Prius (2010-12) :: Heater Blow The Constant Temperature Of Air
Oct 26, 2013
I have a 2013 Prius 4. I'm not sure if there is a problem or not but the heater just seems to blow the same temperature of air no matter how high I set the temperature. The air feels lukewarm. I was driving 60 miles yesterday with the temperature set at 76. I had on a long sleeve shirt and polar fleece jacket and it never got to where I was really warm. Outside temp was about 50.
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I took my 200000 mile Prius to a garage that is highly recommended and the mechanic stated that I need a new evaporator and expansion valve. He tested the car for a day. There was no time to do the fix so I arranged for a dealership that I trust to do the job. When they were ready to do the work, they detected no leak in the evaporator, but said that the compressor, expansion valve, and AC line needed replacement. (They showed me the leak in the compressor with special glasses.) After I called the first mechanic with the new info, he said that he could detect a leak nowhere, but, in the evaporator, and, at the expansion valve area. I am now stymied as to what I should do.
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My heater quit blowing hot or warm air all of the sudden. I took my mechanic and they said it showed no codes and were afraid to mess with it so I took it to a dealership. They worked on it most of a day. Said nothing showed a code as bad, they got into it and found the air going into the heater core was hot, but it was cool coming out. They spent some time flushing the coolant and said they found some sediment in the coolant fluid. They were hoping to flush out anything clogging the heater core.
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I purchased my Prius in CA in late 2008. As the CA temperature was not drastic, the heater temperature was never an issue. Two years ago I moved to CO. Today, for instance, short sleeved weather, but only 35 outside - the sun is out, it's a great day. Now for those that don't live in CO, this may seem cold.. but here's the issue, my heater goes from LOW to 65, 66, ... and up.. there are many times 65 is way to warm, and "LOW" (the outside temp) is too cold, so I toggle back and forth. Is there any way I can reduce the heat coming into the car, so when it's at 65 (reading) perhaps it's warming to 55.
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I have a 94 ford Taurus all of a sudden my ac doesn't blow cold and my heat doesn't blow hot. Also every now and again I hear a sound like an alarm clock coming from passenger side??
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Fuel mileage dropped from 52 to 40 on several hot days and I heard a constant loud hum. In the shop tomorrow.
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I have a 2002 Caviler. Somewhat recently the car has been not staying at a constant temperature. It will rise above the middle (where it would always just stay at until recently) a notch and then go down a notch below the middle. I have never replaced the thermostat and I have had it around 8 years and the car has around 60,000 miles. Did replacing the thermostat fix them?
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Today my a/c stopped working, it just blow normal temperature air not cooling, never had a bad experience with it before, I even use it not on the lowest set up, always on 19 Celsius. It was working fine when i arrived at work, 10 minutes later My boss told me to pick something up and when I turned the a/c on it Never worked.... Is this normal?
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When I drove my 2012 Prius 3 today, the fuel indicator was flashing as I had about 20 miles until empty. I was on my way to get gas when suddenly, the horn was honking as if the alarm was going off. Nothing I did seemed to stop the horn, even clicking the unlock button on the key fob. Intermittently, the horn would stop, then start up again in a stuttering fashion, only to be followed by the incessant honking I mentioned earlier. I have a video of this but it must be too large to upload.
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It's been quite a while since I was here - which shows that my Passat has been pretty reliable recently. But now I have a problem. WHen I was driving home about a week ago, I saw the temperature suddenly drop all the way to the stop. I put on the heater, and the air continued to come out at regular temperature, so the problem was in the reading/display. I have a Scangauge, which I connected, and it showed the correct temperature (around 190), confirming a problem with the display.
I contacted the dealer, who first insisted that it must be the thermostat (then why do I get a reading of 190 with the Scan Gauge and why is the heater still hot). When I disagreed, they said it must be the sensor. When I pointed out that the Scan Gauge correctly shows the rise in temperature for cold and then show the temperature maintained at between about 185 and 195) , then they said it must be the gauge, which requires a new instrument cluster.
I went to a another service place I've used (not a dealer) and they insist that it must be the sensor, based on past experience. For this to be true, the engine must have different temperature sensors for the instrument cluster display than it does for the computer.
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Picked up a 2001 Excursion a few weeks ago. Trying to sort out some of its issues. The rear HVAC seems to only blow one temperature... Luke warm. Front A/C and heat work fine. I checked the temp blend actuator and it seems to work fine. The rear expansion valve gets cold and there is condensation that drips from the rear. What else I can check?
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Two weeks ago we were driving across rolling hills in southern Ohio. I started to wonder, "What would be the perfect road for the Gen 3 Prius?" Is there a road shape that would allow the benefits of pulse and glide without the speeding up and slowing down?
Let's assume no net elevation change on an interstate highway and a driving speed of 60 or 65 mph. To stay in the most fuel efficient engine ranges for the ICE, we'd want down-hill stretches where the power demand shown on the hsi would be in the bottom 1/4 of the total Echo range, and up-hill stretches where we could stay in the top 1/4 of the hsi Echo range (just below Power).
Would the optimal ascent and descent angles be the same, or would the angle of decline be shallower that the assent angle? Would mileage (mpg) be better on this ideal up and down road than mileage on a flat road at constant speed?
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1991 Ranger STX, 4.0. Had a leak from the rubber seal on the thermostat. Changed the thermostat (stat 195) and seal. Now my temperature gauge is not showing a constant reading, goes to half way and when the thermo opens the gauge falls down to a quarter. The gauge is cycling this way every time the thermo opens.
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A few weeks ago, I bought a new condenser, compressor, evaporator, expansion valve, ac line for my 2010, 200000 mile Prius and had them installed by a dealership. They weren't too happy about my independent purchase of parts , but they did the job.. After a few days, there was no longer cold air. The dealership is 1000 miles from where I live. They are willing to start over again, for free, and see where the leak is but I can't travel to there for awhile, and, already the heat is oppressive in the middle of the day. I asked the local dealership if they would run a test of the system which will be a bit expensive, and they agreed. But, they cannot guarantee that the test will be conclusive. After almost 3000 dollars spent on this, I really do not know where to go from here.
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Got a 2002 Grand Voyager (as we name it in Europe), 3,3 AWD, with AC/Heating problems.
No matter the temperature setting, from 15C to 29, it will blow with same very hot air. AC working when setting the temp to LO.
Going from LO to 15 deg C, you'll hear a "clunk", as if a door closes, and the warm air will start to flow through the vents.
Tried all the calibration possibilities known to me (ON+Recirc), and it will end with no faults, but to no good effect on the problem.
What the "ON+AC" mode does? Been in that mode - but do not know what it does, or if I'm supposed to do anything.
I haven't got a clue, other than the "thump" I hear when, possibly, the blend door closes, might be a problem, since I would expect the blend to be more gradually invoked.
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My 2005 ranger will blow hot air with the cab temperature control is on cold or hot. The A/C works only when it is on Max AC. What the problem may be.
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I've only had the car about a month, and love everything about it. . . . but with the onset of cold mornings, I'm not very excited about the luke-warm air coming out of my heater.
It's reminding me of my old B5.5 Passat VR6 wagon and the annual heater-core flush that it required. Of course, the Passat was 13 years old and had 200k on it.
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How does the A/C still blow cold air with the engine not running?
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2000 f150 heater only got warm.
Flushed system, new thermostat, new coolant. Then NO warm air. A/C blows cold. Checked heater blend door and actuator both intact and working. Heater core not leaking, system holds pressure and doesn't leak.
Is there another automatic valve that could be shutting off flow to heater core?????
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I am working on a friends Neon and he been having an issue with constant overheating even through he has replaced the thermostat, the radiator, water pump and related hoses. However, he is missing the cap to the coolant tank and his heater core hoses are blocked, both incoming and outgoing. Could the blocked hoses be causes it to over heat?
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I just bought my 2010 Prius from a Toyota dealer a few weeks ago. It has 103,000 miles, so it's not under warranty.
I thought the a/c was a bit weak when I got the car, but I always drive it in Eco mode, so I thought that was the reason. It wasn't terrible, just wasn't "ice" cold. Well, today it has completely kicked the bucket. Nothing. A/C light comes on, fans blow hard, but no cold air.
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