Prius (2010-12) :: How To Clean / Replace Battery Fan Filter
Aug 4, 2010
Was cleaning my car yesterday and noticed what looked like fluff through the battery vent in the rear seat.
View 7 RepliesWas cleaning my car yesterday and noticed what looked like fluff through the battery vent in the rear seat.
View 7 RepliesI have a 94 F250 5.8 liter with 96K miles. Can I remove the fuel rail and clean or replace the filter that is placed at the top of the fuel injector?
View 10 RepliesHow do i replace the key battery?
View 2 RepliesI brought my Prius, 128,000 miles, into the dealer with the check engine light on. Runs fine, and checked the gas cap. Toyota dealer said they need to replace 4 fuel injectors, replace oxygen sensor, and clean the throttle body. Check engine light needs to be off so I can pass emission test.
View 8 RepliesBought a 2013 model last spring. Yesterday, When I made a trip to airport for dropping my girl friend off. I drove it back about 35miles to home. A/C ON makes terrible smell. Immediately I suspect for condition of cabin air filter from my experience from the past. After I switched it back and forth of recirculation switch. I am pretty sure it is involving with. Now I tried to reach it. But I can not figure out how to take grove box rid with out giving a damage. Even it may not there behind a glove box (my wild guess).
View 2 RepliesI'm thinking about removing my perfectly functioning HV Battery to inspect it for corrosion and clean if necessary. I read so many posts both here and elsewhere that talk about corrosion being the number one reason Gen I HV Batteries fail. With that in mind, does it make sense to clean the corrosion off the battery (and related components) in an effort to extend the life of the battery.
The car is an '01 with 109,XXX miles, original traction battery, new 12V battery. The car has been very good to me (I believe that's due to steadfast preventative maintenance). There are no error codes and really nothing to complain about.
So there I was doing a simple oil change and when I took the filter out I noticed the little spring on top, in the center of the big spring (oil filter adapter) cocked to the side with the little plastic piece broken.
does anybody know if I can replace just the oil filter adapter (spring thingy that goes in the middle of the filter when installed) or do I have to replace the whole filter bowl assembly? And if so where would be a good place to get this part?
I'm just curious because I bought my car with 17,500K and it was originially from Dusty Arizona. The stock air filter was filthy! It was covered it dirt/grass/debris. So, I put a new K&N filter in at about 19K and just did the first cleaning today with 45K. It was coated in bugs! Tons of little bugs especially what looked like bees and almost larva! I used the K&N filter cleaner after tying to dislodge as many of those bugs as possible.
I then used the power washer from a good distance to spray it down good. I then looked at the filter in the sun and could see lots of bugs still lodged in their. I used I flat head to get quite a bit more grime/bugs out before spraying it down with the oil. I then put the filter in a bag with paper towels and spun it around to get any excess oil off the filter.
Anyways, I just wanted to say waiting 25-26K miles between filter cleaning/changes is WAY too long IMO.
I was having problems with my 2010 Prius, when I would try to put gas in it the pump would cut off after a small amount of gas. It would take quite a while to fill up the car. I took it to a Toyota Dealer and the problem was a plugged up charcoal canister, which they cleaned out. I live on a gravel road.
My question is, how to clean out the canisters? Can you just use an air hose? I'm sure running around with a plugged up canister can not be good for the car.
I'm checking my fuel filter regular (draining, examining.....basically OCD **** stuff) and I'm spilling diesel around the bowl. I've learned to put a rag around it now, but what's best way of cleaning diesel around that area? I'm tired of my wife complaining about smell. Simple green, purple power, etc???? Also, tell me what to watch out for.
View 14 RepliesMy '04 F250 6.0L has 220k on it. I've had the EGR serviced several times and, unfortunately, the intake manifold boiled out in one of those services.
The engine light is on now and I've got "EGR Performance Problems" just below 2000RPM most of the time but not all of the time (runs better when warmed up)
I've been unemployed for quite sometime so I'm going to have to make this fix myself.
First question, of course, is should I plan to clean or replace the valve?
The second is how to clean the manifold chambers (? right word? The carbon accessible when the EGR is removed. I've seen people on YouTube scraping them with what looks like brake tools. Is there an appropriate tool or chemical?
The third question is is it going to be very difficult removing an EGR valve that may have carbon buildup on it? Too difficult for an aging seldom mechanic to think about tackling?
I guess those are good starter questions. I didn't know until today that EGR cooler may also be part of the problem. Unlike many of the people who post here, I have not kept good repair records. I don't know when I last had my EGR valve replaced at the Ford dealership but it was probably 50,000 miles ago.
We have had our Ford 6.7 diesel for a week today and on the way home I am pretty sure it did a regen. It flashed up and said "clean exhaust filter, then the miles per gallon dropped to down around 11 from 15.5 rather quick. The truck smelled really hot and we drove it for about 35 miles to home and MPG started going up and now it's ok. The thing that stumped me was that the truck only has 620 miles on it vs 6.7 miles it had when we bought it last weekend.
View 11 RepliesI've been having frequent, low speed, short trips lately and have been seeing the 'Cleaning Exhaust Filter' message pop up. Given that I have only been mere minutes from my destination in each case, I thought 'good luck with that'.
Today I see the 'Drive to Clean' message, followed by the 'Cleaning Exhaust Filter' message which stayed on (I have been used to it appearing for only a second or two.)
It should all be fine tomorrow though as I have a longer trip planned.
I am at 34,600 miles and had the oil changed yesterday afternoon. My son picked the truck up for me and on his way home the "drive to clean exhaust message" came on with the "check engine light" at the same time. I get home from work, re-check owners manual and no mention of the check engine light coming on with the drive to clean message.
I called my service rep and he says drive it as per owners manual, so I head out drive about 45 miles, averaging 60 mph nothing changes, both lights/messages are still on. Truck seems to be running fine and the last cleaning exhaust message was Sunday and I believe I was out long enough for it to do its job. It will go into the shop tomorrow, but was looking for thoughts from the the rest of you pros before I go.
I mention the oil change only because after the last oil change at around 30,000 miles I drive to work 2 days after and my water pump starts leaking.. coincidence I know.. but getting freaked out as I approach 36000 miles..Truck is a 2011 and I bought it new in Jan of 11.
I need to replace the main battery on my 2003 prius - whether or not they've replaced the battery, and what the end result was afterwards - did the car continue to last? Is this just a "regular maintenance' thing and all else will work swell, or is the beginning of the end?
View 12 RepliesAbout 1500 miles ago, I replaced a cell in the battery pack. Now the triangle of dead is back and the code is "replace battery pack" again.
I tested all the cells and here are the results.
(the previous one I replaced was 4.5 volts, very low and easy to find)
Recently my 2nd gen Prius has been acting, strange. I hoping to get some insight to the best way to fix the problem, so I will include as much detail as I can.
Over the weekend I went to go run some errands and while I was leaving my neighborhood, my dash lit up like a Christmas tree, with the red triangle, CEL, low tire pressure, and the exclamation on the MFD. So I quickly turned around and parked it back in my garage.
A little later and after doing some research on the forum here, I began to troubleshoot, at which point the feeling of dread was at the pit of my stomach and decided to go to the local auto store and have the code read. It was of course the "P0A80 - Replace Hybrid Battery Pack" the exact message I didn't want it to be.
So I turned around and went back home, the entire time all the lights stayed on and monitored the SOC of the traction battery. It was charging, just increasing and decreasing quicker than usual.
Was crushing around and received the red triangle, check engine, DSC, etc. pulled two codes from my scan gauge P3022 (bank 12 low) and PoA80 (replace hv battery). Car was in limp mode, engine running full time, battery gauge showed hv battery depleting.
After reviewing other stories online, seems as though I might be looking at a new battery. Car is 2006 with 112,000 miles.
I went to VW and on the invoice sheet states that it recommends the air filter being replaced in july. How can I be sure when to replace air filter? Does it pop on the menu screen?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2007 toyota prius. The car drives, but pulsates. The Check engine light and triangle of death are on. Diagnostic test says "replace hybrid battery pack", but wouldn't the car not even start if the bat pack were dead? What it could be? perhaps a bad cell or two? a bad ecu?
View 19 RepliesI did it about two years ago following steps on here but i forgot where to hold the engine cover to take it off, it can be broken if done incorrectly so where to grab that cover to pull it off?
View 2 Replies