Prius (2010-12) Fuel :: MPG Decreases From 52 To 43 After Installed Fog Lights?
Oct 26, 2010
I have my Prius II 2010 with 3700 miles. The avg MPG was around 52-54. After I installed the fog light, (I installed it myself), the MPG dropped to 42-44. I drive the same way as I drove before. I don't think the fog light would take 10 MPG in order to be turned on. What is going on?
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Just got the local shop to install fog light and they look awesome...
I was wondering if there's an easy way to aim/level them without taking button bumper cover off? Only one needs to be adjusted the passenger side is slightly brighter and aimed higher than driver side when you view them from a distance.
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I replaced all the interior halogen lights, parking lights and license plate lights with cool white LEDs. They look good and all was fine until the last step while installing the license plate lights. I plugged one side then turn the light switch on to verify the polarity to see if bulb would come on which it did. Same process for the second license plate light but this time around after turning on the light switch to see if it was plugged in right, I noticed the brake lights didn't come on. So I flipped the switch around a few times and nothing. Now the DRLs do not come on either as well as the parking lights. The only lights that work now are the head lights and interior lights. What happened how do I fix???
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i just got my edelbrock performer rpm intake and my holley 4 barrel installed but it won't run...the only way i can get it to hit and run at all is to floor it like it's flooded...then it'll run for a second but will never rev up and get going like it should...so i watched some vids on youtube for setting mixture on holley's wich i was pretty sure about anyway...turned the idle mixture screws in to snug and then out 1 and a half turns. is this a symptom of a bad vacuum leak or is it something to do with the carb maybe not enough fuel?
it's a holley 4160...list-6619...which is 600 cfm...it's on a 302 with 3 speed.
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I just bought a Prius C Three on 4/5/12 and noticed there are fog lights installed on the car and yes have verified there are bulbs in the lights. After reading through the owners manual it shows how to turn these on, but my car does not have the added dial switch on the turn signal shaft where you turn the normal lights on. I have looked the car over completely to see no switch. Should I contact Toyota about this or something I would have to modify myself.
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Install new HV Battery in 2005 and now I have no dash display lights.
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I just bought some LED blinkers for my tail lights and after I installed them, I'm getting a fast blinker thing like my lights are out. I know that LEDs don't draw as much power but is there anyway to fix this? Also, if I buy the Valenti tail lights that are LEDS, will I have that issue with them?
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I saw a really weird thing happen about half an hour ago. Hadn't driven that car today until I made a quick trip a bit ago to pick something up.
As I was coming back from the store I noticed the display was showing extremely low numbers with barely any speed/coasting. After I got up to ~30mph and started slowing down, I noticed the display was actually showing the mpg decrease as I applied the brake.
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While most of the emphasis I've seen on improving fuel economy seems to focus on warming the car up quickly in cool/cold weather, I seem to be experiencing significant mpg drops at the other end of the spectrum.
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I am new to the prius 2010.
I filled up last week and I noticed that as soon as a single cell display in the fuel display part has some empty section like 3/4 fuel(single cell) the next day or after that that whole cell disappears without it showing that single cell as being empty.
Around which fuel cell, when displayed, is it important and recommended to fill up gas again, with one cell remaining or two etc.
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When I go out to do errands around town (I live right in town) I get horrendous gas mileage. Now, I understand gas mileage is high at the beginning of a trip, but for this long and this high and under these circumstances? I'm getting ABOVE 10l/100km when I have 80% charge available (for americans, that's disgustingly high MPG like, pick-up truck high), AND my foot is completely off the gas. Literally, coasting, or braking, and I'm still sucking up gas. What the heck?
Is this just because it takes a certain amount of time for the engine to run no matter what or something? I still don't see any reason for me to be eating up all that gas when my foot isn't even on the gas AND most importantly, I have charge available. Feels pointless for me to use my car for what I use it for 70% of the time, which is for quick errands around town at low speeds. Thought the prius was suppose to be a superstar for this kind of thing.
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So my fuel light started blinking after 480 miles. How much more can I drive it? The display shows 30 miles left before fill up but I read in the manual that when the fuel light starts blinking there is 1.6 gallons left so should that be like 75 miles left. Just wondering. To be on the safe side, I went to fill up.
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I was heading to the gas station with one bar on the fuel gauge. When I got there to fill up I had two bars, same Miles To Empty (45). What would cause that?
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I had a new fuel pump installed on my 1997 Honda Civic (145K miles) last week after it started hesitating and bucking one day and then the Check Engine light came on. I picked the car up last Thursday, and it runs and starts, but I still feel "something off"...it seems to have small surges of power/lack of power while I drive. Again, always starts and runs but it just doesn't feel right.
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Motor has been stalling intermittently since May. Finally had the fuel pump replaced last Friday (8/17/12). have been driving the car back and forth to work since then with no problems until yesterday. Made a run to the local convenience store and the car was shut down for about ten minutes. Came back out and car would not start! Gave it about 10 minutes and then it started again. Got it into the garage and let it run for awhile and it stalled out. Got the check engine light (a first for that) so swapped the fuel pump relay with one of the same part number. Fired right up and did not stall out.
Also, check engine light went out on its own. Swapped relays back to original positions, motor started right up, stayed running and check engine light went out on its own. What could be causing my problem? Since check engine light came on then went out on its own, would there be any trouble codes to read? One other thing, original relay has pinkish residue on the pins. What could that be about? First time poster so I hope what I have typed out makes sense. 2003 Accent 4 door with 1.6L DOHC motor. Approx 79000 miles.
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Shut my truck off for about 15 minutes and wouldn't start back up. Installed new fuel filter. And gonna try changing cps. Torque says Rpm 180
Ipw. Bouncing between 600 - 3000 Hpop. 250 while cranking Voltage 10.9 while cranking. Ipr starts about 15% and slowly climbs to about 88%
Fuel pressure about 65%
Tried unplugging cps. Gonna check oil now though I check it every time I fill up and it never uses any.
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I finally got my fog lights installed and wired up. They're not working at all, and I've checked all the fuses under the steering wheel. I'll get the multimeter out and checked the Wires them selves in the morning, but shorts that I don't know what to do. I can't find a good diagram of the fuse box either so I don't know which one to check exactly so I just checked them all.
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My backup lights only work when I have one bulb or the other installed but not both. The other 4 mini lights in the same circuit on the trunk work. The backup lights do not work at all when the headlights are on. Could it be the backup light relay and where is that located? I checked wiring on the trunk and multiple bulbs.
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I have a 2006 Ford F-150 V8 XLT 4x2 SuperCrew that I had to replace a few old/blown bulbs on (left Front Blinker and rear Right Blinker/Brake). I decided to go with the Pilot brand LED replacements, and verified that they are the correct replacement models to the factory bulb part numbers.
Per what I've read from others' experience doing this... I opted to buy the EP27 flasher to fix the issues with hyperflashing, rather than going with Load Resistors. So, all LEDs blink/flash with no problem.
The issue seems to be related to me having the Headlight Switch in the DRL-on position, and the headlights/parking lights not being on (i.e. if it's still daylight and it's just the DRL). If the Headlight switch is left in the off position or in the DRL-on position, when I brake or signal (left or right) the entire electrical system will flash/illuminate with the brake/flashing activity (this includes all LEDs and brake lights and the Stereo backlighting... anything that is dimmed by leaving the Headlight switch in an 'off' or DRL-on position). The only way to fix the problem is to turn the Headlight switch into the parking or headlights on position.. then the issue doesn't occur, all signal and brake light activities work as expected.
It's not a big deal, but I guess I'm lazy and like having the headlights come on and off automatically... plus, I'm a little worried that there might be an electrical issue that could cause me issues if I don't address it now.
The only thing I have NOT done is replaced the LEDs back with Incandescent bulbs, to see if the problem is totally eliminated. I have verified that no fuses are blown in the fuse panel, etc.
I'm sure the issue is easy to fix and I'm hoping the fix isn't to remove/replace the LED lights with OEM lights..
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Why my low pressure light is on and why my mfd is telling me I have an airbag fault? Where would I want to start diagnosing this problem? I ran power and ground wire with no sensor issues, but once the remote and RCA wires were connected I got the sensor issue.
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My brother installed a CD player in my car a while back and did something wrong. The interior lights don't work anymore, the clock on the dash resets to 1 o'clock when the car is shut off and the driven miles reset every time as well. I have checked all the fuses and they are good. Someone went in and looked at the wires behind the CD player and they didn't see anything wrong. What could cause this issue? (Subaru Outback 2000)
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