Prius (2010-12) Fuel :: Accelerating Briskly From Stop Compared To Slower Acceleration
Nov 4, 2011
I have read that when accelerating from a full stop, it is better to accelerate briskly, but keeping the bar graph in the ECO zone, to cruising speed is better overall for gas mileage compared to accelerating slower and taking more time to reach cruising speed....
I have also heard that it is better to accelerate using the bar graph and making sure it only goes half an inch past the ECO display above it. This way uses less RPM.
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I've noticed that when accelerating from a stop and turning onto an adjacent street to the left or right, there seems to be stuttering or shaking coming from the engine. I'm usually in ECO and only 1/3 of the way into the "engine half" zone on the HSI. It's not consistent but has become a bit of an annoyance.
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I know with the regular Prius it was accelerate briskly to speed. but just what is "briskly" ? for some it could be at the rate of zero to 60 in 3 seconds, other it would be 20 seconds. So what would be the best rate of acceleration for the C to get best mileage? how about best acceleration to speed, say 50 mph, and still get good mpg without pissing off the rest of the road?
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Eco Transmission. Neutral at stop lights save gas compared to Drive?
I almost feel like when I'm stopped in Drive it's actually in neutral. I'm curious if being in Neutral at really long red lights would save gas?
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This morning I was playing around with my 2010 Prius "B" mode - I realize today that when the Prius CVT is in "B" mode the Prius ICE won't turn off even when it is at a complete stop -- instead the ICE runs/idles at a 996 RPM / .20-.40 GPH while stopped in traffic. The coolant temperature (@190F ) doesn't matter, Battery State of Charge (54% soc) doesn't matter. To re-enable the stop-start idle technology - I had to switch the Prius CVT back to "D" mode. I end up burning a bit more fuel on this trip because it took me a while to realize that I was in "B" mode and that the stop start idle technology had disabled in the "B" mode ...
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I have a 94 Chevy Suburban C1500 with a 5.7L, 350 Engine. It has 235,000 miles on it. I purchased it about 4 years ago with 191,000 miles in very good condition and obviously well maintained. I have continued to maintain it well.
For the past few months it has begun to start a little slower that before and when accelerating cold or warm there is a spot where it looses power. It doesn't sputter or die it just looses power. I can press the accelerator farther and it will come back to life and do fine. After a 20 -30 minute drive if I park for a while, 20 - 30 minutes, when I start it up it dies. The only way to keep it running is to give it the gas and smooth it out at about 1500 rpm for 10 - 15 seconds. Then I can drive it with no problem most of the time though it still has the dead spot on acceleration.
There is a good spray pattern from the throttle body injectors. Plugs and wires are relatively new and plugs look good (AC Delco Rapidfire Platinum). When I turn on the ignition without going to start, the fuel pump builds pressure for 4 - 6 seconds. I haven't checked the fuel pressure yet and am considering investing in the rig to do so. I recently replaced the fuel filter but that didn't work.
The check engine light has not come on but many of the lights in the cluster are burned out and I haven't felt like going to the trouble to fix that so it is possible that the check engine bulb is bad.
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When driving my 2003 Volvo XC70, it sounds as if I am driving on nobby mud tires. The sound (rrrrrrrrrrrr) gets faster and slower with the cars acceleration and deceleration. I know that the sound isn't caused by the tires because I am running on Micheline Harmony tires which are fairly quite. I am concerned that it may be a gear going bad.
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I've been noticing a clicking noise when the rx comes to a complete stop and accelerating from a stop. Sounds like a sticky caliper but just wondering if it could be some other suspension issue ... RX350 ...
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Two weeks ago, I purchased a pre owned/certified 2014 GS 350 F Sport and about a week later my parents purchased a pre owned/certified 2014 GS 350. When driving the GS 350 in normal mode, my parents, my son, and I find the acceleration to be slower than that of my F Sport (also driven in normal mode). When we asked the dealer about the different feel of acceleration, they insist that the acceleration should be the same as the engines are identical. The acceleration in the GS 350 in normal mode feels like acceleration in my F Sport in Eco mode.
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A while ago I had a '99 Ranger. Long bed, regular cab, 2wd, 5-speed, 2.3. I had really poor acceleration. I was used to Toyota pickups with the 2.4 22RE, and the Ranger was considerably slower to come to highway speeds.
So, I took it to two different dealers, and they told me "that's just the way they are." I guess I believed them and sold the truck. Now, I am kind of thinking about another Ranger. Do people here think the '99 2.3 has an acceleration problem? Are there certain years to avoid the I4 in a Ranger?
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I have owned several 7.3's and I have never encountered this issue. I recently picked up a 2001 7.3 with 200k miles on it. When I bought it I knew the glow plugs were going, I also knew it accelerated slow. I went ahead and replaced the plugs, valve gaskets, and added a heavy duty glow plug relay, along with an oil change, and fuel filter.
For some reason, the truck just dose not accelerate very fast at all, significantly slower than any 7.3l I have owned in the past. It appears that I shift at about 3000 rpms and it takes a while to get up to speed. I would like to get it mechanically sound before I restore the body. I was thinking it was the ebpv? but what else could it be?
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I have a 2010 F150 Xlt super crew with a 4.6L. I've noticed lately when I start from a full stop the the truck has a small shutter or hesitation before it starts accelerating. Its barely noticable but it is there. What it could be? I had the tourque converter replaced just before my warranty was up, I've only put 30000 Km on it since. Was wondering if it could be the cause.
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I've been driving a 2014 base model GX for a little over year now. I noticed that when the vehicle is in drive and is stopped at a stop sign/light on a steep incline (i.e. front of vehicle is at significantly higher than rear), when accelerating away from the stop, the traction control system (?) will beep and make some noise for a second or two if the car rolls backward from the stop when the brake is released.
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My wife and I are new Elantra owners, car is just about to hit 9000 miles on it. I don't know when the noise started happening, but wasn't too long ago. My wife is okay with it, but as for me I find it rather annoying that the car is so new and already making noises. I call it a click but she describes it as a thunk.
Here's the details. The car is an automatic for starters. The noise mainly happens when accelerating from a dead stop. I'll be at a red light and when it turns green, I let the brake go and gently step on the gas and click...there is the noise. Its just a single click, loud enough to annoy me and loud enough that I could hear it when the radio volume is set to 12 or so.
It has also happened mid driving when I release the gas pedal to slow down without using the brakes. Right when I release it, I hear the click...once again a single click.
Now I have taken it to the dealer as a concern because that click wasn't there when I bought the car. They told me it was normal and after waiting 2 hours for a simple oil change to be completed I wasn't ready to argue with them. But I am getting to that point that I'm ready to argue with them, considering the car is so new and still under the warranty.
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As I have experienced hesitation on acceleration from a stop, I found a TSB # L-SB-0154-10, that addresses this condition for the 2010 SC430. It was issued in 12/1/2010. I am not sure if it would apply to any other years. The TSB entails re-flashing he PCM with updated software.
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I have a 2010 Ford Ranger Sport. RWD with the 4.0L. Currently Sitting at 46,000 Miles.
Where I am located, it is very cold. Downwards of 5 Degrees F. I just started noticing a strange sound in my truck. When accelerating from a stop light I hear a single knock, and to my ear it sound as if it was coming from the rear. First thing I did was check the U-Joint, but there is zero play and it is very tight.
After driving quite a lot and unable to diagnose the problem, I part and got out of my truck, only to hear that same noise when I stepped out of the truck. (I am not fat 195b lol). So I sat back down and I heard it again. Did this a few times and consistently heard it. I got into the bed of my truck and started to jump around and got the same knock.
I shook the exhaust pipe to see if it was making the noise, but it wasn't, which makes sense considering while driving over bumps I could not hear anything. I am totally lost as to what this could be....I want to add that I CANNOT feel any difference driving. Feels great.
My ideas on problems are as follows;
-Spare tire
-bushing
-loose bold
-leaf spring (maybe a hanger)
-The cold creating noise like always.
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Have a 2001 Corolla with 150k miles on it. It isn't straight up dying, but it is shuddering when driving at slower speeds or while stopped at a stop light. Have had the air intake looked at so that shouldn't be it. Sometimes the lights on the dash will dim when this happens but not sure if it might be a battery issue or that is just happening because the car is dying.
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I own a 2010 Jeep Liberty and this is my first RWD vehicle (when set in the normal 2WD mode of course). I notice that whenever I accelerate from a stop, on even a slightly wet road, the rear wheels spin and I get the traction light on my dashboard. I then need to take my foot of the gas and accelerate ohhhh soooo slowly. I've never had this kind of wheel spin on my previous AWD or FWD vehicles. Is this a known "feature" or RWD vehicles? Or maybe my one year old tires are inadequate? With my Liberty I could try switching to 4WD LOCK mode before attempting the acceleration to see if this works.
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Just this past weekend my wife got her 2010 Golf Highline with the 6-speed tiptronic transmission. Just a quick question about the gas pedal. when it is on "D" it really feels heavy and sluggish when going from full stop to acceleration. the pedal feels so hard and when you step on it feels like its not going at all. but as soon as it goes on 3rd everything seems ok. and then we tried putting it into "S" (sports) mode and everything was really good and quick. but when on this mode you need to be really hard on the gas pedal for it to run smooth. so i guess my question is...is it really like that when driving in the "D" mode??
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We have owned our 2008 Prius since new so when it misbehaves we know it.
Starting yesterday, when accelerating from a stop light we would be on electric ONLY. The ICE would not even TRY to start. There were NO fault lights or other indications. Then the ICE would run a bit and stop and sometimes begin to act almost normal. We watched the HV battery charge go from 3/4 to one bar in a matter of minutes.
We limped it back home, the ICE was running so we let it run until the battery got up to three bars and he ICE shut off. Then we got in my 05 Prius and finished the task at hand.
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I drive a 94 camry xle with the 5sfe motor. It stipped working on while i was going down the interstate. Before it stopped, i notice that the speedometer was getting slower and slower. So i pulled off to the side of the road and before i was able to stop and get it in park, it quit. Smoke was rolling out but it was like a white clear smoke. When i got it home, i tried starting it and it sound like the compression on the cylinders was way out.
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