Prius (2010-12) :: HSI Lag From Full Stop
Dec 29, 2015
Just purchased a 2010 prius III and had a question about the HSI bar. I didn't notice this at first, but when pressing the gas (from a complete stop) the HSI bar lags a second then turns on without a gradual increase. Is this normal? While the car is in motion the HSI bar is smooth and gradual, but starting from a stop it seems there is a lag before the bar "lights up" sometimes past the middle line. I press the gas gently but it doesn't ramp up gradually. Probably just my OCD kicking in.
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I just recently purchase my first 2012 Prius Three and so far it's been great on gas. However, today I had my wipers on full speed because of the rain here in Northern Cali and noticed that my car was swaying at the stop light. At first I thought it might be the wind but when I turn off the wipers the swaying went away. Turned them on full blast and the swaying came back. Is this normal?
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Just this past weekend my wife got her 2010 Golf Highline with the 6-speed tiptronic transmission. Just a quick question about the gas pedal. when it is on "D" it really feels heavy and sluggish when going from full stop to acceleration. the pedal feels so hard and when you step on it feels like its not going at all. but as soon as it goes on 3rd everything seems ok. and then we tried putting it into "S" (sports) mode and everything was really good and quick. but when on this mode you need to be really hard on the gas pedal for it to run smooth. so i guess my question is...is it really like that when driving in the "D" mode??
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I am hearing a clicking sound when shifting and perhaps an unrelated but similar click when I am pressing the gas peddle from a stop. Perhaps a CV joint? I'm taking the car in to the dealer (approximately 79,000 km or 48,000 miles) on the 20th to give the car a once over.
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I had less than half a tank and went to fill up before a long drive. At the gas station, the pump wouldn't let me put any gas in the tank , it kept clicking stop. I gave up and was going to try again later, however when I turned my car back on, it said I had a full tank all of a sudden.
The gauge on my dashboard isn't going down at the right speed either.
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My 2010 70,000km car has this problem since yesterday. That was after leaving it at car wash, they call to tell me it's not starting. Display message said to press brakes while starting, which I did, yeah I pressed it very hard.
After online look up and phone call with Toyota Lanka, I myself checked brake light switch in pedal, since brake lights were not turning on but switch was fine.
Then Toyota Lanka engineer came to location and started by long pressing start. Replaced brake light fuse, which was burned.
But still this light is on. I think it could be due to hard pressing of brake. But now car works fine apart from the brake hold function. Will display reset work, then how to do that
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In my 2015 T Spirit I use the Auto headlight feature but can't get my head around the customisable light sensitivity.
Headlights often stay on when it's full daylight but do I lower or raise the sensitivity to get them to go off earlier.
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I been having this issue when I drive to 0 miles left on gauge, then fill it at gas station and it clicks like its full, but shows only 8.5-9 gallons? And fuel gauge shows 1 bar missing from full.
2011 66k miles
Took to dealer and they replaced gauge module and was ok for 2 fill ups but now its doing it again.
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I got prius i-tech Australia (should be IV or V in US). I just noticed this morning that my fuel economy is better when I got 6-7 bars on battery level, and worsen if i only got 2-4 bars. Is it just my imagination or any explanation for it?
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I just got my dream car, love it, but have two questions:
1. My battery icon is never totally full. Does that last bar ever show up? I doubt it's an issue, but figure if the charge is low now....
2. I've filled four times, and each time the computer shows mileage about 5% better than the actual purchase of gas calculates out. So I'm wondering if the calculation is a little high, of if my gas station is "a little off." I plan to use a few gas stations and compare the results.
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We use the EV mode when going home for last quarter mile because its mostly downhill so for fun have the electric motor tow us home. What is "quirky" about this mode is sometimes EV won't engage even if big battery is full, gas engine is warmed up.
We know that going faster than 25mph cancels the EV and that short trips prevent EV from engaging. Other times EV just cancel citing excessive speed when we are going 10-15mph. So this is no problem but wondered what the parameters are for EV engaging and dis-engaging.
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Been having a problem starting the car (2010 T Spirit - 25k mileage RSH) in the mornings for about 3 weeks. When you power on, the dashboard lights up most options and the power light goes amber with no engine start.
This can take 5 or 6 attempts before getting the engine to start and then half the dashboard like the clock etc will not light up for that journey. Subsequent journeys that day are ok but the issue returns for the first start every day.
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Sometimes when i reverse and come to a full stop i sometimes hear a loud thunk..coming somewhere close to the right rear hard to tell since I am in the car when it happens, I'm due for my 10k soon..
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My 2011 Lincoln MKT hesitates after a full stop...randomly. After I apply the gas she will hesitate, as if she can't find the right gear, RPM's go out of sight then there's a sudden and hard jerk and away we go! The weather is not a factor...happens anytime anywhere. The cruise control will shut off randomly as well. At times the warning buzzer and light flash on the windscreen that we are about to crash...and there are no vehicles in the way.
It has been to the dealership 4 times in the past 3 months for this and they can't find anything wrong... (Ford does not have a bulletin on this problem either. We've had the car since Feb. 2011 - it has 20,000 miles on it now. Regular maintenance is done as scheduled.)
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Car is an automatic 1.8T and has a rough idle when the car is in DRIVE and I am in a full stop. Car also idles rough when in park. Not sure if it is an idle valve stabilizer, or a coilpack? Car does drive well once in motion and does not feel like it lacks power.
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When I accelerate from full stop with 3/4 throttle when car gets to 60-70 mph it stops accelerating for 1 or 2 sec, there is is also a little jerk. After that it continues to accelerate normally. The problem is not present if for instance we drive 30 mph and then use 3/4 or full throttle. I talked to dealer and they said there might be a little jerk but nothing more, and it might be solved by software update. In my opinion its definitely not a slightly jerk, car completely stops to accelerate for a moment. Car has about 45 k miles so its almost like new.
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i want to upgrade my wife's Tiguan. She's complained that it feels sluggish especially when starting from a full stop. A bit of a delay when she steps on the gas. Just wanted to get people's thoughts on going stage 1 vs right to stage 2. And if stage 2 do you reccommend anything more than just the diownpipe and the tune?
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I've had a 2007 Honda Fit with around $130K for a year. Car performs ok but a recent problem started that I'm not sure about.
When accelerating after a full stop, sometimes it makes a sound like tires squealing and sometimes a thump. I notice it happens when I accelerate normally; if I do it gently it doesn't (but since I'm a former native New Yorker, "gentle" is not in my vocabulary). The squealing is not coming from my tires but from my engine. The thump happens only occasionally. And none of it happens when I'm driving; only when I start after a full stop.
Otherwise, acceleration and braking is no problem whatsoever. It may or may not be relevant, but this problem started only after I got the car professionally washed.
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Within the past 2 weeks I've been noticing that when I shift hard into 2nd and 3rd, I manage to grind the gears slightly. At first I thought that maybe I wasn't engaging the clutch fully but after enduring rush hour traffic in the hilly streets of SF yesterday, I noticed that I could replicate the grinding at a full stop with the clutch fully engaged which makes me think that maybe my clutch is going bad.
I'm a bit unsure since the car still pulls up the hills like a champ (maybe it could be pulling harder?) and need to point out tell tale signs to look for when your clutch is starting to fail and requires replacement.
If my problem is not due to clutch, what could it be? If it is, any good place in bay area to take the R? I plan to replace with stock set up.
Currently I have stock clutch w/ +73k miles. I did have an episode where a car transporter managed to make thick grey smoke pour from my clutch due to ineptitude so clutch failure would not surprise me.
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I've read about transmission shift problems between certain gears with these cars but don't know if my symptom applies. 2004, AWD with 35k miles, however mostly short stop and go driving.
When applying the brakes to come to a complete stop, there's kind of a abrupt downshift that I can even feel in the brake pedal. The car even has a last second little shake and a bit of a clunk..
Difficult to describe, so here's a short YouTube video as well. (you may have to turn up the vol to hear it)
Definitely not the transmission. Pulling the ABS/VSC/TC fuse , the car brakes normally. Skid control affects turning in curves and TC affects acceleration. So, it's ABS related..
Lexus 2004 RX330 transmission downshift when stopping - YouTube .....
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I had to really hard brake today over a very very short distance...the tires locked and the car slid for about 5 feet. Car is 2000 corolla, 4-spd auto.
As soon as I came to a full stop, I notice the engine was still "spinning" like it was in second gear...because the RPM was around 1000rpm (idle is 650). As soon as I started moving, there was a slight clunk noise (sounded like it came from CV half axle/transmission).
Although rare, This also happened a couple of times before when hard braking. It downshifts to 2.. idles around 1000rpm for a couple of seconds... and then there is a "slight" clunk noise.
Other than this, the transmission/engine has been very smooth and the car has no problems.
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