Prius (2010-12) :: EV Won't Engage Even If Big Battery Is Full - Gas Engine Is Warmed Up
Dec 23, 2015
We use the EV mode when going home for last quarter mile because its mostly downhill so for fun have the electric motor tow us home. What is "quirky" about this mode is sometimes EV won't engage even if big battery is full, gas engine is warmed up.
We know that going faster than 25mph cancels the EV and that short trips prevent EV from engaging. Other times EV just cancel citing excessive speed when we are going 10-15mph. So this is no problem but wondered what the parameters are for EV engaging and dis-engaging.
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I got prius i-tech Australia (should be IV or V in US). I just noticed this morning that my fuel economy is better when I got 6-7 bars on battery level, and worsen if i only got 2-4 bars. Is it just my imagination or any explanation for it?
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I just got my dream car, love it, but have two questions:
1. My battery icon is never totally full. Does that last bar ever show up? I doubt it's an issue, but figure if the charge is low now....
2. I've filled four times, and each time the computer shows mileage about 5% better than the actual purchase of gas calculates out. So I'm wondering if the calculation is a little high, of if my gas station is "a little off." I plan to use a few gas stations and compare the results.
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I still have my 2004 Prius which currently has 264,xxx miles. The car runs very well (at least I think it does). I have always maintained it beyond what was required. Anyway, it has been very, very hot lately in south Florida (high 90's plus 50% humidity) so I do not know if that has anything to do with my problem. I have noticed that after I have driven the car for a while the engine periodically turns itself on when I am at a stoplight even though the battery shows practically full (full blue). The engine will continue to stay on until I resume driving. I have the AC on full blast as it is needed to keep the cabin cool. Otherwise, the car seems to be performing satisfactorily.
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My turtle light is on and even though my battery shoes full, the engine won't turn off.
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I have posted separately about my 'supposed' dead HV dead battery. The charge was down to one bar and the the system didn't allow ICE to start for recharge. I finally got a reading of a about 207 volts today and when I fiddled with the start button on and off a few time today, the ICE started. After about 15 sec.
It indicated it was pumping juice into the battery. When it finally got up to about 4 bars it turned off. I had to move the car off the tow dolly (it's home for the past week) and did so in electric mode even though there was a Ready on the display the engine never came on. Before maneuvering it around much I tried to get the ICE to start again to recharge the battery, now down to 2 bars.
By pressing the gas in park and neutral, it would start and rev up but never generated any power to the battery. Fiddled around with the power button some on/off/on, etc. until I got the ready light and sometimes it would start charging but only once did it charge to 6 bars and usually stopped as soon as there were 4 bars.
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Been having a problem starting the car (2010 T Spirit - 25k mileage RSH) in the mornings for about 3 weeks. When you power on, the dashboard lights up most options and the power light goes amber with no engine start.
This can take 5 or 6 attempts before getting the engine to start and then half the dashboard like the clock etc will not light up for that journey. Subsequent journeys that day are ok but the issue returns for the first start every day.
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My 2012 Prius v has a traction battery gauge beside the fuel gauge. The gauge has never shown that the battery is full. It appears as if the indicator is 2 bars below full at all times. Is this by design or should the gauge look full with bars to the very top after charging on a long trip?
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Why the battery indicator on my v is never full? It's always one bar less...
How is everyone's battery indicator, have you ever get it to fully charged?
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I've had my C a week and a half and it is doing great, but I wonder if the system is ok. It has never shown the battery at 100%. My Civic would charge all the way quite often.
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I notice that if I use AC, the battery drains a lot faster. If i do not use AC, I see my battery stays at one bar from full on flat freeways or local streets.
If I use AC, I see the battery goes down quickly to 2 bar from full just on local streets.
So AC drains the battery quite a bit. Does ppl use their AC all the time or not?
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I never see my battery full or empty. Why? There are always 1 or 2 levels missing or left, and it can't go any further.
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About 20 minutes ago I started up the car and the screen indicated the main battery was pretty much empty. And hour before I had pulled into my driveway and the battery had indicated maybe 70%+. The car was off, nothing like headlights or anything I know of was left on.
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Why the battery never charges to full capacity in the battery level indicator on the LCD screen? It never goes over 6 bars out of the 8 bars so it only gets to be 3/4 full.
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My wife plugged in to the EV charging station at work for the first time today. She was supposed to receive an email when the charge finished but wasn't notified because there was a still a trickle charge being registered by the EV station even though the battery was full.
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Here's whats going on. Battery goes from full charge to dead and back very fast. Assuming its a battery issue I removed the battery and volt metered every cell
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So our car has performed flawlessly since 2005/135K miles. Still getting 55 mpg in the display in the summer, 45 mpg in the winter. Only issue is traction battery SOC quickly goes to full green when coasting downhill, and 1 or 2 purple bars when climbing. In Colorado, this happens a lot. Within a mile or so coasting downhill the SOC is full green. Question is: should I replace the traction battery? Is there any harm to continuing to experience this behavior? When full green, I realize I am using friction braking over regen braking, have actually felt the crossover from regen to the pads, as the SOC goes full green.
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My Prius' battery died this week after a respectable 163731 miles. I barely got it to the dealership . It was sluggish, engine racing, one purple bar and the battery fan was going full blast. It totally freaked me out.
21 working days for battery from Japan. I've been expecting it. I figure I can then drive the car for another couple of years.
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Hard to put it all in a title. I have 149K miles on our 2009. The warranty expires in 1000 miles. I've noticed recently that I can no longer engage the ev mode with the ev mod. I always get a "cannot change into eve mode" message on the MFD. It used to be that I could do it before the engine started or after all warm up cycles were complete.
Now, when first powering on, ev mode won't engage before engine start and there is no MFD message. After warm up is complete, the message appears on the MFD whenever I try to change to EV mode.
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Replaced original clutch on Subaru Forester at approx. 130,000 miles because of slipping. Drove car for a few days and clutch would judder once warmed-up when trying to engage 1st gear. Took car back to repair shop, they said pressure plate was defective/set too stiff and replaced that. Whole car now shudders when trying to engage in 1st gear once the car has warmed-up and particularly on (even a slight) hill. What's not working correctly? Seen some discussion on throw-out bearings, master/slave cylinders and oil on clutch. Unsure.
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up. Coolant temperature was high (160 F). Car was in low speed (5-10 mph because of traffic). Battery level was high (67.8% 7 pips).
But gas engine was still running non-stop.
Checked battery temperature. It was 28 F.
Switched from recirculating to fresh air mode. The battery temp raised from 28 F to around above 32 F rather quickly. Then the gas engine stopped and car started to run on full EV mode.
Did not know the fresh air mode will have such a prominent effect on battery temp...
Will use more fresh air mode in summer when the AC is blasting.
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