Prius (2010-12) :: How Does Jump Start Works On Hybrid Engine
Apr 2, 2013
I am wondering how does the jump start works on the Prius since it uses a electric motor to start the engine but not a conventional starter.I recently drained the 12V battery (left the interior lights on for two days) and had to take the battery out from the trunk to recharge it. Initially, I tried to jump start it at the specific jump port at the front of the car but it didn't have any effect at all. By that, I mean as if there was no external power source given to the Prius - i.e., no lights came on and no response when pressing the Start button.
I mean zero electric current at the Prius. Is the electronic starter motor power driven by the hybrid battery? If that is the case, it may explain why jump start didn't work in my case because it only passes the power to the 12V battery which doesn't drive the electric starter motor. So what good is the jump start for if it doesn't work like a conventional car? How this process works on Prius?
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Check hybrid system light came on and the whole dash lit up like a christmas tree. After i jumpstarted the 12v battery when it died. It was driving fine for about half an hour and all of a sudden the lights came on during acceleration from a stop light.
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I haven't been able to successfully jump my 2010 Prius. It sat for about a month and the 12v battery is dead. I've connected everything up as described in the manual. I've kept the second car at about 2K RPM for about 5 minutes to charge the Prius. I am able to get the Prius to start up just fine, but as soon as I disconnect the jumper cables, it dies right away. I've tried getting the Prius engine to come on for several minutes, but as i understand it, there's no alternator, so that's probably not charge the 12V battery.
I've gone through this cycle about three times now with the same results. Every posting I've seen doesn't indicate anything special needed after you disconnect the cables. Is there something I'm missing?
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With A DeWalt 12V Battery....
I left the hatch up for a few days because I didn't drive it due to hot weather. The battery died on me of course. The dead battery measured 6.59v No amount of "battery recovery" time is going to recover it to start up the Prius. I charged up an old DeWalt 12V NiCad battery. I jump started the Prius with it. When I power down the Prius, the interior lights went back to really dim.
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The 12V battery must have been drained completely over the weekend. None of the lights (interior and exterior) are working. The car won't start even using jumper cable. I guess the 12v battery must have some juice remaining to power up the computer in order to jump start the engine. Am I correct in this assumption?
My Prius is only a little over three years. What is the warranty on the 12v battery? I read that the OE battery is not the best. How long would I expect the OE 12v battery to last?
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THE PROBLEM: Our Prius 12V aux battery died after my wife left the light on inside the car and instead of buying a new battery, we decided to try jump starting it. My wife tried jump starting our Prius with the neighbors pickup truck and even though I wasn't physically there to witness it, I'm pretty sure that the polarity got swapped during the process. It wouldn't start afterwards, so we went out and bought a brand new 12V aux battery. The prius still will not start. No electric components seem to work (door locks, back brake lights, windows, radio don't work). The dash only shows the orange exclamation mark and the check engine light, nothing else. The power button blinks orange, never goes green.
TROUBLESHOOTING that I've tried:
1. Checked the big 120A fuse right on the positive + terminal. Visibly looked good.
2. Checked all the fuses by the drivers left knee. All tested good with resistance + visible checks.
3. Checked all the fuses in the fusebox under the hood. All tested good EXCEPT the big relay integration fuse under the white plastic cover. It was definitely blown.
4. Replaced the relay integration, still no luck, same exact symptoms.
5. Tried force starting the car in emergency mode by holding the brake and power button down for 15+ secs. The engine starts, but the dash is still dead showing just the check engine light and orange exclamation mark. Can not shift gears or drive.
6. Tried slow charging the NEW battery to get the voltage higher, still no luck. It's testing about 13V with everything off.
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If my traction battery has plenty of 'juice' in it, and my 12v battery is dead....is there any way to 'jump' the 12 volt battery with the traction battery to get the car started?
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my 2010 Prius III was working fine yesterday, but today when I try to start it it did not start. no green or abmer light on the push-start button. I tried few times, but no luck. I got the key from my pocket and got it closer to the push start button and I start hear the normal noise that happen when I opn the door, but the noise was very low and the internal light was very dimmed as if the battery dying. after few attempt to start, the car start at last, but the hubird screen where show the system on the dashboard was off. I try to change the display of the hybrid system but nothing start. the GPS screen display "no DVD MAP inserted" and seem frozen and not allow me to turn off the screen or press any other button.
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We bought a used Toyota Prius 2012 with about 35,000 km in early August 2015. We shipped it overseas. It gives the "Check Hybrid System" error when we try to start it. All the lights and instruments work o.k.
I've read this car be a problem if the car is parked a long time, which it was as it was mostly in a shipping container.
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My 2010 Prius died while driving... i had to pull over, now won't start. Says check hybrid system. What the heck should I do.
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I have a 2010 Hyundai Sonata with about 100,000 miles. Recently, it started doing funny things when I tried to start it. It would take a few tries, sometimes, or it might start immediately- very unpredictable. Someone suggested I try starting it in neutral, so I did that. It seemed to work for awhile, so the idea was maybe it was a switch in the car that can go funny and make it so the car won't start in park. Switch replaced, so everything's fine, right? No, still not starting on the first try. I took it to a car parts store to get the battery tested. The guy said, the battery is shot and is definitely the problem (he also said the starter was okay and he thinks alternator is also okay).
So I bought a brand new battery and had it put in... STILL NOT STARTING! Sometimes it will start in neutral, sometimes in park. It does not seem dependent on the temperature, the amount of time it's been since it was last started, or anything else that I can figure. However, if it is hooked up to a jump start, it will start immediately with no problem, in park. New switch, new battery. Is it likely the alternator? I'm trying to figure out how big of a hit this might be to my checking account. Other than this problem, the car runs perfectly. I'm confused that people keep diagnosing a problem and it still doesn't work. And that I might have replaced parts that weren't broken to begin with.
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So this has happened to me a few times now in the cold temps. For my job I'm left to sit and idle every now and then after over an hour of driving.
I'll park my car, ICE will turn off, ICE temp at 195. Sit with heat on at 65 degrees. After about 10 minutes the engine temp will drop to about 110, which the ICE will start and warm up to about 135 and turn off. Hybrid battery stays above 55% and normally hits about 65% on every ICE start. (I have extra instrumentation installed to monitor)
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Gen3 Prius. Once it turned 100k miles I took it in for an inverter coolant change per the maintenance schedule. The dealer charged $109 for this and the car had absolutely no issues prior. Got the coolant changed on 7/23 and then drove it short distances in town for two weeks with no issues. Once I drove it on weekend longer road trip got a check engine light P0A93 "inverter A cooling system performance". Shortly there after started getting hybrid overheat alerts and pulled over to let it cool.
I checked the inverter coolant reservoir and it was still above full. After letting things cool, I turned it back on and listened to the water pump. Seemed to be running fine, heard it clearly with my ear up to a long screw driver, touching the pump. Noticed that the hose leading to the pump was vibrating but the return hose out of the inverted was not. Also no turbulence in the reservoir. My guess is that they didn't bleed air out of the system.
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I have a RX350 2012 model. Recently, in last 3 weeks my battery has discharged 3-4 times, I had to call for a jump start.
I got my battery checked with my dealership and they say the reports from battery are excellent!
I am not sure why is it discharging? I just think there might be a sensor failure which is keeping something running in my car.
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I got a braking issue today and I'm not able to drive my car anymore. I have a 2010 Prius with a continuous beeping sound, ABS and warning lights ON. I can hear a small sound (pulsing, cranking, vibrating) in the engine compartment after the hybrid system is started. I guess this is the actuator.
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Recently I started to hear engine pinging/knocking-like noise when the hybrid battery level becomes low like two bars and the car starts a charge cycle. I also hear it occasionally when I accelerate on uphill. Is this normal or should I take it to a mechanic?
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After years of enjoying my Prius, driving it all around California and getting about 70k miles on it, it finally went haywire today when the car didn't start. Let me explain.
When I tried turning on the car, it didn't do anything and felt resistance from the brakes. I noticed that the interior lights were dimmer than usual, so I tried pressing the Power over and over again. Unfortunately, it didn't start.
Panicked, I frantically tried to get my manual out of my trunk, only to have the lights actually fully turn on. Puzzled, I turned on the car and, sure enough, it started. But I'm an idiot and turned it off and got stuck with the same problem again.
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Have great difficulty getting the car to jump start. Got it running briefly, clicked fob lock unlock system to break the anti theft interlock with doors left unlocked. Tried to put it in gear and it died. Cannot get it to jump start again. The hatch lock has no manual override to open it that I can find.
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I have a 2004 Ford F150 and the battery keeps dying. We do not use the truck a lot and it sometimes sits outside for 2-4 weeks without being used. If it sits that long, it might be completely dead, but starts up easily with a jump and then works fine for a while. The battery is a 650 amp Motocraft w prorated replacement from 37-100 mo. The local Ford dealer has checked it several times in the past 2 yr and said it is fine, and that if the truck sits for a couple of weeks the battery will die. Is that right? I am not a car moron, nor am I an expert, but I am concerned that they are missing a small draw somewhere in the system. Should I be concerned about a draw or is this just something that happens to batteries as they get older?
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What may have my son fried by reversing the polarity while jumping the battery in his 95 GMC pickup? The smaller wire coming off the + terminal was burned through,so I spliced that. The engine cranks but there is no spark.
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My 12V battery is dead- not sure what happened, I usually double press the lock button to turn the headlights off immediately. It seemed odd- the taillights were on, but not the headlights and all interior dome lights were on but dim. I certainly did not get the 'door open' warning beep when I left the car.
The car is completely dead - no power locks, interior lights etc. I tried to jump start it using the fuse box jumper plate, but was not successful. I have heavy duty jumper cables and it seemed like they only contacted the jump plate at one singular point, but that was the best I could do. It was touching, just only one point on the 'teeth' was physically on the front metal part. I waited a full 5 minutes with the donor car revving and tried to start it, but nothing at all. (And yes, I was + red to + red) I tried to adjust the cable on the plate a few times, but could not get any better of a grip. No dashboard light or anything ever came on- the car was just as dead.
What could the problem be? Should I try smaller cables for a better connection with the plate? How long should it generally take while revving the donor car? Or is this something more sinister?
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