Prius (2010-12) :: How Hard Is The Hatch Supposed To Slam Shut
Mar 30, 2016
2010 prius III. Just got it about a month ago and I've noticed that when I go to close the hatch, it slams pretty hard. I feel like the struts will hold up the hatch to about 2/3 of the way down then it just drops really hard and slams shut while rattling the spoiler so hard I feel like it's going to fall off. Is this normal, or should I look into maybe replacing the struts?
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Ok, I'm not sure how to explain this, but I've noticed with some cars, you can slam the car doors real hard any something stops them from slamming and shaking everything. It seems that some seal or something in the door construction deals with that extra energy without giving you the impression you are slowly causing the car to fall apart. But not with the Prius. In fact, I have regular passengers who know my pet peeve and try not to slam the door and still have trouble *not* doing it.
What the name for this effect is, why the Prius has this problem, what it is that other cars have done to prevent it, and if there is something I can do about it, like an after-market modification?
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When I close my boot door, I am finding I am having to slam it shut because it keeps bouncing open. I've take my car too toyota and they come out with, I have to have front car door open for it to shut first time, (but it still bounces bk open). I personally think its the boot catch not working as it should...
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I cannot lock my prius hatch door. It will shut but the lock does not engage. Apparently the lock is broken. Can I order the part and have a mechanic friend do it for me as Toyota want to charge $200 to install it. The part from Toyota is $210.
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Hard shifting from the car. sort of a slam between gears and while in gear.
Possibly a mount?
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My 2001 f150 4x4 with a 4r70w start slaming hard. Once at speed in overdrive it ran fine. Then driving around 25 it would be fine for a minute or so then I could feel it binding up then a hard slam. Then it would drive fine for a minute and do it again. Mechanical? Electronic? Torque converter?
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This is the second year I've owned my 2007 Prius, and it seems to be getting worse.
In the summer, the hatch will open with ease! The handle recognizes my hand there and unlocks the hatch and whammo bammo we're in business. In the winter, especially the really really cold weather like we're having now (down to about 10 over night) the hatch refuses to open.
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My Prius is unlocked and the hatch will not open. When I press the button on the hatch nothing happens. What could the problem be?
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Is there some sort of battery drain when hatch is raised, even though the courtesy light has been manually turned off? Seems like I read something about this recently, and don't want to damage the 12v if it's true...
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I need to find a way to limit the rear hatch opening ... or find a taller wife.
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I'm getting a rattle in the hatch area -- making a sound as if the hatch is moving independent of the body.
Sound like the hatch is loose -- but it's not. If I grab hold of the wing and try and move the hatch ---- it's tight and I get no sound.
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I had a friend drive my car while I was in the rear hatch area trying to find a bad rattle. I discovered that it is inside a large plastic panel just where the rear window wiper motor would be. I'm sure if I could safely remove this large panel, I could find out what the rattle is and quiet it.
How to remove this panel? Are there some hidden bolts or screws? I don't want to force-pry it off if that is not the proper way to remove it. I'd sure rather do this myself than go thru the dealer rigmarole.
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I've had my 2010 for about 17months and 16k miles. Early on, I remember that I was able to easily close the rear hatch by just lightly yanking down on the handle, and gravity would do its thing. However, these days, I need to pull down much harder to get it to close in one try. Should I try to lube the hatch shocks and hinge? Or do I need to clean them first somehow?
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My wife tried to close the hatchback door on our 2010 Prius I, something was in the way, she forced it and now I can't get the door to unlock. I tried the manual door release which is small metal lever on the lock assembly (as covered in the user manual); however, the lock won't release the striker. I've unbolted the lock assembly to see if the striker was jammed in the lock mechanism. I can now rock the lock assembly back and forth and I don't see any foreign objects in the locking mechanism, but still cannot open the lock. How to manually open the lock mechanism (is there somewhere I can apply pressure to force the mechanism to open and release the striker)? Again, the metal lever discussed in the user guide does not work.
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I've got a cheap little ELM327 dongle that I was able to use to fix the dreaded backup beep on my 2013 Trim 2. What I'm looking for now are the codes to change the keyfob function so that the first press of the unlock button hits all the doors and the hatch - currently it just unlocks the driver door. (note: this is distinct from the number of doors that unlock when I touch the driver handle - I am aware of the "press both buttons" trick for that).
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Is there a way to open the rear hatch if battery is disconnected either from the inside or outside? Is there a cable or something for emergency?
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Having problems with the vertical rear hatch window shattering? Mine is completely shattered, only the tint is holding it together. I can't see a single impact point (and don't think I backed into anything). It looks like a network evenly distributed over the entire rear window. But maybe this is the way safety glass breaks when it is hit at one point???
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The release hatch in back of the 2010 thru 2015 Prius is horrible in the winter. It freezes and gets stuck causing the back hatch not to open. Maybe they should have had some kind of setup like the back window defroster where it defrosts the hatch...
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I bought a 2012 prius 4 with 42k miles recently. The car is just too loud. I've determined the "noise" to be the rear hatch bouncing when I drive over small bumps in the road. The bounce creates an air pressure change that is just too unacceptable. I've milled the hatch lock mechanism's holes into slots to I can close the hatch tighter. This made a little improvement. My next step will be to add some gasket material on the hatch itself so it closes tighter. My slots allow the hatch to bottom out so I had to back off the adjustment a bit.
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I took them off and can not install them back in since I put some sound insulator on the proof. I also lost 1 metal clip somewhere on the ceiling, where can buy new one, and what is the part number for it?
When I push the sun visor, only the clip stay on the ceiling, the sun visor will fall down. It drives me crazy whole day How the white plastic part (electric connect to sun visor) suppose to be attach to the ceiling.
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I just got a new 2006 and the spoiler shakes when I close the hatch. Is there a way to get in there and tighten things down/make sure I'm not missing some bolts?
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