I recently noticed that when at idle, the engine is vibrating heavily. I know for sure it was really smooth and now as if there is something loose in there due to which it is vibrating. I don't know what is causing this i have always keep changing oil myself every 10k miles and transmission oil at every 30k.
View 19 RepliesI did a tune up on my 3.3L Dodge Grand Caravan only to find the engine is vibrating heavily. This tune up included a new coil pack, plugs and wires.
I did happen to notice a separate thing when looking at the Crankshaft Pulley that it seemed to be wobbling while the engine was running.
I got a braking issue today and I'm not able to drive my car anymore. I have a 2010 Prius with a continuous beeping sound, ABS and warning lights ON. I can hear a small sound (pulsing, cranking, vibrating) in the engine compartment after the hybrid system is started. I guess this is the actuator.
View 6 Replies130k miles, 4 cyl camry LE 2006, im very good about my oil changes
The car gets a good amount of vibration while it idles, you can sort of notice it with the dashboard vibrating, I've known it was happening but didn't seem terrible so I hadn't put much thought into it. It also goes away when i get moving, but will sometimes get worse again at stop lights.
Today I was jumping a friends car (2009 mercury mariner), having both hoods open at the same time made the amount my engine was vibrating pretty noticeable compared to hers. Totally different cars, i know, but still seemed like it was a bit much.
My question is what areas should i be looking into as the possible culprit? What could possibly cause an engine to have more vibration as it ages? Just to clarify, it doesn't seem super intense, like about to tear itself off the frame, but just enough so that you would notice it.
I am working on a friend's '92 Celica GTS Manual trans, and the massive vibration at idle is telling me its time for engine/trans mounts.
After some searching online..I finally found a place that shows all of the mounts. HERE
In that diagram, which of the mounts/dampers should I replace, and which of them never wear and can be left alone? Or, should I go all out and replace all of the rubber?
I have heard of going with poly mounts, and filling the old mounts with polyurethane caulk from HD, and all of that jazz - I'm not really interested in that - I want to stay OEM here.
I upgraded from a 2009 ES 350 to my 2013 GS 350 recently. One huge difference I noticed is the sound of the car while in idle. My ES was so quiet that sometimes it was hard to tell if it was on or off when parked. My GS has an irritating vibration noise from the outside that is very noticeable when I'm parked. I can hear it when my windows are down and I'm sitting in the driver's seat. It's not loud, so to speak, just incredibly irritating to the point where the vibration hurts your ears. When I'm in my garage and the sound is a bit more isolated, it sounds the loudest from the driver-side mid-to-back section of the car. However, the car itself doesn't feel like it's vibrating.
I also noticed at times when I start my car, my engine gets loud and the RPM shoots up to a bit past 2 (while still idle), then quiets down and evens out. Is this normal for this gen GS? The only reason I ask is because neither of things happened on my ES, so either I'm not used to it, or something is wrong. Driving/ performance seems normal. I do understand this engine should be a bit noisier than my ES and I am enjoying the extra HP and AWD ... I have a full, unlimited mileage warranty so getting anything fixed won't be an issue. My main concern is wasting my time going all the way to the dealership and embarrassing myself if it's completely normal.
I have a 3.0 Ranger, AT 2WD, from 2001 with 175K miles on it. I have a CEL on, with Misfire cylinder #5.
Also when the truck is cold and I step on the gas, it seems to run on like 3 cylinder for 2-3seconds and then it somehow fixes itself and runs great until it warms up.
After it warms up, it shakes violently at idle. The shaking goes completely away once I'm past 1200 rpm or while driving. What I tried so far:
- All new Motorcraft filters (Air, fuel)
- Motorcraft Plugs
- Motorcraft Wires
- Motorcraft Coil
- Ran thru two cans of SeaFoam
- Checked injector resistance
- "Reset" the ECU
- Cleaned MAF sensor
- Cleaned IAC
What else I need to check?
Just took my brand new GX460 with 1000 miles on a road trip. I found the vehicle drifts heavily to the right, so much so that I have to even hold the steering wheel several degrees to the left to make the car go straight. I drove my other cars on the same road and they are not as bad and generally go straight. Is this possible? Can a new SUV of this price come out of the factory misaligned?
View 8 RepliesHad a first-time issue with my car today. Background, 2010 II bought in June, just short of 15K miles, never had any kind of mechanical issue.
While en route to work this morning, I was about halfway into my 15 minute drive to work, when I noticed my engine was idling very high, I would guess 2500 rpms. It started doing it while I was driving around 35 MPH, then continued doing it while I stopped at a traffic light, and continued when I continued driving to a speed around 50 MPH. The high idle while stopped was not transferred to the wheels, so it was not a safety issue as it would be in other cars.
When I got back up to 50, curious to try something, I hit the ECO mode button and the car returned to normal. I took ECO back off and the car was still fine. I had no further problems.
I would point out that this morning was about the coldest temp that the car has experienced. Outside temp ranged from 7 to 10 degrees.
When the car runs at a certain RPM during idle, the door panel rattles/buzzes. This is usually when the car is first started. The idle speed changes at some point as it warms up and then it no longer rattles. Sometimes it also buzzes during acceleration when the engine hits a certain RPM or when driving on coarse spots in the road.
It has been very difficult to reproduce it at the dealership because there seems to be no way to control when the engine runs and to control the RPM. On top of that, it is affected by ambient temperature. If it is isn't cold enough, it doesn't happen. Is there any way to manually control starting and revving the engine? Is there any well-known issue that causes this or a known fix for the buzzing?
I am having problems with my Prius. I have a 2011 prius with 145000 miles. I also have issues with the engine shakes initial idle and goes away with check engine light saying 2 & 4 misfire. Also I had a couple off issues where I was at a dead stop and when I accelerate the engine would feel like it Boggs and shakes from 0-20 mph then go away after. From 20-80 mph it's perfectly fine.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 Toyota Prius. The other day I was stuck in a traffic jam - under 5 mph for at least 30 minutes.....my engine started knocking/vibrating...once out of the jam, it felt like the engine was "missing"....I took it to the Toyota dealer in town and they changed the spark plugs and cleaned the area...the car runs a little better but I was in a funeral procession yesterday and after about 15 minutes the car was knocking again. What the problem could be? The mileage on the car is 125,000 (I drive a lot!)...
View 3 RepliesI had a minor problem today with my prius, as while driving in LA rain, my Engine check light came up and engine started vibrating. It is okay when a motor is driving the car, but as soon as engine kicks in i feel vibrations and Engine Check light starts blinking. Rest of the electronics and battery charges normally.
I had to drive in the rain today for about 50 miles... Also, I found similar thread but no answer.....take a look with following subject thread. (I cant post direct link.... "Vibration and check engine on my 2008"..
How to remove the engine air filter you have to unscrew the front and back of the housing? Yeah. So I'm missing the back bolt AND the metal/silver thing that holds it in place. The dealer told me they don't sell the part separately and I'd have to purchase a whole new unit ...
Additionally, the engine air filter housing vibrates heavily. It's not due to the above and what's causing it. It's vibrating so much I'm almost afraid it's going to damage other parts.
This is a 2009 Camry LE 4 cyl.
I recently got an oil change at EZ Lube and since then my engine seems to be running a little harder. You can feel it vibrating more than normal while idling and when stopped at a light when it turns off, it REALY turns off like it's choking out and sort of kicks the whole car a bit when it shuts off.
I just switched the air filter just in case as it seem similar to my old car that would die if the carburetor wasn't bringing in enough air, but I'm not as familiar with fuel injected engines. Could it be the fuel filter or other engine issue?
So i drive a 2001 F150 4.6L and over the last couple of years it has started pulling down and shaking heavily. I have taken it to mechanics and it always gave a code as a miss. well we replaced the coils and the plugs and of course it still has the problem. finally we did a compression test and it shows that #3 and #5 have no compression and the mechanic said it was either a blown head gasket, a valve or a cracked head. it has 230K miles on it so i was wondering what your thoughts on it were and also if it would be cheaper just to swap the motor.
View 2 RepliesRecently, I got a error code of P0172, that indicate mixture correction (bank 1) rich. Actually, air filter and spark plug have been replaced.
My avante is only 4 years. and 70k mileage. By the way, I found the engine shake heavily when idling.
When using the active cruise control, the acceleration is heavily influenced by the driving mode, with as you could expect eco being more relaxed and power going full steam ahead whenever possible.
View 4 RepliesWhen I drive my car, is fine for the first twenty minutes. After which time, the car drives like the E brake is on. Further, when I'm in city streets, the rpms go really high just to hit 25 mph. When I take my foot off the gas, the car gradually slows to the point where the car stops while in drive. Even if i press the gas, I have to press hard before the car moves. And when it does move, is like the E brake is on because it acts like it doesn't want to move. While traveling, is hard to reach 40 mph without the engine feeling heavily over worked.
View 12 RepliesWhen sitting around in Drive at idle, my 2013 Camry is vibrating VERY noticeably at idle when the A/C is running. Turn the A/C off and idle goes back to normal.
I don't seem to remember this last summer - is this pretty normal for the I4 models? It seems to happen when the engine is at low RPM in gear and goes away if I blip the throttle or put the car into Neutral or Park. Even more shaky in reverse.
I usually run 87 octane, but have tried a tank of 89 and 93 with much the same result, but a little more power from a stop in hot weather. This feels very unusual for a 2013 car - my old 2002 Nissan didn't seem to even notice that the A/C was on.
I am hearing a weird like vibrating noise when the call is in DRIVE during idle like at a red light or stopped position only. Noise goes away when placed in Neutral or Park. The cars gotta be in drive to make the noise... My car is a 1999 Passat V6 AHA engine code by the way, only 20K on it...
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