings. I've been trying to figure out if it always made that noise or not...I do remember a few years ago when the truck was brand new, pulling up at a drive through window for coffee and noticing that there seemed to be an excessive amount of engine noise echoing off the brick building. But other than that it never sounded out of place to me.
I only started noticing this knock after my most recent oil change, which for the first time ever in this truck, I went from using the Standard issue Motocraft 50/50 synthetic blend oil to using Mobile full synthetic.
Now, I could be totally off base with this...But is it possible that my trucks engine is making more noise due to the thinner synthetic oil? I am considering going back to the MC 50/50 blend oil to see if it makes a difference. Also it's worth noting that this knock really only seems to be present below 1000RPMS. When I'm actually driving and pulling between 1500 and 3000 RPMS the engine itself sounds and feels as smooth as butter. On that note, it idles perfectly smooth as well...It's just the noise below 1K RPMS.
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Having issue with synthetic oil (Rotella T6) causing leaks in the 6.7? I'm getting ready for my first oil change and I don't want to have an issue like I did with my 7.3 leaking from the oil pan gasket when I used synthetic.
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