It has been documented that the computer will let the ICE coolant cool to a lower temperature before mandating it to fire up again to maintain that lower limit.
Why isn't this done in other modes? Is this compromising anything when it comes to emission or engine protection? Since full power is available in ECO mode, one can force the ICE to drive with full output, even when it is a little cold.
As a Prius driver, I have driven my 2012 Prius more than 110,000 miles. I love the car and have a suggestion on improvement - Create new software to allow the driver to monitor engine coolant temperature and RPM from either the dash display or touch screen display.
I like knowing if my car engine is up to temperature before punching it on the freeway ramp or about to overheat before an idiot light goes on.
I've been driving an 2007 Prius unitl last week, when I upgraded to an 2010 model. I'm very happy with it so far.
View 15 RepliesWell been playing with all the mode to see what they do and the one thing I have noticed is I get worst mileage under ECO Mode. Why it doing this.
View 19 RepliesI've been hitting the EV switch to keep the car in EV mode for the first couple minutes. It kicks off at about 20 mph. It does let me get up to speed using EV mode so my hope is that will translate into higher fuel savings.
The default and Eco modes require starting up too slow while hitting EV lets me apply more power and faster acceleration. Wondering why Toyota didn't engineer that into the car though?
In reading the manual, I note that it says to use the ECO mode when you're doing a lot of stop and start driving. Does that mean I should NOT use it on the interstate? My daily commute consists of 11 minutes start and stop to interstate, 11 minutes on interstate, and another 11 minutes of start and stop. My Prius is not quite a month old, so i am still learning.
View 16 RepliesNew to Prius. I have read everything I can find on getting better MPG and find different ideas about using EV. My car is a 2014. Most say DON'T use EV except to move the car or just before the ending of your trip.
My thoughts are the ICE is not very efficient at or below 25 mph. Why not use EV excelling from a stop? Or driving 20 mph anywhere? I notice my car goes electric below 45 mph using very light throttle on a level or slight down slope.
I haven't lifted my foot to force it there, just driving to go with traffic or maintaining speed. So some Toyota software engineer thought it best to use electric even if I'm doing 44 mph ???
I searched but did not find a post about entering diagnostic mode of Prius 2010. Is that possible at all?
View 19 RepliesJust bought a 2010 Prius IV and loving the car.
Minor annoyance, but wondering why it's so difficult to get the car to enter or stay in EV mode.
When I'm able to get into EV mode, it often beeps that it's leaving EV mode due to excessive speed, but I'm often doing barely 10 mph when this happens. I was under the impression that I could do up to 25 mph. Yesterday, I was floating at 8 mph and it said that was excessive speed.
More often, though, I can't even get into EV mode. It says "EV mode currently unavailable" and why. Doesn't matter if I'm not moving or if I'm driving slowly.
We have 2 trips coming up this summer (600 miles and 1400 miles), these will be my first long distance with the Prius.
Did anyone tested fuel economy using the cruise control in ECO vs NORMAL vs PWR ?
Gen 3 .... Driving in Power Mode to obtain the best mileage? I find I am getting better mileage in Power Mode.
View 10 RepliesThis morning I was playing around with my 2010 Prius "B" mode - I realize today that when the Prius CVT is in "B" mode the Prius ICE won't turn off even when it is at a complete stop -- instead the ICE runs/idles at a 996 RPM / .20-.40 GPH while stopped in traffic. The coolant temperature (@190F ) doesn't matter, Battery State of Charge (54% soc) doesn't matter. To re-enable the stop-start idle technology - I had to switch the Prius CVT back to "D" mode. I end up burning a bit more fuel on this trip because it took me a while to realize that I was in "B" mode and that the stop start idle technology had disabled in the "B" mode ...
View 4 RepliesMy '04 Passat 4Motion (station wagon) engine coolant temperature gauge, fuel gauge, and outside temperature display all stopped working in the same time. Interestingly enough, car has 32K miles and just ran out of manufacturer warranty 2 months ago.
What could be happening? Should I be checking fuse box or this may be related to some more serious failure?
I have a concern about my 2010 Prius V(five). I've noticed some issues lately that may all tie in to one big problem.
1. My ev mode will not work at all. My battery will be fully charged and not in "B" mode. Turning car off and on will not work.
2. Engine will not turn off when coming to stops. Mind you when the battery is above 3 lines.
3. Throttle response feels like it's in PWR mode(super sensitive) but the engine is leggy. If I floor it for a sec the RPMS are super slow to come down.
4. The Eco line is quick to go in PWR portion and I'm not pushing it any harder than I was before all of this started. It seems like when I push the gas it skips the electric and automatically pulls from the engine.
Just bought a 2002 Prius for my daughter at an auction and the car has been driving fine the last few days even though the hybrid warning light has been on and off. Found no fault code with OBDII. Found out later from Toyota service history the cause of the hybrid warning light was a leaked hybrid battery. The previous owner disposed the car off at the auction before the problem was fixed.
I was driving today and the coolant high temperature came on and I can't rev/drive. Stopped engine and re-start after a while and coolant high temperature warning light gone. Drove a short distance and coolant high temperature warning light came back on. Used a OBDII and found no fault code. Radiator hose by the radiator cap is cold but hose at the top right side of radiator by the hybrid system is hot. Opened radiator cap and it is full of coolant.
The car has been serviced on 12/26/2012 before it went to the auction. Can air pocket trapped in the radiator cause this coolant high temperature warning light and can't rev/drive problem. Also today is the first time we didn't use the heater. We used the heater to defog the windscreen and heater work.
2005 Prius...113k miles...master warning light & a coolant temperature briefly light up several times while commuting. The inverter coolant tank stays full, but the motor coolant is empty every day after a 30 mile commute. I fill it up & 30 miles later it is empty. There are no puddles or evidence of a leak while parked in the garage.
View 3 RepliesI was driving my 2007 Prius on the freeway this morning after picking it up from my mechanic and the high coolant temperature warning light came on for ~4-5 seconds but then disappeared. I was able to safely drive it another 5 miles to work and park. My mechanic changed the engine and transaxle fluids in my car (along with pcv valve and serpentine belt replacement, engine oil and filter change) just before, so we think this could have been due to an air pocket in the coolant system. I will need to check the coolant level once the engine has cooled down and refill if necessary. I plan on driving it around locally before going on the freeway in case the warning comes on again.
View 11 RepliesJust filled up with Shell V-Power 91 Octane Fuel for the first time in my MKVI Golf 2.5
I know 91 isn't needed in this car but I like filling up with good fuel every once in a while.
After filling up my check engine light came on right away, also my engine wont allow me to go over 3k RPM.
Why did this happen and what can I do to fix it?
I've got my Alpine XM radio running through the NAV unit in the AUX setup using the connector I got through this site. It had been working fine but recently the right channel cuts out, and after a while it cuts back in. Seems more frequent after the weather turned cold. No problem on the radio or cd settings. I've checked the connections and they are fine, ie. no reaction when I wiggle the connections.
View 5 RepliesMy 1989 740 Turbo wagon cuts out while I'm driving. It only ever does it at about the point when the engine first reaches its normal operating temperature. It can cut out while idling or when driving at normal speed. I'm not sure if it's related to temperature or time (it usually cuts out at about the 5-8 minute mark), or if this is simply coincidental. It does it nearly every day.
It's definitely caused by the fuel pump relay cutting out. I've replaced this already, with no improvement. Something is causing the relay to suddenly lose an input.
Once cut, it takes a few quick flicks of the key to the START position for the fuel pump relay to receive power again. It will then drive faultlessly for the rest of the day. Although, if allowed to sit and cool for many hours, it will sometimes do this again.
I worked with my buddy troubleshoot and remove a faulty fuel pump. He received it a week or so later and did the install himself. After this, he states that while pumping gas at the gas station the nozzle no longer cuts off automatically when full causing overflow. He says this has happened at different stations and different pumps. I told him to go double check connections and that everything was sealed. I am wondering what could be causing it..
2004 Passat v6 wagon auto