Prius (2010-12) :: Driver Side Parking Light Connector Won't Lock In
Feb 10, 2013
I replaced my standard parking lights with LEDs. The passenger side was a snap and super easy took all of a minute. The driver's side wasn't so. It was easy to get out and replaced the bulb with the same type as the passenger, however I can't get the bloody thing to lock in the hole.
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Late last night as I was puling up to park in front of a dark restaurant, I turned off my headlights so I would not blind the people inside. This is a 2010 Prius III.
When I left and tried to turn them back on, only the drivers side parking light (the small white one above the headlight) and side marker light worked. Passenger side nothing works, however on both sides the high beams do work.
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I can't seem to lock my driver's side door via my key fob anymore. It locks all the other doors. When I press the lock button, I can hear the other doors lock and no beeping sound. There is a light blinking on my dash according to the manual the accessory mode light is blinking. I How do I shut it off? I've turned the car on by pressing the power button and pressing the brake then shut if off normally by pressing the power button.
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I bought my Prius in November 2010. I replaced my headlights about three months ago when the right one went out. It went out again a few days ago. Then suddenly the diver side went out 2 days later. I also noticed that the right side parking light is out. The only lights that work are the high beams. I did check the fuses.
iPad ? HD ?
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My Toyota 2010 Yaris (5 door) has a electronic key locking issue. when locking the car with the smart key you will hear the mechanisms for all the doors locking then straight away the locking sound of the drivers door will go off again. all the doors will be locked except the drivers door. the drivers door still locks manually using the key but will not lock electronically. just want to know if there is a simply answer to this or something more sinister.
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I have a problem with my driver side rear door's child safety lock. The safety lock is STUCK/BROKEN on the lock position and i cant get it back to normal... The door could only be opened from the outside right now at all times.
I took the door panel off too see if i could do anything to make it unstuck but very unfortunate...
The safety lock is a whole module itself. I bought it to my mechanic he checked it out and said it cannot be fixed and has to be replaced and he quote/estimated me just the part alone is roughly $300?
How much the part would cost in Sewell? I tried looking it up but cant locate it
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I just noticed the other night that it seems like the door lock switches on the driver side near the power window switch does not illuminate in the dark....is this just my car or are they all like that?
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My driver side rear door won't lock any way that I try to lock it. I have tried to lock it by using the lock/unlock contol button that locks or unlocks all of the doors at one time on the inside of the drivers door and it won't lock. I have tried to lock it by pushing the rubber button on the outside of the drivers door and it won't lock.
I am unable to move the lock button next to door handle in the inside of the door on the rear drivers side door. Which led me to check the child lock lever that one can see when they open the door. Moving child lock lever doesn't do anything either way it is set to change the problem. Also I am able to open the door from the outside or the inside.
All other doors lock and unlock properly. My question is when there is an actuator motor problem does that make it so that one is unable to move the lock/unlock button on the inside of that door?
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All other doors lock and unlock except drivers door. The drivers door can only be locked unlocked manually with your hand.
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I recently got a used 2007 prius as my first car; Unfortunately today the drivers side lock has stopped working. when trying to use the smart unlock, the Prius would beep many times, and the drivers door would not unlock (or lock for that matter). After getting into the car (with the mini key) I noticed that the inner lock button does not lock or unlock that door either.
All other doors function normally. The lock can be manually operated, so it's probably not mechanical.
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I have a 2008 prius and I realized today that the driver side rear door will not lock. All the other doors lock except the rear driver side door. I tried locking it using the remote, but it didn't lock. I tried locking it with the lock button in the car by the driver which didn't work. When i try to push the lever by the door handle, it doesn't move.
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I have a 2007 Prius and recently both my driver side front door and driver side rear door lock actuator failed. I browsed and found part number to replace the driver side front door lock assembly. I wasn't very confident in my ability to replace the assembly, but I decided to give it a shot, so I ordered the part. The part arrived today and my wife and I just finished successfully replacing the assembly. It was a little challenging, but now that we know how to do it we could probably do it again in half the time.
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I have installed Precision premium LED parking lights (which are the little bulbs right above the headlights) in the place of the standard bulbs which from the factory are 194's. The LED lights occasionally turn off individually or sometimes just one side will go out, but if I turn my lights off and on again they both come back on. Why this is happening or any solutions to fix it? Is it the Bulbs or what because I thought LED draws less power than a standard bulb?
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I recently bought a used '06 Camry V6.
After driving it for several days, the red airbag light went on on the instrument panel. Certainly, I do not want to go to the dealer, not only because of costs, but also cause of the distance of the dealership from my home.
I did a bit of a research and so far have tried disconnecting the ground wire on the batter for half an hour, in order to reset the computer. Although, as soon as I plugged in the wire back and turned the car on, the light did not disappear.
After looking online, I found a similar problem and a solution regarding Toyota Sienna in this link: [URL] ....
-Following the advise, I remember that right before the light went on, I have tried to reach for the plastic water bottle that ended up deep under the driver's seat.
Is it possible that the airbag problem stems from the loose connector under the driver's seat? If yes, how should I approach this.
Also I recently had my intermediate steering shaft replaced [URL] .... Are there chances that such replacement caused the airbag to fail. This manual does not tell any steps to disconnect any yellow wires (or wires at all).
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My car's driver's side tire looks almost flat as one of my co-workers indicated first but the tire pressure light is NOT on. Should I worry about it and get it checked out?
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I've had HyperWhite bulbs on previous cars and they're great. Much whiter than the "yellow" factory bulbs.
What would be a close color match to my LED parking light which looks sort of bluish? The new parking light LEDs are 6000K color temperature.
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2004 Prius. When the brakes are applied, the passenger side brake light (LEDs) is dim compared to the driver side. Are the LEDs just dying a slow death? I always thought LEDs either work or don't.
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I let a friend drive my car for the first time today. Before today I always had a key with a slash through it that blinked until I started the car. Now that has disappeared and the hybrid lock indicator light is on instead. My friend left the car on, by mistake, while she went into the store. She tried repeatedly to lock it, and of course it wouldn't. Did this change something in my indicator lights?
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How to remove this type of connector from the brake light switch? I've tried just about everything at this point. Sheer force alone doesn't work. There has to be some type of release mechanism I'm not seeing that allows it to disconnect.
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2014 RX 350
Had a fog light go out driver side. At the time not knowing better and the auto parts store saying th H16 bulb crosses to a H11. I replaced both with H11 they ran for a little bit ( don't know ,I tested they worked, so I went for a drive come back 30 min later not working).
Replaced those with new H16 bulbs but now they do not work. Tested bulbs individually, and they are fine. Fog light indicator comes on on panel, but they do not work.
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We purchased a used 2012 a couple of months ago and have had no issues with it. A few weeks ago it was in an accident and mostly sat at the body shop for the next two weeks. Got it back a week ago and seemed to work fine for commuting for the next week. Then let it sit for two days and then the next day drove it for a few short trips over a couple of hours. Everything seemed fine. Next morning it won't start. "P lock malfunction when parking, park in flat place and apply parking brake securely. Shift to P position and push power switch to turn off". Cannot shift into D; can shift into N; pushing P button doesn't illuminate the LED on the button or move it out of N.
Searching this error indicates often caused by failing 12V battery, and I can see that might be the problem given the age and the abuse the battery has taken the last few weeks. The battery reads 11.84V when car is off and 11.45V when "on" showing the error. I can replace the 12V battery. Is there some other simple diagnostic I can do?
Alternate explanations are, something got buggered in the accident that didn't surface until now or the groundhog we shooed out from under the car right before it wouldn't start was chewing on something.
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