Still getting used to my 'new to me' 2011 Prius II. I am loving the car it's a joy to drive, very smooth and quiet.
When I pull the car out of the garage it's obvious when the ICE starts. But after that I never am aware of the starter being used at all.
Is it just road noise that prevents me from hearing it? Or is it like a manual transmission car that you restart by letting out the clutch once it's rolling?
I have a 2010 F150 SCREW with 4.6l 3v 4wd. Up to 100,000 miles nothing more than tires, brakes, and evap purge valve (50,000 miles). Check engine light came on right around 100,000 miles and had no driving problems other than some crappy fuel mileage. Did the following:
Changed evap purge valve, reset cpu by unplugging. CEL came back on after about 200 miles
Took the truck to a shop to get oil change, change plugs, diff fluids, transfer case fluid and get CEL looked at. Shop recommended changing intake gasket as you could see gummy type fluid on passenger side valve cover. When removing the intake found the intake cracked, changed gasket and intake. They reset the light. 200 to 250 miles later the CEL came back on.
Took it back to the same shop, left it with them for the weekend. they think it could be the O2 sensors. I went out and got the shop all 4 O2 sensors and they installed for free (seeing as I spent $2500 with them for all the previous weekends work) 200 to 250 miles CEL came back on
Determined to find time to have another shop look at the problem and trying to get it to a family friend, wasted about a month. At the end of February stopped at a friends house after being there for 20 minutes tried to start truck, it wouldn't fire. It would crank but no fire. Called for a tow and while waiting tried to crank the truck and it fired up, like nothing was wrong. Cancelled the tow truck and drove right to dealership. They determined it was the MAF sensor. Spent the $500 to have them diagnose and change MAF. All things good for about a month and about 3000 miles...
Now in the past 2 weeks it has done the following: I am a construction manager so i am in and out of my truck all day so the engine is never really a cold start except for the mornings when driving to work, it stalled while leaving work on a Friday at low speed. luckily I was able to pull in to a gas station. Tried to restart and it cranked but no fire. after 5 minutes or so tried again, fired up drove home the 35 miles with no problem, truck had power, smooth idle. No CEL.
Same weekend on Sunday, coming home from church at highway speed truck got sluggish, wrench light came on, no response to throttle. Rolled to a stop and then the oil light came on and chime from dash. Turned the key all the way off waited 10 seconds, again crank but no start. Waited 5 minutes and it fired up no problem. Church is only 3 or 4 miles away, no problem going to church, 2 miles into the trip home is when it stalled.
Drove all week, 500 plus miles without a stall or problem
Coming home on Saturday from my kids soccer game again 4 or 5 miles away (no problem going to game) truck stalled at highway speed. Coast to a stop, wrench comes on and then oil light, chimes from dash. Turn key off, wrench and oil light do not come back on. Try to start, again crank but no fire. waited the 5 minutes or so and it fired up fine. (Earlier in the day i got gas, 87 octane, from a one of my regular gas stations from 1/4 tank to full)
Today coming home from church but running an errant the truck stalls after making a left turn about 3 miles from the church at low speed.
All of this without a CEL. What can solve this problem. Clean a sensor? clean throttle body? Gas tank additives? I am due for an oil change and may ask the dealer to look at it but its going to be time consuming as I cant radially repeat the problem and there is no CEL. As I am thinking about the different times it stalled, other than the first time I was probably around 1900 to 2300 rpm.
My wife's 2010 Prius IV died on the highway at 65 mph; just shut down at speed and would not restart. She had it towed to the dealer and there it's been now for 5 weeks! The tow truck operator was able to drive up on the flat bed using EV, but no engine. Dealer says it's the inverter which has a nationwide backorder and no ETA.
View 9 RepliesI got home from work today and pressed the power button to shut the car off and the car completely died (door locks and open door dinger worked) and would not restart after multiple attempts. The dash was completely dead. I waited a couple minutes and it started just fine like normal. I went straight to the dealership that does the maintenance to have them look at it and the service manager pretty much told me that they couldn't find anything wrong with it. I have since started, driven and turned it off a few times since without any problem, differences from normal, or warning lights. This is the first time anything has ever acted up after 98500 miles.
View 2 RepliesI am having with my 2000 Accent GL. It keeps dying while I'm driving it then will not restart. After sitting for awhile it will start but then after a short time dies again. The first thing I did was replace the fuel filter but that did not work. Did a diagnostic scan and it threw a code for the CPS sensor. Replaced THAT and it STILL did not fix it. I reset the computer but it didn't work. The scanner didn't pick up any other codes. Next I checked the relays and they all seem to be fine. Finally, I replaced the fuel filter but the problem did not go away.
View 3 RepliesMy 2010 Elantra stalls while driving, even on the highway, and then won't restart right away. It has been at the dealer for a week now, and they have determined that the ECU is the problem.
View 5 RepliesI bought a used 2007 Santa Fe limited 3.3 last year. I'm currently at 98k miles. I replaced fuel Spenser's, added remote start and a curt hitch, did the head gasket service, did a maintenance to replace spark plugs and coolant.
Everything was ok ( although noticed with our single digit temps the engine was slow to start) then yesterday happened. Starting car in driveway and I got a check engine light. Tried restarting car and it stayed on. No problems. Drove about 15 miles and parked car. It sat for for three hours and then used it to go a few miles up the road ( engine light came on). No problems.
Had lunch, restarted car, light on, and Then oil can red light came on. Drove about 5 miles and while slowing down for a light I felt the power steering go, car stalled, and I couldn't restart. Never heard any whines or shrieks. Pushed car into a gas station and tow truck came. He tried to jump it ( it clicks when I tried to start it but it never turned over) and if his power supply was on and I tried to crank engine it made no sounds. Towed to a shop where mechanic tried same thing. Same result. They put car on rack and tried to manually crank engine. Couldn't budge it and told me engine seized. 4500 estimate to replace engine.
Took my own mechanic out to car ( night and freezing) and he did a few other checks and agreed that engine seized but thought it was weird I didn't hear the whine of the ball bearing getting shredded. Thinks a sensor blew, causing oil pump to fail, causing engine seize.
I'm now reading about multiple issues with crank shaft sensors and pulley separation and it seems like that is a possibility however I can't get my car to turn over at all. Granted it is freezing out here.
I was driving my 2002 Ford Focus, when the engine cut out & would not restart.The starter cranked the engine over, I had plenty of gas,and the battery is almost new.After getting the car towed home, I hooked up an OBD II Autoscanner.The scanner showed no codes, and said the car passed the scan test.
I was expecting a sensor code, a fuel pressure code or an ignition coil code. The car had done this once before - but the code reader had correctly shown a faulty crank sensor.
I don't see any loose wires or anything obvious that popped off while driving.BTW, it was a smooth road & I was only doing about 50 mph. Where should I start troubleshooting?What would cause the engine to stop but not show a code?
Recently when I drive for a while in traffic (stop and go) and then park my car for a quick errand and try to restart it won't start. This has only happened on extremely hot days ( over 90 degrees). I replaced the battery after the first time which was in April. It is now June and its happened 2 times in 2 weeks again. I have been able to start it after letting it sit for over an hour or with a jump. I'm getting nervous to run errands and the weather isn't getting any cooler.
View 7 RepliesMy 2000 Toyota Camry V6 died while driving the other day. At the shop they were able to start it but said it was misfiring but it didn't cut off when they were driving it. They recommended a tune-up to replace spark plugs and "wires" but admitted they weren't sure what the problem was. I haven't had a tune-up in awhile, actually not sure when the last time I had one was (if ever!). Would this cause it to die while driving?
Should I invest in a tune-up even if it doesn't fix the problem?The battery is about 3 months old. The master and slave cylinder were recently replaced (about 6 months ago), timing belt and water pump and hoses were replaced a couple of years ago.I have high miles, about 260,000 and love this car and have needed very little work and has been a very reliable car. Would love to continue driving it!!
I recently bought a 1998 F150 with 4.6 . I've been having problems starting it after I drive it awhile... When I try to restart it, it just clicks out on the firewall... The difference in what I've read about this problem and mine is that after 30 or 40 minutes mine starts right up , so far . I know the battery is good and I put a new solenoid , battery cable ends and a neutral safety switch . I just can't pinpoint the problem...
View 14 RepliesThis just started. Twice so far. The dashboard brake light, ABS light and the Traction control light pop on while driving. Pull over, shut the engine off, restart and everything is OK again.
View 3 RepliesMy 1995 TS with 3.8 just quit driving down the road, would not restart. had to be towed home.
Fuel pressure just meets specs at 41 PSI engine off ( Gm says 41 to 47), but has been that way for some time. Put Actron scan tool on, got a code 361, EST not toggling. GM has no code 361, but based on past experience, this has usually pointed to a defective ignition module, and I thought that was that. While testing, scan tool kept losing communications and having to be reset.
Finally I unplugged power source of tool, and engine immediately quit and would not restart. Resetting scan tool would allow engine to restart, albeit very rough. Doing a wiggle test of engine wiring harness makes no change.
Crank sensor was replaced, about 12 years ago, so it not the trouble prone OEM; cam sensor about 10 years ago by a garage who was unsuccessful in solving a driveability issue.
Issue here is why would scan tool affect engine operation?
As of yesterday evening my 2002 Chevrolet Suburban 1500, shuts off while im driving. Takes about two to five minutes to get it going again (has shut off a couple times) Starts up fine idles great, problems start about a mile or two of being driven.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 Sonata 3.3, 80,000 miles. After getting fuel I stopped about 2-3 miles away, when driving after a restart threw a CEL. Went to autozone and they gave these codes (P2189 and P0153) and were telling me possibly O2 sensor or Vacuum leak. Engine seems to run fine. Not sure if related but while fueling, gas pump was sputtering and I thought oh no. Wonder if I got bad gas and if it could throw these codes? I have since threw a bottle of Techron in and drove about 5-7 miles. I have had major work done with Timing covers twice. So it is possible a line may have came off but that was a few thousand miles ago. I pulled the cover and looked for any visible hoses off, did not see any. Don't want to spray with carb cleaner since it is dark out. I am still under the 100,000 warranty, so not sure if this would even be covered or not or whether I am doing irreparable damage. I saw other posts mentioning PVC issues?
View 6 Replieswhen car dies driving or idle- will not start for appx 30min after- cranks over immediately like it wants to, but will not actually start for about 30minutes... is this a sensor?
View 5 RepliesJust replaced the starter and battery on my old but loved 4Runner. I drove it for an hour and a half last week and couldn't restart it. Just nothing - one click I think. A friend tapped on the starter and it started...but I'm not sure whether the car just cooled down at that point. Took it to the garage and they said they couldn't find anything wrong (no surprise, right?) Now I'm afraid to take longer trips.
View 2 RepliesMy sons car is a 96 accord. For some reason, it's developed a new problem. After 15 minutes of driving it will stall, and it will not restart. It seems to be if it's left to sit long enough, it will restart(it does crank, just not turnover). That period of time it needs to sit seems more then 10-15 minutes, but we are not exactly certain. After several hours, it seems to start and run fine. We had it towed to the mechanic, they where not able to reproduce it. It's not overheating, the temp gauge stays below half. No check engine light is on.
View 13 RepliesI have a 1991 Nissan Sentra with 151,427 miles. The past several months I will be driving along and suddenly the car will stop working and it won't restart right away. The following parts have been replaced within the past 2 years: 2nd transmission, new starter, new alternator, new fuel pump, new battery, rack & pinion steering, and a complete tune-up just last fall (2012). What would cause my car to suddenly lose power when I'm driving? I want my Nissan to come back to life!
View 5 RepliesMy wife has an '03 Ford Expedition with 110k miles on it. It began dying while driving. Sometimes while moving. Other times when stopping or idling. She would describe that sometimes when it began acting like it was going to die she could "give it gas" and it would revive, other times that wouldn't work. It would usually restart after one or two tries. Our local mechanic did a tune up and replaced a coil. During the trip she began hearing a sound of "metal shredding" and the car died and wouldn't restart. She had it towed to a ford dealer. They replaced the IAC valve.
After that the dying would continue but instead of dying right away it would "lose acceleration, and eventually die within a few seconds" Took it to another ford dealership and they replaced the fuel pump and relay. It would work fine for a few weeks and then start dying again. Another local mechanic noted the error code P0231 "Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low" He kept it for a few weeks and was able to get it to die for him once but not again. The dying continued. Sometimes it would work great for weeks, other times it would die continually on the same trip. Took it to a 3rd dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong.It dies in the cold and in the heat. Usually after driving at least 20 minutes into a trip. Once it dies once it will typically continue to do so until resting for a day or so. Sometimes with a full tank of gas, sometimes with a low tank.
I have a 2004 Oldsmobile Alero 4 cylinder with 127K miles. After driving for a period of 30 to 45 minutes, it will cut off and it takes 30 minutes to an hour before it will restart. I have had the fuel pump, crankshaft position sensor, ignition control module, coil pack and computer replaced and I am still having the same problem. What might be causing this?
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