Prius (2010-12) :: Got Codes POA1A And POA94 After Getting Into Surge?
Nov 13, 2014
As I was entering my driveway the other night, as soon as the RF tire went from the road surface to the dirt of my driveway, the car surged a little, then the dash lit up with the yellow triangle, traction control, check engine and "check hybrid system". From there the car went into safe mode, and max was about 12 MPH. I have limped it around some, the ICE will not start, and I tried resetting the ECU's by disconnecting the battery with no luck. I downloaded the codes I have listed above. My car is a 2010 III with 93K miles on it. What should I expect here? Inverter? Is it covered by warranty?
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I have a Gen III Prius 2010 with about 50k on it. I've noticed over the past month that when the ICE shuts down at a stoplight, the car will surge forward a bit. If my foot isn't on the brake really hard, it will translate to the car actually moving forward until the ICE is totally off. If my foot is on the brake hard, you can feel it push against the brakes, and then the car settles back in place. It doesn't happen every time, so it still takes me by surprise.
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I've had my 2010 Prius II for less than a month and am not particularly happy with it. I've experienced a slight surge forward when braking on uneven pavement at low speeds at least 4-5 times in 900 miles. This isn't something I can duplicate on demand. When I took it in to the dealer after the first time and asked if the ABS fix had been made to it, they told me my car wasn't part of the "campaign" (aka recall) because it was manufactured in March and the ABS problem had been solved by then. However, it sounds exactly like the problem people were discussing in Jan/Feb.
Once when I put it in reverse in a parking lot it lurched backward (my foot was on the brake) suddenly -- not far, but it was an alarming sensation. It also has a high pitched, barely audible whine when moving (can't hear it if I put on the radio). The mechanic said that was the normal sound of the battery, but I don't remember it from other cars I test drove. Is it normal?
I'm keeping an eye on the dome lights every time I park because I found them on one night (they'd probably never shut off after I parked the car during daylight hours) -- it could have been that the light was switched to "on" rather than "door," but now I'm paranoid and constantly check to make sure they're off when they're supposed to be, for fear of wearing down that little 12 v battery. Not fun.
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Does the car store a code if the airbag lights comes on and then goes off the next time i start it up.
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I leave my car for 2 weeks without driving, and when I start the power, I have check engine light on and I drive to the dealer right away. Mechanic performs diagnostic test for engine misfire no engine miss found. The error code is P0302/P3191. The mechanic told me that I always run the car in very low on fuel, and it causes the 2nd cylinder misfile or not running when the fuel is very low. They suggest me always pump the gas when the fuel indicator has 2 bars left.
My question is that: How come the car cannot run in low fuel, low fuel doesn't mean no fuel, and it can damage the engine/cylinder?
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This is the third time this has happend in a week I used my torque app but it says no fault codes but the warning lights are clearly lit and wont turn off unless I shut down the car. Its a 2012 with 8,000 mile?
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Bought a used Prius 2010 last december, Now the hybrid system is shut down and the assumption is that the hybrid battery is the culprit. No codes has been read out of the system but the car has passed 330 000 km so I guess that's very plausible. Have found a used battery from a 2009 prius who the local Toyota service facility says is compatible.
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Just bought this car, while driving for the first time, engine light came on, Mileage is 160,000 Km. Scanned the car with tech stream and found these codes.
P2196
B1206
B2321
B2313
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Experiencing a low speed transmission surge or hesitation when applying first applying the gas at parking lot speeds.? I especially notice it when traveling downhill or a slight decline. The motor revs as if in neutral then the transmission catches on. I mentioned it to the dealer at the 1000 mile check up and they said they could not find anything wrong. I'm getting ready to take it in for the 5000 mile service.
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I don't know if this is related, but my car has not shifted as well as it did before I gave it my oil change. The car only has 3K miles, new Hyundai oil filter, and Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w-20.
It's not a major dip in performance, but enough for me to know its different. One example is when I come to a stop, the car seems to surge forward a little bit. Another is that is shifts hard from time to time when I give it gas.
Going uphill, it just doesn't have the power like it did. Also, it feels that it's not in the right gear..like 5th or 6th gear. It's hard to describe the symptoms. The weird part is that the MPG is the higher than normal.
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I am new to the Prius and have noticed that when cruising the car seams to surge or pulse while driving. Is this normal?
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Is there a correlation between a Prius sitting in the hot sun and the computer malfunctioning? When I came out from a movie yesterday, the temps read 106 degrees outside the car. The emergency brake light was on, though the brake was off. I pumped the brake on/off a couple of times, but the light stayed on. As I pulled out, the brake seemed to engage, then disengage causing the engine to stutter and surge. The service tech today tells me the computer is not communicating and at 50,000 miles. Is it worth the money to get the new computer? Will the car be safe afterwards?
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We bought the 2010 RX350 a couple of weeks ago and have gotten these codes twice.. I have a good scanner and know what the codes say about Cat's bank 1 and 2 operating below threshold. I know some of you are going to say replace the cat's, others are going to say replace the sensors and neither should be the problem... If it were a cat or sensor, then they would not come in at the identical same time... It has to be something common such as a throttle body, charcoal canister, or another item upstream of the cat's... Not the gas cap either...Maybe a vacuum hose..
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I have a 2010 model Hyundai Accent showing error codes P0301, P0302. It has a 1.6L engine. I know little about cars, what is going on and how to fix it.
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2010 F-150 XLT super-crew 2WD.
While driving into work today the CEL came on today. The truck has just over 62k on it. When I got home I checked and there 3 codes P0150, P0050, and another P0150. They read P1050, O2 Circuit (bank 2, Sensor 1), and P0050, HO2s Heater Control Circuit (Bank 2, Sensor 1).
I cleared the codes, if they come back I'll give Ford a call I hear that emission stuff is usually covered for 8/80 is that right? What could have caused these codes? Bad O2 sensor? I haven't had a chance to crawl under and take a look. Is bank 2 on the drivers or passenger side?
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My wife suddenly had error messages today, Check AWD System, check engine, traction. Carista reports P0138 O2 sensor high circuit voltage bank 1 sensor 2and also C1241 ABS low battery positive voltage. I get the O2 sensor or wires could be bad, but the C1241 could be expensive ECU. Think both could happen at same time or just a thrown code? Reset turned warnings off but Carista reports permanent for P0138.
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I have a 2010 GX460 with about 81000 miles on it. I recently got the above codes and after researching it I decided to take apart the air injection valves, and also the motor to see what was going on.
Luckily these parts are very easy to access on our cars. Take the engine cover and front plastic cover off. The two valve are on either side of the cylinder head, and the pump will be on the left hand side, front of the engine bay.
I ordered two new valves, and ended up just cleaning out my pump.
Here are the Part Numbers:
VALVE ASSEMBLY, AIR SWITCHING
2570138100
VALVE ASSEMBLY, AIR SWITCHING
2570238050
This is exactly what happened: [URL] ....
Here is what both of my valves looked like:
Here is what the air pump looked like:
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I have a 2010 Toyota RAV4. In February 2014 at 34,600 miles when the car was 46 months old I had the EVAP (charcoal) canister and filter replaced for $1,300. Error codes were P043, P0401 and P0402. Recently I had the following check engine error codes appear (P043E & F, P2401, P2402 & P2419) and was told by my mechanic that the car basically had the same problem. I am now at about 50,000 miles. I don't believe this type of problem is very common; also I think that the EVAP should continue functioning for a lot longer than ~4 years and now ~1.5 years. How likely is it that I got a "bad" original EVAP charcoal canister & filter and then the replacement was also "bad"? Might there be something else that is defective that is causing the EVAP canister to go bad? I don't generally top off the gas tank when filling up.
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Used a 2010 or newer SD axle for there Coil conversion ? I did and am having abs issues. It's to cold to spend a lot of time outside figuring it out . I have these codes c1155, c1230,c1233,c1234. The right front sensor is brand new and the speedo works fine. Are the hubs maybe not compatible? Sensors plugged right in.
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I have a 2011 Elantra that I purchased brand new. Has over 60,000 miles on it. Had a check engine light come about year or so ago which was fixed with a software update at the dealer.
Check engine light is back on now. Steady light; it's not blinking. Brought it to my mechanic. Ran diagnostic and said the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced. P codes were P2096 and P2196. He ordered the sensor from the dealership and installed it. Reset my cars computer. I drove the car 26 miles and the engine light came on again.
Here are my questions:
1. Wouldn't my mechanic's diagnostic equipment tell him what the problem or all the problems were? Why would it tell him the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced when there seems to be another problem causing the engine light to come on?
2. Would the dealership have more insight into a check engine light system problem than a mechanic shop may have?
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I have a 2012 V with the HDD Navigation.
In Boston (and I presume in other large cities) there are roads that have the same house number across various zip codes. So, for example, 235 Washington Street can be found in 3 distinct zip codes in the same city (Boston). I would like to be able to put in the zip code for the address I want to go to. Right now it gives me my the completely useless latitude and longitude coordinates (with great precision, I might add!). My authorized Toyota dealer could not figure out how to change it to show the zip code associated with the address I just entered.
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