2010 gen III bought Aug 2009.
Would it be possible to disable HV battery charging or regeneration (with torque pro regen coop)? This way I could use battery and ICE power when going up a long mountainous area, and end up with 30% charge at the top instead of 60%. Then on the way down I could use regen to build back up the battery.
My dad's Gen III has been sitting garaged for almost a year now, and of course the 12 volt battery is dead. Firstly, it's sitting in a one car garage, and secondly I have a Gen II so a straight jump isn't possible. I have a trickle charger that should be able to bring the 12 volt back up in 15-19 hours, but here's my question:
Maybe I'm being lazy, but I'd rather not deal with climbing in the back to release the hatch and running an extension cord so I can get the charger close enough to hook straight up to the battery..
Yesterday I was stuck in traffic and the battery eventually went down to 2 bars and the engine came on.
My question is: In stop and go traffic, if I stay in the first half (left part) of the HSI while the engine is on to recharge the battery, is the ICE turning the wheels or just charging the battery?
My 12 volt battery is flat. I attached my CTEK MXS 5.0 and started on the Normal setting. I figured (wrongly it seems) that having the battery charger attached would support in starting the car. The green light displayed when I depressed the brake pedal and I pressed the Start button, but everything went dim and the brake pump slowly wound into life. The Start button glowed was on but no other functions started.
I pressed Start again and the light went out. Now when I connect the battery charger, a whining noise starts from near the inverter. The speed varies; dropping from a peak and rising again, and there's probably a pattern to it.
I've disconnected the charger a few times and the noise stops immediately. I wonder if the car has not switched itself off. I've disconnected the charger and I'm waiting some period of time before connecting it again to see if something will fall asleep. If not, I'll just have to climb over the back and disconnect the battery from the car before I charge it.
How I can charge my hybrid battery while driving on city streets with an average speed of 35-45MPH. Once I get off the highway, the hybrid battery is almost full, only missing two "bricks" or "Bars." I will then accelerate very slowly only using the electric motor to drive the vehicle for the next couple of miles.
Once the battery has depleted to where it only has two bars, I will then accelerate a little faster to run the engine so it can charge the battery. But, I bring up the energy monitor and then watch the arrows.. making sure that arrows are coming out of then engine to drive the vehicle AND making sure that the electric motor is not supporting the engine.
Curiosity question. I've noticed that on a downhill of a couple miles, especially in "braking" mode or with the cruise control on, the motor/generator and engine are used to keep the speed down and the battery gets charged to the very top quite quickly. That's good!
On a really long downhill, will the motor/generator still be used for braking and the excess electricity discarded to keep from overcharging the battery?
I just got a 2004, it did have a bad 12V battery which I did replace, still not charging.But First it is making a loud noise under the hood sounds like towards the right side.when I accelerate starts at 18 to 20 miles per hour. Tried sitting still with car in gear and pushing accelerator can not get it to make the noise that way, without the wheels rotating.
View 17 RepliesI don't own a Prius, but my parents own two identical 2002 models (each with 120k miles).
My mother's car wasn't driven for nearly a month (hip replacement), and when they tried to start it last week, the ready light would blink 3 times - but no cranking.
After taking it to the dealer, they were quoted $4600 to replace the traction battery and ECU. We did the mandatory research on rebuilt batteries, but with only a vague diagnosis from the dealer, we were not convinced that this was the (only) problem.
So, my brother and I decided to swap the ECU, then the battery from my father's working Prius to my mother's - thereby proving the issue. Upon removing the 'dead' battery from mother's car, I decided to open the module, and check each battery. We measured anywhere from 3.0 to 6.4V on the individual cells - and 7.0V to 11V on the paired cells. It was clear that the batteries had discharged unevenly. The total charge remaining was about 151V - still above the 40% SOC minimum I'd read about.
We then bought 5 x 10A chargers from Walmart, and connected each to a pair of modules. Set the charge to rapid (10A) and waited 30 minutes (or until the charger indicated full). After 2 hours, all 19 pair were charged fully - with each reporting 15.7V +/- 0.5V. The total power was about 295V.
We reassembled the battery, re-installed it, and the car started immediately. We let it sit running, until it cycled off on its own. About 5 min later, the ICE fired again to charge the 12V battery - but it threw a P3006 error code. It showed a PS + MAIN + battery icon on the MFD. Using an OBDII scan tool, we cleared the error, and drove the car for a few miles. The error code did not return during that drive - but did one more time after letting it cycle off/on automatically. After clearing the code a second time, it never repeated again.
My assumption is that the 300V HV charge was above the 80% SOC and it didn't like that. But after a few cranking cycles, and the tendency for the battery to discharge back to it's rated output, the error no longer repeated.
Is there anyway to charge a couple of batt cells by running the car.
Just replaced 2 packs and there voltage is 2-3 volts lower than the rest of the batt packs? the ones replaced are at 14.5 to 15 where the others are at 17-18 volts.
Have a 2009 with 25K on it, purchased in April when they were practically giving them away. Recently did an oil change and got snow tires, then left my husband in car with heat on for 20+ minutes, and now mileage is in the 30's and the battery isn't charging itself or regenerating. What could be going on?
View 6 RepliesI have got Prius 2004. I have got a problem. With MFD. It's showing the screen where it should show that the battery is charging but it's not showing the charging at all. Car is running fine and starts as normal. I have changed the 12V battery but it's still not showing the charging.
View 6 RepliesRight now my husband and I are driving from San Luis Obispo Ca to LA and back in a day. We noticed right before the grape vine on the I5 that the engine was really working, even on flat ground. Looked at the battery and it was purple. We have been driving for about 2 hours averaging about 70mph on mostly flat land. The battery finally charged itself on the big downhill of the grapevine (I5) but we're noticing we're running right through it again unless we start to break more. So, it's not getting any recharge during driving, just breaking. Can it be the generator? What causes this?
View 5 RepliesRecently we went on trip requiring a 3 hour ferry ride. Decided to keep it in READY to listen to the stereo and maintain a minimal level of heat. I noticed the engine kicking on and no arrows from or to anywhere. The HV battery gauge was mostly down to 2-3 bars but still no arrows. There were times that it kicked on and the arrows showed the batteries being charged too. Was the engine kicking on without charging just to maintain the engine coolant temp to provide heat for the cabin, or what?
View 4 RepliesMeant to post this for a while but on both the Prii C's I have owned, I mostly only see the arrow on the HSI going towards the battery and not the other way to assist the engine. My wife watched it while I drove the last 2 days and it never went to the engine except when driving in EV.
On my regular size Prius I had, I saw it going to the engine way more than the C,
Did use cruise control to maximize battery changing when coasting to a red light or slowing down for a speed zone? Just keep in mind your vehicle will slow down fairly rapidly with no brake lights- so I tend to to do this during those glorious moments when there are no cars behind mine. When you see an approaching red light (with cruise control on) just hold the cruise control switch down and the vehicle will automatically power the generators to max. In this way you will not lose any potential battery charge to the actual brake pads. Be advised also the generators will stop and the cruise will cancel automatically at 22mph which is usually slow enough to avoid engaging the brake pads until you are pretty much stopped. Just thought I would share a neat trick with fellow hypermillers. **Also note this may be a less effective charging method than long drawn out braking but is most effective for rapid slowdown situations like unanticipated red lights, speed zones or expressway off ramps ect. and requires some skill to do safely.
View 3 RepliesI was wondering how I would charge my gen 1 battery cells and balance them with my IMAX b6 lipro battery charger. Every time I try to charge it or hook it up the thing keeps saying "input vol error". Now I don't know if that means I need a different ac adapter since I'm now using a 19.5 v laptop charger and most of the time they use a 12v ac adapter.
Most of the cells have a reading under 6v but we have 38 new cells coming in today. How we can balance them with this charger because I know it has a balance charge setting for the lithium batteries. That has a separate plug though. Should we just put the cells closest to their voltages and have them balanced that way?
My 01 Prius is not charging the 12V battery and I have error code P3001. Everyone on here said P3001 is the HV battery ECU. (which I replaced with one from the Junk Yard and still get the error code)
I charged the 12V battery over night and Autozone says that its ok. They tested it with a little machine. The only other thing I can think of is that the Inverter DC-DC converter part is bad. How I can test that? (is there a way other than replace the inverter?)
I have an 05 prius with 108k miles that I bought about 3 months ago. I had noticed some times during phase 1 warm up where prius is in park and ice is charging the battery there will be mildly violent jerking of the car.
I was messing around the other morning, after driving the car about 30 minutes then letting it sit for about an hour in 40 degree f weather. I readied the car and it started charging the battery. While still in park i pressed the gas pedal to see what would happen. The mfd showed no arrows which I assume is normal. But when I let off the gas pedal there was a abrupt jerking as the mfd showed power flowing from the ice to the battery again.
Experienced jerkiness while in phase 1? After phase 1 is complete I do not notice any more of this behavior.
First a little background on the car , it has 217,000 miles. The battery was just replaced with a used one. While taking it through the carwash, she put it in neutral and a minute or two later she got a warning that the battery was not charging and to put it in gear. Sounds like the battery is having issues to me. She has a 60-day warranty.
View 10 RepliesI just bought a 2012 Prius c. There are oftentimes when I don't drive my car for a few days. When this happens, I have heard that the car might not start, especially in the winter. Is this true?
View 7 RepliesMy wife plugged in to the EV charging station at work for the first time today. She was supposed to receive an email when the charge finished but wasn't notified because there was a still a trickle charge being registered by the EV station even though the battery was full.
View 13 Replies