Prius (2010-12) Fuel :: EV Mode Kicks Off At About 20 Mph
Apr 26, 2012
I've been hitting the EV switch to keep the car in EV mode for the first couple minutes. It kicks off at about 20 mph. It does let me get up to speed using EV mode so my hope is that will translate into higher fuel savings.
The default and Eco modes require starting up too slow while hitting EV lets me apply more power and faster acceleration. Wondering why Toyota didn't engineer that into the car though?
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I've been driving an 2007 Prius unitl last week, when I upgraded to an 2010 model. I'm very happy with it so far.
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Well been playing with all the mode to see what they do and the one thing I have noticed is I get worst mileage under ECO Mode. Why it doing this.
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In reading the manual, I note that it says to use the ECO mode when you're doing a lot of stop and start driving. Does that mean I should NOT use it on the interstate? My daily commute consists of 11 minutes start and stop to interstate, 11 minutes on interstate, and another 11 minutes of start and stop. My Prius is not quite a month old, so i am still learning.
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New to Prius. I have read everything I can find on getting better MPG and find different ideas about using EV. My car is a 2014. Most say DON'T use EV except to move the car or just before the ending of your trip.
My thoughts are the ICE is not very efficient at or below 25 mph. Why not use EV excelling from a stop? Or driving 20 mph anywhere? I notice my car goes electric below 45 mph using very light throttle on a level or slight down slope.
I haven't lifted my foot to force it there, just driving to go with traffic or maintaining speed. So some Toyota software engineer thought it best to use electric even if I'm doing 44 mph ???
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I searched but did not find a post about entering diagnostic mode of Prius 2010. Is that possible at all?
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Just bought a 2010 Prius IV and loving the car.
Minor annoyance, but wondering why it's so difficult to get the car to enter or stay in EV mode.
When I'm able to get into EV mode, it often beeps that it's leaving EV mode due to excessive speed, but I'm often doing barely 10 mph when this happens. I was under the impression that I could do up to 25 mph. Yesterday, I was floating at 8 mph and it said that was excessive speed.
More often, though, I can't even get into EV mode. It says "EV mode currently unavailable" and why. Doesn't matter if I'm not moving or if I'm driving slowly.
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It has been documented that the computer will let the ICE coolant cool to a lower temperature before mandating it to fire up again to maintain that lower limit.
Why isn't this done in other modes? Is this compromising anything when it comes to emission or engine protection? Since full power is available in ECO mode, one can force the ICE to drive with full output, even when it is a little cold.
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We have 2 trips coming up this summer (600 miles and 1400 miles), these will be my first long distance with the Prius.
Did anyone tested fuel economy using the cruise control in ECO vs NORMAL vs PWR ?
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Gen 3 .... Driving in Power Mode to obtain the best mileage? I find I am getting better mileage in Power Mode.
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This morning I was playing around with my 2010 Prius "B" mode - I realize today that when the Prius CVT is in "B" mode the Prius ICE won't turn off even when it is at a complete stop -- instead the ICE runs/idles at a 996 RPM / .20-.40 GPH while stopped in traffic. The coolant temperature (@190F ) doesn't matter, Battery State of Charge (54% soc) doesn't matter. To re-enable the stop-start idle technology - I had to switch the Prius CVT back to "D" mode. I end up burning a bit more fuel on this trip because it took me a while to realize that I was in "B" mode and that the stop start idle technology had disabled in the "B" mode ...
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When the battery power is low, the engine will kick in and then there is a loud "exhaust" sound. Are those really sound from the exhaust or some other fan?
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I got in the car today and started it... I was waiting a few seconds for someone to get in the car (it was in the garage) and as soon as the engine kicked on there was a very very large long rattle noise i immediately turned the car off. Waited again and turned it on same noise.. the only thing I found was a cover under the car towards the front was really loose. ( I haven't hit bottom or anything while driving) but I did have the lighted door sills just installed the other day. But it never made that noise..
btw i have 1100 miles on it..I looked under it and is the black dust protector thing supposed to be loose like if I push on it I can make it rattle..
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I have a concern about my 2010 Prius V(five). I've noticed some issues lately that may all tie in to one big problem.
1. My ev mode will not work at all. My battery will be fully charged and not in "B" mode. Turning car off and on will not work.
2. Engine will not turn off when coming to stops. Mind you when the battery is above 3 lines.
3. Throttle response feels like it's in PWR mode(super sensitive) but the engine is leggy. If I floor it for a sec the RPMS are super slow to come down.
4. The Eco line is quick to go in PWR portion and I'm not pushing it any harder than I was before all of this started. It seems like when I push the gas it skips the electric and automatically pulls from the engine.
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Just filled up with Shell V-Power 91 Octane Fuel for the first time in my MKVI Golf 2.5
I know 91 isn't needed in this car but I like filling up with good fuel every once in a while.
After filling up my check engine light came on right away, also my engine wont allow me to go over 3k RPM.
Why did this happen and what can I do to fix it?
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Several time lately I've gotten in to go to work and the battery shows for half sometimes 3/4 of charge, but it will not go into EV mode. But I can be in town driving and it will go into EV mode with only 2 bars of charge. Whats up with that.
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2009 Hyundai Sonata GLS 4cyl 135k miles...
Everything has been going fine. On Thursday I stopped at a gas station. Came out and the car won't start. Had it towed back to the house.
It cranks, but won't turn over.
Fuel pump kicks on.
Spark plugs were worn, so changed them, can't hurt.
They spark, although it looks like it may be weak.
After changing the spark plugs and trying to start it, pulled them and you can smell fuel, so it is getting into the engine.
Checked the connections of the wire harness (all I believe)
Anything specific to this model that would suddenly not run. I drove it 3 times that day, no problems starting, running, driving, anything. So I'm kind of stumped on the sudden development.
The check engine light had been on, but I did disconnect the battery when I was looking at something else before I checked the codes. So it isn't throwing any now.
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I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent that just started not filling up. The pump kicks off every couple seconds. From reading other posts it sounds like its the evap canister (wife would often top off the tank). The question is, does the evap canister need replaced or do the hoses need cleaned? Is there an easy way to get the hoses off?
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My friend is an aggressive driver. After she drives there is a drop in the calculated mpg's by at least 2 mpg sometimes as much as 5. Would it be better for her to drive in POWER MODE not only for the mpg's,?
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I've been using the EV mode - the EV portion of the curve without pushing the EV button - to run around town and to maintain speed once I've accelerated to traffic speed. It really boosts the mpg numbers and I'm able to get 55-60mpg on my 47mi. Roundtrip mostly highway commutes (hills included). Without the running in EV it's probably 42-48mpg.
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I've been driving a bit different to try and get some more mpg. I will pulse up to about 45 then let off till ev kicks in and keep the bar right at the verge of going into ice. I can usually cruise at 40 mpg doing this on flat roads while only using the battery. Although if I'm able to do this ev mode for a long distance my battery runs down then the ice kicks in even with the bar below the ice line.
I'm still only getting 50-51 indicated mpg this way but much better than the 42mpg I got just driving it... My route has some hill and my tires are no lrr so I'm think that's has some to do with my low mpg.
Question is does driving 40 mph in ev mode till battery runs dead then recharge with ice just to run battery down again coasting with ev do any harm to the battery?
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