Prius (2010-12) :: Comparison Between Ford Focus And Toyota
Apr 28, 2012
I just gonna buy a new car. How this two car compared? I have test two cars, and like ford's handling, while Prius drives like a toy. Also ford seems safer than Toyota.
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2011 Honda CRZ emission test result from EPA is out. I am providing comparison graphs with other hybrids. Enjoy!
Non-Methane Organic Gases
Carbon Monoxide
Nitrogen Oxide
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So the LX and Landcruiser have shared platforms over the year but I've always wondered why Toyota / Lexus never released a stretched version of the trucks like an Escalade ESV or Yukon XL, etc? I know the trucks currently seat 8 people but the 3rd row is a little tight except for little kids. Also, if you have the 3rd row up, then the trunk space is all but gone. For example, with the Escalade ESV, with the extended version, the seats in the 3rd row are laid out just a little better than the 3rd row in the shorter truck version so it's a little more comfortable. And the trunk space in the stretched version is way more than the normal version.
Of course, the Escalade is not sold in other countries where it's seriously taken off road. I know that it's mainly a US vehicle that roams the crazy parking lots of many upscale malls whereas the Land Cruiser / LX570 is primarily the same in the US but it's also sold in many foreign countries where it really is used off-road and having a stretched version is not really the best for off-road maneuvering. Even so, I think Toyota/Lexus would sell more of these vehicles if they did develop a stretched version. Maybe call it a Landcruiser XL or LX570 XL..
Actually if Toyota made a stretched version, I'd say calling it a Land Bruiser would be more appropriate. I certainly would love an 8 seater LX 570 with the larger trunk area and possible better sitting space with the stretched version. Couple this with the Lexus quality and reliability and Lexus would give the Escalade ESV some decent competition.
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Is there any difference between the 2010 v6 and the 2011- 2016 V6's ? Reliable? Highway gas mileage? Maintenance issues to look for? Is there anything you know that would keep me from buying this vehicle?
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This chart compares what my C's computer calculated for MPG to simple arithmetic. Seeing consistent optimistic numbers from your computer like I am?
The average error is -2.7 mpg and the STD is 0.85 mpg. So the error is fairly consistent. I also have shown the gallons purchased, but there is no correlation to mpg error.
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How do I turn the "fuel consumption comparison" off? I want to see only the quantity and price off the gasoline I have consumed.
There isn't a "disable" feature, so I am guessing I set it to 0 mpg?
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I have a '10 Focus SE I got used about three months ago. I updated the Sync software to the then-current version. I connect my iPhone for both phone and music via Bluetooth.
Every now and then, with no pattern I can determine, when I get into the car and turn it on, the music system immediately plays the FM radio instead of connecting to my phone and playing the music where it left off when I last got out of the car.
I am turning Bluetooth on on the iPhone before I get in the car, and I'm turning it off after I turn off the car and exit it, so it's not a matter of BT from the phone not being available.
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I own a 2010 Ford Focus (compact sedan) and had to purchase a set of new tires. I went to a retail chain store that I've never been to before. The salesman suggests a set of 195/60R15 Trazanos. I drive home on a side street about 5 minutes away. Seems fine. The next morning I enter the expressway and there is a slight curve to right when entering, the car begins to feel like it's sliding almost like on ice (yet it's 75 degrees out). I begin to accelerate, my car begins to sway and slide. It felt like I was fishtailing all over the place. It scared me enough to pull of the expressway.
I immediately go to the place that I purchased them. They look at them and tell me that I should have had "H" rated tires put on it. He says my previous tires had a thicker side wall. So, they put a different set of "higher end" tires (195/60R15 Toyo Extensas) for the same price. I make the guy go out on the expressway with me to test it and it seems ok, but I didn't get to try it on a curve at that point. On my way home, I still feel a slight slide on curves, but not like before. It's windy today, so I will take it back out on the expressway tomorrow. I know nothing about tires, so they could be feeding me a line of b.s. Can it really take up to 500 miles for the tires to be "broken in"? My car drove perfectly fine before I had these tires put on.
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Car is approaching 100,000 miles. While driving today I noticed a rhythmic hiss coming from the dash when the AC ran. No temperature difference between AC and vent after a little while. Is there anything I can look for before I take it into the shop? I will take it in and have them put die in to find potential leak before we start with the more expensive repairs, but would like to save where I can.
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My husband and I are considering getting a small SUV. We've narrowed our choices down to the 2012 Tiguan SE 4-motion or the CR-V EX-L AWD. I'm working on a pro/con analysis between the two. I've looked through some threads here, and would like to get some updated opinions from current owners.
Why would you pick the Tiguan over the CRV or vice versa?
I'm a long-time VW driver, so I'm naturally leaning towards the Tiguan. The Honda is slightly less expensive to start, and gets slightly better gas mileage, potentially translating into a few $1000s in savings over the VW during the life of the car. We have no real experience with Hondas. My mother has an Accord and decided she hates it after about 1 year. I do think it's mainly because she liked her Subaru and only traded it in because my father hated it.
Some more background info:
This would become my husband's daily driver and his Wrangler would become our third/weekend car. We're in no rush, and may decide to just keep the status quo. My husband commutes 40 miles per day, so better gas mileage is a plus. We have a Lab who will ride in the car pretty often, but we will buy a waterproof seat cover for the backseat of whichever car we get.
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my 2000 focus se, 2.0L SPI, with 82k began to recently run rough at idle then progressed to stalling at longer lengths of idle. The condition starts once the engine warms after 2-5 minutes. I 1st tried gas treatment. I replaced the ignition coil as suggested in the other threads, but it has not improved the problem. I had the fuel pump recall-replaced 2 years ago. I would guess that a bad fuel pump would exhibit loss of power at all engine speeds? Before I proceed to replace plug wires and plugs.
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I bought a new 2008 ISF back in the day and acquired a 2009 M5 with 6,000 miles late last year.
My ISF has headers, exhaust and throttle control which absolutely changed the car from a Lexus to a contender, consider the mods with the following comparison. I enjoy my M5 a lot, it is my out of town car- drives great at 180, corners well, solid, roomy (being from Vegas I can fit 4 bodies in the trunk)..I can go on about all the positives.
However, the F is faster with the mods, better ergonomics, and has fewer repair issues. It feels like a go cart. It pulls the 5 until it hits the limiter. As there were only 500 or so produced each year.
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Since i bagged my car and i didn't bought the swaybar end links to fix it it to my air struts, when i got it installed the swaybar got removed.
Now as my swaybar is off i might upgrade, my question is, Is an h&r front swaybar much better than an OEM one, and if yes should i pick a 26 or 28 mm o e (what's the difference, pipe size?)
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In your opinion what looks better on a R. Classix or Denvers? Need to decide what i am going to run for winter.
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We have both a 2005 Golf TDI (150,000 miles) and a 2001 Passat GLX (100,000 miles). We need to reduce our number of vehicles, so we need to sell one of them. The question is, which one?
The Passat is a rare manual transmission version and is in immaculate condition. The Golf TDI is a reliable and efficient workhorse. (I no longer have the 35-mile commute that caused me to buy the Golf in the first place.) We love both vehicles and can't decide which to sell. Both vehicles are garaged.
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I have a 2008 GTI, black, DSG - I love this car, best I have ever had. It has worked flawlessly - never in the shop for anything other than routine maintenance. Anyway, my lease will be up at the end of the year and was considering either buying out the lease or getting a new 2011 model. What's new and "improved" in the 2011 model?
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Car came out of the car wash and when I turned it on it started to beep rapidly and brake light came on. I moved the car but brakes were not working. I had to get the car towed. First time I ever encountered the problem.
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I'm looking for my head light replacement for my prius 2010 IV. if this type of headlight can be used for my prius: Sylvania Silverstar Ultra H11 HEADLIGHTS SU/2 NEW
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Had an enormous crack in the windshield of our 2010 Prius and recently had it fixed. It leaked. Tech came out to fix the problem and check for water damage-we didn't see any at the time, but the fix didn't take and it's leaking again. This time, much worse. Here's what the discussion title refers to.
I'm concerned that the water damage will contribute to a problem down the road- corrosion in the electronics in the roof, damage to the carpeting(?) on the ceiling, mold etc. I would like to take the car into the dealer and have them give it a once-over, but want the glass repair shop to foot the bill. My philosophy is: I wouldn't have to get things checked out if you hadn't botched the install-twice. Their philosophy is: unless you can show us evidence of malfunction, we're not paying for someone else to look at it. I feel like they should go the extra step to put my mind at ease and make sure that any developing problem can be addressed now instead of having to wait until something goes bad.
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So it finally happened -- I got CDs stuck in the JBL factory-installed four-disc changer on my 2010 Toyota Prius. (We predicted this would happen the first time we saw it.) What I didn't expect was that the dealership says it can't be repaired and that the CD player -- and the whole navigation system -- have to be replaced. Really? That's the kind of planned obsolescence that will make me never buy another Toyota again.
I took it to a car audio specialist who told me the same thing. But there again, their goal is sell me something, so I’m skeptical. I’m thinking about going the route of giving in to an extended warranty swindle and then cancelling it once I get the cd player replaced. But that feels like overkill, and it makes me as duplicitous as I suspect they are being. If it’s indeed true, that cds stuck in the cd player means you have to replace everything? That’s just not right…
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So I recently got a 9006 8000k HID Kit off of E - bay and I'm planning on installing it in place of the stock HIDs. However , I just realized that the stock HIDs have a D4S ballast and connector which do not fit the 9006 HID kit that I just got.
So should I remove the old D4S ballast and put in the new kit, or buy D4S bulbs that fit the stock ballast ? Also, the driver side headlight is flickering and goes out at times so I don't know if the stock ballast is acting up.
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