Prius (2010-12) Fuel :: Idling To Warm Up Is Beneficial For MPG?
Jul 26, 2013
I can't believe what I'm saying as I always say to start driving (slowly) to warm up the engine. Besides, who has the time?
But, this AM, I was stopped as soon as I exited my driveway as big garbage trucks blocked my cul-de-sac street. The engine went through the warm up cycle as I waited stopped and later, I went through my usual commute.
The thing is the commute ended at 67 MPG (indicated). I usually get "only" 60 MPG on the very same route, unless the engine is prewarmed before driving and I get exactly 67 MPG. I always clear MPG trip counter before driving on a daily bases.
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It seems like it takes an awfully long time for the good mileage to get going from a cold start - even when it's warm outside. The last 5 miles of my commute are great, but the first 10 miles not so much. How much effect does ambient air temperature have on this process.
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I changed timing belt and water pump DIY back in Oct 2015. Ever since then, I get rough idling (car kind of vibrate and engine kind of struggling) after warm start (no problem with cold starts, it did stall once after the warm start).
Two days ago, I got a P0000 code, I thought it was due to low oil (happened before, I topped off oil 2500 miles ago), so I changed oil and filter. No problem yesterday, but today on my way to work. I got the p0000 code again.
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I have noticed that due to warmer weather and more Prius C owners that the MPG's are going up. No many in the 40's mpg anymore. I enjoy people posting and obtaining over the EPA of 50 mpg, the 60 mpg figure appears to be fairly easy
to obtain with the Prius C.
On our Prius the last mpg was 52.3 calculated this is real world driving with my wife driving 75% of the time and she does not drive strictly for MPG's.
I believe we should all take a minute and pat ourselves on the back as all the countless gallons of gas we our saving and will be saving for our friends and neighbors who have no choice but perhaps to drive large cars and pickup trucks...
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Well I bought my Prius 2013 II about a month ago so I have been learning alot about the car as I go and reading how to effectively get the best mileage from the car. I have only filled it up once so far but one thing I am trying to figure out is the mileage at start up. I have read that you get the worst mileage when you first start up the car after a nice period of no driver which I understand. They say 5-10 minutes of driving and it should be fine.
But my thing is it seems like every time I start my car up it goes through the whole slow mpg start up. Is that normal? Let me give you a example. I had to drive from work to a movie theater which was about 9 miles and I averaged around 68 mpg. Yes right when I started my car after a 8 hour shift the bars on dashboard next to the MPG were going up and down and would stay around 25-30 mpg for the first few minutes but would eventually go back to 99.9 when i was coasting.
Well anyways I drive to the movie theater just to get out and get a gift card for fathers day. So I am only gone for maybe 3 minutes. I get back into my car and start it up and my fuel consumption plummets to 20-30 mpg for a few minutes before it goes back into warm up mode. I was told your car should only do that your initial warm up after it hasnt been started but it seems like when I do many errands and I have to turn my car off for whatever reason. My gas plummets until I get the ball rolling again. IS this normal?
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Here in the northwest the weather has been dry and temps in the 40's to over 60 degrees. The mpg's have increased about 5-7 mpg over just a month ago.
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how much fuel is consumed during a typical warm-up period for the Gen III? I realize there are variables related to ambient temperature etc..
my interest is to get a baseline consumption figure to compare warm-up saving devices/techniques against.
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My PRIUS makes noise at warm up stage and it was lasting three days.
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Ever since I got my 2010 Prius (about a week ago) I always get a little scare whenever I'm backing out of a parking place. The Prius seems to think that the ideal time to start the ICE to warm it up is when I'm moving backwards and halfway out of the spot... which, of course, causes a little vibration in the car and makes me think I hit or ran over something. It really scared me the first time... especially since I had only had the car a few hours then and I'm mostly used to it by now, but every now and then it catches me off guard.
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While most of the emphasis I've seen on improving fuel economy seems to focus on warming the car up quickly in cool/cold weather, I seem to be experiencing significant mpg drops at the other end of the spectrum.
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I am new to the prius 2010.
I filled up last week and I noticed that as soon as a single cell display in the fuel display part has some empty section like 3/4 fuel(single cell) the next day or after that that whole cell disappears without it showing that single cell as being empty.
Around which fuel cell, when displayed, is it important and recommended to fill up gas again, with one cell remaining or two etc.
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When I go out to do errands around town (I live right in town) I get horrendous gas mileage. Now, I understand gas mileage is high at the beginning of a trip, but for this long and this high and under these circumstances? I'm getting ABOVE 10l/100km when I have 80% charge available (for americans, that's disgustingly high MPG like, pick-up truck high), AND my foot is completely off the gas. Literally, coasting, or braking, and I'm still sucking up gas. What the heck?
Is this just because it takes a certain amount of time for the engine to run no matter what or something? I still don't see any reason for me to be eating up all that gas when my foot isn't even on the gas AND most importantly, I have charge available. Feels pointless for me to use my car for what I use it for 70% of the time, which is for quick errands around town at low speeds. Thought the prius was suppose to be a superstar for this kind of thing.
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I know car likes to shut off at 3-4 bar, but what if I want to keep the battery closer to full in order to get more power. Is there any way to tell the computer to keep engine running?
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I have a 2012 Prius. It has twice shut down spontaneously when idling while in traffic. I have explained this, the Service Advisor said he had never heard of it. My question is: why is this happening? The car has been properly serviced. It never happened with my 2006 Prius.
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I am having a problem with the heater on my 98 2.7 Intrepid. Will not blow hot air when idling (just warm). After several minutes of driving with heat on air temp goes from hot to warm. It might just be me, but it seems like the air flow is cooler coming out of the defrost vents than from the dash/floor vents. Thermostat has been replaced (proper operation verified before installing). Had to replace gooseneck and heater coil supply tubing due to a leaking bleed valve. There appears to be NO air in the system.
Heater core was backflushed, there appears to be no restriction. Hose temp on exit line is approx. 15 deg. cooler than supply line when fan is running. Blend door actuator was replaced last spring (motor shorted). When temp control is moved from hot to cold temp changes drastically and door can be heard moving. On-board ATC diagnostics indicate all is good. Engine is running at normal operating temperature, not overheating or running cold. Is there a cabin filter or inlet supply for the air that could possibly be obstructed? Air flow seems adequate, not restricted. AC works fine.
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My accent had been sitting neglected for a few years. I decided as a side project I would get it in working order before winter and do more to it next spring. The car had a rough idle when started but I had ran it nearly all day a few months ago.
Last week I changed spark plugs and a few other minor things. The undercarriage was wire wheeled and coated with POR 15. This weekend I added gas (with gas cans, car is off road currently) and added techron fuel treatment. The car took two tries to start (always two) so I changed the fuel filter and that problem went away. However, I noticed that when the car idles it begins stalling when it reaches temperature. Thermostat says car is not overheating.
After 15 or so minutes of idling the car just cuts out and SOMETIMES will start but usually it just cranks and cranks. If I wait a bit it will start up again but will die more quickly and this will keep happening until I let it cool. I am also noticing a fairly loud clicking sound from behind fuel injectors. Not the injectors themselves but somewhere behind the fuel injector rail. I am unsure if this had been going on previously or if it is a symptom of the stalling problem.
I cleaned throttle body, IAC, crank and cam sensors though no error codes to speak of. Rough idle takes a few minutes as at first the engine is smooth.
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So my fuel light started blinking after 480 miles. How much more can I drive it? The display shows 30 miles left before fill up but I read in the manual that when the fuel light starts blinking there is 1.6 gallons left so should that be like 75 miles left. Just wondering. To be on the safe side, I went to fill up.
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I was heading to the gas station with one bar on the fuel gauge. When I got there to fill up I had two bars, same Miles To Empty (45). What would cause that?
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Having problems with the A/C on F150 2006 or newer. It blows warm air while idling. I have taken mine to 2 different dealerships had Ford engineers down and no one can seem to find the problem. I love Ford vehicles but I can't handle this in the these hot summers.
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I have a 95 4.0 EFI inside of my 83 Ranger. Once the motor warms up, it starts to have an idle issue. I have to press the gas, in order for it not to cut off. Here is a video I posted a while back. A person suggested that it could be the MAF needed to be cleaned. I did that, and it did not work.
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My '04 Ranger has over 240k on the odometer. Runs great and has never given me any issues. Everything checks out OK - all the fluids, filters, and whatnot are in good shape. No CEL or any other indication that anything is wrong (except for maybe the IAC valve and clutch slave.)
I've noticed, though, that when I fire it up in the mornings to let it warm up while I scrape the ice and snow off the windows, the heat/defrost will not blow warm air. It doesn't matter how long I let it sit, it will only blow ambient air through the ducts.
When I get going down the road, however, the heat kicks in, after a bit, and works very well!
I've not found anything that would indicate an issue with the blend door or any other component and this is the first vehicle I've had that did this.
Is it normal for a 4.0 SOHC Ranger to do this? Or is there something I'm missing?... It's not really that big of a deal, but I do find it a bit odd that it would do this.
I mentioned the IAC above - I think it's "sticking" every once in a while and, when it does, I'll hear a loud "thump" right before it idles down to around 1k rpm. I can't see how this would affect the heat, though...
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