Prius (2010-12) Fuel :: Boost In Car Power With AC Turned Off
Oct 27, 2010
I've just automatically left my AC on the past month I've had my 2010 Prius. I turned it off this morning and was surprised at the obvious boost in the car's power. It still ran in the ECO range, but with lots more zoom. Now that the warm weather is leaving the SF Bay Area, I might get used to leaving the AC off! My last 2 MPG's were 50.0 and 45.9 I'm hoping to see an increase w/o the AC on all the time.
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Went to see a movie, Vehicle was running fine. Then, on the drive home I noticed there was no turbo boost at all. Was a struggle trying to pass someone going 10km faster than me. Got home, Reverse the Vehicle into my parking spot then the engine died. Car wont start now. Sounds and feels like the fuel pump went, turns over, a mere whisper of the engine trying to get going, but never does. Plugged it in, getting misfire codes. Checked the Diverter valve and seems to be fine, checking the front PVC Valve tomorrow. Its just really strange how the turbo wasn't functioning at all, but the vehicle ran all the way home, Then died when i backed it in my spot. and now wont start. Its throwing me off, All i can think of is Coil Packs, spark plugs, Diverter Valve, PVC valve. 2010 Tiguan 2.0t.....
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Have had a 2012 Prius Four for about one year with no problems. Within last several weeks, it started to go dead (no power, but charged batteries) intermittently after normal park and shutoff. Frequency of this issue has increased.
The only way to revive the car seems to be to turn on the rear dome light. Once the dome light is turned on, the Nav screen turns blue saying "System Downloading, do not turn off power" and car starts and runs fine. I've tried to keep track of circumstances when it happens and have not been able to determine any commonalities (hot/cool weather, solar recirculator on/off, short/long trip, dry/wet day).
The battery is charged and appears to maintain a charge as well as when it does restart, the battery is showing good charge 60-90%.
Car clock time will be off by as long as it sat without power (again indicating that the entire car is going dead).
It has happened immediately after turning off (I find out because I can't use key fob or touch to lock the doors).
It has happened while car was unattended (car locked, left and came back several hours later and can't get into car without manual key unlock, clock was off by about the same time I was away from it).
Front cabin lights, pressing brake and power button, headlights, radio, door locks, etc...none of it will re-enable the power. Except the dome light for back seat.
When it's in this no power state, just switch the dome light on and the car comes back to life (still needs started with normal procedure). I didn't believe my wife until I had this happen to me multiple times in the last week as I drove it to troubleshoot it.
What is causing my electrical gremlin. I'm thinking maybe a flaky relay. Makes no sense to me why the dome light would trip something to start up again. Worried that the dome light trick won't work one of these times.
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When the shaded area is in the battery half of the ECO bar I would expect to have the mpg be 100. It sometimes shows only 25 mpg. Just purchased a 2010 and learning how to get the best mileage possible.
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Gen 3 .... Driving in Power Mode to obtain the best mileage? I find I am getting better mileage in Power Mode.
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I have a 2003 camry v6 that doesn't start. There is no power to the fuel pump when the key is turned to the on position. Where is the relay for the fuel pump?
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The other day, my father-in-law was driving my '91 Explorer and it just died on him. I assumed that the fuel pump quit becuase it wouldn't come on when the switch was turned on. I had a brand new lying around so I dropped the tank and put it in but it still won't work. I checked the inertia switch and it wasn't tripped. There is no power coming to the new pump at all. When the switch is turned on, there is a noticeable "click" inside the engine bay. Would that be the fuel pump relay making that "click"?
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I'm hoping it's a small simple fix when I climb under the hood. Has happened before, but was an easy fix. The smell is much stronger this time. Any major problems any of you have had if I can't find the culprit?? Learning as I go...always up for checking on every possibility.
2004 F250 SUPER DUTY 6.0 ......
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While most of the emphasis I've seen on improving fuel economy seems to focus on warming the car up quickly in cool/cold weather, I seem to be experiencing significant mpg drops at the other end of the spectrum.
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I am new to the prius 2010.
I filled up last week and I noticed that as soon as a single cell display in the fuel display part has some empty section like 3/4 fuel(single cell) the next day or after that that whole cell disappears without it showing that single cell as being empty.
Around which fuel cell, when displayed, is it important and recommended to fill up gas again, with one cell remaining or two etc.
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When I go out to do errands around town (I live right in town) I get horrendous gas mileage. Now, I understand gas mileage is high at the beginning of a trip, but for this long and this high and under these circumstances? I'm getting ABOVE 10l/100km when I have 80% charge available (for americans, that's disgustingly high MPG like, pick-up truck high), AND my foot is completely off the gas. Literally, coasting, or braking, and I'm still sucking up gas. What the heck?
Is this just because it takes a certain amount of time for the engine to run no matter what or something? I still don't see any reason for me to be eating up all that gas when my foot isn't even on the gas AND most importantly, I have charge available. Feels pointless for me to use my car for what I use it for 70% of the time, which is for quick errands around town at low speeds. Thought the prius was suppose to be a superstar for this kind of thing.
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2004 6.0. 160K miles.
I'm about to replace an injector and wanted baseline info on fuel pressure before doing the work. Using a gauge tapped into the top of an aluminum alloy fuel filter cap (from bulletproof diesel), I turned the switch key on but did not start the engine.
Static pressure jumped to 60psi, but as soon as the pump cut off the pressure dropped off to zero. Again, engine not started. I cycled the key off and back on and the pressure hit 60psi and held that until the pump cycled off, then dropped back to zero.
I'd like to get a few confirmations that fuel pressure should or should not fall off when the pump kicks off.
Side note, during the crank process the pressure jumps and holds at 60psi and stays at 60psi while idling. I have not conducted a dynamic road test yet. Didn't have the adapter to connect my long hose...
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So my fuel light started blinking after 480 miles. How much more can I drive it? The display shows 30 miles left before fill up but I read in the manual that when the fuel light starts blinking there is 1.6 gallons left so should that be like 75 miles left. Just wondering. To be on the safe side, I went to fill up.
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I was heading to the gas station with one bar on the fuel gauge. When I got there to fill up I had two bars, same Miles To Empty (45). What would cause that?
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2011 F250 6.7 Had the fuel filters changed by the dealer today. No noticeable sounds when I left the dealership, & no fuel stops on the way home (120 miles one way). When I got home, before shutting off the truck, I heard a loud groaning/singing from inside the truck. With the truck still running, I get out, & the groaning/singing is very pronounced....never heard this before & appears to be emanating from the fuel filter underneath the truck.
I turned the truck off, then turned the key back to the position that the fuel pump turns on, and wow, the pump is very loud. Definitely something going on because when I turn the key for the pump to turn on but not start the truck, I can feel the vibrations of the pump working from inside the truck and when listening from underneath the truck, it is very loud. Before today, the truck never made this noise and never heard the pump before.
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How can I turn the MID cluster back on? I tried the disp switch trying to get back into settings. But nothing turns on the right side of dashboard. I took my car to a valet parking. Jumped into my Prius and noticed the MID wasn't working. I read my car manual with no Avail! Do I have to go to the dealership?
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I got a 2010 Prius with factory heated leather seats and problem is that they are always powered on, driver and passenger side, both of them.
When I press switch under the bar it makes click sound but does not make any difference, the light on the buttons are steady ON no mater you press it, hold it or anything.
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2010, 82K miles. Oil changes done between 5k-8k.
Quick details:
Last month I went to start my Prius, when the ICE turned on all I heard was rattling.
Checked oil and not 1 drop was on the stick, add 2Q to top off.
Now every 150 miles I have to add up to a quart.
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I have a 2010 Prius IV. Yesterday, a new indicator started to flash after I turn off my car. It is an image of a car and lock. I checked in my manual and it appears to be related to immobilizer system. I have the smart key and it is flashing this indicator and beeping with both smart keys. I called a Toyota dealer and it sounds like it is just my security system activating after I turn off my car. The man said it was normal and it should have been doing this long-term. My car has never beeped and flashed this indicator until yesterday. Is it something I should be worried about? Does this mean my security system has never been activated until yesterday???
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On Friday, the traction control light turned on (with no sound) and stayed on while driving, stopped and parked. I brought it to my local dealership to check and see what was wrong. I was informed that the steering angle sensor circuit went bad. I asked if the car could drive fine without the repair and was told it would be okay. I also asked if this error light could be turned off and was informed that it was impossible. I went home and parked. Sunday night, I noticed that none of the interior lights would work.
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I had my Prius for almost 4 years and I'm used to all the hybrid noises: brake pump after opening the door, emission control pump hours after driving, high pitched inverter noise in EV, etc. This is different. Very faint and I only noticed it because I opened the hood right after driving. The car was completely off, but there was some small electric motor activated somewhere inside the engine. Is this electric coolant pump?
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