A demonstration of how the Airlift tool spares you from the hassle of burping the system and attaching a hose to the top air vent on the engine. Done on a 2010 Prius but it applies across the board.
View 4 RepliesI just bought my prius and I don't even have a hundred miles and I noticed the center console gets dirty quick.
View 1 RepliesI've got a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe with the 2.4L engine. Funny thing happened on the highway. Driving along with the cruise on, the engine 'hiccups'. Almost like a quick hesitation or someone lightly tapping the brakes.
Got it home and ran the usual tests. Computer showed no trouble codes. Checked the oil. Checked the air filter. All normal.
Turned the car on and tested it in park. Gave it some gas, and took the engine up to 3k RPMs...after a few seconds, it did the hiccup thing again. I watched the RPMs dropped from 3k to 2.5k, and then rebounded to 3k. We could also hear a slight and single 'knock' each time the RPM's would drop. I noticed the A/C was on, so I turned it off, and the problem went away. Turned the A/C back on, and the problem came back. I did that about 5 times to confirm it, and every time the problem occurred, the A/C had to be on.
Now, of course the car has 61.5k miles, and we're the second owners, so bye bye warranty. The car was in for repairs at the dealership when the head control unit for the A/C had issues. Of course now we ask them if the problem is related to their repair will they cover the costs, and they say the best they can do is ask Hyundai to cut down the expenses (even though the repair was done within the last 10k miles)?!
My guess is the compressor has kicked the bucket. Of course, I'm not sure if maybe it's the idle motor not operating like it should or if the car even HAS an idle motor to work with the RPMs when the A/C is on.
We have a 2010 Prius with ~120k miles and a supposed oil leak; about half a quart for the last 500 miles. Ongoing for some unknown period of time. I haven't seen any oil on the ground for the past week. Furthermore, the engine coolant is very low. The dealer believes the "seepage" is due to head gasket, which would cost $2400 to repair.
This isn't my car (my gen 2 runs great), but it reminds me of my beloved 1996 Subaru which had to be let go because of an expensive head gasket and emissions failure. We expected the Toyota engine to last much longer. So far, the Prius hasn't thrown any check engine lights. Is this unusual? Any signs I can look for that might confirm the head gasket leak or suggest a less expensive diagnosis?
I'm sure it's been asked before but why even show the gas level and claim those miles in the range. Also is there any way to tow this thing and while I'm here is there any way to use a floor jack on these.
View 19 RepliesAs a Prius driver, I have driven my 2012 Prius more than 110,000 miles. I love the car and have a suggestion on improvement - Create new software to allow the driver to monitor engine coolant temperature and RPM from either the dash display or touch screen display.
I like knowing if my car engine is up to temperature before punching it on the freeway ramp or about to overheat before an idiot light goes on.
Gas mile indicator was showing 54 miles when we went to fill up the gas. Gas indicator is at 1/2 full, but indicator is still showing 54 miles to empty tank.
View 5 RepliesAbout 3 weeks ago I bought 2014 Prius Two. Was purchased as A Certified Pre Owned. At first I thought I just got a bad pump at the gas station. It's now been 5 fill ups at three different stations and same problem every time.
The fuel pump clicks almost instantly when trying to fill. I've tried different angles and manage to get a few gallons in before it prematurely clicks. I've resorted to holding the pump at the minimum flow to to get a consistent flow until fill up.
Car is under warranty so will probably just take it to the dealer. If it something quick and easy fix I'd rather just do it myself over the weekend.. I've ran the gas low most fill ups and topped off.
Had my C4 now for 3 weeks. About a week ago filled it up for the first time. Three days later the CEL came on so took it to the dealer (checked gas cap first and it seemed fine). Dealer told me that the code indicated that I gassed up with the engine on. This is my first car with push button start. I pushed it once, car said "see you" and I filled up. Am I not turning it completely off? Is there something more I should be doing?
View 1 RepliesI took my car to the car wash and they seemed to take longer to vacuum/wash it and while driving it away, I noticed something was off. It seems like the engine is louder than normal. Before when starting the car, it would take 30 seconds to a minute before the battery/engine would come on. Then while accelerating to about 25-35 mph, then the engine would come into gear. When going on the freeway, if accelerating at a quick speed it would sound really loud. Now, it seems like instead of silent, quiet, a little louder, louder and loudest - it's moved to the next level. When starting the car, the engine starts right away and when driving away (at less than 25 mph), the engine sound like I am on the freeway and when I'm on the freeway it sound like I'm trying to gun the engine. I don't know what it could be.
View 1 Replies I have a 2001 Prius with about 175K miles on it. I was headed to the beach this past Tuesday and had an oil change done right before I left. The trip here from NC to Myrtle Beach was about 200 miles. On the way back today, after I stopped to fill up on gas the 'check engine' light came on for the rest of the trip back home. I went tonight to Autozone and got back all the codes that are P0420, P0300, P0301, P0304, P0440 ....
My question is...Is it possible that all of those codes are somehow the result of my recent oil change? (Oil overflow?, etc.) I've been doing some searching in the archives for those codes and oil/fluid changes appear to be a possibility with all of them.
Just a little background, I've already had the hybrid battery replaced in this car a little more than a year ago. I've had no more warning lights come on since that time until today.
I just replaced my radiator in my vr6 jetta. I've replaced my coolant before, with this same problem,but it never affected anything and did not find any answers. But here's the deal. It filled with about 2 gallons of mixed coolant. No noticeable air bubble sounds, coolant flows back into the reservoir. I opened my top rad hose and poured coolant in also. It is not overheating. My heater is also hot, no problems there. It just seems suspicious that my car takes so little coolant, and runs just fine. I also flushed the system with my garden hose, and let all the water drain out.
View 3 RepliesMy year-old Camry hybrid stalled out last night. It was the second time this has happened. The first time, about a month ago, I made a quick start from a light, followed by a quick stop, both actions to avoid an accident. (I was about to get rear-ended and scooted into the intersection to give the guy closing in my mirror more room.) After the stop, the car had no power but it started up, no problem. Last night, I was about a minute into my trip, stopped at a light, and the power just died. Again, it started no problem.
This time I noticed that the radio went out. Not sure about the headlights. The emergency blinkers came on at the touch of the button before I restarted. In both cases, I stepped on the accelerator and got no power. Took it to the dealer and they couldn't replicate the problem, of course, and whatever interrogation they did of the systems found no faults. They had to be convinced that I knew the difference between an actual stall and just going from gas to electric. It's kind of disconcerting to just stall out in the middle of the street. And I'm concerned that this is a problem that could get worse -- probably just after the warranty lapses.
I have a 2013 GTI manual 6 speed with 18K very gently driven miles. Yesterday I noticed coolant on the garage floor and checked the reservoir which was below the fill line.
Went to dealer this morning .....bad water pump. I asked if this was unusual for such a new car with low miles and service writer said yes. After googling water pump failures of GTi's I learned this was not the case.
I am a proud owner of a 2012 Elantra GLS(auto 1.8) and i like to use the sport mode "Shiftronic" all the time. When I started using it, i noticed a nice quick woosh sound almost like a mini turbo, only when i shift at 5500 to 6000 rpm. it sounds like air pressure releasing when i shift at high rpms.
obviously, i do not have a turbocharged engine, but its a pretty loud sound, people can hear it outside of my car if within 15 feet. I have noticed this for the past year and a half but never found out what it was. I will say that I have added a short ram intake into the car, but I have heard this sound way before I put the intake in. There was no change of sound when I added the intake, so it is not intake related. And I know what intake sound is. note it only happens when shifting at high rpms, with my foot still on the gas pedal. it gets louder with higher rpms. it sounds like compressed air being released. Like air is building with rpm, then releasing at shifts. Im not mechanically inclined but I believe that is what it is.
What exactly is causing the sound(what parts) and if it could be stressing my car if done too often?
Start the car, turn to steering wheel 30 degree to the left and quicky turn the steering to the right, i can hear some knocking sound from steering wheel or steering column, when I drive on bumpy roads, i can hear the rattle sound from steering wheel or column.
View 2 RepliesAt the airport made a wrong entrance and notice it so fast, therefore, did a quick reverse and shifted back to drive, but the car died on me. It took me a little while to see what is happening and start the engine again, but the cars behind me were not real cooperative.
View 1 RepliesWith a cold engine in my 2010 Forester (29,000 miles), the coolant level has dropped from "full" to "low" in the overflow reservoir over the last 8 months or so. The level was down at that time (8 mos. back) and I topped it off. There is no obvious coolant puddle on the driveway. There is a gurgling sound at tailpipes and the exhaust is very wet. I'm worried there is a cooling system leak into the engine. Overall I have not been happy with the service dept. at my dealer (bought the car used from him) and wondering if this is the type of diagnosis and repair that an independent shop could handle.
View 17 RepliesWhen I drive over quick choppy bumps in pavement I get a rattle in the rear of the suspension, but only when the bump is on one side. When the bump is long and activates both rear wheels, like a speed bump or a large road crack I don't get the rattle.
The sound seems to be worse on the right side and I can't really figure it out. Anything specific I should look out for?
My 2010 with 130,000 miles has no heat. I had it flushed at the dealer and recall work done last June as part of the maintenance sched and did not try to use the heat until a few weeks ago. I have taken it to the dealer twice. They have in order bled the coolant system, replaced the coolant and then changed the thermostat at the second visit. The catch is that each time they have done this the heat returns and by the next day or so the heat is gone--It has not been very cold yet so we have not needed to use the heat every day. I am wondering if the system is hard to bleed?
View 19 RepliesMy 2011 is at 45k miles now and I've just noticed that my radiator coolant is just under the 'low' mark and my inverter coolant is on the 'low' line. I've had all regular maintenance done, never done any of it myself just because I'm not confident enough in myself to think I won't mess something up. Should I be concerned about having 'low' coolant levels?
View 19 Replies