I rotated my wheels after approx. 20,000 miles. I should have done it sooner. I noticed the tread pattern was considerable different when rotated. It has been about 6,000 miles since the rotation but I get high vibration noise when I'm around 30-40 mph is when it is most noticeable.
I'm assuming this is probably exacerbated even more due to the harder rubber tires for the Prius.
Last week , I changed the front wheels brake pads and had the mechanic rotating the wheels ( putting the front back and vise versa ). Ever since I had this oscillating noise and vibration when driving at 30-40 km/ hour (20-25 mph) when I speed up the noise change into a high roar without vibration . My prius is V gen 3 model 2010.
View 12 RepliesPurchased 2011 Prius 2 with 108500 miles on 4/29/2015. Didn't fully check all climate control settings and fan speeds. Two days later, car had vibration and rumbling sound which was increasingly severe on three highest climate control fan speeds in all modes (e.g. AC, heat, auto, manual, etc.). Sounded like a quiet lawnmower on highest fan speed. Was quiet on three lowest fan speeds. Glove box and passenger side dash vibrated in sync with noise.
Cabin air filter had been replaced by a large Toyota Dealer as part of pre-sale prep. I suspected filter was not installed properly. Removed glove box and filter, which had been properly installed. Vibration/noise were same when fan was operated without filter or glove box installed.
Felt around inside of fan housing. There was debris, including seven pieces of acorn shell (see image below). The concave sections of the shells were firmly wedged in the fins of the squirrel cage (no pun intended!) impeller. Cleaned out all nuts and debris, reassembled, fan operated quietly without vibration at all fan speeds.
The shells essentially unbalanced the impeller and induced vibration at high fan speeds, just like an unbalanced wheel would induce shimmy or vibration at freeway speeds. What is baffling is how the debris and acorn shells this large got past the filter. Filter fit on the right side is pretty good since a plastic flange goes between the pleats. The left side appears to have a looser fit with some gaps.
I bought a new 2013 Toyota Prius Three. It has 23K mile on it now. I have noticed a weird noise with vibration from engine when I start the car for the first time in the morning. The first 10 or 15 seconds after it is on, there is no problem as soon as the engine wants to turn on (engage) I hear the noise. There is no engine light or triangle alarm on. What is going on?
View 7 Replies16 K miles- the noise level when highway driving is beyond belief-- difficult to hear the radio and conversation is a strain. Tires are beginning to cup. Close a front door with a window open produces cheap noise, not a solid thump. Toyota agrees there is noise, but will do nothing about it. " that is the way they are".
View 2 RepliesAbout a month ago, I purchased my 2013 Prius Four. I've put on about 2,500 miles so far and recently started noticing when I start the car up, it is giving off a high pitched squeaking noise. This happens both when the car is using the electric battery and when I can feel the gas engine kick in. After about a minute or two, the noise goes away and doesn't come back.
View 5 RepliesI have had my certified 2010 Prius II, not two because it is a 2010 and 2010 used uppercase roman numerals for model designation, with 82000 miles about 3 months and sometimes when I apply the brakes I hear a high pitched whirring noise. I think the closest thing to compare it to would be a skill saw but not that loud.
View 2 RepliesMy Prius just reached 200000 km this week. I bought it at 180000 km 2 years ago, I don't drive it that much simply because I work from home.
Today, a sunny day, 0 degrees, the check engine just lit-up. I opened the hood and checked fluid levels, all OK. I started it and listened to the engine, running as usual. However, when the motor stopped (hybrid ON), I can hear a high frequency noise. I don't remember hearing this noise, but I don't think I ever opened the hood with the engine Off but powered On.
How can I get the check engine code ? I assume I need a connector, right ?
2010 RX 350 NAP ... Brand New and OEM where it would apply : Tires (Conti's LX20s)
Brakes / Rotors (had same shake before replacing and did not improve after replacement but maybe I am dealing with a bad caliper here)
Tie Rod Ends
Stab Links
Lower Control Arm Ball Joint
None of which have solved a vibration issue thus far. Strut feels solid and the corner push test had the car settle out in less than 2 bounces.
If car has sat a while the driver front (where the issue lies) feels like a imbalanced tire/bent rim (rotated the wheels just to be sure it didn't follow the wheel/tire) or like a broken belt. The tires are almost brand new and only put them on because I was trying to eliminate the point of issue.
When braking, a light touch to the brake pedal makes a almost light clank sound (like weight shift is causing the clank or perhaps a sign of a bad caliper (although pad wear looks even but didn't have rotors rechecked but even with brand new rotors it was there so I don't feel it's a warped rotor plus the vibration is there even when not applying the brakes.
There is only one control arm and the bushing didn't look cracked beyond the normal surface cracking I have seen on most rubber bushing. The upper support is from the strut so perhaps a bad strut or maybe strut support/cap/bearing?
At a total loss as the local garages cannot find anything wrong. My thought was a bad wheel bearing, although there is not any grinding sound that you typically hear when a hub is going bad.
Could also be the CV Joint but not sure how to tell if that really issue the issue unless I replace all the other parts first (hub, caliper, strut/support/bearing).
I have a 2015 RX350 with 25k. New tires, two road force balance by two different dealers and I'm still getting a high frequency vibration mostly in the seats above 60mph. Dealer cannot find any issues.
View 6 RepliesI purchased a set of new LTX MS2 tires back in October and a week ago a got a nail on the right front tire, specifically the side wall so they couldn't fix it so they replaced the tire with a new one. Now when I step on the brakes at 60 mph, the steering wheel vibrates. Can the new tire be causing that? I looked at the weights and one set of weights is taped kind of crooked, can the balancing cause it too?
View 14 RepliesI commute 180 miles a day, 6 days a week. I noticed metal on metal grinding noise(more noticeable) at high speed above 75mph especially on asphalt road. I'm sure noise is there at low speed but not enough to notice. My car has 50,000 miles. Tires? Electric motor?
View 7 RepliesMy Prius v has 1300 miles. I didn't notice at first but now I notice a constant high frequency vibration in the car, especially at highway speeds. Took car to a tire shop and had tires dynamically balanced, same problem. I think it must be the toyo low profile tires or its in the drive train and just inherent to the hybrid system. Seems to be the same whether in eco mode or ev. Vibration is the same on smooth or rough roads. Dealer service manager says he is not aware of any problems. Suggests bring car in for a test drive and compare with another new one.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2007 Sonata, 2.4L 4cyl. and it is making some weird noise as of late. I have done some research and from what I have read it seems like it may be a bad engine mount. One thing to note is that the noise really only happens when the car is cold and hasn't warmed up yet or on a cold day.
Basically the best description is that the noise is a high-pitched rattle/vibration noise. The noise seems to match the vibrations of the engine but doesn't seem to get more intense if I rev the engine. The noise does get quieter if I put it in neutral but it is still there. The noise also happens even if the car is parked and off, and I do something like shut the door or trunk. I haven't gotten a chance to get in there and look under the hood myself to try...
My 05 will pass the 230K mile mark sometime in the next week. I have been tolerating a high velocity (65+mph ) vibration [for about the past six months - maybe more] that I can feel through the steering wheel. When driving at 55 mph, there's no vibration whatsoever.
It could be that the Ecopia 422s that were installed two years ago are causing it or it could be a bad front wheel bearing. The Ecopias have 45k miles on them and realistically don't have much more life left in them (60K tread wear warranty). A couple of them are a little more than 1/32 from the wear bars.
To those who replaced their front wheel bearing(s). What were the symptoms up to the time of replacement? Was it something you could sense when driving or was it found during an inspection with the front end raised?
So I'm at my wits end trying to locate (and fix) a loud, high frequency rattle noise inside the engine compartment.
It can be heard when applying the gas pedal a certain amount. In other words, I can "find" the noise and maintain it at a certain rpm.
The noise is coming from the back of the engine near the firewall. It feels and sounds like it's coming from the throttle body plate and vibrating the gas pedal. I cleaned the plate and it isn't loose.
The issue doesn't seem to be affecting engine performance.
The sound is noticeable while driving (under load). When in park, I can find an rpm where the throttle body seems to take a heavy wave of vibration from the engine and hum (but not nearly as loud as while driving). Issue existed before I put on new motor mounts, and still persists after replacing all 4 (although the vibration and noise are reduced).
I have a 2010 Prius with 100,000 miles. It has a vibration that starts at about 70-75 mph and gets much worse at higher speeds. The tires appear good with no unusual wear.
View 8 Replies2010 Prius III. Purchased at 75,000 miles now at 135,000 miles.
At all different speeds I'm getting a vibration. It used to be much more slight. But in the the past few months it has gotten progressively worse. I have read many other threads about it happening at near idle speeds but haven't found any previous topics concerning my dilemma.
But it happens when I'm trying to accelerate. Not hard acceleration but rather moderate or less. If I take my foot off the accelerator and reapply it it stops. I don't know what to think considering how different the problem is compared to descriptions of the mr2 acting funny.
Another issue I have had for at least a year is when driving in rain for awhile, then gently come to stop, get a noise that shouldn't be there and whole car vibrates. Noticed about a year ago when driving on interstate, raining something terrible, been going several hours and stopped for gas. The whole car shook while slowing down.
Also made a terrible noise and no it was nothing to do with ABS, nothing was locking up and it was driving at 30 mph and stopping at a very slow pace. It was not the ABS noise. Actually didn't want to press brake pedal hard as vibration and noise got worse the more you pressed. I figured pads must be wet. Eventually it stops and all was fine, figured they dried. No I didn't go through any water puddles, just interstate driving in rain for long period of time. Pads are in good shape as far as ware goes.
I just forgot about it until it happen again the other day when hardly any rain and short drive in town. Question is, never had it on other cars/truck. My truck I can take through the low water bridge and don't experience any brake issues, don't take car through low water bridge.
I just purchased a Hyundai Elantra Limited edition car and I am hearing a noise while I am driving. I'll do my best to describe it but it is a difficult noise to decipher. I can hear the noise anytime I am driving but it is more difficult at lower speeds but the noise does increase at lower speeds when I am slowing down. But the noise persists whether or not I am pressing on the brakes so I don't think it is brake related. The noise only happens while the vehicle is in motion. It almost sound like the cross between a rubbing and grinding noise but it also has a internal encased sound. The sound is low pitched and the speed of the sound doesn't change with the speed of the vehicle. I first suspected the brakes because I heard a squealer going off. When I took it in for repair, one of the rear calipers was stuck and so I got both calipers replaced. They said the front brakes looked fine. After doing that repair, the squealer noise is obviously gone since the brakes were repaired but the other noise persists. I would suspect a wheel bearing if the owner hadn't told me it was just replaced. Plus I would have thought that the will bearing noise would change along with the speed of the car.
View 7 RepliesI had a new trailer hitch installed on my 2013 Hyundai Elantra Coupe last month...after a couple of days I noticed a vibration noise in the right rear...I took it in to the dealer, they said they hitch didn't fit right and the vibration was caused by the hitch...they recommended I take it back to the installer (e-trailer). So I took it back to e-trailer...they looked at it and said they work with the dealers to design the specs for the hitches and there shouldn't be an issue...so they say they found a piece of styrofoam that was loose in the fascia and that was causing the vibration...so tomorrow I'm going back to the dealer to have them see if they see the same problem...so far I'm getting the old 'it's not my problem'...I really don't care whose problem it is, I just want it fixed!
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