Prius (2010-12) :: Continuous Alarm When Trying To Select D / R / B?
Sep 18, 2013
I have the 2010 Prius with 23K on the dial and over the past few days when going to use the vehicle, at the time of applying the brake pedal and pressing start, all fine, then when we attempt to move the shift leaver to D or R we are greeted with a continuous audible alarm and the display, is telling us to shift to Park with a few other words for Parking the vehicle. No other warning lights occur but we found out the car will drive or reverse with the continuous alarm and message displayed for selecting P.
Okay, put techstream on and I have no trouble codes, at all in fact which is a good thing and I can also hear the car working as normal with P engagement, neutral etc. So the only way to correct the alarm is to turn it off and try again. Any try many times indeed! So its happened to the wife and now myself. Eventually for some reason all back to normal. I've also tried variations of brake pedal application and trying to move vehicle thinking P pin locking problem but it appears to be a signal malfunction or something simple.
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Why the continuous beeping in reverse? Wouldn't one beep suffice? My suggestion to the engineers would be...If you must have the car do something extra electronically while backing-up, have it mute the radio speakers. My guess is that more accidents would be prevented by the forced silence, than by the distracting beeping.
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If you are tired of that irritating continuous beep while in reverse, I can take care of that for you. I can customize your Gen 3 (2010-2015) prius to only beep once while you put your car in reverse. Process takes about 5 min and can be done anywhere. If you are around the Vacaville, Fairfield California area, we can meet up and I can customize your prius for you. Hit me up if interested.
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If I transport my bicycle in the trunk of my 2014 ES350 with the lid tied down but not closed the alarm sounds continuously. Can I defeat the door open alarm for the trunk lid?
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A couple months ago I bought a 2010 with the basic trim package. How to change the Beeping in reverse from continuous to "one beep". The owner's manual says that you have to take it to the dealer.
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I experienced the sudden onset of brake failure when driving home from work . The ABS light came on and stayed on and a loud continuous beeping alarm started sounding, and my brakes became non functional. I was fortunately able to bring my car to a halt without injury to self/ car or others. My 2010 4runner has approx. 83000 miles on it, and a local Toyota Dealership has told me that the ABS sensor needs replacement, along with the rear discs, calipers and brakes, seemingly from a simultaneous failure that the service advisor does not report having seen before.
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Went to start the car up this morning - foot on brake and pressed the Power button. The car went through its checks but when it finished the 'Welcome to Prius' graphic it did a continuous beeep and displayed 'Check Hybrid System' and didn't start.
I turned it off and tried again and on the third or fourth attempt the car eventually fired up, the error message was gone and there were no warning lights on the dash. The car did smell like it was running rich though.
I turned it off and called the dealers. They said if no warning lights are now on it should be ok to drive the 6 miles to see them and they'll check it on their computer. As I drove to see them the car was running OK but the fuel economy was shocking. I was getting about 40 mpg UK (30 US mpg) as a trip average.
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Is there any way to just use just the battery to move my Prius? Every time I want to move my car the engine starts, even when the meter is all green.
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After buying my Prius III, the dealer installed a Karr alarm system which has a blue LED light underneath the steering wheel which blinks when it's armed and, if the alarm goes off, blinks once to three times to tell you what set off the alarm.
Tonight I was at dinner and afterward entered my car using the SKS. When I started driving the car I noticed that the LED was blinking making me think my alarm had gone off. After the alarm was first installed, the installer showed me how to reset the LED by holding or clicking the button behind it (I didn't remember how exactly) so I tried pushing and holding the button but nothing worked and it kept blinking.
I continued to drive home and all of a sudden my alarm started going off while I was driving. I pulled over, turned off the engine, and with the key fob locked and unlocked the car. I started driving again and would hear intermittent honks before the alarm went off again for 20 seconds before it stopped on its own.
Finally when I got home I again turned off the engine, locked and unlocked the car, and the blinking LED finally went away. As I was walking around the car inspecting it to see if it had been hit to start all of this in the first place, the car beeped and locked itself automatically as if I held the door handle for the SKS or pushed the lock button on the key fob. I unlocked the car, tried to recreate it, and everything went back to normal.
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I have the Directed SmartStart / Viper car alarm in my car and a few times in my life it has alerted me that my car battery was low... When I checked the car it was fine.. it did it again today and when I checked it, the battery is dead... I can't even start the car...
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How can I eliminate the reverse beeping alarm if possible?
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Twice this week I have received the Yellow Triangle alarm with the message Key Battery Low. This is the first time I have seen this alarm since I bought the car in August 2009.
I changed the battery the first time after 3 years based on recommendations from the forum. This time the batteries lasted just over 2 years.
I tested the batteries on both Key Fobs and they were both in the 2.9V range. The new batteries tested at 3.3V which is their rating. So ~2.9V must be the low alarm setpoint.
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Just had new tire installed and now noticing that the original stem cap was not used. Alarm is not lit, but wondering if I should try to retrieve the original one, since we notified the tire shop that afternoon......or purchase a new one.
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2010 Toyota Corolla 59 k kilometers ... I recently bought this car pre-owned by the dealership. I am having it inspected again next week on the Monday.
The car makes a continuous squeaky noise like metal rubbing together when the clutch pedal is not being pressed. The sound stops when pressing the clutch pedal. I opened the hood of my car while the engine was running and found that the part responsible for the noise, but I do not know what this is and wanted to be a little more educated before putting money down on a problem that i can't understand. The sound is heavier when the car speeds up or on high revs. It seems the piece in the picture is rattling.
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Normally when I lock my '14 'v' I touch the sensor on the drivers door handle and I hear the beep and the doors lock. Today I had one instance when I touched the sensor (bare handed) and the doors didn't lock and I got a continuous beep until I opened the door.
Checked and everything looked OK. All the doors were closed, etc. Tried it 2 or 3 times and the same thing happened. I finally gave up and locked it with the fob, which worked fine. The next time I went to lock it, several hours later, it worked fine.
I couldn't find anything in the manual that would indicate why I got this continuous beep and no door lock. Why it did this?
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I confirmed that my trial subscription to XM satellite is active, but I get no reception. The antenna light on the dash keeps blinking. AM/FM reception is fine.
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My wife's 2006 Prius is having some problems. The car has 187,000 miles on it. When the engine starts it makes a continuous whirling or humming sound. WHen I try to drive it has minimal power and can not be driven above 15-20 mph on my street. I bought an inexpensive Actron code reader and got the following codes. P0A92 P0300 P0303 P0304 P3191. Does it sound like a definite transmission problem and those other codes are caused by the transmission problem.
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Just purchased a 1999 4.0L 4WD, when I select 4WD Hi or LO sometimes it will go, sometimes it won't. Now the 4WD Hi and LO lights are flashing intermittently while I'm driving. At one point the Hi light burned and wouldn't turn off.
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My alarm went off for no explainable reason today. My car is parked in front of my house and all of a sudden I hear an alarm going off. Now, I've never heard my own alarm so I wasn't even aware it was mine until it kept going and I realized it might be mine. So I went to look out the window and I couldn't decipher where the sound was coming from because there's a lot of cars around here
So for the heck of it, I grabbed my fob and kept pressing buttons to see if it would go off. I was so flustered and nothing went off so I thought it wasn't mine. Then I held down the red button and it finally went off.
Does it mean someone tried to open my door? What warnings should I look for on the dash when I go in there for the first time after shutting off the alarm?
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I have a GLS 2011 and since wednesday my car alarm seems to be working one out of five time. The doors locks but no horn chime and no corner lights flashing.
Checked all the doors and the hood and everything's closed. Also checked with my backup remote and nothing.
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I have read all the answers about the alarm going off at random times, mine just started tonight and dealership is closed. Is there anything that I can do to keep it from going off and waking the neighborhood?
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