Prius (2010-12) :: Fog Light Fuse Keeps Blowing Out?
Feb 19, 2012
I've had the PC Shop fog light kit for about a year now along with a 35w HID kit. Was working fine for about a year and they stopped working. I checked the 20A fuse and it was blown. Replaced it, and immediately blows again as soon as I turn on the fog lights. Tried again with 15A, 25A and 30A, same thing. Perhaps coincidence, but the kit initially stopped working after a rainy day but I've driven my car through rain and snow in the past without issues. The HID ballasts are mounted 2ft off the ground and are waterproof.
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I have a 2011 Prius 3 and it keeps blowing fuse 29, its the fuse for the dome lights and then the dome lights don't work and the traction control light stays on. Why this fuse keeps blowing?
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I have owned my Prius three, not III, for just over 2 years now. The first year I had no issue but now, when charging my iPhone 6, the fuse blows every 2-4 weeks. (My phone is the ONLY thing I ever plug in there). I finally tried replacing the 15amp fuse with a 20amp (I know, that's a no no). But I still blew the 20amp fuse now.
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I have an 04 prius. Recently my tail lights went out. Change fuse worked good for a few hours kept a close eye.
Next day 10a fuse blew again and then 2 more times in same day. My tail lights go out and license plate light go out together when this happens. What can I do?
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This issue came on suddenly. I unplugged the license plate lights- fuse still blew. I don't know where the wire harness is for this group of wires going to these lights to check for frayed or melted wires. I don't see any damage any where. I am severely limited for funds for a mechanic so I need to try and figure this out first myself. Looking for pictures of how I can traces the wires through the car?
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My 2010 Sante Fe started blowing the BCM 1 fuse.The vehicle will not even crank over. Its at the dealer for the 3rd time time this week. 1st time thought it was a faulty fuse, 2nd time replaced the drivers door lock actuator.
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I have no volume or voice command button. Also the amp1 fuse keeps blowing right away. Would a blown amp keep the voice command button from working?
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Every time I replace the fuse(under the hood) it blows almost immediately and no interior light work. When on all doors and overhead lights do work so I don't believe it's one of them shorting. Even tried bigger fuse.
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My 1990 F150 blows the F1 fuse after driven a short distance. When the fuse blows the ABS light in the dash comes on.
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2006 F-250 SD... I Keep popping the 15A #17 fuse under certain conditions - Driving forward
1. Start with good fuse.
2. Start engine, while in park, turn on parking light...4.8A on circuit. No problems.
3. Put into reverse and drive. down the block around the corner and back up to the house... No problem. 4.8A on circuit.
Put the shifter into drive and - POP - the fuse goes. I never see a jump in the current. 1-5 seconds until fuse goes. While conducting testing, I have had the fuse blow when shifting from reverse to park. Looking at the wiring diagrams, I don't see a common wire that would cause a short when shifting. What I should try next?
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I have to manually lock my car doors, and use the door handle unlock sensor to open them. If i use the key FOB or power lock button it blows the fuse. I would like to lock my rear hatch, locking the car the way i do i can never lock the rear.
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My 01 f150 keeps blowing a fuse. It makes the O.D. light flash, only have 2nd gear, motor runs real bad. I forget how many codes it had but it was a bunch. It doesn't blow the fuse rite away. Sometimes its days between sometimes its hours. Where to start looking for the short?
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I've got an 86 ranger sport and I'm having trouble with the lights. The turn signals work, and ALL 4 bulbs in the back are new. The brake light fuse keeps blowing, and the fuse for the tail lights is good but they won't come on at all. I was told there was a direct short somewhere, does that sound about right? And is there a common place where they tend to short out?
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Have 2 problems that are giving me major problems.....especially with 100 degree heat in Dallas.
1. Ac stopped blowing cold last night out of blue. Still blows just not cold. Replaced bad fuse and drove for 5 minutes. Blew again. Checked out the control/ circuit board but looks ok. Really cant afford dealer.
2. Check engine light problem for months. Gas gauge wasn't working. Replaced fuel sending units and it fixed that but still light. Code says p441. Dealer said need solenoid valve. Replaced both the solenoid valve and the purge control valve. Still check engine light.
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I'm having brake light issues with a 2001 Suzuki Grand Vitara. The brake light fuse keeps blowing. The last time driven with me following the driver side brake light was dimmer than the passenger side. At one stop the driver side brake light pulsed brighter for a split second then went back to dim. A few stops later it became as bright as the passenger side and stayed that way for the rest of the trip. The driver put in a breaker fuse and it was in during the observed trip. I'm not sure of the brake light visual symptoms without the breaker fuse in other than that the fuse keeps blowing which prevents the vehicle from being shifted out of park. What the problem could be? Bad ground?
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The dome light/under hood light keeps blowing the fuse. I can't tear the entire interior out to try and chase down the short. Just wondering if any common area this circuit shorts out!
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We bought this car a month ago, 2007 US touring model. It had a 15A fuse in the Gauge position (spec calls for 10A there) when we bought it. As of last week it is blowing a lot.
What we've noticed:
- First time it happened I noticed my signals weren't working. After 5 minutes of driving I pulled over and turned the car off and on. At that point the Combination Meter went blank. After getting home I found the fuse blown. Replaced it with a 10A fuse, and that blew right away when starting the car. Replaced it with a 15A fuse and it worked for a few trips.
- While I was away for a week, my wife replaced the fuse 3 times while it blew away from home. (she estimates every third trip) She has found it seems to happen when putting the car in reverse.
- Today the car is working fine, and I can't replicate the problem.
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I got Corolla 2012. Dome light fuse 10 amp is blowing off as soon as you put it in. Light bulbs checked seems it is not a problem. Maybe relay?
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Anyways I have a 2006 F350 6.0 and a couple weeks ago I have been having issues with my running lights. In the fuse box under the dash fuse location 17 blows as soon as I insert the fuse leaving me with a short somewhere, no instrument cluster lights (but the instrument cluster gauges work and operate fine), and no running lights on the truck. I have been looking for hours and days and can't seem to locate this short (which I am assuming it is).
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Based on Rattle from driver's side door.
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My 2010 II has two power sockets, one under the radio, and another inside the center console. The center console one does not work, whereas the other one does. I checked both the fuses, and even swapped the two fuses. I also checked several other fuses just to be sure. No fuses are blown and nothing changes by swapping the 2 power port fuses.
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