Prius (2010-12) :: Check Engine Light Went On / Cold Air Intake
Nov 4, 2011
I installed an Injen cold air intake and 2 days later, the check engine light went on. I had it reset at the dealer and next day, again. Am I stuck with this or is there a way to keep it off, other than putting back the original air box?
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I have taken my car into service twice because of the check engine light being on. They fix it and say it has something to do with the intake. It is now on for a third time. Obviously they are not fixing the problem. BTW, I have done no modifications to my car.
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Got a check engine light, whoever scanned it said something about a secondary air intake? Upon searching, I found a post about a bad MAF.
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So last night, I put my APR stage 1 intake on my 2011 GTI. Install went smoothly, didnt even touch the MAF sensor. Drove fine that night with no cels and drove home approximately 15 miles.
Today, after driving an additional 15 miles I turned off my engine. Upone restarting, the engine starts but idles at 0 then shuts off. Tried restarting a couple times to no avail. Then took out my key, gave it a few seconds, tried again and the engine starts but with a check engine light,
Shut it down, gave it a few more seconds and restarted the engine and the check engine light was gone.
WTF is going on??? I am super worried as I only have 850 miles on it and am scared I got a lemon or something. Is this normal?
EDIT: Could i have ruined my engine in any way?
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I undertook this maintenance as a preventive measure, and to see if I could bump up the gas mileage a bit. After reassembly, when I try to start it up, the engine runs for 1-2 seconds, and stops, and I get a "Check Hybrid System" error. The engine will not restart. I'm trying to figure out where I screwed things up. Right now I might have to get it towed to a shop.
I bought the Prius used last month, and it's at 151K miles. I've driven it about 800 miles since I've owned it. It had been running perfectly fine, with no check engine lights or symptoms. The scheduled maintenance items were all caught up. I had spark plugs changed, engine coolant changed, transaxle fluid changed at the famous Luscious Garage several week ago, and they said the car was in good shape. They actually recommended NOT cleaning the EGR pipe/manifold/throttle body or replacing the PCV valve if there were no symptoms or check engine lights. They said not to worry about it until symptoms occur - probably to save money. Maybe I should have listened to them, but I liked the ideal of things running perfectly.
I used information from the "missing under light throttle" and other intake manifold cleaning threads and a couple pdfs on throttle body removal and intake manifold removal from the 2010 Toyota Prius Repair Manual that Mendel Leisk had attached to another thread. I generally followed the repair manual, except for not disconnecting stuff that didn't have to be disconnected, like the coolant hoses on the throttle body. That is to say, with the manual pdfs in front of me, I'm pretty sure I didn't forget to reconnect any connectors or hoses when reassembling.
A moderate amount of dry, sooty carbon material was in the EGR pipe. I cleaned that out. The port leading to the EGR valve assembly was also filled with that dry soot, and I cleaned that out with a pipe cleaner, used dry, since I didn't want to create a sticky clog in the valve. I stuck a vacuum cleaner to that port afterwards, in case I had pushed soot back towards the valve with the pipe cleaner.
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I have a 1998 chevy silverado z/71 4x4. I had a water leak and had the intake manifold gaskets replaced. Ever since then, the check engine light comes on and it soots up the o2 sensors and the 4 plugs on the right bank. It may run good for a month or so and then it starts all over again.
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Last Fri the check engine light came on so the first thing I did was check the gas cap. It was loose so I retightened it and went on my way expecting the lght to eventually go out. It was still on several hours and a couple of stops later so I called my dealer and explained to my service rep what was going on. He told me to give it a few days and to call him if it didn't go out by today. He said it takes a few days for the computer to reread the system. So we drove it all weekend and it finally went out this morning (Tues). With just under 145000 miles I'm wondering if I should get them to put it on the scanner anyway. It's$130 to do the scan so it's a bit of a ding in the budget. Do the hybrid batts need to be checked,indicator light or not? Here in Ca I think they have a 150000 mi warrenty?
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Started my 2010 gen 3 Prius 3 the other day and got a bunch of what I thought was engine clatter and the check engine light came on.
The next time I started it, no noise. Anyways brought it to dealer and they diagnosed it and ordered a new manifold.
The next day when the part arrived, I brought in the car. Talked to the mechanic, a great guy, and he explained what happened. Apparently, the clatter is actually the springs rattling in the clutch mechanism of the starter motor/electric motor and not the valves like I thought.
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I have a 2010 gen 111 with nav system etc, the other day a orange check engine light came on, I took it to our Toyota Dealer and they said that I had mud and gravel up in the car, near the fuel intake area, and that the carbon capture canister/switch was damaged by the dirt and I need to get it replaced. I asked if I could simply not make the repair due to the fact that the electronics system would eventually not be able to read the H Carbon readings and the car would burn more fuel.
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My check engine light went off last month and when I had it looked at my dealership they said it was due to the seal where the gas cap locks into I believe. Anyway, a week later my light went off again and now they are saying it is the charcoal cannister which I found out is very expensive. Here are my two questions. First of all, can I get this part replaced and installed at a non-dealership? My second question is since they reset my check engine light, it came back on a few days later for two days and then turned off completely. Should the light have turned off on its own? Should I be concerned that it is no longer on? It just makes me wonder if they diagnosed this issue correctly or not.
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This is the infamous error code many Accent owners might have experienced it. The code refers to "Too lean intake system". People try to replace all kinds of parts like ECM, MAF, O2 Sensor, TPS, Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, etc. according to my research. I just bought a 2001 Accent and the P2188 light came on. I wrote an email to Hyundai Corp. Asking what would be the most likely part that will cause the (P2188) check engine light to come on.
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Check engine light and P0010 code in my Gen III 2010 Prius...
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I plugged in a OBD2 reader and its show misfire on Cylinder 1.
I haven't driven the car for 4 days, and when i started the engine this morning, the engine show knocking when the regular engine kicks in (rough). i will be bringing the car in tomorrow (dealer). my car is a 2011 with 16k miles, strange for this to happen so early in age.
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Got a 2010 Prius with about 61000 miles on it. Starting yesterday the check engine light stay on all the time (As soon as I started the car). I tried open and tighten the gas cap but no luck and check engine light still stay on all the time. What could be the problem? Will any ODB scanner able to diagnose the check engine light code or need a specific one?
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Just picked up a Toyota certified 2010 Prius III....less than a week later, the check engine light comes on. Took it right back to the dealer...in which they said its the air/fuel sensor. Toyota warranty services was closed, so they need to check tomorrow if its covered by the remaining warranty or not.
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I have a 2010 with 4000. miles on it. Check engine light came on. After reading everything I went and checked my fuel cap and yes it was not on. Now the ce light is still on. What next, do I wait and worry or go to the dealer. ??
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My check engine and red triangle light came on. I checked the code and it's a battery issue. The code is P0A7F. I called the dealer and they want me to bring the car in for a check.
I'm afraid it will lead to me replacing the battery. I have about 117,000 miles on the car. They have a service bulletin open on this code but I may have exceeded the 100,000 mile limit.
If I do need to replace the battery are there any improvements I can make in this area?
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My 2010 Prius with 72k miles on it. I bought a OBDII scanner and read P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected. The check engine light comes on for few days, then go away for few weeks and then come back again. It's been doing the exact same thing (Come on for few days and then go away) in last few months. But I do not feel any different in terms of driving.
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So my 2012 plugin was parked for about 3 days, and when I turned it on, heard loud knocking and the check engine light came and stayed on.
When switching the car on or off, I'll hear two taps/ticks that were not there before. Loud knocking is not there now.
What can the issue be? It was very cold and snowing.
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I was driving my 2010 Prius on the Highway (less than 2 miles) and the engine check light came on.... shortly after the ! (triangle with exclamation light came on and then started flashing). I exited the highway and was going back home. On the way home, I noticed a decrease in acceleration and then a message 'Hybrid...'
I was able to coast into an apartment complex and then got a ride home.
After about a couple of hours, I went back to the Apartment Complex. I reviewed the manual and one of the options was to check the gas cap. I filled the tank up last weekend and haven't driven it since today.
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Gen3 Prius. Once it turned 100k miles I took it in for an inverter coolant change per the maintenance schedule. The dealer charged $109 for this and the car had absolutely no issues prior. Got the coolant changed on 7/23 and then drove it short distances in town for two weeks with no issues. Once I drove it on weekend longer road trip got a check engine light P0A93 "inverter A cooling system performance". Shortly there after started getting hybrid overheat alerts and pulled over to let it cool.
I checked the inverter coolant reservoir and it was still above full. After letting things cool, I turned it back on and listened to the water pump. Seemed to be running fine, heard it clearly with my ear up to a long screw driver, touching the pump. Noticed that the hose leading to the pump was vibrating but the return hose out of the inverted was not. Also no turbulence in the reservoir. My guess is that they didn't bleed air out of the system.
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