Prius (2010-12) Fuel :: Difference In MPG Between B And D In Normal Driving Conditions
Jun 28, 2016
A large auto magazine has reviewed the Auris Hybrid (Gen III Prius drive train) while remarking that driving in 'B' gives better regen. This auto magazine also does a fuel economy evaluation and noted engine noise as a negative point for the car.
Now, how much fuel economy is affected during normal city/highway driving when you drive in 'B' rather than 'D'? And as a bonus. How much more will the engine run due to the missing regen?
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Having issue where you get a continuous whistling while under normal driving conditions. I recently went to stage 3 Revo software using the Stasis Revo K04 upgrade kit, installed professionally. Have looked at all possible sources of the whistling, have narrowed it down to the the turbo itself. Can hear the car whistling from a good distance away from it. when not moving if I rev the engine i can reproduce the whistle as well, just not sustained. As soon as you press the throttle above 2400 RPM it starts whistling and continues to whistle as long as throttle is pressed. Car is almost un-drivable because of whistle.
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Model is 2006 2.2l Diesel (Europe - so second gen)
I've noticed that as the weather has gotten cooler my heater just doesn't heat up at all under normal driving conditions. I can see the actuators moving at the back of the unit and the car seems to get up to temperature fine.
When climate control is set to auto the A/C seems to come on intermittently which I find quite odd even when I have the temperature up quite high. If I leave the car in park and rev the engine heat will start to come through the vents, but this doesn't really represent normal driving conditions.
I have noticed small patches up water under the car when it's parked, so assumed there was a water leak, but when I top up the water it quickly overflows. So I'm thinking it might be an airlock maybe?
I'm really stuck, just want to see if there is anything I can rule out before I drop it into a garage to see if they can get to the bottom of it.
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I was just thinking about this last night when driving home under heavy rain. It was nice to have it on the highway turns where there was heavy flooding and hydroplane possibilities, especially since I am used to 4 wheel drive in these conditions. I was wondering if I shouldn't be turning it off under normal conditions though? I know it's handy to do so if you are stuck in heavy snow but since the default is always on I wonder if there is any other gain to only using it when needed rather than only turning it off when needed?
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On my 2002 F250 7.3 I kept getting a check engine light when I pulled my 5th wheel uphill, I took it to a shop and they told me my HPOP needed replaced. I bought a new pump and installed it. Now my check engine light comes on and turns off during normal driving conditions. I do not have a code yet but hoping there is some idea on what might have happened.
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We have 2 trips coming up this summer (600 miles and 1400 miles), these will be my first long distance with the Prius.
Did anyone tested fuel economy using the cruise control in ECO vs NORMAL vs PWR ?
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On a '03 Solara, I've got this code. It designates Shift Solenoid Performance (stuck off) for the S4 valve. It makes sense because the trans won't shift into 4th gear in normal conditions.
But I was wondering what the likelihood of the transmission speed sensor set this code by giving a faulty reading that was too slow. The car seems like it is going somewhat faster than the speedometer is reading. RPMs are over 3000 at 50 mph. Seems like I'm doing 60-65. I wonder if the ECM is not commanding the 3-4 shift because it 'thinks' the car has not reached the required speed?
Or possibly the button on the shifter is simply malfunctioning. The indicator light on the dash comes on if the button is pushed, and goes out when you push it again. I'm not familiar with what the normal RPM would be at highway cruising. It's a 4 cyl with 169,400 miles. Would torque converter clutch be more likely to fail than the shift solenoids on these cars?
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I pulled up to a costco gas pump with "0" miles left to go on the dashboard computer (non-Nav).
I know that manufacturers always leave room for reserve, but I pumped 9.89 gallons to fill up.
According to the specs, the 2011 Prius holds 11.9 gallons.
So where did that other 2 gallons go?
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I recently purchased a used 2007 and have since driven 308 miles on it. There are currently 3 bars left on the fuel gauge, and the computer reports that I'm averaging 45.8 mpg.
However, I don't see how that mpg is possible because if I have been averaging 45.8 mpg over 308 miles, I should have used only 6.27 gallons...and 6.27 gallons is only 56.5% of the 11.9 gallon tank size, compared to the 70% that I've used based on my current fuel gauge status.
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OK, long story short. I had P2284 code on my scan gauge after replacing the oil cooler. I contributed it to air in the oil system. Sure enough, a few days of hard driving and the code went away.
Now a week later, I fired up my truck on a cold start yesterday morning. It's not that cold here(low 40's in the morning), but the oil started off at about 50F. Correspondingly, ICP at is higher, at around 1000(it's like this every morning until oil warms up). I usually let it warm up a tad before driving but yesterday I didn't, and hit the gas pedal a little hard once and the truck started acting like it does when you get this code.
Sure enough, check scan gauge and the code is there. I drive home(about 15 minutes). A half hour later I start the truck up, check codes, and it's back to normal. Of course, oil temps were higher and ICP in the normal range between 580-590.
So is this normal? Since it doesn't trigger a CEL I assume it's more of a system parameters code? Only other thing I can think of, if this isn't normal, is a mucked up IPR screen from when I installed my BPD oil cooler.
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So I was driving and suddenly three warning lights came on. The Master warning light (Red triangle with !), Check Engine Light and the Hybrid System warning light (Car with !).
My AC works fine and I was able to shut it off and start it back up with no problem. I also did see a difference in driving.
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I went out and checked my engine oil level when the engine was cold and the oil level was near the bottom of the hash marks. Drove the gti for around 15 min and fully warmed the engine and waited five minutes and rechecked the oil level. to my surprise the oil level was actually higher! it was now at the top of the hash marks. if I added oil when the engine was cold I would've over filled my engine. I always thought it was the other way around with a cold engine all the oil would have drained back to the oil pan and should read higher when cold. Why the oil level reads higher when the engine is at normal operating temperature?
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I have 2010 proud and headlight assembly is broken. What is difference between HID and Halogen headlight assembly? Would it be possible to by halogen assembly and just use Existing LED bulbs?
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is there any real difference between EV and ECO mode at parking lot speeds, ie <10mph ? both seem to use just the battery at those speeds, so I'm putting my money down on "no difference"
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I just picked up my 2010 Prius yesterday and have a few questions. I live in area where there are hills, not as many as northern PA but there are still some substantial hills nonetheless. My question is how often can I go into the power zone going up hills and still achieve good gas mileage? I try to stay in the ECO zone whenever possible.
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Gen 3 .... Driving in Power Mode to obtain the best mileage? I find I am getting better mileage in Power Mode.
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I noticed a drop on my mpg while driving with an open sunroof.
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I bought my 2011 Prius III back at the end of December and so far have had 3 fuel ups. Not counting my first tank, my second tank I got 44.4 MPG calculated with mindful driving (driving slower and pulsing and gliding etc). The last tank however, I decided to drive a little more like how I drove my previous car (2001 Lexus ES300). This last fuel up resulted in 41.4 MPG calculated. I feel like I have to work quite a bit to keep it above 43 MPG. I am located in Southern California Orange County, however 90% of my driving is NOT in Socal Traffic. I also changed my oil to Mobile 1 Synthetic Enhanced Fuel Economy yesterday at 1200 miles.
I also have read a lot about break in at 3k-5k, which is keeping me hopeful. How much can I really expect, if any at all? I am not sure what to think on this because as with the people who have experienced good jumps after a break in, it seems there is an equal amount of people getting great MPG right off the bat.
- What fuel economy are you getting and how are you determining fuel economy? (trip computer or manual calculations) 42.9 average for the last 2 tanks - calculated
- What fuel economy are you expecting and why? 45-48, brand new car and adjusted driving techniques. I was hoping for 50+
- What are the approximate outside air temps? 55-80
- How long are your trips? Daily, about 3-5 driven. Weekends 80-160
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I have purchased a used Prius c (Aqua), Model 2012 "S-class" 6 months back, imported by someone with a meter millage of 71,500.
I heard that it gives 22-24 Km/ltr, but what I am getting right from day one is 16Km/ltr. I got it computerized checked by Toyota. They tuned up the car, changed the spark plugs, but there is no change.
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While pulse and glide, is it better in Eco mode or normal mode with Prius c?
Eco mode will take more time to pulse, it may lower mpg?
Nexus 7 ?
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Burning oil smell but can't figure out where or why.
No Drips (checked standing on dry ground).
No Drips (checked after spraying water down on ground).
Checked Oil, level doesn't change.
Checked Transmission, level doesn't change.
Only thing that has changed is that i went with a 5w-40 oil about 4000km ago. Could it be burning minute amounts of oil during driving under hard conditions (mountains/hills)?
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