Prius (2010-12) :: Engine Knocking - EGR Was Clogged
Jan 30, 2015
I took my car for the engine knocking at 34xxx miles to the dealer here in NJ. They mentioned it was the EGR that was clogged, so they replaced it. 2 weeks after that, the same incident happened whenever it wasn't allowed to warm up. This time the dealer diagnosed it with having a hole in piston #1? To make the story short, i received my car 2 days ago with a brand new engine from toyota. I tried to re-create the same issue, and it would not happen. Could this be resolved once and for all.
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Initially thought that this was related to some water in the tank, since it started when the gas dropped to 1 bar (already put some stuff HEET when put the whole tank, did 60miles so far). ODB throws out multiple cylinder misfire (codes 300, 301, 302, 303 etc). It lasts up to 3 seconds. Sometimes the check engine pops up sometimes it doesn't. there was absolutely no problem under load. does it seem like a fairly common problem ? Intake manifold clogged ?
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Sometimes I have to park my car two blocks away in the afternoon, and later in the evening i need to park my car back to the spots in front of my apartment.
EV mode won't be enough to last the two blocks, even at 7 bars. Or sometimes the car won't let me turn on EV mode, even at 7 bars (battery too cold).
So the engine must run if i want to park my car back near my apartment. But the two block distance will not suffice to completely warm up the engine
So the next morning... (20~ Fahrenheit)
My car knocks for a few seconds the next morning the car starts up...
What is the definition of completing the warm up cycle? 120F? My car will turn off the engine after coolant temp reaches 120F (ECO mode).
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So my 2012 plugin was parked for about 3 days, and when I turned it on, heard loud knocking and the check engine light came and stayed on.
When switching the car on or off, I'll hear two taps/ticks that were not there before. Loud knocking is not there now.
What can the issue be? It was very cold and snowing.
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I seem to be having a leak occuring from somewhere within the engine compartment, as I see beads of water dripping into the driver side and passenger side carpets. It only occurs when I turn the fan/A/C on.
This is leading me to believe that the evaporator drain is clogged, the only issue is: Where is it exactly located? I'm looking near the passenger side firewall within the engine compartment for a small black rubber hose, but I can't seem to find it. Is it further down underneath the firewall?
To add insult to injury, the VSA, traction control and check engine light both turned on today. I'm not sure if this is the result of persistent water leaking and causing something to short (I don't really know how water has been leaking for) but what could've caused that?
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Recently I started to hear engine pinging/knocking-like noise when the hybrid battery level becomes low like two bars and the car starts a charge cycle. I also hear it occasionally when I accelerate on uphill. Is this normal or should I take it to a mechanic?
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I'm in having emission problems with my 2010 F250 lariat 6.4 diesel truck my DPF filter keeps getting clogged up engine just shut off on me then I sent it to get cleaned professionally got it installed drive it for 20 miles and my pick up shut off on me and left me stranded and I can't seem to pass inspection...
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My engine keeps knocking for a minute or so after I come to a stop and turn off ignition. Should I be concerned?
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My car has 63 000 km and engine is making loud knocking noise all the time. Dealer took a quick look and he asked head office. Now he wants to run some tests to see which valve is bad. He's hesitating between repairing or replacing the engine. I'm really disappointed of Hyundai quality. I really hope that I get new engine instead of poor repair job.
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2012 elantra ltd.
Today noticed a knockng sound louder than the usual engine knock. It only occurs when we put car in reverse. Checked it with the brakes applied so as to eliminate it coming from any source due to the car moving ie axle/drive connections etc. Putting it in D with brakes on, not moving and it goes away. Put it back in reverse and it recurs.
Tried it even after the engine had warmed to temp guage showing half way. Let car sit for a bit (so engine was still warm) and it repeated. Drove for a few minutes and it would not occur. Shut car off for 1 hour, on restart the engine temp was showing it was still warm and the knock would recur in R.
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I bought a used 2010 GMC Terrain with 28,000 miles on it in April of 2013. Two weeks after I purchased the car I heard a knocking sound and the check engine light came on. Took it to Dealer and they said the car is low on oil. They put in oil. Two weeks later check engine light comes back on. They put it through a test for oil consumption and that they said the car is using an excessive amount of oil. So they had to change out all of the pistons. One month later the check engine light comes back on.
Dealer calls GM and they say to reset computer....... three weeks later check engine light comes back on....... GM now says to dealer it needs a new engine computer. Not an hour after I pick the car up from it lastest stay at the dealer the light comes back on. GM doesn't know what it is. The mechanic at the dealer is awesome he did some research and thinks the problem is the gas. I now need to put in 90 or above so the engine won't knock. Not happy right now I didn't think that I would have to put in a high octane gas when I bought the car. Terrain owners do you have to put in a high octane gas?
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I have a 2010 F150. Everything checks out on the system pressure-wise, except that airflow is reduced. Likely diagnoses is dirty evaporator coil. Is there any way to try to clean this thing without removing the dash? That's a huge project, or a very expensive one if I can't do. Even if it is something that is just worth a try, I will try it.
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When I start my 2012 prius the noise scared me. The motor shook an inch and a half first tow found nothing. It did it again drove it in nothing found could not duplicate. Third time towed and again nothing found. "It is safe to drive we can find nothing wrong". After asking for a manager and inquiring about lemon status I was given a car to drive. The service rep said a manifold would be in in about a month but the mechanic supervisor said there is no eta and we are working on it.
A week later they call the manifold was replaced and they finally duplicated the issue in one of the other three cars there with same complaint. I was getting 50 mpg until this started when I took it in I was getting 46mpg. Now after the first 300 miles since I got it back I'm getting 43.5mpg.
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Long story short, at 77,100 miles, my engine failed yesterday. I bought the car new about 18 months ago, and have used it for work ever since.
After exiting the interstate yesterday, the car started knocking lightly. By the time I got home (about 3-4 miles), it was barely running, and knocking REALLY bad. No check engine lights or anything, and everything was working perfectly until then. I was sent a tow truck under warranty, and it's at the dealer now until Monday when they diagnosis it. This seems ridiculous for a new Hyundai
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2010 RX450h, 63k miles. Noticed a bad smell, we thought it might be spilled milk or something, but now I've found that the carpet is wet. Worst under the front seats, but also the mats and under the mats, front and back. Probably worse on the passenger side.
I've read that this might be due to a clogged a/c drain line. I've noticed, though, that there is definitely water dripping underneath the car...I think from where the drain line would be (the dripping is a bit forward of the glove compartment). The thing is, it is still dripping now some 3 hours after the car was last driven. Specifically, I drove from about 10a-11a, then again from 2:45p-3:45p. Noticed dripping beneath the car, maybe a drop every 1-2 sec, 2.5 hours after the last drive ended. Now more like 3 hours after the last drive, the dripping has slowed. I'm wondering, does the dripping mean that maybe my a/c drain line is fine? Or does is the extended dripping time unusual, maybe indicating a partial clog and water then getting into the car?
If it might be the a/c drain hose, can I access it from the engine compartment, and then how to unclog it? I don't want to jack up the car and go underneath...would rather take it to a dealer than do that.
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The driver-side nozzle on our Avalon is clogged but the passenger works great.
We have tried wires, needles and spray air cans but to no effect.
I want to remove the nozzle from under the hood (it is not on top) but do not want to break it.
How to do that?
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So recently I decided to add some fluid to the windshield washer tank, but when I added some, a clump of slime fell right in. Needless to say I couldn't do much about it. Now I have no fluid running through the system. What could I do to purge the junk out of the system? And where is the pump that drives the system?
I figured out I would have to remove the bumper to get to this part. In theory I could take it up to the dealership ...
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I have been experiencing this problem for sometime now. I notice it especially when the battery shows low and after stopping at a Stop sign. Also when I go uphill.
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Started up our 2010 RX 350 and there was loud knocking. This smoothed out after several seconds. I stopped engine and started it again. This time the knocking was less severe, but now the Check Engine light is on. Engine seems to be running a little rough as well. I have a feeling I have a bad plug or wire maybe.
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I know all Hyundai's 1.8L Nu engines have that quiet ticking noise. But is there a slight knocking sound on the left side of the engine (around the belt area)? Could this be just the timing chain noise? It does this on idle but when on a constant speed/rpm, the engine is quiet.
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I own an Elantra GLS 2012, and starting a week ago, I noticed my windshield washer was coming out through the nozzles with low pressure (1/2 of the windshield). Yesterday one stopped working and the left nozzle is "spitting" (1/3 of the windshield).
I thought they are clogged and today I tried to unclog them using computer air cleaner, but air was coming out through the left nozzle with pressure and nothing through the right nozzle. When I tried to wash my windshield, no pressure on my right nozzle and low pressure on my left nozzle. Same as before.
I plugged off the tube from the hose connector under the hood, and if I pull back the control bar, I have a stream of washer liquid over 3m (10ft) long, but if I put my finger on the hose, I don't have pressure on the windshield washer.
My question is: the nozzles are clogged or the pump is dead?
I know the clogged nozzles are not under warranty, but what about the pump?
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