Prius (2010-12) Fuel :: Car Takes Too Long To Warm Up From Cold Start
May 7, 2013
It seems like it takes an awfully long time for the good mileage to get going from a cold start - even when it's warm outside. The last 5 miles of my commute are great, but the first 10 miles not so much. How much effect does ambient air temperature have on this process.
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Why when I am in hot weather it takes a long time for the a/c to start cooling off the car...
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I wonder why the AC takes time to start heating on cold mornings. Actually. It gives warm air after about 5_10 minutes of driving. Is that OK?
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I love my 2011 Forester except for one thing. (you all knew this was coming) it seems to take forever to warm up! My Forester has a blue light on the dash (Coolant temperature Light) It turns red if the temperature is too high and it is blue when the car is started and then goes out when the car is warmed up. To me, this seems to take too long. My Forester has 50,000 miles on it. The other day I timed how long it took to warm up. The forester sat at work for 8 hours. When I started it up to go home, (it was 42 degrees), it took almost 4 minutes for the blue light to go off indicating the car was properly warmed up. All my coworkers were long gone. I bought the car new and I intend to drive it for many years so I have been waiting for the blue light to go off. I get a hard time from friends and family telling me to get going...I don't think it takes this long for other cars to warm up.
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This applies to a 2001 F-350 with 73,000 miles on the engine. Engine oil level is good, batteries charged, HPOP reservoir is full and passes Cody test with flying colors. Fuel pump runs for 20 seconds at key on. Start takes about 6 seconds. If I shut the key off and restart immediately it starts in under 2 seconds but if I wait about 30 seconds it's a 6 second start. Here is an AE that I ran on it, it has me stumped. FWIW it seems to start quicker when AE is hooked up. ?? An odd whir type of noise comes out from somewhere under the hood when I first turn the key on and when I clear the codes with AE.
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I was curious as to how ambitious a project this would be and if special tools are needed.
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I have always wondered how I should drive from a cold start.
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So the first issue is, if the vehicle is cold (regardless of temp outside) it takes forever to start it. It cranks and cranks and cranks and after a couple seconds of cranking I stop, wait a second, then try again. Usually it takes two sometimes three tries to start it. The guy who I bought it off of said it has newer glow plugs (last year I believe) and also I have replaced the batteries. Once its warmed up it does not do this at all.
Secondly and also something that just recently started happening, my water in fuel light keeps kicking in. I drained the water out of the water catcher reservoir under the truck multiple times and the first time water actually came out but every time after that simply diesel fuel comes out. I added a bottle of water remover to the fuel as well and ran it down to a quarter tank. Then filled the truck up completely, added two more bottles of water remover. The light still comes on. I noticed it only comes on when I am going up or down a fill. When I am driving on flat ground it does not kick on.
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My AC went out the other day. My wife said it took about 10 to 20 mins to finally start working and blowing cold and the next day it would never ever kick in anymore. Vents are blowing but just a outside temp air, also the a/c light comes on and i hear slightly different idle when ac engaged, however i dont really hear anything happening with the compressor.
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I sometimes pulloff after a minute then Im off, but slowly until the engine temp gets to the middle. I won't go caveman on it until the oil temp is almost in the middle too (never quite gets to the middle for the engine oil temp)
Is this logic right? Lexus guy told me it'll warm up as you go. If it was like zero degrees out then yes Id let it idle for 10-15 minutes.
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I am suddenly getting 8 mpg decrease both long and short trips. Rotated tires, checked psi and did an alignment but couldn't find cause. I remember my old car had an engine thermostat and when that was stuck open or close the mpg decreased a lot too.
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Im using my rear heat for the first time since I purchased my new GX premium, it seems that the rear heat takes forever to finally get warm and its really never hot even at the highest temp. I think overall I find that the gx takes awhile to start pumping out hot air compared to my RX, but I don't think its normal for the front to be blowing hot and the rear to still be cold. I already took it Lexus and they said it was all working fine.
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I just punches a 2010 Camry 4 cylinder with 44,646 miles. Very clean. I've owned 2 camrys in the past a 97 and 2002 that both reached well over 200,00 miles without a hint of trouble. Well, when I start the 2010 when its cold like from overnight it sounds like the lifter are ticking?, it lasts until the engine is warm and then I don't hear it. It still has the 2 month 3000 mile warranty from the dealer. I just don't seem to remember our other Toyota sounding that way.
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LOVE everything about the Prius C! Only issue is that once I punch the Bluetooth option, it takes at least a good 30 seconds to connect. Is that normal? (I use an iPhone 4S with updated iOS). I was driving an Elantra with the same feature and it hooked up within 5-10 seconds.
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I can't believe what I'm saying as I always say to start driving (slowly) to warm up the engine. Besides, who has the time?
But, this AM, I was stopped as soon as I exited my driveway as big garbage trucks blocked my cul-de-sac street. The engine went through the warm up cycle as I waited stopped and later, I went through my usual commute.
The thing is the commute ended at 67 MPG (indicated). I usually get "only" 60 MPG on the very same route, unless the engine is prewarmed before driving and I get exactly 67 MPG. I always clear MPG trip counter before driving on a daily bases.
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I have a 03 vw jetta gli and whenever the engine is warm when it was recently on, takes a while to start like 3-5 second but normal when it is a cold start..
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Well I bought my Prius 2013 II about a month ago so I have been learning alot about the car as I go and reading how to effectively get the best mileage from the car. I have only filled it up once so far but one thing I am trying to figure out is the mileage at start up. I have read that you get the worst mileage when you first start up the car after a nice period of no driver which I understand. They say 5-10 minutes of driving and it should be fine.
But my thing is it seems like every time I start my car up it goes through the whole slow mpg start up. Is that normal? Let me give you a example. I had to drive from work to a movie theater which was about 9 miles and I averaged around 68 mpg. Yes right when I started my car after a 8 hour shift the bars on dashboard next to the MPG were going up and down and would stay around 25-30 mpg for the first few minutes but would eventually go back to 99.9 when i was coasting.
Well anyways I drive to the movie theater just to get out and get a gift card for fathers day. So I am only gone for maybe 3 minutes. I get back into my car and start it up and my fuel consumption plummets to 20-30 mpg for a few minutes before it goes back into warm up mode. I was told your car should only do that your initial warm up after it hasnt been started but it seems like when I do many errands and I have to turn my car off for whatever reason. My gas plummets until I get the ball rolling again. IS this normal?
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Having issues starting the car when it's cold. Sometimes it takes me 2 or 3 tries to crank the car.
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Revo stage 2 --1.8t ... For the past few days I have tried to figure this issue out I am having with my 337. The car takes 2 or 3 times to start from being cold. Once its started it has no issue it drives awesome, pulls hard no codes when vag com'd. Can start it up anytime with ease for the rest of the day. Tried doing to solve:
-I have pretty new coilpacks---FSI- they are ok
-Spark plugs are 3 months old --checked those
-Checked Battery and its all normal and no issue
-Cleaned the throttle body = No change
-Installed new CTS yesturday (green) < no change
-Cleaned the MaF = NO change in start up but car runs way smoother
-Put in new Filter= No major change
-Did the Crank sensor under a month ago (Bosch)
I have a few more things on my list to check :
1. Fuel pump relay
2. Fuel Pressure Reg
3. ECU relay/ check immobilizer
4. Fuel Pump
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The colder it gets the harder it takes to start my 2000 Ford Explorer. Have read that it's the Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
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As the title says I am suddenly having a long crank when starting and low oil pressure when when warm (above approximately 100 degrees). IPR goes to 85% when cranking. Stored codes were P2290 and P2291. Other symptoms are low power and what sounds like a power steering pump with low oil whine and low power. (It is not power steering related however, I checked.) I pulled the oil filter and cranked engine and filter bowl filled in less than 10 seconds.
Oil did have a fair bit of air bubbles. Oil has 5000 miles and is Motorcraft 10w30 diesel. I have not added any since the last change. I do not have the new style pump so it's not the STC fitting. What my issue is? I do have AE if any other info is required. Particulars are in sig. The searches I have done combined with the mileage I have lead me to either the low pressure pump is failing, or the high pressure pump has lost the ball bearing out of the side.
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