Prius (2010-12) :: How To Deplete Battery If It Is Only Allowed To Vary Between 60 And 80%
Oct 27, 2013
On the battery level gauge, it generally varies between two bars on the graph up to one bar from the top. I've read that this variance indicates 60% charge at the two bars and 80% charge at the one bar from the top position. So the battery is only depleted to 60%, then the ICE comes on and charges the battery. My confusion comes from several posts that say it's bad to deplete the battery and I agree that it's bad, but how do you deplete the battery if it is only allowed to vary between 60 and 80%?
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When battery is low (purple bars IN DISPLAY) EV mode is not allowed, obviously; but WHY is it not allowed when the battery is full or nearly full (green bars on display) ?
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How to travel at freeway speeds in a Prius PHV and cause the EV miles to deplete?
To explain, I regularly travel between two homes with charging capabilities. One is three miles from the highway, the other one mile. If I use EV driving to and from the highway, and travel on the highway in HV above 65 MPH, I arrive at the other destination with about 10 miles of unused EV mile capability. I would like to use this extra electricity to improve my HV mileage.
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If my traction battery has plenty of 'juice' in it, and my 12v battery is dead....is there any way to 'jump' the 12 volt battery with the traction battery to get the car started?
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I have owned this 85 Chevy Van all its life and when I take it on trips I like to use the cruise control. The last few years the cruise engages and works except that it seems to hunt or vary the speed up and down a couple of miles an hour. I replaced the servo figuring that it was just old and leaking vacuum. Well the new one behaved exactly the same. So what else is there? The electronics module? I have looked everywhere under the hood and under the dash with no luck. Manuals don't even include the cruise system. What is the location of the module?
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1990 Cherokee 4.0 ... Well I've got a minor clunking somewhere under there that seems to vary with speed. now I have to figure out what it is. my working theories are wheel bearing, or one of the three hundred odd universals under there. perhaps a brake shoe or the transfer case. This is my first 4wd, so I don't know about transfer cases.... there is also some kind of weird double universal under there, I can t remember the name off the top of my head.
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I have a 2016 f250 bought in December with an ac problem. The temperature in ky has heated up the last month and the ac has not been able to keep up. The fan seems to work properly but, the air temps seem to vary while on the same setting(max). The problem also varies from nonexistent to mildly bad to horrible. The ford dealer found low side pressure at 60psi and the high side at 300 psi. At idle. Evac and recharge and test. Within a day or two, same problem. A week later at the dealer. Low side 50. High side 275. Found and replaced sticking expansion valve. Road tested and passed. Again within a day or two same thing. Yesterday it was 100 outside and the vent temp was 65-70 degrees. Today at home I ran the ac 4 or 5 times and is was cooling around 45-48 degrees. The outside temp was not as hot today as yesterday. The truck is the lower trim lariat with the dual zone ac. It does not have the voice command. The service advisor was going to consult with the service manager and discuss what to do and to discuss opening what he called a "hot line" to ford. This truck is rapidly getting too much shop time for a new truck.
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1996 olds 88lss. My EGR valve melted and allowed coolant in my air intake. I replaced the plastic upper intake manifold and egr valve and its spacer sleeve. Put everything back together and engine won't start now. I have compression, spark, and fuel. Replaced ignition module and crank position sensor and still no combustion. Plugs, wires, ignition module, compression, fuel pressure, injector resistance, crank position sensor, new battery.
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I have a 2004 FX4 4x4 ... Four wheel drive is not working!!!!! Turn the dash switch to 4High or 4Low and the lights come on in my dash gauge cluster. So my 4x4 lights come on as if the 4x4 is working but my front wheels do not turn. What I have done:
Drove the truck forward while I watched the front drive shaft going from the transfer case to the front differential. Did this in 2WD and then in 4WD high. While driving forward in 2WD the front drive shaft did not move. Once put into 4WD high and driven forward the front drive shaft was turning. I guess this tells me that my transfer case and shift motor are working?
I jacked up my driver side front wheel and turned the tire by hand while the truck was running in 2WD. The tire spun freely and the CV axle (half shaft) did not turn. Then turned 4x4 dash switch to 4WD high and turned the tire again by hand and the CV axle turned while turning the tire. I guess this indicates that the IWE actuator was working....I guess???
Repeated the process above for the front passenger side of the truck and the tire would always spin freely regardless if in 2WD or 4WD. I could not get the CV axle to turn while spinning the tire on the passenger side when the truck was running and switched to 4WD
I checked the vacuum solenoid near the battery mounted on the firewall. The vacuum line supplying vacuum to solenoid was working and pulling vacuum. I did a series of test in conjunction with the dashboard 4x4 selector and the Vacuum Solenoid seemed to be working properly.
Crawled under the truck while the engine was running and pulled the vacuum line off the nipples of each IWE Actuators (drive and passenger side) put my finger over the lines and felt decent vacuum at each end of each vacuum line.
So dash switch and 4x4 light works stays on solid and bright does not flicker
Vacuum solenoid and vacuum lines seem to be working
Transfer case and shift motor seem to be working
Driver side IWE actuator seems to work
Front passenger side Actuator does not seem to be working??? Why I am so confused about this is because in HOURS of Internet research it seems that this Actuator is not allowed to engage by vacuum pressure. When I disconnect the vacuum line to the passenger side actuator I expected to hub to lock, but it did not, the tire would turn but the CV axle wouldn't? If I replace the passenger side IWE actuator will this fix my four wheel drive? Or is there something else I am missing??
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Is the Optima D51 battery the best buy for my 2010 Prius and do I need the installation kit too? Is that kit only available from Eleanaid?
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I own 7 taxi's 5 of them are 2nd generation and 2 of them are 2010's . I have had a couple 2008's that had over 600,000km before they were written off in accidents and the origional battery was still working fine. They certainly were not 100% but still were running ok.
I just ordered a hybrid battery for my 2010 that has 280,000km. Very disappointed. Another taxi broker with our company has 3 2010's and he has replaced the battery in 2 of them.
I talked to a mechanic at Toyota and he says the battery is getting too hot because there is not as good of venting to keep it cool as the 2nd generation has. The 20 hour + days and the battery being so hot compared to the 2nd generation is to hard on the battery.
The 2010's have all had transaxle problems and the 2nd generation never had any work done on the transaxle which was amazing the way we eat transmissions in out taxi's.
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I noticed it literally when pulling off the lot when I bought it. I only hear it when the car is in drive or reverse, only when gas engine is not running. It is a specific pitch hum. It stops when I hit the brake, and begins again as soon as I take my foot off the brake pedal, only when transmission is in gear. My 2010 Prius II doesn't make this noise.
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This is my first year driving my prius during a hot season, and for past 3 weeks my mpg has dropped from 49 to 41-43 mpg, and the reason is my traction battery keeps getting HOT! I can hear the battery cooling fan turning on constantly at max when i reach 20 mph, my car doesn't want to start in EV mode the engine just kicks in no matter how light you press the throttle, the EV motor is not assisting with the engine, the infamous slow rpm drop keep occurring and I when to touch the traction battery case and it its HOT, Ive open up the case to check for any dust on the fan and ducts but so far its spotless. I really wished they place an AC vent for the battery because the back passenger area with full A/C doesn't t get as cold as the front dose which doesn't cool off the battery.
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I have a 2011 prius. Lately after work when i get back in the prius the battery will be half what it was when i parked it in the morning. Is my battery dying already. im at 36,000 miles
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How do i replace the key battery?
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2012 Prius
Got home from driving. Then 15 minutes later went out to the car to head out again. Car would not start or recognize key fob. One of the two.
Headed back to my computer and researched how to charge key fob. Went back into car, pressed down brake and held key up to start button. Have done a lot of variations of this. The light with the key and car on it was flashing periodically.
Got new battery entirely for fob, installed and still could not start car. Tried the key charging again. Still nothing. At one point I was able to turn the radio on but the display did not come on for the car itself, just the radio and sound.
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I've noticed that if I press the EV button when stopped at a stop sign or red light, I can get the vehicle moving up to 25 MPH with the battery. This must save fuel. But I wonder if I am doing something that causes problems with the battery, motor, or other systems.
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I am in the market for a used Gen III regular Prius. I know that battery in Gen III is smaller in size and weight, so energy density is greater. That's great. But I wonder if you've seen high mileage (>200K) Gen III owners experience battery performance deterioration, like someone experienced in Gen II.
My 2004 with 220K miles only get 44mpg in this summer temp. (I drive it a little bit aggressive, use AC, and don't care much about hypermilling) I think at least partly it is due to weaker HV Battery. I can clearly feel that now it is easier for engine to rev very hard when accelerate at 50 mph. That's not the case before.
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It seems like the fan that cools the hybrid battery pack turns on quite often, almost everyday after two or three hours of driving. I heard it once or twice on my '05, but on this one I hear it pretty much everyday.
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I was just wondering... I am in the navy so i'm called to go away quite often sometimes for extended periods.
I have read that the 12V battery will discharge itself if it the car is not being used frequently because it has the memory for everything (radio channels, time, trip meters, etc)
My question is how long is it safe for me to just leave the car parked in my driveway without disconnecting anything and when should i disconnect it?
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My prius gen 3 battery failed at 150000km and the other prius gen3 in my city battery failed between 130000 and 180000 km.
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